Sorry for another thread on pedals.

I have read all the threads on here about people modding shimano spd-sl pedals and discussion of how the older shimano metal cleat pedals are better for track then the new plastic cleats.

So, it occurred to me would this pedal be good for track? Shimano PD-M324

http://www.shimano.com.au/media/images/cycling/products/actionsports/PD/PD-M324_popup_v1_m56577569830550919.jpg

Its a mtb pedal, but has a similar shape to the MKS pedals. It has metal spd cleats, toe clip and strap compatible. You would need to get road compatible SPD shoes, but other then that can anyone see any issues??

Thanks

230g heavier than PD-7700, release tension may not go as high. That one doesn't appear to use the same cleat as the PD-7700. The plastform looks a lot smaller.

That's an SPD pedal. You can't get a zero-float cleat for it, and the mechanism isn't as secure as on an SPD-R. You'll find your foot wiggles around more (perhaps too much) and that you unclip inadvertently in ways you wouldn't do with a more dedicated pedal system. Plus, you have to use SPD-compatible shoes which tend not to be the stiffest shoes out there. And as pointed out above, those are heavy pedals. On a wooden track, you may end up getting a track manager who won't let you ride them at all (traditionally road quill-design pedals were outlawed because the outside loop on the cage would dig up the track badly if you fell). Lastly, bearing quality isn't the same in those. On the track, you actually appreciate good bearings more, and the best are in Dura Ace SPD-R and Dura Ace SPD-SL pedals. By far.

That's an SPD pedal. You can't get a zero-float cleat for it, and the mechanism isn't as secure as on an SPD-R. You'll find your foot wiggles around more (perhaps too much) and that you unclip inadvertently in ways you wouldn't do with a more dedicated pedal system. Plus, you have to use SPD-compatible shoes which tend not to be the stiffest shoes out there. And as pointed out above, those are heavy pedals. On a wooden track, you may end up getting a track manager who won't let you ride them at all (traditionally road quill-design pedals were outlawed because the outside loop on the cage would dig up the track badly if you fell). Lastly, bearing quality isn't the same in those. On the track, you actually appreciate good bearings more, and the best are in Dura Ace SPD-R and Dura Ace SPD-SL pedals. By far.

I think the OP wanted to use them with toe clips and straps which would alleviate the unclipping and float problems (to some degree anyway). Overall I don't think they would be a good idea however.

I think the OP wanted to use them with toe clips and straps which would alleviate the unclipping and float problems (to some degree anyway). Overall I don't think they would be a good idea however.

Actually, these don't work well even with clips and straps. The cleat is very small in size, easy to release (compared even to SPD-SL's) and easy to leverage out, even with a toe strap in place. There would be little point in using clips and straps with these pedals if one was hoping for a secure attachment. And the clips and straps only marginally reduce float -- you don't get anything like the zero-float you get with SM-SH90 cleats or even with Speedplay Zero's adjusted to zero float. The OP didn't ask about that, but it's common on the track (and with some cleats such as Look, the floating cleats actually break more easily and can be unsafe in sprints and other power events).

No.... not for the track.

Well there's one solution: remove the cages, grind off all excess material on the pedals and cages, crank up the release tension(it goes quite high) and the only problem you're left with is the float. You need to get the binding claws with zero float( the top Y shaped plate with claw on it). I have seen them, but don't know if they still make them. All in all this is real pointless unless you like fiddling, which I do! The SPD-R are crazy secure with zero-float. It's really quite amazing how hard it is to release with the tension cranked up.

SAm

why not just use whatever you use on the road? are you having problems with what you are using now? if you are not of haven't ridden on the track yet, keep it simple and use your road shoes and pedals. unless you are a dedicated match sprinter and/or kilo rider pulling out of your pedals is not really much of an issue. it's not a much of a problem as everyone makes it out to be

I've seen people pull out of their pedals doing sprint drills a couple of times, once causing a crash. When I started racing, I realized that 90% of the people at my local track were using Looks, for good reason.

why not just use whatever you use on the road? are you having problems with what you are using now? if you are not of haven't ridden on the track yet, keep it simple and use your road shoes and pedals. unless you are a dedicated match sprinter and/or kilo rider pulling out of your pedals is not really much of an issue. it's not a much of a problem as everyone makes it out to be

+1. If you're not pulling out on the road you're probably not going to pull out on the track either.

Hell no, I can't even ride with SPD's on my mountain bike without pulling out. You don't know how bad those SPD's suck until you're grinding up a hill so steep that your rear wheel is spinning because of no traction, and your front can't stay on the ground and you pull out of your ****ty pedal because you got a cross breeze.