Folding Bikes - Bsa 20

Is just a Raleigh 20

I was given it as well as an RSW and some other shopper style bike.

I thought of ripping the Strumey Archer AG hub for my Grifter Custom. The Hub is 28 spoke..not 40 like my other AGs. So could build it into a 20X175 alloy rim I have.
But I thought look around to see if theres anyone else messing with these bikes. Ive seen Sheldon Brown. But this has more bikes on it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/BSA.jpg

Ive had the rear wheel to bits. Built it back to the 451. They are rusty and dented. Does anyone know the spoke lengths to build an AG into a 406 rim? Have to figure out how to work a spoke calculator.:eek:

Ive stripped the components off. Cut off the stand mount with my grinder...set the smoke detector off twice:rolleyes: The frames sitting in my room now. Is going to work tommorow so I can recut the BB.

Thinking of fitting a 52 36 sakae crank Ive got. With gear mechs so its six speed. Got similar on my Lil Blue Bike.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/80bluegears.jpg
Also might cut the headstock down so can fit modern forks. Suspension ones.
Got an extension tube for fitting on a stem. So the bars will be high enough.
I might put the brake on the chainstays. As that will mean lower centre of gravity, shorter cable and less chance of the cable rusting up.

Yeah I know its not a folder....cosmic supply doesnt deliver the right things sometimes

Talk to Stevegor (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=74654), he's done some work on non-folding R20s (http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevegor/1229347201/) and I hate him for it. ;)

Yes a BSA Twenty is a Raleigh Twenty. Raleigh bought up a lot of smaller manufacturers in the mid-century and then released 'badge' engineered' versions of popular models that suited the 'brand'. So some were more sporty, some economy and some more deluxe, going under the names of Sun, Triumph, Rudge, BSA and Phillips, much like VW markets Seat as 'sporty', Audi as 'premium', Sköda as 'economy', VW as 'family'...

(edit) Oops I just realised that you weren't asking but merely stating. Sorry bout that (/edit)

This is probably one of the best places to talk to Twenty heads - many users on here are Twenty-heads including myself, Cheg, Stevegor, V1nce, easy_racer, Jur, sammyboy (sorry those I've missed). Oh and Sheldon pops his head round the door here every once in while too!

Best thing to do with spokes is use an online calculator - you just need to feed in the various dimensions and how many crosses you plan to have in the spokes and it should do the rest.
DT Swiss - the spokemaker has a good one:
http://www.dtswiss.com/SpokesCalc/Welcome.aspx?language=en

Brakes on chainstay is an inspired idea - will make for a more elegant rear that's for sure.

Links to my R20 site are in the footer plus I have a fledgling wiki set up here (http://www.littlepixel.info/twenty/wiki)as well ; it's somewhat incomplete right now but may have something of interest if only links to other resources.

Have fun with the resto/conversion!

I recut the BB shell to take standard cups. Going to narrow the shell too.

I seen in a BMX paper 10 years ago, about putting centrepull brakes on the chainstay bridge. Lots of modern BMXs have them there now. One of my RSWs has a Delta style centrepull brake under the chainstays. I got a brake bridge welded to my Grifter. Heres a pic of the brake on it

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/92griftergears.jpg

Have to get round to finishing it.

Oh yeah. My other RSW has a S3B rear drum brake hub. It might get used on something else

I narrowed the BB shell today. I cut near the twin tubes, with a hacksaw. Didnt want to set the smoke detector off again, by using the angle grinder. I had re threaded the BB shell as far as the tool would. So I screwed in right in an old BB cup. One with pin holes in it, a completely flat face.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/bbcup.jpg

I then cut the shell. Squint...doh.
I screwed the BB cup to the lowest point. Then filed the shell so the cup was flush with the shell. I dont have a frame facing tool at work....anymore.
I did the other side by putting in a cup..then seeing the bit that needed filed.
I was wanting it to be 68mm wide. But my wonky cutting meant its now 65mm.

I dented the chainstay, so theres a bit of clearance for the inner chain ring
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/tubedent.jpg

The BB axle is 118mm. Its a normal cup and cone one. Ive got lots of old bikes and bits.
Just looked in a box for it. The cranks are 52 42 steel rings on alloy arms. There ok. Might fit other ones to it instead
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/chainset.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/frameclearance.jpg
I can get my finger between the frame and the chainstay. Theres about 5mm gap between the inner ring and stay.

Ive put the alloys from my 3 speed BMX. Ive stripped it down. My road is kinda bumpy!!
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/BMXholed.jpg

I may fit suspension forks. I measured the standard ones. There about 31cm drop out to crown. The suspension forks are about 35cm. But the 406 wheels are smaller. Do I cut the top of the head stock. Or the bottom and top of it. As the new forks have a shorter steerer. But want clearance for the cranks. But not comedy steering angles

Hi Alexw35...

I recently completed my R20 project.
It has the Nexus 8 rear hub.
I have been contemplating adding a 2nd ring to the front, but not sure if a deraileur would work up front.
However, I see that you have 2 rings on the front of your R20.
What type of front deraileur are you considering using with your 2 ring front setup?
My thoughts were that a front deraileur may not work, thinking that there may not be enough real estate on the seat tube to mount it, considering the location of where the down tube meets the seat tube.
Maybe I need to take a closer look at that. :D

Oh got a topswing front mech.. think there really ugly
but what can you do.

I did get a campag front mech from ebay. But its a braze on. I got a adaptor. But it dont fit that campag mech....GRRRR. Sent the adaptor back which was nice of me...he didnt send my money though...GRRRR.

Think there might be enough room for a normal front mech.

But dont think there will be that much space on my RSW. So it may have to be a single ring on it

I was off today so did some more work to it.
I thought will I cut the headstock on the top and bottom So the frame will be at the right height. But the suspension forks are a little longer than needed. They will compress when I get on it. Be the same height. So I cut the top of the headstock. Means I cant fit a head badge...boo hoo. But the neat stacked rifles badge it had....was scored, as the bar bag support was resting on it.
I removed the steering lock stop half moon thing too.
I put a longer axle in my alloy front wheel. Dont know how it fitted in the BMX forks it was in before.

I looked for my stem extension thing. Couldnt find it. Put a SR stumpneck on it. With Bull bars.

Fitted the cables in the frame...so fiddly.

put a Weimmann 1080 rear caliper on it. I polished it up

I fitted the chain. Strangely it only needed 2 or 3 links took out to fit it on the 42 tooth ring.
It cant get first gear as the trigger hits the brake lever bracket. Can triggers be used on straight bars??
Its very tough to pedal in second. Might need a look in the hub

Heres a very dark picture of it. Camera wouldnt flash properly, so took it on my phone.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/bsa20springbike.jpg

Looking good! Got any more info on fitting the cables? I have a non-folding frame in shed awaiting a revival at some point and do wonder about refitting the internal routing.

Looking good! Got any more info on fitting the cables? I have a non-folding frame in shed awaiting a revival at some point and am do wonder about refitting the internal routing.


Huw,
Weld over the holes and put on cable eyelets..like on the Wasp...it's easier.

I put the inner wire in from the front. Then put a spoke in the hole at the other end. Try to catch the wire with the spoke head.

But the holes in the older Raleigh frames are quite wee.

Bikes like Raleigh Max have longer holes.

I slotted my Raleigh Denim that I chopped so the 2 holes were made into one.
Easier to get the wires out

I welded up the holes on my grifter

Gonna run the cables on the down tubes


might do cable stops...adjusters on there

This is coming along very well.

Wish I can weld and braze.

sigh...

I have so many ideas, but, they involve brazing and welding.

Great stuff.



I welded up the holes on my grifter

Gonna run the cables on the down tubes


might do cable stops...adjusters on there

oh not very good at welding wont do structural work.

but cable stops are ok.

welded cable stops to my Raleigh phaser 70s kids roadster with 24" wheels turned it into a mountain bike.

Heres a pic of Gold bike.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/gold3.jpg

I welded the stops onto downtube and chain stay. It was single speed when I got it 18 speed now.
Got suspension forks and aero rims on it. Had one of these as a kid. Had BMX parts on it way back then. Going to put BMX parts on my other Phaser.

Im thinking of getting a MIG welder. As only have a Arc welder. My shop sells tools like that.

Oh been looking for bits for my BSA 20
Got loads of boxes of bits...too much stuff too little time.
I looked for the cantilever brake arms that Im going to fit on the front.
Im wanting the one of my old black MTB. Nothing special.
But Id polished them up allready. Got the other brake from it, on my gold bike.
So I polished up similar brake arms. Oh hate doing that....Im a grey colour now..
Polished up a side stand too.
I found the handle bar stem riser tube. I got it on a dump find MTB. Took it off and sold the MTB..
Fitted that into the forks. Its about 8" long so the stem is about 6 " higher.
Fitted the cast alloy stem from my old black MTB.
With a Specialized alloy bars, oh actually paid for them....cost £1 at a car boot sale.
Much better riding position. The bars are at 36" from the ground
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/bsa20riser.jpg

hey boss was moving tyres in the warehouse

some old ones New old Stock if you like

20 X 1/38 451.

and a 24 X 175

I asked if I could have them

He looked on computer......
There £1 and £1.66 but I get 15% off that price.

Ok so Im using 406 tyre on this bike...but 2 other bikes use 451.

Gold bike and silver bike have 24" wheels.....like that size

hey boss was moving tyres in the warehouse

some old ones New old Stock if you like

20 X 1/38 451.

and a 24 X 175

I asked if I could have them

He looked on computer......
There £1 and £1.66 but I get 15% off that price.

Ok so Im using 406 tyre on this bike...but 2 other bikes use 451.

Gold bike and silver bike have 24" wheels.....like that size

If you were in the states, I would be ALL OVER those. I am running 451's on at least one of my R-20's and its slim pickings over in these parts. If anyone knows of any good 451 tire deals let me know :) Rims too... I would love to get some that are colored, but beggers cant be choosers...

Phatatude - Sometimes it not all about how fast you get there...But how ya look when you arrive...

Come check out the site! all your friends are doin it! (peer preasure)be sure to look at the archive...
http://web.mac.com/phatatude/Green_Space/Raleigh_Twenty_Blog/Raleigh_Twenty_Blog.html
www.web.mac.com/phatatude/Green_Space/Raleigh_Twenty_Blog/Raleigh_Twenty_Blog.html

best range of 451s in the US I've seen are on Bike Friday's site - whether the prices are so good is harder to tell but it's a good site to compare and contrast. Then when you know what you want you can always try the local stockist of whatever brand you settled on and see if they can get in on order for you.

I think Twenty's look special on 451s - it fit's their proportions that bit better...

oh the tyres Im getting are just cheap ones.
The 451 is a Vee Rubber tyre a roadster tread. With reflective band on sidewall.

Probably was only £7....not a fancy lightwweight tyre

Ive been polishing brakes for the 20.

On hate doing that.
Got a Dremel...well the one in Aldi supermarket.
Was getting the rough bits off the brake parts with the sanding drum
But still had to spend ages wet and dry sanding them.

Did a Weimman 750 centre pull brake. Gonna mount that on the chainstays

And did a cantilever brake for the front.

Im thinking of getting another Bench Grinder. The one I have, one of the grinding wheels broke.
So use that with polishing mops instead. So hopefully it wont take so long to polish things.
Got the rims and other parts to polish.

I've found polishing alloy calipers with a rag and some Brasso™ works pretty well.

yeah Ive tried Brasso, autosol, Duraglit...

They look ok if I scrub them with Brillo pads, in hot soapy water. My fingers are actually clean after that...well cleaner..

But my bike bits are old and corroded and damaged.
So I file off the casting marks and the dents.
then sand that flat...and the corroded bits

Then in the soapy water to wet and dry and brillo pad them.

But Im a man so cant with stand the allure of power tools.

Got a new Bench Grinder from B and Q so gonna get polishing mops for it.

Got loads of stuff to polish.

Chromed parts are much easier to restore by soaking for a short while in rust remover. Makes them look like new.

If one has found a nice bike, but has years of dirt baked on it, hiding the original colour of the paint in a type of "haze" (for lack of a better description), by lightly rubbing down the finish with Brasso will, for the most part, bring back that bright original paint colour.


I've found polishing alloy calipers with a rag and some Brasso™ works pretty well.

Oh the 20 is rusty and a yukky brown colour


So its getting stripped to bare metal and the painted black.
I like the look of the Raleigh Commando. A 18" wheeled boys bike, version of the shopper

So this bike is getting that look.

Might even remove the down tubes...dont think they do much.
Make it easier to drill the seat tube for the brake cable.

If they're there you can be reasonably sure they're there for a reason... Be careful if you start chopping off bits you may need later on.

I saw on here that some 20s dont have them

I had a Denim a 18" er 20...I converted it to a chopper. No hassle from the bottom of the frame.
But it kept on breaking spokes...in an old shimano 3 speed wheel.
The Commando is a sort of boys version. No downtubes on there
Got a couple of RSWs and they have some ugly sheet metal bracing.

Also I want the 20 to be light weight. So might loose 50grams or so if I remove the tubes

Nice one! Downtubes on NZ built Twentys were conspicuously absent so it's possible you could take them off so it looks more like a commando - though this will remove some of the bombproof stiffness.

If you 'Go Commando' ;) then you must try and source fit one of those gun-muzzle styled chainguards to complete the effect! The font is called Futura Black if you need to remake some Decals ;)

Oh I did have a Commando.
Was even rustier than that one.
So might still have the chainguard somewhere.

I saw on here that some 20s dont have them

I had a Denim a 18" er 20...I converted it to a chopper. No hassle from the bottom of the frame.
But it kept on breaking spokes...in an old shimano 3 speed wheel.
The Commando is a sort of boys version. No downtubes on there
Got a couple of RSWs and they have some ugly sheet metal bracing.

Also I want the 20 to be light weight. So might loose 50grams or so if I remove the tubes

Alec,
Just remember that those dts were put there for a good reason ie: frame strength and rigidity, even though the NZ bikes came without them....something about Kiwi uniqueness?
I would leave them there and go for lightweight comps as 50 grams is not much saving in the overall scheme of things. You could experiment with it by charging down some mountain with fully loaded
panniers putting the frame under extreme stress and see if it survives without the dts, but I recommend against this. My R-20 is used for commuting, bunch rides and now some touring and I don't nurse it, so the dts are staying put....that's my 2cents worth.

The frame totals a monstrous 5kg or so. I have given up trying to get light weight out of the R20. Now I load it down for the sake of a workout.

yeah Im no lightweight either.

would be used for jetting about....tarmac and muddy tracks
might even commute to work....but thats 20 miles away.

so will probably leave frame alone.

I got some bits for the 20. I ordered them through work.
I got a brake roller thing. I thought it was to enable me to use old style levers with V brakes.
Ive got a sidepull brake on the back just now..a Weimmann 1080.
Same as I have on the back of my Gold bike a Raleigh Phaser kids bike from the 70s....that Ive converted to a MTB.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/goldbike-1.jpg
The back brake on that and now the one on my 20 feels horrible. V brake levers pull a lot more cable.
So the lever doesnt move much....just feels solid....and theres not much ***********....admittedly Ive got old pads on...but its hopeless....also tough on my hand.
I put a bracket to hold the cable...so I can use a cantilever brake on my suspension forks, on Gold bike
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/goldbikebrake.jpg
Got another bracket, so might do the same to my 20. Seen them in the catalogue too, there £8

Heres a pic of the 20. With that roller thing on the V brake. But Ive took it off and put a 135degree noodle, and V brake levers.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/20grass.jpg
Ive changed the gear shifter too. The trigger couldnt select first gear. As the lever would hit the straight bars. Fitted a twist grip. Some shoppers came with them. Couldnt find a cable as long. it works, but I would like a bit more length... :-)
Heres what I did to make the trigger work.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/bsatrigger.jpg
Strapped the cable to the bars. Then grab the shifter to change

Alecw35 - What fork did you use on your bikes? I'm still trying to make an RST fork work on my R20. How did you get such a long steerer on the BSA20? It appears to be threaded. Is that the case?

I love my Phillip's Twenty... there is still much I want to do but she's a nice ride in any weather.

(obligatory pic)

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/phillips20b.jpg

Yeah I said before that I cut the head stock at the top...down to 4.2" Then fitted suspension forks of a kids bike. I fitted a riser tube thing, I got it on a Ladies MTB that I was given, sold that bike after that. I have seen one of these riser tubes on Ebay.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/riser.jpg

Might change the stem. I like the one in there. Had it on my black MTB years ago. I have Specialized alloy MTB bars. So might fit a Specialized stem, its very simmilar to that stem though

I was watching a TV show called Empty
Is a BBC Scotland comedy show.
this week the main star...Gregor Fisher was cycling a BSA 20 at the end of the episode.
He was getting harrassed by a man in a car

I looked at BBCs website...but it doesnt have the clip
http://www.bbc.co.uk/comedy/empty/
The afternoon Tea clip has the loud MC rapper he was the man in the car.
theres 2 episodes on Youtube have to wait for that one

For those of you that are allowed to use the amazingness that is the new BBC iPlayer to try and catch this moment - it might be still on there. For those that can't (ie non license payers..) - here's a screen-cap of an R20 in the recent(ish) hit movie 'The History Boys' hiding in the background like a shrinhking violet.

I've been waiting ages for an excuse to post this image... :)

I'm up to two Twentys right now and would not be surprised if more found me...

I suspect that here in Canuckistan, that Phillip's Twentys were sold far more than their Raleigh counterparts as I have never seen an R 20 or BSA 20 here.

It is good that I am fond of little gold bikes with Lion's heads emblazoned on the head badges and I just had to build a pocket rocket this week. I have been pricing out 451 parts as I want to build up a new wheelset using the SA hub in the rear and a Normandy high flange hub up front.

This was a bone stock Twenty on Monday evening when I started tinkering...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/P20roadie3.jpg

Alec,
Just remember that those dts were put there for a good reason ie: frame strength and rigidity, even though the NZ bikes came without them....something about Kiwi uniqueness?
I would leave them there and go for lightweight comps as 50 grams is not much saving in the overall scheme of things. You could experiment with it by charging down some mountain with fully loaded
panniers putting the frame under extreme stress and see if it survives without the dts, but I recommend against this. My R-20 is used for commuting, bunch rides and now some touring and I don't nurse it, so the dts are staying put....that's my 2cents worth.

From the information I've been able to find out from some people with local knowledge, the NZ bikes had a thicker diameter main tube but no downtubes. I haven't been able to get one of the rare UK twenties to compare with my kiwi twenty yet.

I'm going to keep the twenty standard, but I have built a Healing Cruiser (NZ made R20 copy) into a fixed gear commuter. I have a twenty frame I'm tempted to put the parts off the healing onto, as the twenty has a maintube that is slightly longer than the Healing.

67333 67334

Yeah heres the link for the Iplayer

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/page/item/b009g7j9.shtml?filter=txdate%3A13-03&filter=txslot%3Aevening&start=1&scope=iplayerlast7days&version_pid=b009g7fs

Says its only on for a few more days

Ive been building up a folding bike.

Is a Hercules compact.
I was given it.
Thought it was a horible Bianca clone.

I widened the rear end with a scaffold pole against the seat tube...for a 7 speed 406 20" wheel
The frame is badly made. The chainstays are hardly welded to the BB shell. Theres big gusset plates there. The BB seems ofset to one side.
The BB takes normal cups.
I fitted a Solida alloy crank the same as my 20 has. Was the first out of the box.
Havent put brakes or cables on it.
Going to see if I can get the weight low enough so I can carry it on the bus.
See if I can get a bag for it.

My neighbour just gave me 2 bikes.
A modern cheap ladies MTB
And a Raleigh ladies roadster that has stainless wheels. Was wanting a set of them.

She also had the Raleigh version of the Hercules Compact...but its someone elses
She had 2 lighter folders in the loft too. But cant get up there
Dont know what they were.

I geuss I could restore the old roadster...is a Hub date of 49 8
But I'll just rip the wheels for my Hercules Balmoral.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/Alecw35/Balmoral.jpg
I had a Balmoral when I was a kid
I swapped some old engines for a load of old bikes, about a year ago
Got the Balmoral and a tandem in the deal

Hey Ive been messing with my welder.
Been trying to get the hang of it so I can mod my bikes

So Ive been melding tubing cut from scrap bikes.
I thought try to make some actual thing.
So I got a mtb stem thats been bashed a bit
I cut the stem in too in the middle of the extension tube
Got a tube and put the 2 bits in there.
welded it up.

didnt even measure it Its an experiment
so when I put my welding gear away....I measured it....

180mm extension.
oh well
fit a real short frame

was trying to build up my Hercules compact.

Id widened the rear end to take 20" 406 wheels that have 7 speed freewheel on them.
I measured the drop for the brakes..around 80mm.
good I can use some of my weinmann 810 brakes.
I got a brake from a box..cleaned it up a bit. Then built it as a front, with stainless nuts and washers.
I got a pair of roadster type alloy bars. Tried to fit alloy weinmann levers to it, very difficult.
The rear needed a longer brake. So I looked in another box. There was a bag with a polished 890 brake arms in it, I had polished them a while ago.
I built that into a rear brake. Fitted it to the bike.
But couldnt find a cable long enough. Was trying to fit white cables. Re-using bits Id stripped from other bikes. Geuss I'll have to buy a cable. But can only get black from my shop.
I looked for a gear shifter. Couldnt find a 7 speed lever. Found a Grip shift. Dont like them, but tried it anyway. It wouldnt fit..grrrr. The bars are a bit thicker diameter.
Have to look for that 7 speed thumbie. Or could just put a 6 speed on there.
Also Ive got a Shimano 105 6 speed uniglide hub with 2 cassettes. I got it for my dirt cross. But It could go in the Compact.
The quick release clamps on the headset and the seat post are not playing the game. I took them off and cleaned them up. But the stem and the seat pin move in them. Maybe Ive got too much copper grease in there. Dont think so. The stem is the original one. I could put a proper stem in, Ive got a SR stumpneck. But want to be able to fold this bike, with out tools

I see that YST make a threadless Bottom bracket
so you dont have to mess with getting Phill wood cups or rettapping
they seem to be in 110mm to 122mm
but the ones Ive seen are only for 68mm wide shells.
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f%5FProductID=8151&f%5FFullProductVersion=1&f%5FSupersetQRY=C202&f%5FSortOrderID=1&f%5Fbct=c003154c003151c003226

YST also have the One peice bb shell to 3 peice BB axle. Like I fitted to my /city Boy folding bike. Got a nice looking one with sealed bearings and alloy cups.

Also seen a brand called Pristine. Its a 70 mm shell width. So might fit right in there. http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-0-Prestine-THREADLESS-Sealed-bearing-bottom-bracket-for-frames-with-damaged-threads-16505.htm

This was a bone stock Twenty on Monday evening when I started tinkering...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/P20roadie3.jpg

It's always fun to find one's old posts and see how things have evolved... I had the little fella down to 24 pounds before the fenders went back on.

I re-tapped the bb so I could install a cartridge bb and run my vintage Stronglight cranks with the flip flop (fixed/fixed) rear hub, and decided the 406 wheels and tyres were perfect for urban assaults as they roll fast and absorb the bumps really well.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/forreststronglight2.jpg[/QUOTE]

This is one of my favourite bikes.

Im wanting a fixed hub for a road bike Im building.
have been watching some on ebay.
But Im a tight Scotsman, so dont want to spend to much. :D

Im going to a second hand bike shop near my work today. If I remember.
Theres a couple of young men that are from there, on a placement at my work. One said that he could get the bike Im wanting on his discount. I got my City Boy folder there for £5. So hopefully they will have a road bike with a fixed wheel, and the Mk3 Chopper he mentioned.

I and Scottish and Irish which means I love to drink but hate to pay for it... :lol:

The flip flop hub on my Twenty is a double sided BMX hub that I converted to fixed.