Bicycle Mechanics - Shimano 600 cranks

I'm trying to remove a set of cranks from a square taper BB. I removed the dust caps and grabbed my trusty 15mm socket and began to remove the bolt. It came off easy enought but the bolt was actually a nut and I now have an outy instead of an inny. Upon closer inspection of the other side, it really looks like this was supposed to happen. My square taper BB remover is not looking too useful at this point. What do I have on my hands and how do I get it off? Thanks in advance.


PS- a quick search of previous posts and Sheldon's page proved fruitless

I first ran into this problem when I tried to remove a 105 crankset.
Too bad OEM companies opt to save a few bucks by using these cheaper to make BBs.

Hopefully your extractor is like mine. I have a Sugino extractor, the end of the center bolt has a pressed on rotating bushing. It interferes with the 'outie'.
I backed the bushing off by unscrewing the bolt. Once removed I was able to mount the extractor and cranked the the arms off.
Afterwards I reinstalled the bushing with a hammer.

Hi

Well the problem is that the BB axle u have in there probably is not the stock one that came with the original set of cranks. Some crank extractors allow yo to take the INNY part as wgn mentions. If you cant to that just grab a piece of wood and a good hammer and hammer that crank out.

Good luck :)

if you have the park crank extractor (or similar) you shouldn't have any problems. just to make sure you are in the clear i would take the tool apart by unthreading the inside part from the outside. take the outer part of the tool that threads into the crank arm threads and snug it down a little bit once you have threaded it into the crank. now that the outer part of the tool is secured in the crank go ahead and thread the inner part in just as you would with a normal BB. the operation should be the same.
What you have is a square taper bb but its a different style. back when the 600 cranks were out it was pretty common to find bikes with this type of bb. these days you typically see 8 mm allen bolts thread into the bb axle rather than what you have on your bike.

for reference:
http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=103

I had a similar problem a couple weeks ago. A 1/4" hex nut barely fit in the recess, but protected the end of the spindle. You might even have to lightly file the hex "points" to get it to fit.

What you have is a square taper bb but its a different style. back when the 600 cranks were out it was pretty common to find bikes with this type of bb.

Better quality square taper cup and cone bottom brackets were always "bolted", that is the spindle had a threaded hole in each end and the crank arms were fastened with bolts. Cheaper bottom brackets were "nutted" like the one in question. The spindle has threaded stubs sticking out and the crank is fastened with nuts.

Most crank extractors will handle either type but you have to back out the center press bolt further for nutted bb use.

Most crank extractors will handle either type but you have to back out the center press bolt further for nutted bb use.

Far out. Exactly what I was wanting to know. Thanks for all of the replies! ;)

Better quality square taper cup and cone bottom brackets were always "bolted", that is the spindle had a threaded hole in each end and the crank arms were fastened with bolts. Cheaper bottom brackets were "nutted" like the one in question. The spindle has threaded stubs sticking out and the crank is fastened with nuts.

Most crank extractors will handle either type but you have to back out the center press bolt further for nutted bb use.

Campagnolo Super Record titanium spinles are an exception. They were nutted. They were only produced for a short time because they they broke, but they were anything but cheap.

I haven't actually tried using the extractor in stages yet (I'm still at work). The bike is a genuine Frankenstein. Old-style 600 cranks and FD, Suntour (cyclone?) RD, 8 speed 500EX Freewheel(!), suntour shifters, and (of course) it has Diacompe brakes and levers, all on a Nishiki Olympic frame. I found it outside of a scrap yard and decided to give it some TLC. First thing to go... the f%#king BB.

Campagnolo Super Record titanium spinles are an exception. They were nutted. They were only produced for a short time because they they broke, but they were anything but cheap.
That's the only exception I've ever heard of as all the other nutted bb's were bottom of the barrel. Apparently, Campy makes their mistakes too.

I've just dealt with a few 600 cranks, but they all had self-extracting bolts.

I've just dealt with a few 600 cranks, but they all had self-extracting bolts.
The Ultegra Octalink cranks did. Did the older square taper Ultegra cranks have them too?

Yes old 600 and 105 where like that, well if u have the matching bb axle. In this case the guy has a weird axle like the ones used in old bmx bikes or super cheap road bikes.


The Ultegra Octalink cranks did. Did the older square taper Ultegra cranks have them too?

I have a very old sqare taper 600 crank and the original bottom bracket for it. The spindle actually says on it that's for self extractors. It looks like a perfectly ordinary spindle otherwise.

I had an old 1980 600 EX crankset with the 6mm hex self-extractors.
Don't which version Shimano phased them out.

I've found several brands of bikes (Trek, Specialized, Centurion) will use this cheaper BB instead of the the one that comes with a particular group. For Shimano and Suntour.

I had an old 1980 600 EX crankset with the 6mm hex self-extractors.
Don't which version Shimano phased them out.

Suguino made an aftermarket set of self extractors (Autex) to retrofit to Shimano and Sun Tour cranks. They consisted of replacement dust caps, 6 mm hex key bolts and a thrust washer to go between the bolt head and cap. I fit them to my S&S coupler equipped Co-Motion travel bike so I could remove the cranks for packing if needed. The cranks and bottom bracket (105 8-speed triple with a UN52 bb) came with ordinary mounting bolts.