Fifty Plus (50+) - hybrid vs. road for newbie

I have been riding a mountain bike for several years. I am 53 years old and in good shape from running and gym workouts..I am trying to save my knees, so I wan to do more riding..I was looking at a trek fx7.3 which they call a fitness bike or a flat-bar road bike..For about $200 more I can get a trek 1000 road bike.
My question is how hard is it to get used to the different riding position and the different shifters.

I hate riding road bikes, so I am a failed convert. However from studying this issue for several months and reading a lot of BF threads along the way, I'd say close to 85%-90% of the people who attempt to convert to a road bike are successful.

I am one of the 85 to 90%

A bike is a bike-It has to fit you though so make certain that you do get the right size. Only real difference on a road bike is the Bars. You have to remember there are 3 different positions and only in two of them can you reach the brakes and Gearchange levers. My only problem was geting the bar height right and a change of stem did that. Slightly longer and a bit more rise and it fitted the back perfectly- Except when I was in the drop position. That was only used on fast downhills so I could reach the brakes more effectively. Gradually I got more used to the drops and I now find them comfortable but it did take a bit of "Training" to get used to them.

Now if you are mainly doing road riding- I would say get the Race style bike. Occasional smooth trail riding can be coped with- but if mainly trail- Then go with the hybrid.

If you get to doing any serious mileage you will find a flat bar bike has a serious lack of hand positions.

I have a mountain bike, a road bike, and kind of a hybrid bike. If I were going to do it over, I'd buy a road bike but have the bars set at a much higher position than a typical road bike. The hybrid kills my hands after a while. I don't know if the mountain bike specifically hurts my hands, as I fall off it so often that everything else is hurting even more. The different hand positions on the road bike are great. The carbon fiber fork probably doesn't hurt.

If you get to doing any serious mileage you will find a flat bar bike has a serious lack of hand positions.

But if it is set up properly- You only need one position.

I rode the MTB for the first time in 6 months on Sunday. Not too many miles as the weather was against me but I put my hands on the bars- Fingers fell straight onto the brake levers and Gear changers naturally. Bar ends felt odd though so didn't use them much. And for bike control-this bike handles. I would not like to do too many miles on even smooth trails on the road bike.

I started with a Trek 3900 MTB with flat bars and rode 2,000 miles on it, almost exclusively on roads. I swapped the knobbies for slicks at 800 miles. I had no problems with hand comfort. I then got a flat bar road bike with narrower tires and put 2,000 miles on it, and added bar-ends and found them a nice change of pace now and then when riding.

Then I got a conventional road bike with drop bars, and I've put 1,400 miles on it, and although I like the fact that I can change hand positions, I use only two 98% of the time -- flat on the tops, and in the "handshake" position by the brifters.

I'm thoroughly used to it, but I still wish I could have the drop bars with flat-bar brake levers. I know I could install cheaters, but it's not that big a deal.

If it were me, and I were making the choice, I'd get a 7.6 at your point in your (re)cycling career. I think that's a better bike than the 1000, and it still has flat bars. You could ride LONG distances on it easily.

If you get to doing any serious mileage you will find a flat bar bike has a serious lack of hand positions.

A flat bar with bar ends has quite a few positions depending what sort of bar ends are installed.

What a drop bar really has that people use is an extra "aero position", usefull for heavy headwinds or serious speed. IMHO the tradeoff is in a brake lever with less power and modulation than I like, but that may also have a lot to do with hand size, riding style or whatever (I still do about 75% of my riding on an MTB and that will always drive my feelings as to what the cockpit should feel like)

If you get to doing any serious mileage you will find a flat bar bike has a serious lack of hand positions.

This sort of a set-up gives me all the hand positions I currently feel the need for. To the O.P., only time and your personal experience will tell. But as Mr. Bombadil rightly points out, the majority of those who ride on the road on any kind of "serious" level do so on road bikes. "serious" is open to interpretation.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/Huntmoor/DSC03080.jpg

This sort of a set-up gives me all the hand positions I currently feel the need for. To the O.P., only time and your personal experience will tell. But as Mr. Bombadil rightly points out, the majority of those who ride on the road on any kind of "serious" level do so on road bikes. "serious" is open to interpretation.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/Huntmoor/DSC03080.jpg

A very interesting custom solution there Terrierman. I'm going to have to put that on the list of things to try just to see what it feels like.

I am a former runner who switched to biking. I resisted road drops briefly but soon realized I much preferred the variety of hand positions on road drops. I spend 65% of my time on (or around) the hoods, 25% of my time on the tops (and I have inline brake on the tops as well), 5% in the drops (for heads-down, long hard pulls). I greatly appreciate being able to stretch the back out and get super aero in the drops for brief periods.

Sounds like you go at things hard. If I were you I would go ride drop bar bikes till I found one that feels like home and buy it. I have a flat bar road bike that I like to ride but when I want to do some miles I get the real road bike out.

I spend 65% of my time on (or around) the hoods, 25% of my time on the tops (and I have inline brake on the tops as well), 5% in the drops (for heads-down, long hard pulls).

The other 5% of the time, he covers his eyes with his hands and pedals like a madman while yodeling.

You're quick Tom, that's funny!! I could picture it!

Well, when I got involved in cycling, it was road bikes or nothing. So I tried an entry level road bike and although it looked intimidating, I was able to adjust to it very quickly. The light responsive bike and the multiple hand positions are very practical even if they look nasty. Even a narrow, hard seat is very comfortable if it fits. The main thing is fit.

If you have any aspirations for riding distance such as over about 12 miles per ride and you are going to ride on pavement, the road bike is the way to go. It looks daunting but it isn't.

I started on a hybrid, tried a road bike, (a second-hand Trek 1000), loved it, and have never looked back.

It took me a couple of weeks of daily riding for my upper back and neck muscles to become accustomed to the position.

Ultimately, it depends on why you ride and what riding does for you. I love my road bikes because with the barest of efforts--the lightest pedal stroke, or a mere wiggle of the fingers--THINGS HAPPEN. The speed, lightness of handling, and the ease with which it goes, steers and stops were instantly addictive. It was literally the very first pedal stroke on the road bike that sucked me right in.

By comparison, the hybrid felt like I was dragging around an anvil behind the bike. It was a great workout, don't get me wrong, but I ride for more than just working-out. Even so, I put 3,800 miles on the thing in a year, riding everywhere including rides people said shouldn't (and even couldn't) be done with a hybrid.

I'm on my second road bike already, yet I've still logged more miles on the hybrid. But since April barely a couple of hundred.

Edit: Oh, and the shifters. That took even less time to adjust to than the position.

At 55, I got back into cycling after several years away (had a steel road bike way back) with a hybrid. I anticipated having neck issues with a road bike, but I yearned for a smoother, lighter faster ride.

I checked out relaxed-geometry road frames from all the majors and settled on a Specialized Roubaix. I got used to the new bike much more quickly than I anticipated and after almost 1,000 miles on it have had no neck or back issues.

I think one key was finding an LBS with an experienced owner who had the knowledge and the willingness to spend time fitting me to the correct size frame and then adjusting things once the bike arrived. I spend most of my time riding on the hoods -- I ride residential streets -- and find that most comfortable. I spend much less time than I thought I would on the top of the bar. Now when I ride my hybrid I find the flat bar position gets uncomfortable rather quickly.

what are those vertical grips called on your bike and where do you get them?
Is it a whole new bar or just some extensions added to the original?

I think more important than the hand positions (although multiple hand positions are important if you're aiming at doing ride longer than an hour or so) is the effect on your neck and back. If you've got neck or back troubles, a flat bar probably is better. Otherwise, a road bike is definitely the way to go.

I too rode a moutain bike occasionally for a couple of years- mostly on roads or bike paths. Bought a road bike last spring because I wanted to ride faster and get up the hills easier. I loved it immediately- felt like I was flying effortlessly. I had NO TROUBLE adjusting to the hand positions and only a little adjusting to the shifters. (I still miss the numbers on the shifter that indicate exactly which gear I am in.)

But recently I've been wanting a lightweight hybrid because I want to ride on unpaved surfaces (such as mulch or gravel trails) because my mountain bike is just too heavy and slow but I am not comfortable riding anything but smooth paved surfaces on my road bike.

Good Luck.

I took up cycling at age 12 and have never taken a break from it. I love drop bars and would not have anything else on one of my road bikes. I kept getting tingles in the hands from my mountain bike until I added bar extenders to give me the neutral handshake position. An added plus for me is that my old school 4-finger motorcycle-style brake handles permit me to brake confidently from the extensions.

If I were starting out, I would get a nonsuspension mountain bike with handlebar extensions, followed by a relaxed-geometry road bike if I found the sport to my liking. My current stable includes one road racing bike (narrow tires and tight frame geometry), one relaxed-geometry sports touring road bike, one relaxed-geometry cyclocross/commuting road bike, and one mountain bike, plus one restoration-in-progress (Capo #2).

I too started with a mountain bike/flat bars and rode it 800 miles on the road. I moved to a road bike with flat bars and haven't looked back.

I'd suggest going for more bike than you want to spend initially. I know it seems like a lot more than you need but believe me, you'll outgrow it in no time. You'll be thinking of upgrading in a year or so save yourself the money over the long term and make the jump with the first purchase. Think of it as an investment in your health and fitness.

I too rode a moutain bike occasionally for a couple of years- mostly on roads or bike paths. Bought a road bike last spring because I wanted to ride faster and get up the hills easier. I loved it immediately- felt like I was flying effortlessly. I had NO TROUBLE adjusting to the hand positions and only a little adjusting to the shifters. (I still miss the numbers on the shifter that indicate exactly which gear I am in.)

But recently I've been wanting a lightweight hybrid because I want to ride on unpaved surfaces (such as mulch or gravel trails) because my mountain bike is just too heavy and slow but I am not comfortable riding anything but smooth paved surfaces on my road bike.

Good Luck.

Have you considered a cyclocross bike?

Road bike.

I have a mountain bike, a road bike, and kind of a hybrid bike. If I were going to do it over, I'd buy a road bike but have the bars set at a much higher position than a typical road bike. The hybrid kills my hands after a while. I don't know if the mountain bike specifically hurts my hands, as I fall off it so often that everything else is hurting even more. The different hand positions on the road bike are great. The carbon fiber fork probably doesn't hurt.

+1
Drop bars offer more positions. If you're doing a lot of miles, being able to vary positions helps big time. Don't cut or let the shop cut the steerer until you're sure of where YOU want the bars. Get some cheap spacers, so you can shuffle things around for different heights. You can always shorten the steerer later.

The way I look at, a hybrid has all the inconveniences of a road bike without the speed. I don't want to put up with fiddle-intensive mechanical parts and an exposed chain unless I get the reward of getting down in the drops and going whoosh. So buy a road bike, or maybe a touring bike, and set the handlebars high enough for you to be comfortable.

Paul

what are those vertical grips called on your bike and where do you get them?
Is it a whole new bar or just some extensions added to the original?

They are bar ends installed reversed and obviously, not in the usual location. Wrapped with regular old trek bar tape. Those happened to come from e-bay as son was building up a bike at the time and was ordering a bunch of stuff from the same place. But you can find them at any bike shop.

Then I got a conventional road bike with drop bars, and I've put 1,400 miles on it, and although I like the fact that I can change hand positions, I use only two 98% of the time -- flat on the tops, and in the "handshake" position by the brifters.

I'm thoroughly used to it, but I still wish I could have the drop bars with flat-bar brake levers. I know I could install cheaters, but it's not that big a deal.
My wife and I do trails frequently and roads as well. We decided to go with a Specialized Tricross. It comes with "cheaters" on the upper bar. I find myself using the cheater brake handles far more than the regular brakes. My wife says she wouldn't ride drop bars without them.

If I ever pick up a road bike on the cheap, it will have to have cheater/flats brake levers. I find it extremely uncomfortable to ride on the hoods, and it is dangerous to ride all of the time on the flats, with the brake levers so far away.

Jppe mentioned it but it is hard to take the step if you a newcomer. There is a level bike that is respectable for a newcomer- but if you can go up a grade or two then the biking experience is better.

I changed to road 18 months ago after 15 years of Mountain biking. I went for a Giant OCR3 The cheapest in the lowest line of respectable bikes from Giant. It worked but I did make a couple of changes to the set up of the bike. This is classed as a sports bike with regard to the geometry. Bars had to be raised a bit and I did have to upgrade the wheels but that was me being picky. A year later and I realised I wanted something better and tried a few bikes out. The ones that were comfortable were the full race geometry bikes. They are a few $$$$'s more- but you do get what you pay for. When I changed to road- I only looked at the sports lines- and a couple of Comfort bikes. Did not even contemplate the race bikes. A lot of money later and I am now chopping the OCR for another race bike. That set up of bike fits and suits me.

So while you are out looking at bikes- Try as many as you can and don't dismiss the $5,000 bikes- You don't have to buy it, only sit on it and possbly test ride, but you may find out that this style of frame suits you.

My wife and I do trails frequently and roads as well. We decided to go with a Specialized Tricross. It comes with "cheaters" on the upper bar. I find myself using the cheater brake handles far more than the regular brakes. My wife says she wouldn't ride drop bars without them.

The Specialized Tricross is a wonderful bike. I tried it and liked it a lot. Other than it not being white, there's not much to not recommend about that bike.

I have a mountain bike, a road bike, and kind of a hybrid bike. If I were going to do it over, I'd buy a road bike but have the bars set at a much higher position than a typical road bike. The hybrid kills my hands after a while. I don't know if the mountain bike specifically hurts my hands, as I fall off it so often that everything else is hurting even more. The different hand positions on the road bike are great. The carbon fiber fork probably doesn't hurt.
You need to put a trekking bar on your hybrid. It has more hand positions than drop bars and offers a more upright riding posture when on the grips. I converted an old Specialized CrossRoads hybrid into a touring bike and I've been very happy with the results. Here is a photo of my converted touring bike and I the just before setting off for a 3-day weekend trip.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r154/n4zou/crazyham.jpg

I started riding 18 months ago and went with a Trek 7.2 hybrid. I did most of my riding on local trails but on weekends would take it on the road. This past October I decided to get a road bike and bought a Specialized Roubaix Expert. I like the 7.2 but love the Roubaix.

I have 4 road bikes that I commute on [and one I'm overhauling] and one MTB. I've also had a hybrid and a folder. Two of my road bikes have aerobars, which add interesting hand positions.
I picked up the hybrid to use snow tires w/fenders but could not take it's sluggishness and weight. I love my [straight bar] MTB and would like to do some real MTB riding. On long training trips for a charity 180 mile ride I had severe problems with hand numbness. It also sucks as a commuter.
Go with the road bike, especially if you're fit.

I had a hybrid back in the 90's that gathered dust in the garage because I got bored with peddling around the local park. In '01 I got a mountain bike and enjoyed that until gas prices a couple years ago restricted my travel to my favorite MTB trails. Got my road bike in early 2006 and have been enjoying it since. I'm probably unusual in that I spend a good deal of time in the drops as I find it the most comfortable position and even on the hoods at slower speeds I feel like I'm fighting the wind. If I may offer one suggestion it would be to buy a better bike than you think you need. If you stay with it you'll realize why.

My question is how hard is it to get used to the different riding position and the different shifters.My question is: Can't you remember what it feels like to ride a regular road bike? Typically, different frame designs produce different stresses on the neck, shoulders and lower back.

Since your question indicates you haven't ridden many bicycles - you'd better select an entry level "comfort bike." Anything else will be too hard on you.

Well, since no one else has asked, I will;): OP, it all depends (there, that was helpful, wasn't it?)! First, what exactly are you riding now (mtb with knobby tires or with slicks??), AND a) what sorts of rides are you doing now, and b) what sorts of rides do you see yourself doing?

Example: if your mtb is decent (even basic but decent), AND right now you're, say, commuting and want to continue that but try out some more extended rides to see if you 'get into it,' my advice would be to make sure the mtb is as 'roadified' as possible (i.e. slick road tires AND set up re. fit/position for road riding), and ride the h-ll out of it for at least part of another season. You'll soon enough start figuring out if you really want to do this, then go looking for an appropriate bike.

I say this because, fwiw, in my view you won't know what to buy until you try doing the riding you want to do with what you've got already, and find it limits you in some way! Example: you find that you really get into doing long rides, and the flat bars on the mtb start bothering your hands, you'll know: 'road bike w/drop bars.' Or, you try long road rides, and get bored, and decide you prefer 'in the city/banging around the mup/maybe a bit of light off-road/I like flat bars,' then flat-bar road/hybrid/modified mtb might be your thing.

I concur with badger 1, which is why I mentioned a mountain bike as a good first machine. Put street / slick tires and handlebar extensions on a mountain bike which fits you properly, and you will have a pretty versatile machine for commuting, touring, and general recreation. Your experience on that bike will teach you about yourself and guide you toward your next bicycle purchase.

I concur with badger 1, which is why I mentioned a mountain bike as a good first machine. Put street / slick tires and handlebar extensions on a mountain bike which fits you properly, and you will have a pretty versatile machine for commuting, touring, and general recreation. Your experience on that bike will teach you about yourself and guide you toward your next bicycle purchase.

+ 1,000,000,000,000

(Is that OK, Weak Link?)

I started riding about a year and a half ago and I tried to push it and REI has a great return policy. So I bought a road bike. I ended up taking the same bike back twice. I figured I would never be able to use dropped bars and bought a Jamis Coda, which is a great bike and I'm still very happy with it. Now that I've been riding more and getting lower and lower with my riding position, I when with a road bike. I think if you jump into to much to fast, you'll get tired of it. Your different comfort levels will change as you ride more and you will get stronger in different areas where you can handle different kinds of bikes. I would try out some bike that you feel comfortible with and then move up the ladder, like most of us do here. You may save money buying a road bike right away, but if it doesn't work out, you lost all the way around. The hybrid will never go to waste, it'll always be there for short rides around the block, or to the store, or you waiting for a part for your road bike. Anyhow, good luck with your choice and Merry Christmas. Whatever you buy, I'm sure you will enjoy it.

My advice, if you plan on riding with a group, get the kind of bike the group uses. Whether they ride hybrids, road bikes, or even recumbents; your speed profile will be different from theirs if you don't have the 'right' style of bike.

If you plan on riding alone, then base the style more on your planned use - hybrid for short/slow rides, but lean more toward the roadie if you plan on doing faster/longer rides. I guess for long slow rides, you can flip a coin! Just don't get white! :)

+1 on BlazingPedals...also have the LBS really work with you on fit....don't be afraid to raise the bars a bit high for comfort early on.
You'll adapt to the levers quicky.
If you will be riding anything other than pretty good pavement most of the time then test ride a few cross bikes in the process just to see what you think.......mostly just have fun!
Bill J.

I plan on keeping my mountain bike for trails..and using my new bike for exercise on roads and an occassional spring,summer or fall commute-5-6miles each way and local errand type trips..I don't have any groups to ride with so I will be alone for now,,

The other 5% of the time, he covers his eyes with his hands and pedals like a madman while yodeling.We need a smiley for that! :yodel: :D

I started out with a flat bar road bike a Giant FCR1. Great bike I love it. But I got the road bike bug and for my 55th birthday I bought me a Felt Z35. There aint no way to tell you how much faster the Felt is than the Giant. I don't understand it I am sure someone here can explane why. All I know is the Felt is what I ride when I want to cover some miles. It will out climb our run out everthing the Giant. Now if I am going to ride a greenway I take the Giant. both are great bikes but for long rides give me a true road bike.

I like to switch back and forth between my road bike (a Peugeot) and a comfort bike (Trek), depending on mood and "need for speed". Definitely more hand position options on the road bike, but the comfort bike was named that way for a reason.

I like to switch back and forth between my road bike (a Peugeot) and a comfort bike (Trek), depending on mood and "need for speed". Definitely more hand position options on the road bike, but the comfort bike was named that way for a reason.

I had to try that color thing.

Anyway, what I wanted to chime in with was, in recumbent circles the term "comfort bike," as currently applied, is considered an oxymoron; i.e. any bike with a saddle is NOT a comfortable bike. It is merely a less-uncomfortable bike. It's all in the matter of degree, but I don't think I'd be very comfortable on one by the end of a century ride.

Does the location of your bar extensions interfere with braking or shifting? I have a Specialized Sirrus with a flat bar and like your solution to the issue of a lack alternative hand positions with a flat bar. Thanks Hotwired in Milwaukee

My advice, if you plan on riding with a group, get the kind of bike the group uses. Whether they ride hybrids, road bikes, or even recumbents; your speed profile will be different from theirs if you don't have the 'right' style of bike.

Excellent point!

I had to try that color thing.

Anyway, what I wanted to chime in with was, in recumbent circles the term "comfort bike," as currently applied, is considered an oxymoron; i.e. any bike with a saddle is NOT a comfortable bike. It is merely a less-uncomfortable bike. It's all in the matter of degree, but I don't think I'd be very comfortable on one by the end of a century ride.

I just never tire of reading that. It's so cute! :p