Classic & Vintage - Nuovo Record BB

Right now I have a 115.5 mm NR BB (Italian thread) paired with a post-CPSC NR strada double crank, which I understand requires a 116.5 mm BB. It seems to me that the .5 m difference (on the drive side) isn't enough to throw the Q factor too much, but is there any issue with the taper length? It seems that my crank is riding really high up on the taper (hardly any is visible).

Geez, you ask some hard questions.

There is, to my knowledge, no diff in taper amongst all of the campy four flat, square taper bottom brackets. I just went to the garage and verified that a strada crank will work with a snobbity record carbon bottom bracket axle. If everything clears and snugs up, yer good to go. Else, some ham-fisted bike shop guerilla overtightened the fixing bolts and mashed out the holes in the crankarms (horrors!)

Someone's gotta keep you all on your toes!

Well, I did the work, and I did tighten it very well, and then re-tightened after riding it (loosened up). I think I'll just stick with this BB then and save myself the hassle of finding a new one.

did the bolts loosen up after riding, or did the crank itself get loose on the spindle...cause that can be disaster if you rode for any length of time. Soft alloy crank arm holes can get distorted fast on the hard steel spindle, and then it's never a good fit...voice of (bad) experience...

Just the bolts. As a mechanic building bikes out of the box in a bike shop, this is something that I know happens after an initial installation. The cranks should be fine.

did the bolts loosen up after riding, or did the crank itself get loose on the spindle...cause that can be disaster if you rode for any length of time. Soft alloy crank arm holes can get distorted fast on the hard steel spindle, and then it's never a good fit...voice of (bad) experience...

Not knowing what your biological torque wrench is set at, I find it also a bit curious that the arms required more tightening after a ride... I used to check, but after I got a torque wrench never did, it was not necessary.

Often gorilla mechanic munched arms show metal movement in the taper, slight but visible. If the rings clear the chainstay, good, one thing I am a big advocate of is actually checking the chainline with a straightedge, Campagnolo made a nice one as part of the big tool kit, way back a great one, it was square in section in steel and nickel plated, I did not believe it until while working at a shop long ago found the small brev. camp stamp on it. a ground edge is best, but do reference what you have.

Unless the chainring is hitting your chainstay you should have no problem. The main importance of the longer spindles coupled with the later crank arms was to allow more room for the stupid "lip" bent outward on the leading edge of the post-CPSC front derailleurs. I think we've all seen plenty of right crank arms with a nasty groove gouged into the back of the arm.

:mad: What a stupid idea that was [the mandatory "child-proof" derailleur, that is]. I'm just glad it quickly disappeared so we can all freely mutilate our legs once again. Makes me want to go sharpen a derailleur cage "blade" right now... :rolleyes:

Interesting. I think I have a pre-CPSC front der., so I guess I've got nothing to worry about.