Bicycle Mechanics - Noise from Newly Laced Wheels set

Hi all,

I had a new set of 27" Sun CR18's laced up 3X with DT db spokes and new old stock SR (Sakae Ringyo) hubs. I do have a plastic spoke protector installed :) Im 198 lbs and I ride for fitness. They were built up by a bike shop with a good name.

When I got them it seemed like the spoke tension was pretty low. After the first 10 miles I had to retension and retrue them, especially the rear. They are true and tight now. I have a good truing stand but I dont have a spoke tension meter.

The next few times out they were ok, however, where the spokes touch/cross, they seem to stick together when you squeeze the pair and there seems to be some quiet/faint noise coming out of the rear wheel.

Is this normal for new wheels?

Im riding my winter bike since its cold and salty now. The new wheels have less then 100 miles on them now.

Can you describe the noise?

I think it would have been a good idea to take the wheels back to the shop that built them and have them verify the spoke tension when you became concerned about this.

But what's done is done, and assuming you have the spoke tension at an acceptable level now, one thing that comes to mind is whether you stress relieved the spokes. Did you stress relieve the spokes after you re-tensioned them? Here's a link to Sheldon's wheelbuilding article:

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating

Wheels that haven't been properly stress relieved will typically make popping and pinging noises. Is that the type of noise you're hearing?

Is sounds like a faint squeek, ticking or rubbing. Sorry its not very loud. I can hear it best when I ride in the basement or if I ride past something outside and the sound reflects off of it.

No the popping and pinging sounds typically happen right after I tension and then they go away.

After re-reading the Sheldon article it sounds like Ill have to keep retruing until the wheel stops going out of round.
Maybe the noise will stop at that time too.

The bike shop said to bring them back after 200 miles (min.). They are a couple hours away from my house.

Also, if the spokes are seriously undertensioned, you can get noises from the spoke crossings, usually faint ticking sounds. This actually sounds more like what you're describing.

As RichinPeoria said, you need to bring all spokes up to tension and stress relieve a few times before they keep their tension. If the noise is really bugging you, pull the spoke crosses away from eachother and squirt some grease between them.

In extreme cases, I've only been able to eliminate the pinging by placing small, lubed strips of tubes between spoke crosses. It's annoying as hell, but you're not doing any damage as long as you keep checking that spoke tension.

As RichinPeoria said, you need to bring all spokes up to tension and stress relieve a few times before they keep their tension. If the noise is really bugging you, pull the spoke crosses away from eachother and squirt some grease between them.

In extreme cases, I've only been able to eliminate the pinging by placing small, lubed strips of tubes between spoke crosses. It's annoying as hell, but you're not doing any damage as long as you keep checking that spoke tension.


If you properly tension and then stress relieve the spokes before you ever put the wheels on the bike, there should be no sounds coming from the spokes once you install the wheels on the bike and ride it. The wheels will stay true and round, too.

You really should borrow or buy a tension meter if you plan to keep on working on these wheels. It's possible that one undertensioned spoke is making the noise. It's also possible that, if you keep tightening the spokes, you'll overtighten them and ruin your wheel.

Just FYI - Sun CR-18s are, IMO, unpleasant rims to work with. They're hard to get perfectly true vertically... a lot of times there is a hop you just can't get out of the wheel. And they seem to respond to very slight tension changes during lateral truing. They make for a nice strong wheel though.

Derailer hitting spokes?

Thanks, I did look for that. The plastic spoke protector rubs the derailer before it makes it to the spokes.

I had a tick in my [true] 32 spoke rear wheel for a while until I put a drop of light oil between one particular crossed spokes. I never could reproduce the sound on the stand, only if my 205# lard butt was on it. Annoying but gone.

Also, if the spokes are seriously undertensioned, you can get noises from the spoke crossings, usually faint ticking sounds. This actually sounds more like what you're describing.

Yep, the crossings notch each spoke at that point, and when the spoke goes in and out of tension and slack, the notch moves around a bit, causing the pinging.

There is no preventing the notches, but the tension can/should be corrected.

Yep, the crossings notch each spoke at that point, and when the spoke goes in and out of tension and slack, the notch moves around a bit, causing the pinging.

There is no preventing the notches, but the tension can/should be corrected.

+1. Been there. Done that.

Bob

P.S. Back in the day they used to tie-and-solder the spoke crossings. Today, proper tension is the primary fix.

If I'd purchased a wheelset built up by my LBS and they'd performed as poorly as your attesting, I'd be politely but firmly expressing my frustration with the people at the shop.

And get rid of the dork disk.