Fifty Plus (50+) - Bike Trainers ... Which One?

Okay, I'm wrapping up with getting a road bike put together, but I have the heebie jeebies about learning how to ride it with clipless pedals, because I'm still getting over an ankle fracture in May. I want to play it safe by learning how to ride the roadie during the winter ... and how to use clipless pedals during the winter ... in my basement.

I have never used bike trainers that allow you to hook your road bike's rear wheel to it. What are the gang's recommendations for good trainers?

Here's some trainers from PerformanceBike, but I can't see the forest for the trees:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/item_list.cfm?estore_ID=1407&cm_re=C1-_-flash-_-UpgradeTrain

The only trainer I want is named Helga, she comes from Sweden, and she's a student at UCSD.

http://www.rtl.nl/components/soaps/gtst/achterdeschermen/bios/home/images/Lexmond-Lieke-van_close234x.jpg

No DG ... I said hook the rear wheel to the trainer ... not your rear molars!

No DG ... I said hook the rear wheel to the trainer ... not your rear molars!

:D:D:D

I like DG's trainer but the BOSS would not let me bring one of those home.
Soooo I bought a Minoura VFS, It works fine.

I did not go with rollers because I had never used them before.

I doubt a trainer that clamps the rear wheels will teach you much about climpless pedals though and that a set of rollers is the place to learn.

Good luck

The 1UP (http://www.1upusa.com/bike_trainer.html) and the Kurt Kinetic (http://www.kurtkinetic.com/index.php) trainers are generally mentioned as the two best indoor trainers if you do not want a computer linked video type that start at about 2 to 3X the price of the 1Up and Kurt Kinetic. These two are cited for having the best build quality, fit a wide range of wheel diameters (Kurt Kinetic at least, unsure of 1Up), provide a realistic acceleration and coast down, increase resistance with speed similarly to a bike, quiet, and Kinetic's sealed, magnetic coupled fluid unit does not have seals that leak (search BikeForums on these two trainers more details).

I learned clipless pedals on a trainer. Practice clipping in in less than X complete pedals, less than X tries, and unclipping and hitting the brakes the instant an out of sight 1 minute timer rings or a commercial begins or ends on the TV. This made it automatic for me when I took the bike off the trainer and on the road.

My Kurt Kinetic is the third trainer I've had and should be the last I need.

This has a rep as a good buy
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=6000123&subcategory=60001087&brand=&sku=18824&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Trainers%20and%20Rollers

I like my CycleOps Magneto. Under $200 and free shipping.

https://shop.sunrisecyclery.com/item/14403/

Kurt Kinetic fliud trainer.

I have a trainer that's incredibly loud, which bugs my wife. It would bug my wife even more if my loud trainer were Helga.

+1 for the 1UP, realistic feel relative to wind & fluid trainers I've used before. Also GREAT customer service! Had a problem after about 3 months with my resistance unit, called & they immediately shipped out a new one to swap with a label to pay for return shipping. No problems since, has been flawless. also quiet in comparison to both types mentioned above.

My LBS sells two Kinetic trainers that sound familiar to each other, and similar to the ones the gang is talking about, but are 40 dollars different in price. What's up with that?
* "Kurt Kinetic Road Machine" ... $330. No description on website.
* "Kinetic Road Machine Fluid Trainer" ... $370. Resistance from 5-3000 watts (I'll take 5, Alex). Six and one/quarter pound freewheel. Sealed fluid chamber with magnetically-coupled driveshaft.

Could it be these two are the same model, but maybe made in a different year (with different year-name)? If not, then any comments between the two?

Ask your LBS. Might be that the cheaper one is the older model.
Functionally I bet they are going to be the same. If it is the older model it'll be
gray.

Kurt also has a speedo that does watts for $50. Very nice training tool for a
very nice price.

CycleOps Fluid 2:

1. quiet
2. folds neatly
3. fairly lightweight
4. quiet

My LBS sells two Kinetic trainers that sound familiar to each other, and similar to the ones the gang is talking about, but are 40 dollars different in price. What's up with that?
* "Kurt Kinetic Road Machine" ... $330. No description on website.
* "Kinetic Road Machine Fluid Trainer" ... $370. Resistance from 5-3000 watts (I'll take 5, Alex). Six and one/quarter pound freewheel. Sealed fluid chamber with magnetically-coupled driveshaft.

Could it be these two are the same model, but maybe made in a different year (with different year-name)? If not, then any comments between the two?



Hi, Motorad!

I have a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine, and if I recall the Curt website told how much power it can handle. I don't think it was as high as 3000 watts, but I'm sure it was a lot higher than any normal human will go. 3000 watt capability soundsl like an extremely heavy duty one , perhaps for track sprinters or pursuit racers, something that required very high levels of explosive power. I'm real happy with the Road Machine. I also have a Cyclops Fluid 2 that is pretty good, but not as smooth or quiet as the Road Machine.

Road Fan

I just picked up a Cycleops #9320 Winter Training Kit, which includes a Fluid 2 trainer, mat, 2 climbing blocks (did you know that they can stack for additional height?), and a bike "thong". The list price is $399.99 but I got it from my LBS for $360. I figured that I was going to get the other stuff anyway, so why not just get the kit that included it all at once. I have not used any other trainers but I had looked at them all and ended up deciding between the Kurt Kinetic and Cycleops. I chose the Cycleops principally because it appeared to be easier to install/remove the bike from the trainer. I have only tried it out so far, but it is acceptably quiet and since I don't have any others to compare it with, I am sure that I will be happy with it.

The 1UpUSA site has the best prices on Kurt Kinetic.
http://www.1upusa.com/
This will be the 4th winter that I have used my Kurt Kinetic Road Machine trainer.......NO problems and very realistic performance. Does not coast like road riding but a heavier (18.5 lb) flywheel is available to improve coasting realism.......I, personally, don't need to practice/train for coasting.
Please consider the Continental bright yellow (Gold) trainer tire for improved "traction" with the trainer's roller...... Be prepared that trainers are BORING.......watching paint dry is more entertaining/tolerable.

I have never seen one of these things in action. Is it easy to attach the bike and remove it or do you realistically need a space where you can attach a bike and just leave it set up?

I have a Kurt Kinetic road machine trainer and it only takes a couple of minutes to put my bike on it. Much of that time is changing the skewer to the one that came with the trainer so I don't scratch my alloy skewer. It is pretty easy to do.

Regards,
Ted

Depending on the model, usually takes a few moments to attach...nothing to discourage you (or give an excuse-- 8-) from using it. If rear wheel only trainer, usually folds up easily for storage...no need to leave it up. Consider as useful/necessary accessories: fan, dvd player, tv, iPod.

As everyone will point out, this is very two-dimensional riding, but it beats standing gloomily at the window watching the snow, rain, darkness, etc. Distractions make things bearable, cycling specific workout tapes like Spinervals make it "fun" (quotation marks will be understood after you meet Spinervals' Coach Troy.)

Consider as useful/necessary accessories: fan, dvd player, tv, iPod.


Good tips everyone. One good tip that Giro provided: Keep the critters away while the back wheel is spinning at 20 MPH. I had a 6-week old stray cat adopt us last week, and a spinning rear wheel would pretty much slice n' dice a one-pound animal.

Now if I can just train my German Shepherd to simulate chasing me, I could try out my Halt! spray while training.

Another Kurt Kinetic Road Machine owner here. A very happy owner, I might add.
I don't even change the skewer, if I ding it up, I ding it up. It only takes a minute -literally- to set up and offers a pretty darned good workout, I'm dripping wet at the end of an hour on it.

I just open up the garage door and face out into the street so I can watch the rain and the wind can blow in my face. I can sort of make-believe I'm actually riding somewhere :lol:

And iPod really helps, too. I just get into the music and forget I'm peddling like mad to nowhere.

I have a Kurt Kinetic road machine trainer and it only takes a couple of minutes to put my bike on it. Much of that time is changing the skewer to the one that came with the trainer so I don't scratch my alloy skewer. It is pretty easy to do.

Regards,
Ted

I like my Kurt! I just keep teh Kurt skewer on the bike, so I can take it on and off quickly.

Road Fan

I'm a Kurt Kinetic owner, too. Works great, but it's hard for me to do an hour on it, just so BORING!! Guess I need to break out and get an Ipod.

I recently got a Kurt Road Machine. I have it set up in the basement in front of a 46" flat screen TV. I watch stuff without commercial breaks on NPR and don't get as bored as might otherwise be the case.

Wyoming weather requires lots of time on the trainer. I'm thinking of getting one of those virtual reality trainers. Either a Taxc or a Computrainer. I have ridden 4000 miles (yes that is sick) on my older Tacx trainer. Gives me speed, distance, watts etc and has both a flywheel and an electronically controlled resistance unit. Nice but I want to do something other than watch reruns of races (that I already know the results of). Unfortunately that means I may also have to buy an additional laptop to display all that data WHILE I ride. :D

I hate trainers so I'm just not going to spend a lot of cash to simulate going somewhere. I use a Minoura Mag 850 (the shift cable isn't worth as much as you might think since you have to stop before shifting)

I set the trainer for enough force so that I am wobbly on my legs after about 40 min and ride to maintain a cadence of 80/90. If it seems easy I shift up a gear.

Not a very sophisticated ride but I' mostly interested in burning some calories, retaining some leg strength for next year and getting off the thing as soon as possible.

Did I mention that I hate trainers.

When I'm on a trainer hot sweaty and tired I might not even like Helga...

Have any of you tried the Travel Trac I-Force inertial trainer? It is supposed to be extremely quiet and it allows you to keep your feet on the pedals even when "coasting". I live in the upstairs of an old house and I'm trying to find the most considerate, quiet trainer I can. I've had my eye on this I-Force but wonder if I wouldn't be better off with say the Cycle Ops Magneto which automatically adjusts tension based on your power input? So many options and the reviews are all over the board! I've been reading for hours and still can't decide!:eek:

-- Joolie

I have an older Performance Peak Load with adjustable "resistance". The range of adjustable resistance isn't that noticable though the machine (fork and rear mount) is very stable, seems smooth, and relatively quiet. Have to stop to change the resistance so I just leave it on high and I find normal gearing allows plenty of resistance. After 5 years, I wish the damn thing would spring a leak so I could justify a Kurt......has anybody used the Kurt power meter?

Years ago I had a "true wind trainer" that got its resistance from little fan blades. Don't remember a flywheel, didn't feel very road like.......but made enough whooshing noise you could hear it outside the garage. The only good thing is that if your cadence fell off you could sense it by the sound. Not so good old days.

Have you considered this option (http://tinyurl.com/34bzs5)?

I thought I'd stir up the pot with a question, since it relates to the OP: Any concerns in riding 500 miles with a high dollar bike ... on a trainer ... in about 6 to 8 weeks of winter? Especially on fart-light bikes made of ti and carbon?

A completely stationary trainer like the Kurt Road Machine ... where the frame is not allowed to tilt laterally ... will have the rider's weight unrealistically shifting to the left & right of the upright bike frame. The lateral weight shifting, on a bike trainer, is probably not what the bike's frame was made for. So, the question is, would extended use of a trainer possibly compromise high dollar bikes?

Now if I can just train my German Shepherd to simulate chasing me, I could try out my Halt! spray while training.

A treadmill perhaps?

I'll sell you my high-tech, home-built one cheap:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t162/dminorwa/IMG_0491.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t162/dminorwa/IMG_0492.jpg

I ride rollers only. Tried trainers but didn't like the bike being locked into a ridge position, it's too much like the Schwinn stationary bike I had. With the headwind unit on the Kreitler's, it's a great workout.

Another concern with holding the bike ridge is the unnatural forces you may put on the frame, especially with standing.

knotty

I thought I'd stir up the pot with a question, since it relates to the OP: Any concerns in riding 500 miles with a high dollar bike ... on a trainer ... in about 6 to 8 weeks of winter? Especially on fart-light bikes made of ti and carbon?

A completely stationary trainer like the Kurt Road Machine ... where the frame is not allowed to tilt laterally ... will have the rider's weight unrealistically shifting to the left & right of the upright bike frame. The lateral weight shifting, on a bike trainer, is probably not what the bike's frame was made for. So, the question is, would extended use of a trainer possibly compromise high dollar bikes?

It probably won't hurt them, but why put your good bikes through such indignity? I would worry more about all the sweat more than the lateral forces. Get an old steel beater bike to put on the trainer. I set mine up with a higher handlebar position than what I normally ride on the road. The normal position always seems too forward on the torture rack.

Thanks BD. After this winter, I'll take your advice, and will remember your tip about keeping the bike's nose up a bit while on the rack.

It's a judgement call this winter ... to get a confession out of my Serotta ... by placing it on the rack. I wanted to learn how to use clipless pedals for the first time, how to use a compact 50/34 crankset for the first time, how to get the feel of a true road bike for the first time ... without falling down or twisting a healing ankle.

I took a winter maintenance course last week, and one thing that was mentioned was possible damage of the headset from your sweat, if you're really cranking on a trainer. It was recommended to keep a towel at least over your headset, but also over your top tube. I want to remember seeing online, what looks like a hammock, that you attach between seatpost and stem. The purpose of the hammock was to catch your sweat while using a trainer, so you don't dribble sweat all over your bike. Anybody use one of these sweat hammocks?

A treadmill perhaps?
The darndest thing I've seen, was an adult cat that was trained to walk on a treadmill. The video was several minutes long, and the cat appeared to be clipping along at about 3 MPH for at least several minutes.

... Another concern with holding the bike ridge is the unnatural forces you may put on the frame, especially with standing.

knotty
I put the front wheel support block on a "turntable" using a turntable assembly (ball bearings in circular track) available in hardware stores. Align the axis of rotation of the downtube with the center of the turntable. This allows the front wheel to freely turn left and right while on the trainer.

If you want lateral (side to side) movement, Kurt Kinetic has a model with curved rockers for the base that allow the bike to rock side-to-side. I read one review quite some time ago that stated the rocking was not very realistic (compared to rollers, perhaps?).

If you are concerned about stressing the bike, this Kurt Kinetic model plus a turntable below the front wheel should minimize stresses that the bike is not designed to take. With an existing trainer, it would not be that difficult a woodworking project to make some rockers or a rocking platform to allow the same side-to-side movement. If you make a rocking plantform or rockers, trainers such as the Kurt Kinetic can be adjusted for different size wheels. This should allow the retrofitted rocking trainer to hold the rear wheel at about the same height off the floor simply by setting the trainer for a smaller wheel, thus letting the rear wheel remain close to the floor. Another winter project for me to try.

Please let us know how your winter project turns out, Giro. Sounds like a great idea.

After reading this thread - or some other one recently - I bought a Kurt Kinetic and set it up in the basement in front of an HD flat screen TV. I was surprised that I can ride it for 30 min to 1 hour without getting bored. I just watch engaging public TV programs on the PVR. I used my old bike with a cadence meter so I can practice steadily getting it at 80 RPMs (it happened to have the meter on the back wheel). I am hoping this will keep the cycling muscles in shape over the dark, cold months ahead.