that giant is awesome. how much was the wheel cover form wbuilders?

Thanks! I think it was like $90, including the cost of them trimming it for me. I just gave them the rim depth, and it fits like a glove! :)

Mine came in today as well. 50 mm tubular Campy. Look very nice, although I have the distinct suspicion just from "feel of handling them" that they are nowhere near the quality and durability of the pair of Nimble Fly I am using now. Don't ask me why I say that, but the Nimbles felt in my hands like they could be ridden by a 300 Lb guy while these feels like I need to loose 20 Lb to feel safe on them. We'll see. You can't be the price no matter what!!!

Weight without skewers:
Front: 638gr
Rear: 861gr
Total: 1499gr (not bad really)

Skewers: 112gr

Got brake pads but no holders for them. I assume they go into any Campy compatible pad holder, but I would use the same swiss stop pads I currently use anyway.

Finally I have my 50mm tubulars in my hands.Mine are the Shimano version.I ordered two of these sets.

Here are my initial impressions:

- I don't have a scale around here at the moment but these things feel pretty light, especially the front one!

- Bearing smoothness on the front wheels is superb, for the rear they're pretty good but not as nice as the fronts.

-Spoke tension appears uniform.

- One of my front wheels came dead true with only the faintest hint of a hop (similar to what you get in aluminum wheels as the imbalance of the valve hole goes through the top of the revolution). Very nice.

-The other front wheel had a hair of side to side movement but absolutely no hop. First wheel I've had like that. Spinning it in my hands felt as if it were standing still. Pretty nice.

-One of the rears was noticeably louder when coasting than the other.The louder one seemed to coast better but it was actually out of true...not by much but enough to be immediately noticeable and warrant at least a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to loosen a drive side spoke. Can't wait for the darn truing tools to show up!

-Yes, the decals are not removable BUT they actually look a lot nicer than I thought they would.

- No brake pad holders included.

- The included carbon specific pads (4 of them) look a LOT like the Shimano ones. I haven't seen the Shimano carbon specific ones but these bear very similar markings to my regular Shimano pads.

-Packaging was the weak link here. Not the best. Wheels were side by side on a carboard box with a piece of cardboard separating them. No padding at all bottom or top. Only cushioning I could see were plastic axle covers on the outer side of each wheel. It would have been nice to receive them in a box like the ones where Neuvation, for instance, ships, which kind of leave a space between the top and bottom sides of the box to protect the wheels.Miraculously, other than the one rear wheel being out of true, I could see no damage to the wheels.

I'm planning on gluing tires later this week so I can use them in our TT championships on Sunday. I'll reserve final judgement until I have ridden them a bit. But for now, I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised by the wheels....especially at the price we got them.

If these hold up well , I might just go for a set of the carbon clinchers. :)

Anyone have any experience with Veloflex Servizio Corse and Veloflex Carbon? I know the reputaion of Veloflex, just wondering about handling and durability between the two for my Vuelta wheels.

I too agree about the packaging. One of my wheels has a three inch scuff on the top of the rim near the spokes which I attibute to the box that was caved in at the bottom. Looks just cosmetic. I will have to inspect more closely tonight.

Also, I plan on swapping out those heavy skewers with titanium Spin Stix.

I got my 50mm carbon clinchers yesterday. I put them on the bike last night and snapped this photo a few minutes ago. I'm happy with the look but my hub sounds strange. I haven't really ridden the wheels yet but just a spin around the parking lot felt good. Something just doesn't sound right... I'll have to poke around a bit when I get a chance later in the week.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2337/2416871126_a62cf2cd2f.jpg

Yeah, my hub sounds really funky when coasting. It makes a much lower frequency (and louder) sound, though perhaps some of it is due to the acoustic chamber created by my wheel cover!

Mine sounds similar to my Rolf Prima Elan Aeros. The pawlings have a loud, hollow sound to them, but I am used to it...

I just ordered the Veloflex Servizio Corsa sewups, btw...If the rear wears too quickly I'll replace it with a Veloflex Carbon next time.

any idea what the hubs are yet? or what spokes these wheels have?

any idea what the hubs are yet? or what spokes these wheels have?

JoyTech/Novatech, the spokes are Pillar

any idea what the hubs are yet? or what spokes these wheels have?

I believe it has been mentioned before that the hubs are made by Joytech. Looking at them up close I have very little reason to think otherwise.They are the same as the ones used in the other versions of Gigantex wheels I've seen marketed ( I believe the ones that Chucksbikes.com sells have the same rims and hubs and a friend of mine has a set of Tokens with the same hubs) I'll check to see if I see any markings on the spokes to indicate manufacturing source and report back later tonight...all I can say is that they are bladed stainless.

JoyTech/Novatech, the spokes are Pillar


Any ideas on spoke length, and a source for replacements?

Anybody found a better and lighter hub? I wish I could find a nice used set of DT Swiss 240s somewhere...

Any idea yet on the spoke tool?

DPN

looking at the P marking on the head of the spokes, I would say that Pillar is the correct manufacturer.

Also, the brake pads that come with the campy wheels are campy brake pad holder compatible.

I got my 50mm carbon clinchers yesterday. I put them on the bike last night and snapped this photo a few minutes ago. I'm happy with the look but my hub sounds strange. I haven't really ridden the wheels yet but just a spin around the parking lot felt good. Something just doesn't sound right... I'll have to poke around a bit when I get a chance later in the week.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2337/2416871126_a62cf2cd2f.jpg

Very nice...

DPN

So my wheels came today. They are super sexy, and reasonably light. These being my first tubular purchase, I was a bit apprehensive, but the gluing went well (I think), and I was even able to install a disc cover on the rear wheel! The only problem is that I think the valve extenders I bought (problem solvers 50mm) don't work well with my floor pump (Wrench Force), as the floor pump pops off whenever I get up around 50-60 psi! Perhaps I just need better valve extenders. Also, I haven't mounted the brake pads (which came without holders) yet.

Anyway, here are some pics:

http://www.martinmccrory.com/public/giant_bike/new_wheels/01.jpg
http://www.martinmccrory.com/public/giant_bike/new_wheels/02.jpg
http://www.martinmccrory.com/public/giant_bike/new_wheels/03.jpg


Nice! Don't you think we're gonna get at least an extra 3 mph outta these babies? They look fast just sitting still!:)

I was a bit apprehensive about gluing as well. Even though I had pre-stretched the tires, they were still pretty tight...

DPN

Nice! Don't you think we're gonna get at least an extra 3 mph outta these babies?

No.

So my wheels came today. They are super sexy, and reasonably light. These being my first tubular purchase, I was a bit apprehensive, but the gluing went well (I think), and I was even able to install a disc cover on the rear wheel! The only problem is that I think the valve extenders I bought (problem solvers 50mm) don't work well with my floor pump (Wrench Force), as the floor pump pops off whenever I get up around 50-60 psi! Perhaps I just need better valve extenders. Also, I haven't mounted the brake pads (which came without holders) yet.

Anyway, here are some pics:



The Tubulars do not need brake pad holders as the braking surface is near the edge of the rim. On the clinchers it is lower hence the possible need for the holders which lower the pads over the normal holders.

Any ideas on spoke length, and a source for replacements?

Anybody found a better and lighter hub? I wish I could find a nice used set of DT Swiss 240s somewhere...

Any idea yet on the spoke tool?

DPN

Search Weight Weenies for Gigantex rims, someone there has mentioned the ERD dimension. Don't forget that the spokes are a little longer than normal because the nipple is inverted, they are actually special nipples for internal use with no slot and rounded head. FSA makes the black one, but it just is a bit short, Gigantex makes the orange one. Nimble also sells one (www.nimble.net (http://www.nimble.net)).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/bhmmrtn/CIMG2858.jpg

Here's my TCR Team with the new wheels. I am violating several OCP tenets here and I know it but I was too lazy to take the bag and light off, shift the big ring, etc. just for this one shot. :)

http://www.secondhandsix.com/temp/bikes/Giant_XRPs.JPG

No.


Ah, c' mon, Pcad...let me at least get a placebo effect increase...

DPN

The Tubulars do not need brake pad holders as the braking surface is near the edge of the rim. On the clinchers it is lower hence the possible need for the holders which lower the pads over the normal holders.

I'm not sure I follow you. Obviously I need *something* to hold the brake pads in place, since all that came with the wheels was some cork pads, with no way to attach the pads to the calipers!

Nice! Don't you think we're gonna get at least an extra 3 mph outta these babies? They look fast just sitting still!:)

I was a bit apprehensive about gluing as well. Even though I had pre-stretched the tires, they were still pretty tight...

DPN

Thanks! I went on a short test ride in full aero get-up today, and though it may be due to the Pcad Placebo Effect, I did "feel" faster.

I also noticed a weird clicking sound coming from the front wheel (hub?) with every revolution of the wheels. And, the front wheel is slightly out of true, causing a bit of wobbling when braking. Since I have already glued the tires, fixing this may well wait until I flat the front tire...

Ah, c' mon, Pcad...let me at least get a placebo effect increase...

DPN

I actually think there is a very real speed increase with such wheels, but more like 1mph or less, and other advantages in certain racing/competitive riding situations. I don't know how heavy your new wheels are, but my Zipp 404 tubulars are 1300 gram wheels. That's a solid 250+ grams lighter than my light clinchers, or more than 1/2 pound, and you really do feel it: it makes the repeated accelerations of a race less fatiguing. Climbing with the lighter wheels is a revelation: I did a 35 mile ride today that had about 10 miles of climbing, and those longer hills (they're 1.75 miles long, some steep grades) really didn't seem so ball busting today. Part of that is my improved conditioning, but those 404s made the climbing easier (I typically train on the same hills with heavier clinchers). Hell, you could feel it (no placebo there) every friggin time you started honking up the steeper grades for the better part of 2 miles on those climbs.

3 mph? No. Are wheels like those faster? As long as I'm riding competitively in any way, I'll be doing it on wheels similar to the Zipp 404. 50+mm deep dish carbons (404s are 58mm) just make it easier to have your nose in the wind.

Thanks! I went on a short test ride in full aero get-up today, and though it may be due to the Pcad Placebo Effect, I did "feel" faster.

I also noticed a weird clicking sound coming from the front wheel (hub?) with every revolution of the wheels. And, the front wheel is slightly out of true, causing a bit of wobbling when braking. Since I have already glued the tires, fixing this may well wait until I flat the front tire...

Try riding it without the valve extender. It might just be it hitting against the side of the carbon rim with every revolution.

And, the front wheel is slightly out of true, causing a bit of wobbling when braking. Since I have already glued the tires, fixing this may well wait until I flat the front tire...

Yeah, that's why I'll wait until I can true the one rear wheel that wasn't true out of the box before gluing tires on it. Thankfully I ordered two sets.

I am no expert, so take this for what it's worth. But in my research on tubulars I ran into some tips. Please add and correct. I will not take offense as my N=0 when it comes to tubular wheels.
- Before gluing put the tires on and ride carefully for a few miles then check and true?
- Some have suggested using the white teflon plumbing tape with the valve extenders to prevent leaks?
- Also put a lap of electrical tape around the valve extender to prevent the knock against the rim?
- Anyone have experience with glue tape? It has the advantage in a triathlon racing situation of being able to replace a tubular with enough stickem to ride it in?
- How experience using Vittoria Pit Stop with tubulars? Fix a flat in less than a minute, "permanantly"?

I love the wheel cover. I plan to use a Powertap hub.

I'm not sure I follow you. Obviously I need *something* to hold the brake pads in place, since all that came with the wheels was some cork pads, with no way to attach the pads to the calipers!

Use the holders that came with your brakes It would take me too long to explain it so just download this document and look at the section titled "Replacement of the cartridge shoe"

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/8DD0A-001_BR-6600/8DD0A-001_BR-6600-EN_v1_m56577569830615949.pdf

Use the holders that came with your brakes It would take me too long to explain it so just download this document and look at the section titled "Replacement of the cartridge shoe"

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/8DD0A-001_BR-6600/8DD0A-001_BR-6600-EN_v1_m56577569830615949.pdf

Yeah, that's pretty much what I did, except that I bought a second set of brake pad holders (because the pads that came with the carbon wheels did not come with any holders). Thanks!

I am no expert, so take this for what it's worth. But in my research on tubulars I ran into some tips. Please add and correct. I will not take offense as my N=0 when it comes to tubular wheels.
- Before gluing put the tires on and ride carefully for a few miles then check and true?
Incorrect, do not ride them without gluing. Put them on and pump them up to the maximum pressure, set aside for at least 24 hours. This will stretch the tire making subsequent mounting easier.

- Some have suggested using the white teflon plumbing tape with the valve extenders to prevent leaks?
This is a good tip but usually not necessary

- Also put a lap of electrical tape around the valve extender to prevent the knock against the rim?
Another good tip but usually not necessary as these rims do not have an overly large valve stem hole.

- Anyone have experience with glue tape? It has the advantage in a triathlon racing situation of being able to replace a tubular with enough stickem to ride it in?
I have used both, tape is faster/easier/cleaner. Glue may hold the tire better. A preglued spare will get you home in case of an emergency, I just wouldn't do any mountain descents with hairpin turns on the way home until the tire could be properly glued.

- How experience using Vittoria Pit Stop with tubulars? Fix a flat in less than a minute, "permanantly"?
PitStop is messy, and will only "permanently" fix very small holes. It is easier to pretreat with Tufo sealant or Stan's before riding. Remove valve core, shoot an ounce or two into the tubular, replace valve core, inflate tire, go ride. Same proviso as PitStop, sealant will only fill small holes.

If anyone is interested, I ust got my Vuelta XRP Tubular wheelset together and weighed it (no glue yet)
Wheelset with Conti Spririnter Gatorskins 22mm, 12-27 cassette, skewers, vittoria valve extenders, @120psi:

Rear - 1498g
front - 984g
(postage scale)

I got mine today as well. I put the tires on but I didn't pump them up as I was at a friend's house and couldn't find a pump in my quick search.

In regards to the noise on every revolution, I noticed, just spining the front wheel a "tinking" type sound. The cause of the sound is a core of CF that wasn't removed. I started trying to get it out but didn't want to spend too much time attempting it, especially after I saw it and it looks like a big one. It looks about the size as the valve hole or spoke hole in the outer rim.

Other than the "plug" they look good. I was trying not do red on the bike these are going on but that, obviously, won't work now.

One more thing, it not only came with the Campy pads, as reported, but also with a Campy lock ring. I was happy about that.

New tubulars on with my cheap-o disc cover. Huge improvement over the stock wheels in terms of looks at least. Going for my first ride when the glue dries. Sorry for the crappy pic, took it on my phone during my lunch break and didnt have time to make it nice.

http://youannoyme.org/pics/bike/wheel.jpg

Boy, some nice bikes being posted. No wonder Mike didn't want the decals to come off! Definately looks nice!

Here's my TCR Team with the new wheels. I am violating several OCP tenets here and I know it but I was too lazy to take the bag and light off, shift the big ring, etc. just for this one shot. :)

http://www.secondhandsix.com/temp/bikes/Giant_XRPs.JPG


That's a great looking ONCE frame. What year is that?

Search Weight Weenies for Gigantex rims, someone there has mentioned the ERD dimension. Don't forget that the spokes are a little longer than normal because the nipple is inverted, they are actually special nipples for internal use with no slot and rounded head. FSA makes the black one, but it just is a bit short, Gigantex makes the orange one. Nimble also sells one (www.nimble.net (http://www.nimble.net)).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/bhmmrtn/CIMG2858.jpg

I found the post on Weight Weenies...but I couldn't figure out a true ERD because there didn't seem to be a concensus.

I went to the Gigantex web site http://www.gigantex.com.tw/Products.htm and I think these wheels are the WH-005, which shows a Sapim CS spoke. I guess that Pillar Spoke and Sapim are very similar...

Does anyone know of a cutaway view showing a deep carbon wheel with the inverted nipple...Does the tool just slip over the top of the nipple (normally the bottom) and go all the way to the bottom (normally the top of the nipple)? Is there a washer or shim between the rim and the nipple? If there's a rounded head and no slot how do you tighten it? I'm missing something...

Anyway, I would like to have the proper length front and rear spokes, some nipples, and a tool on hand, so if anyone comes up with what we need please post it!

Thanks,

DPN

I could have sworn that the ERD is somewhere on the wheel, the box, or the plastic/cardboard sheet that came attached to the wheels.

I found the post on Weight Weenies...but I couldn't figure out a true ERD because there didn't seem to be a concensus.

I went to the Gigantex web site http://www.gigantex.com.tw/Products.htm and I think these wheels are the WH-005, which shows a Sapim CS spoke. I guess that Pillar Spoke and Sapim are very similar...

Does anyone know of a cutaway view showing a deep carbon wheel with the inverted nipple...Does the tool just slip over the top of the nipple (normally the bottom) and go all the way to the bottom (normally the top of the nipple)? Is there a washer or shim between the rim and the nipple? If there's a rounded head and no slot how do you tighten it? I'm missing something...

Anyway, I would like to have the proper length front and rear spokes, some nipples, and a tool on hand, so if anyone comes up with what we need please post it!

Thanks,

DPN

The nipple may look like this:
http://www.lewracing.com/images/hexnipple.jpg
or this:
http://www.lewracing.com/images/hexnipple4.jpg
The first one is the currently most readily available type of hidden nipple.

Park makes a new tool, SW-15:
http://www.parktool.com/images/products/productimages/det_SW-15-002bug_20071114_52950.jpg

Sorry I can't help you with the ERD.

The nipple may look like this:


I got excited when you said this.....


But it quickly faded into disappointment as I saw the pics :(

Search Weight Weenies for Gigantex rims, someone there has mentioned the ERD dimension. Don't forget that the spokes are a little longer than normal because the nipple is inverted, they are actually special nipples for internal use with no slot and rounded head. FSA makes the black one, but it just is a bit short, Gigantex makes the orange one. Nimble also sells one (www.nimble.net (http://www.nimble.net)).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v647/bhmmrtn/CIMG2858.jpg

Thanks for this info, WheresWaldo. I went looking for the Gigantex tool but couldn't find it. BUT, looking at the FSA web site I found that they have the same tool as the Gigantex. I ordered mine from Jenson and received it today. It fits perfectly.

I received some of the tubular wheels last night. Probably the worst packing job I've ever seen... holes on both sides of the box from the hubs tearing through. one very small piece of cardboard between the wheels. Wheels weren't damaged though, but the front is terribly out of true. Still, for $400... pretty good.

Got my Sprinter Duraskins tonight and put them on one of the set of wheels I got for stretching. After hearing all the horror stories here about mounting Conti Sprinters to tires I was expecting to end the day with blistered hands and covered in sweat. Well, the tires went on in less than a minute with very minimal effort. I was surprised. Of course I had to work them a little bit to get the last bit on but it was not difficult at all. I still remember some Tufos S3s that I mounted to my track wheels about 5 years ago. Now those were a real pain to get on.

As a side note, one thing I'm not too sure I like about the Sprinters is that they now have a black base tape which makes it a bit harder to see the spots where glue has been absorbed properly. It also makes it a little bit more difficult to align the tire since you don't have the contrasting base tape to use as a gauge. It's now black base tape against a background of black sidewall and black rim. ARGHHHH!!!!

...

As a side note, one thing I'm not too sure I like about the Sprinters is that they now have a black base tape which makes it a bit harder to see the spots where glue has been absorbed properly. It also makes it a little bit more difficult to align the tire since you don't have the contrasting base tape to use as a gauge. It's now black base tape against a background of black sidewall and black rim. ARGHHHH!!!!

Yeah, I have the same issue with the black base tape, why everything on the tire has to be glack I just don't understand. I haven't used Sprinters in a long time, let us know how they work for you. Think about getting a set of Veloflex Carbons for your next set of tires. It is one of the best riding tires you will ever find, especially if you are using these wheels as "event" wheels. It will be a real treat.

Yeah, I have the same issue with the black base tape, why everything on the tire has to be glack I just don't understand. I haven't used Sprinters in a long time, let us know how they work for you. Think about getting a set of Veloflex Carbons for your next set of tires. It is one of the best riding tires you will ever find, especially if you are using these wheels as "event" wheels. It will be a real treat.

The Sprinters thing was more of a compromise because of a logistics problem. I was planning on getting either the VF Carbons. the Conti Comps w Black Chili and was even looking at Schwalbe and Vredestein. The only one I could source locally in short notice was the Sprinter so I went with it. I still have the second set of tubulars so I'll try the Carbons on those. Good thing is the Sprinters came in at around 270g each, so for instance, the front wheel, sans QR, weighed 902 g.

Still trying to decide whether to go with Tufo tape, Conti glue or the glue+tape method I've heard floating around. Again, a matter of logistics since I'm home on the weekends and away at a work project during the week. A teammate of mine who owns a triathlon shop just brought me two of the Tufo Extreme tapes and I'm debating whether to use them or not. He also brought me some Vittoria valve extenders (the ones you take the valve core out to install) and they worked great!

...
Still trying to decide whether to go with Tufo tape, Conti glue or the glue+tape method I've heard floating around. Again, a matter of logistics since I'm home on the weekends and away at a work project during the week. A teammate of mine who owns a triathlon shop just brought me two of the Tufo Extreme tapes and I'm debating whether to use them or not. He also brought me some Vittoria valve extenders (the ones you take the valve core out to install) and they worked great!

I just bought some of the extreme tape, not sure I am going to use it. What I have heard was that the tape is a ***** to get off the rim. I usually use Mastik but I have a can of Conti glue now. Zipp says you can use the tape on their rims, so I would think it would be ok with these too. The Vittoria valve extenders are leaps better than the Zipp extenders. Tufo also have extenders that come in different sizes, they are just like the Vittoria's.

I just bought some of the extreme tape, not sure I am going to use it. What I have heard was that the tape is a ***** to get off the rim. I usually use Mastik but I have a can of Conti glue now. Zipp says you can use the tape on their rims, so I would think it would be ok with these too. The Vittoria valve extenders are leaps better than the Zipp extenders. Tufo also have extenders that come in different sizes, they are just like the Vittoria's.

- Yeah. I've actually read/heard just about every account, comment, story and legend on the tape there is. Some people have a REALLY hard time getting it off, some people find it really easy. ARGGHHH!! I guess that, as with everything in life, the answer is: It depends!! :( I just talked to another shop owner buddy of mine and he recommended the tape hands down. He sponsors a local team who mostly ride Cervelos and Reynolds wheels and told me every single one of his guys is using the tape with no problems so far. Decisions, decisions...

I scored several tubes of Conti glue from the Performance store in Charlotte last week but didn't want to bring them on the plane. TSA kind of gets uneasy when one brings flammable stuff in the carry-on bags, you know. :D They get upset when I accidentally bring my 3.4 oz tube of toothpaste (instead of a less-than -3oz tube) in my backpack, I don't even want to see the fit they'll have (not to mention the mess I'll be in!) if I bring a couple of tubes of glue.

- Noticed the Tufo and Vittoria similarity. My buddy told me the same thing but that he had the Vittoria's in stock so I took those. Pretty nice.

OK, mounted VF Carbons w/ Mastik and installed a new cassette with no problems. The wheels are true and the hubs are smooth. The skewers are a little heavy, but work well.

I decided to try the wheels today without changing my brake pads. I'll mount the Zipp pads for carbon wheels later. Conditions were dry and the ride was great. I road some flats, rollers and a steep climb. The wheels worked well in all circumstances. I'm happy with the purchase :D

one training ride - http://trail.motionbased.com/trail/activity/5430480
one race - http://trail.motionbased.com/trail/activity/5443760 (I finished 9th)

later, I felt it is well worth the money. I had the 50mm clincher version. My mini-review:

first, the bad:
- My bike becomes .6 pounds heavier
- Valve stem hits against the rim and rattles like mad (some electrical tape fixes it)
- I had to use the included brake pads, holders and readjust all the brakes. A pain in the butt if I intend to switch back and forth with my lighter wheels.
- It is a pain in the butt to install the tires (pro2). The rims seem to be a bit taller than my other ones. I felt like I was going to either break a piece of the rim wall or the tire lever to get the damn tires in. It will be a major pain if I have to fix a flat while on the road. Do you guys have any tricks on dealing with this? I felt like I will break a chuck of the carbon from the rims sooner or later.
- The wheels are a bit out of true but acceptable. The rear one is more out of true than the front.
- The weight of the rims are not evenly distributed across.
- Not stiff laterally at all.

Now, the good:
- Very stiff vertically
- Relatively true
- It seems to spin up quickly. Once it spins up, it just keeps going and going.
- It definitely helps in the race. I felt I can hold the same pace with less effort comparing to my much lighter 30mm clincher (This alone is worth the money in my opinion. Besides, this is one of the least expensive wheelset I own.)
- Finally, the looks :) It matches my naked Calfee pretty damn well.

Does anyone consider the ride of the Vuelta tubulars harsh? I'm running them with Conti Sprinter duraskins (at about 100psi on a Lynskey Level 3 frame) and I think the ride is pretty nasty.

Does anyone consider the ride of the Vuelta tubulars harsh? I'm running them with Conti Sprinter duraskins (at about 100psi on a Lynskey Level 3 frame) and I think the ride is pretty nasty.

Deep dish carbon rims ride stiff, race great. That's the deal weenies. Same thing with my Zipp 404s. But I've gotten used to the ride and actually like it. Give it some time.

I have a set of Reynold DV-UL's with Veloflex carbons on them and they are like butta compared to these. Yes I now they were 5x the price, but I just thought maybe it had to do with the direction of the carbon fibers, tire choice, etc. or something I know nothing about......

Believe me I'm not complaining considering the price, I just wondered if their was an obvious reason.

I have a set of Reynold DV-UL's with Veloflex carbons on them and they are like butta compared to these. Yes I now they were 5x the price, but I just thought maybe it had to do with the direction of the carbon fibers, tire choice, etc. or something I know nothing about......

Believe me I'm not complaining considering the price, I just wondered if their was an obvious reason.

Something tells me the difference lies in your tire choice. Those Conti Sprinter Duraskins should be definitely stiffer than the Veloflex Carbons.