Can a Clyde truly be comfortable?

[Bob_in_Midland]

Other than a recumbent or comfort bike, the question is whether a large rider can truly be comfortable on a hybrid or road bike.

I've ridden mountain bikes (Fuji, Cannondale, and Gary Fisher) and road bikes (Trek and Specialized). Each time I've tried, I've never been able to set up the bike in such a way that would get rid of the wrist and hand pain that I experience after about 30 minutes of riding. I've tried using adjustable stems, stem risers, bar ends, handlebars with more rise and sweep, and various cycling gloves. While I have been able to mitigate the problem somewhat, I've never been able to get rid of it. One thing I have not tried is drop bars, only because I have figured that if I have the problem on flat bars, then I'll certainly have it on drop bars.

Am I wrong??

Just to be clear, the problem I have is pain in the lower center of my palm, to the outer edge of my palm. The wrist pain is primarily stiffness after a period of riding.

I'm currently riding an '06 Specialized Expedition with an adjustable stem, swept back bars, and some ergonomic grips. It allows me to ride without the wrist pain, but riding so upright has obvious disadvantages. This riding position is fine when I'm out with the family, but is a bit disappointing when I'm out by myself and I feel like getting some speed going for a period of time.

Any suggestions would be helpful!

Bob

[Mr. Beanz]

So many people are sooo wrong about drop bars. I know clydes with flat bars, always complaining about hand discomfort. Flat bars have ONE position. Drop bars have several. While riding drop bars, most of the time is spent upright riding on the hoods. Very comfy. I don't know why riders think that because they have drop bars, they have to ride down in the drops. One of the only times riders ride in the drops is while sprinting or some hard cranking.

I spend most of my time on the hoods. Climbing, my hands are near the stem, sometimes in the center of the top section. Sometimes I ride in the drops to rest my trunk, stretch my back or relax the legs while assuming another position.

Drop bars, the right fit, one can ride for long periods of time in comfort. I have straigth bars on my mountain bike. One of the best things I've done is add bar ends. I ride the bar ends far more than the flat section of the bars. I really have a hard time understanding how a rider can deal withonly one position on the bike.

If you insist on flat bars, at least add bar ends. I'd bet you'll soon find you spend most of your time on the ends. Then when you go with drops, you'll find riding bar ends is like riding the hoods, except that you'll have a few more postions to choose from!:D

[Air]

Yes.

I do a lot of computer work so I've been very conscious of any sort of wrist pressure. Check out my sig for fitting threads (you'll see they're mostly wrists) and what I went through here (http://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=262759). I don't have wrist problems on my roadbike and I've been in the saddle for 10 hours at a pop.

Two things I noticed in your posts:

Flat Bars. To prove this to you stand up, flap your arms around, drop them to your side. Look at your hands. The natural position is for your palms to be against your body. Now keep that position and swing your arms forward. Palms are still facing in (same position they'd be in the drops). Now pretend you're using flat bars and grip an invisible bar. You'll have to rotate your hands. So off the bat you're putting pressure on parts of your wrists that are not meant to have it.

You say you've ridden road bikes with flat bars - were these bikes you owned and had professionally fitted with flat bars installed or just hopped on a friend's bike? The biggest reason wrist pain occurs means that your body weight is landing on your wrists which is keeping you up. So two things - strengthen your core muscles to help keep pressure from your wrists and have the stem high enough that you can keep yourself up for long periods of time.

Also, I started off with a mtb trying to make comfortable for long road trips. The geometry never really let me do it (yeah, Tom was right ;) ). Sometimes a square peg is square no matter how many times you try to shove it in the round hole.

The treking bars I posted above allowed me to keep that natural wrist position and raise the bars high enough for me to keep myself up without leaning on my wrists. They're designed for many hand positions (something else to keep in mind) to not put stress on one part.

[besserheimerpha]

Try looking at how your hands are actually hitting the bars. I occasionally get the same pain you are describing when I bench press - from the center of the heel of my hands outwards. Usually I can rack the weight, make some microscopic change to my bar/hand/wrist alignment, and the pain goes away. I usually bench without lifting gloves or wrist wraps by the way. Sorry I don't have a specific solution, but your problem sounded kinda familiar so I throught I'd through this out there.

[fmbike]

Hi Bob.

Try these three things and you should see much improvement in your comfort level.

1) Have you and your bike professionally fitted.
2) Work your core. A lot! (Abs, Roman Chair Leg Lifts, Oblique twists, Lower-back ext)
3) Pedal in a gear that allows you to keep weight off your butt and hands.

I too am a rather large clyde at 6' 3" - 270. And my comfort level has gone way up after 3 months of Spin/Core classes and having my bike fit "the right way" not my way. Also #3 "Riding Light" will keep you undercarriage happ(y) (ier) on the long rides and bumpy roads.

Good luck,
Frank

[pdq 5oh]

Air hit it. Strengthening your core muscles will take a lot of weight off your hands. Move your hands around on the bars. At times I ride with open hands; the heels of my hands resting on the bars with fingers draped over the brake levers (flat bars). Bar ends are great with flat bars, also.

[bautieri]

Did you try a set of bar ends for your flat bar bikes? They would allow you keep your hands aligned as Air suggested, plus they would force you to sit up a bit more transferring some of your weight off your wrists.

besserheimmerpha, when you get that pain in your wrists from benching look at your hands while your under the bar. I would bet that your wrists are cocked back when they should be straight. It's hard to get the hang of benching with straight wrists, it feels like the bar might slip out of your hands but it wont. Wearing gloves will make the slipping sensation worse, if the pain still persists check out the wrists wraps by Inzer (http://www.inzernet.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=WRAPS_IRON_WRISTZ).

bau

[bautieri]

pdg 5oh

Drats, I've been foiled again. Must remember to refresh comments prior to posting :)

bau

[jaxgtr]

Yes, drop bars can be comfortable. It's all about bike sizing and making sure it properly fits.

[gcottay]

+1 on the drops. After a few miles on a "comfort" bike my hands are done with butt not far behind.

And if all else fails recumbents can be great fun. My trike, for example, not only eliminates hand and butt issues but gives me a comfortable lawn chair wherever I go.

[UtRacerDad]

So many people are sooo wrong about drop bars. I know clydes with flat bars, always complaining about hand discomfort. Flat bars have ONE position. Drop bars have several. While riding drop bars, most of the time is spent upright riding on the hoods. Very comfy. I don't know why riders think that because they have drop bars, they have to ride down in the drops. One of the only times riders ride in the drops is while sprinting or some hard cranking.

I spend most of my time on the hoods. Climbing, my hands are near the stem, sometimes in the center of the top section. Sometimes I ride in the drops to rest my trunk, stretch my back or relax the legs while assuming another position.

Drop bars, the right fit, one can ride for long periods of time in comfort. I have straigth bars on my mountain bike. One of the best things I've done is add bar ends. I ride the bar ends far more than the flat section of the bars. I really have a hard time understanding how a rider can deal withonly one position on the bike.

If you insist on flat bars, at least add bar ends. I'd bet you'll soon find you spend most of your time on the ends. Then when you go with drops, you'll find riding bar ends is like riding the hoods, except that you'll have a few more postions to choose from!:D

+1

All my flat bar bikes have bar ends, the one I just set up has bar ends that I cut down so they are shorties I don't use them to climb rather to allow my hands and arms to change positions.

[bfromcolo]

I ride road, mountain and a flat bar commuter. I think my road bike is most comfortable for long rides, but I have had to get an adjustable stem for every road bike I have had to get the top of the bar level with seat hight. Also I have put B17 saddles on my road bike and commuter, my MTB rides aren't long enough to worry about the seat. And I have put horns on my commuter to give me an extra hand position. So I guess my keys to comfort are:

properly fit bike
adjustable stem
decent saddle
multiple hand postions

And I think you can achieve those on just about any kind of bike and handle bar.

[BCIpam]

I am very comfortable on both my road bike and my mountain bikes. I routinely do century rides on the roadie and my biggest complaint are my feet but everything else is OK.

You can get comfortable. It's a matter of proper fit and conditioning. No one feels great right off the bat. You have to condition your arms, hands, shoulders, neck, back, legs and feet to be comfortable. Work on your positioning, adjust often, go get a fitting. Just keep riding. Eventually you will get comfortable. Riding is sortof like learning to play golf. It takes time, practice and patience and eventually everything else will fall into place.

[DieselDan]

I'd mention how seat angle affects weight distribution, but you people slammed me for that last time.

[BCIpam]

Actually my understanding if the angle of the seat is pointed downward that forces more weight upon the arms/hand causing discomfort. Again why a good fitting/positioning is so important!

[besserheimerpha]

besserheimmerpha, when you get that pain in your wrists from benching look at your hands while your under the bar. I would bet that your wrists are cocked back when they should be straight. It's hard to get the hang of benching with straight wrists, it feels like the bar might slip out of your hands but it wont. Wearing gloves will make the slipping sensation worse, if the pain still persists check out the wrists wraps by Inzer (http://www.inzernet.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=WRAPS_IRON_WRISTZ).

bau

I don't have any wrist issues when I bench, I'm talking about an acute pain that sometimes occurs right in the center of the heal of my hand. It happens only very occasionally, but particularly with close-grip bench, JM presses, stuff like that where my hands are just barely shoulder width apart, my hands end up not wrapped totally perpendicular to the bar - the bar crosses my palm at something other than 90° - and that can cause some palm pain with heavier weights for me. You're right though, benching with straight wrists is MUCH better once you get the feel for it.

I've got a set of wrist wraps (Harbinger, bought at Scheels), but I try to limit their usage to the heaviest sets so I can build some stability and strength in my wrists.

Well, I just got done with my bench max-effort workout (Westside Method, baby!), and I need to take my yummy protien drink :rolleyes:

[Bob_in_Midland]

Yes, as mentioned in my original post, I've tried bar ends. The bike I referred to was a Specialized Sirrus with flat bars, which I bought from a Specialized dealer. We worked for an hour on the bike, trying different stems, etc.. Finally, we went with the adjustable stem. Maybe it still wasn't fitted properly?

I do agree with what some of you have mentioned about strengthening my core. I do need a lot of work in this area.

And yes, I have been very conscious about seat angle with my current diamond frame. I do feel the difference with slight differences in seat angle, and seat position fore and aft. I did not experiment that much with the Sirrus, other than to put a different saddle on it.

I also understand what some of you have referred to in terms of arm angle. I really noticed it when I rode my wife's Giant Suede when my bike was in the shop for a few days. With the handlebars on this bike set right, I had no pain whatsoever. They were at a comfortable angle. I also noticed it when I switched from the stock handlebars that came on my current bike, over to a set which swept back more. The angle, along with some ergonomic grips, made a huge difference.

Someone else on another board had mentioned the use of trekking bars that they picked up from Nashbar. I've looked at them and have thought seriously about trying them, just to get different hand positions, and to get a better position for climbing and riding into the wind.

One other thing, which led to my posting this thread in the first place. I was thinking back to when I had a 10-speed back in high school. It had drop bars. I used to ride that thing all over the place, and I don't remember any problems with these pains. Now, that was 30 years ago when I was 100 pounds lighter, and I wrestled. Yes, most of my riding was on the hoods.

The manager of the local Specialized dealer is supposedly a certified fit specialist. Maybe it's time I go pay her a visit.

Thanks for all of your input thus far. I'll let you know what I come up with.

[Dr.Deltron]

Other than a recumbent or ...Any suggestions would be helpful!
Bob

How about a recumbent TRIKE???

Get a Greenspeed and you'll be smilin' like the guy in the Enzyte commercials!

These are my 2. One for the family & one for just ME! :D

[Air]

Those things feel like you're cheating! Of course that's the jealousy talking ;)

[Tom Stormcrowe]

I'd mention how seat angle affects weight distribution, but you people slammed me for that last time.

Huh? When did this happen? I've been a proponent of proper saddle angle, height and width, all dimensions must be right! :eek:

[Bob_in_Midland]

How about a recumbent TRIKE???

A) Too expensive (for MY budget).

B) Too difficult to transport when taking all the family bikes somewhere.

C) One of the reasons I moved away from recumbents was because I prefer the ability to stand on the pedals to "float" over bumps. I got tired of my backside being the primary shock absorber.

Oh Snap! As I look out the window, IT'S SNOWING!!! :eek: :mad:

[mkadam68]

I'd mention how seat angle affects weight distribution, but you people slammed me for that last time.

+1 to Tom's post. This shouldn't have happened. It's proper fitting technique.

[Wavy]

originally posted by Bob in Midland
One of the reasons I moved away from recumbents was because I prefer the ability to stand on the pedals to "float" over bumps. I got tired of my backside being the primary shock absorber.

I've never ridden one, but have heard that 'bents with steering controls under the seat allow rider to push butt off saddle when approaching bumps.

I agree drop bars are more comfortable, provided you have the proper size... and your bike has been fitted to you by a pro fit tech.

[Pinyon]

I agree with what most said above about standard road bars. I prefer standard road bike bars in a wider width than normal, and have my stem jacked up and out further (up, but stretched out works best for me). Play with the stem height, angle, and forward position to find what works for you. You may also have to change your position, depending on your weight and where it is destributed on your body. When my stomach is...biggish (every winter...ahem), I have to make the stem taller; and when I lose a few, I have to drop the bar down and closer to the body.

Have fun out there!

[mgmoore7]

I have not read all the posts so forgive me if I am repeating. I put aero bars on my hybrid primarily for the comfort. I too was having hand pain and numbness. I even added bar ends before the aero bars and that helped a little but not much.

Anyway, now that I have the aero bars, no more pain. It is not that you need to be in the aero position all the time, just enough to releive the pressure and provide another position.

[Tom Stormcrowe]

I have not read all the posts so forgive me if I am repeating. I put aero bars on my hybrid primarily for the comfort. I too was having hand pain and numbness. I even added bar ends before the aero bars and that helped a little but not much.

Anyway, now that I have the aero bars, no more pain. It is not that you need to be in the aero position all the time, just enough to releive the pressure and provide another position.

It also helps in a headwind ;)

[mgmoore7]

"It also helps in a headwind"

You bet it does and if you like a little more speed.... I pickup .5 -1 mph almost instantly when I drop into my aero bars without any more effort.

[DieselDan]

You treating the symptoms, not the cause. Tilt the nose of the saddle up just ever so little. That will transfer your weight to your lower back and rear end. You can wear gloves and use gel tape/grips all you want, but you still in a perpetual push up position instead of sitting on your seat.

Flame on...http://www.clicksmilies.com/s1106/waffen/violent-smiley-093.gif

[BikEthan]

I'd mention how seat angle affects weight distribution, but you people slammed me for that last time.

+1 on Tom's post. I'm new here but I can say from personal experience (and boy does it not get much more personal than a bike seat) that seat angle can pretty drastically affect weight distribution. I usually put mine a little nose up to help keep weight off my hands and keep me from sliding right off the saddle!

[BigBlueToe]

I'd echo what that one poster said about drop handlebars being more comfortable on long rides because they offer more positions. I'd also recommend raising them until the top is close to level with your saddle. I have mine maybe half an inch lower, but that's all. Try padding under the tape. I use gel pads wrapped with two layers of tape - the foam tape that comes with the gel, and a second layer of cloth tape.

Having said all that, the first two or three days of a tour are always painful on my hands, wrists, and especially my forearms. Then it goes away. My first long tour was the west coast of the US. The first day was short - maybe 26 miles. My arms hurt but not bad. The second day was too long - about 85 miles. They hurt bad! The third day was about 75 miles. I was in agony! I resolved that the fourth day would be a rest day. I was planning on riding about 10 miles to a different campground and then take the rest of the day off. However, those 10 miles turned out to be pain free, and I continued on with my originally planned day - maybe 35-40 miles. For the rest of the trip - total of 4 weeks - I had no pain in my arms.

Now I always make my first three days easy - no more than 30 miles if I can help it - and a rest day if I need it - so that my arms can get acclimated. It works for me.

[ban guzzi]

I'm 6'2' and losing my way thru 290. With that said, my 77 Schwinn is a comfy 3 speed. Sorta gull wing bars. Nice for a casual roll or commute. My MTB had straight bars and bar ends. Hated it! Found some used drop bars and put those on. VERY comfy and with a bit more adjustment, perfect for me. I have an elbow that was never set after breaking in a stupid MTB accident 10 years ago so one arm doesn't bend as much as the other. Drops helped alot for this. I have really low drops on my old Panasonic with the old (early 80's) style hoods. I'm getting used to that set up and I'm really enjoying it. I'm picking this bike for commuting and fun more than the other two partially becaus eof the drops and the fact I feel so comfortable in them...

I am a drop bar convert...

[Doug5150]

Other than a recumbent or comfort bike, the question is whether a large rider can truly be comfortable on a hybrid or road bike. ...Any suggestions would be helpful!
If you want riding comfort, go straight to the recumbent choice.

I had regular bikes for ~15+ years before I got into recumbents ~4 years ago; I don't own any upright bikes anymore--and I don't own any padded bicycling shorts or padded gloves anymore either. How's that for a comfort claim?

A lot of people who insist that "uprights can be perfectly comfortable" have simply never tried anything better, and one really needs to do extended riding to understand the advantage. A couple times up and down the street, or around the block on any recumbent won't show it--because that's not far enough for you to suffer on an upright bike. It's on a 2 or 3+ hour ride that you realize the HUGE difference.

Recumbents do have disadvantages: dealers are rarer, prices are higher and transportation is often more difficult--but the riding is simply wonderful.
~

[charles vail]

One of the biggest reasons for hand numbness is having too much weight on your hands and having your hands in the wrong position. If your hands are in the handshake position like when resting on the hoods of a drop bar or on bar ends you put less pressure on the nerve in the palm of your hand. Raising the bar to level with or above the seat will also do wonders. If your top tube or stem is too long (stretched out too much) or too short (cramped up) you can have too much hand pressure also. Saddle angle should be flat to the ground more or less. If these things don't help you may have other problems with your body/spine etc.
I have a recumbent also and its great but not on rough roads.

[ChunkyB]

One important factor, especially for clydes, is core strength. When your stomach and back aren't strong enough, it puts a lot more weight on the hands. Try to concentrate on holding some of your weight with your core while riding, and I'm sure it will help (a little at least). That's what I did because I was in the same boat when I got my road bike, and it really helped.

[Bob_in_Midland]

I put aero bars on my hybrid primarily for the comfort. I too was having hand pain and numbness. I even added bar ends before the aero bars and that helped a little but not much.

Anyway, now that I have the aero bars, no more pain. It is not that you need to be in the aero position all the time, just enough to releive the pressure and provide another position.

I've thought of doing this as well, but really wasn't sure that it was something I wanted to do. A few weeks ago, when I was riding the MUT, I was riding right into a headwind. I kept thinking about how nice it would be to get into a set of aero bars to help cut the wind.

Are they hard to get used to? I would think that there would be a balance issue in getting used to them.

[mgmoore7]

I've thought of doing this as well, but really wasn't sure that it was something I wanted to do. A few weeks ago, when I was riding the MUT, I was riding right into a headwind. I kept thinking about how nice it would be to get into a set of aero bars to help cut the wind.

Are they hard to get used to? I would think that there would be a balance issue in getting used to them.

I will 1st note, that you need to check the size of your handle bars vs the size of the clamps on the aero bars. I had to shim mine quite a bit. They work fine though.

At first, it was a bit different but I think that would occur even on a road bike. More of your weight is shifted to the front and the bike becomes twitchy so that takes some getting used to.

After several rides, I have found that I was putting more and more time on the aero bars. One a 26 mile ride that I did a few weeks ago (this is my longest ride yet), I probably spent about 20 of those miles in the aero position. Often, I feel stronger in aero position and on this day it was very windy so it was of great benefit. I found found that I can go longer, stay stronger and be more comfortable when using the aero bars.

[dijos]

you need to get your fit squared away, and get the weight off of your hands. you should be barely grabbing the bars, and instead holding your weight up. More riding will build core strength.