Fifty Plus (50+) - Help needed with build

I'm building up a bike on a Giant OCR1 frame and have everything installed except for the shifter/derailleur cables. I bought a set of Shimano cables which suposedly included all the hardware, ferules, crimps, etc. The downtube cable stops that came with the set are designed to be mounted into downtube shifter bosses which my frame, unfortunately, does not have. The Giant frame has slotted cable stops that are smooth, not threaded and I can't figure out what kind of hardware to order. I did order what looked correct but the cable adjusters that came in were threaded and would not work. I'm wondering if I actually need an adjuster here anyway, since it looks just like the stops on the brake cables. I have attached a photo of the frame. Any advice would be appreciated....Ned.

From my own experience, no adjuster is used in this stop. I fact, if an adjuster is used in the right hand stop (rear derailleur cable), you will begin to suffer an interference problem between a stiff (very near the end) housing and the front brake adjuster/cable. Just stick the housing end into the stop with a short crimp on or even nothing at all.

You can live with this because there will be an adjuster on the read derailleur that you can use as necessary. If you need an adjuster for the front derailleur (probably for a triple, probably not for a double)_ then you can install one of the push in adjusters at the output of the STI lever, or you can use an inline adjuster.

From my own experience, no adjuster is used in this stop. I fact, if an adjuster is used in the right hand stop (rear derailleur cable), you will begin to suffer an interference problem between a stiff (very near the end) housing and the front brake adjuster/cable. Just stick the housing end into the stop with a short crimp on or even nothing at all.

You can live with this because there will be an adjuster on the read derailleur that you can use as necessary. If you need an adjuster for the front derailleur (probably for a triple, probably not for a double)_ then you can install one of the push in adjusters at the output of the STI lever, or you can use an inline adjuster.

+1 on the above. Once the cables are fully stretched and shifiting dialed in, how much do you use the adjusters anyway?

The bike that I ride most of the time, a Lemond Reno, has cable stop adjusters at the top of the down tube but I've never used them while riding. I was concerned that they might serve some purpose that I'm not aware of but my common sense says that they are superfluous!!

Thanks, Ned

You should be able to use one of these, depending upon your preference.

Here is a link to the items. http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html

As far as serving a purpose, you could probably forego the one for the rear DR, since it will have a barrel adjuster on the cable guide/clamp. But unless you put one on the front derailleur cable there is generally no way to adjust the pull, other than the cable clamp itself, which does not lend itself to fine tuning. The front DR can be much more persnickety to adjust, IMHO.

I would put one on each DR cable because unless you put one on both sides of the downtube your bike won't be balanced and you might tump over.

I would put one on each DR cable because unless you put one on both sides of the downtube your bike won't be balanced and you might tump over.

Tump Over?!! I see what you mean. I'd have to lean way over to compensate. Wait a minute! I could just put rocks in my right pocket.

Rocks in the pocket is never a good idea for a quality bike build. Given the current state of materials, one could never adjust out the inevitable stretch. This could lead to a misindexing of the rear pocket and a tendency to drop the change.

One could however redish the front and rear wheels in slightly opposit directions, causing the line of forward progress of the bike to be a bit skewed from the center line of the frame. Doing this carefully and with much study would bring the offending single adjuster over onto the center of gravity.

Its the least you could do to avoid a serious tump.

Rocks in the pocket is never a good idea for a quality bike build.

Yes. It's much classier to carry a short section of gas pipe in your pocket or, if your rides are shorter than 2 hours in duration, you can simply OD on Viagra and skip the pipe.

In fact adding/redistributing weight to achieve balance is a rather crude answer to this problem of balance. A mechanical solution is superior. Simply install one training wheel, attached at your rear wheel's locknut, as a sort of outrigger, on the side on which you are in danger of "tumping". Training wheel kits are available at any children's toy store or quality LBS.

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

http://www.wordwebonline.com/en/TUMPOVER

You guys crack me up. :):):):):)

If you are as lucky as your team you'll never need to adjust the derailleur anyway. :mad:

;)

If you are as lucky as your team you'll never need to adjust the derailleur anyway. :mad:

;)

I meant this post to be serious when I first wrote it.

Luck had nothing to do with it. It was divine intervention. I was in Neyland Stadium yesterday and can't talk today after all the yelling in the final minutes. The guy who won the game was the one who erected the goal posts! If he'd put them up six inches to the left, we would be playing in the toilet bowl. I hope you Dawgs softened up the Kitty Cats for us.

Luck had nothing to do with it.

This weekend my Red Raiders tumped over the Sooners' hopes for a BCS championship.

We were there. I took a bike with me and had a great ride yesterday, including the brick streets east of the campus where I used to ride my old Raleigh (circa 1971). Talk about nostalgic !!