Bicycle Mechanics - Installing Ultegra triple crankset

I am replacing the factory crankset on my cannondale, it is a cannondale black thing. The bb is making terrible noises, it doesnt shift great, and i have been told the cannondale chainrings and the shimano stuff dont mate well at all and the cannondale stuff weighs a freaking ton. So with 30% off total i just ordered this stuff below. Is there anything i forgot?


I just bought a Shimano® Ultegra® Triple Crankset
»75 / 021 00-5355H $119.98
1 Shimano Ultegra Bottom Bracket
»118 / 068 00-5493B $39.99 $39.99
1 Park® BBT-2 Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool
» / 00-9503F $12.99 $12.99
1 Spin Doctor™ Crank Puller

Do i need to grease everything down there when it is installed, do i grease the threads? The actual contacts between the crankarm and spindle? Bearings? Help please.

Assuming your former CODA cranks were triple, then you should be good to go in terms of parts and tools.

I think it is safe to say, that you can apply some grease to just about everything, including the axle splines. I do and don't have any problems. Some may even suggest that a strip of teflon plumbers tape around the BB threads might be a good idea. Although, probably not necessary as this usually helps with older frames at keeping moisture out.

You do own a pedal wrench to remove your pedals from your old cranks though, right? :)

Have fun.

Splined BB don't really need a BB puller, that is needed for sq taper BB where
there is a force fit between the taper and the crank. The Splines are not tapered and lock only in the rotational direction, not onto the cranks. They should be torqued on quite firmly however, as if loose, the splined BB will tear up the splines on the cranks. Make sure the cranks are properly fit and slide in fully as there are several "pseudofit" places on the splines that seem to work
but come loose. Several of us on the forum have discovered this. Worst case is a ruined crank. Steve

it is replacing a square taper cannondale crank, off of a '03 Cannondale R600 road bike heres the link to the c'dale page (http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/03/cusa/model-3RR6T.html)

Lots of grease on every metal-to-metal contact. Better safe than sorry :)

Splined BBs are tapered and there are splined BB pullers... See Park Crank Puller for Pipe Billet (CCP-4)

The square taper tool is Park Crank Extractor Tool (CCP-2)

ISIS BBs are tapered without stops... Shimano are tapered with stops... Oops I think that's the othe way around...

Well anyway... MOST cranks have auto-back-out crank bolts so a puller is not always required... However sometimes the retainer is missing (fell out or never installed) and these tools are for that purpose.

Go light on the grease... It will tend to make you over-torque the cranks and they will split later on during a ride... And don't think you can't split a splined BB... A friend of mine spent some time looking for a left Duraace crank that split open... Fortunatly it held together until we finished the ride.

I think everything is ok, i havent ridden the bike since installing the cranks yesterday but everything looks ok, 2 questions i dont have a torque wrench and the instructions are telling me to torque the crank bolts to x amount of torque, how much is a decently cheap torque wrench, and those little round things with the threads on the outside require some weird tool to install what tool do i need?

Go to Sears-the Craftsman beam-type torue wrench is the one you want-it's the same as Park Tool's. Should be around $30, and that's about dealer cost is on the Park.
You need a pin spanner for those guys on the outside.