Classic & Vintage - Cracked lug?

I just noticed last night what may be a crack in the top tube/seat tube lug on my PSV10. It is about 3mm long. I looked at it extensively with a magnifying glass, unable to tell if it's a small nick/gouge in the paint or if it's indeed a crack. The 'crack' appears to be only on the surface of the lug. When i look along the length of the top tube towards the rear of the bike, the crack is not in the wall thickness of the lug. If this is indeed a crack, will it get worse as to be unrideable?

bummer. if it is a crack, it will only get worse with time. If not, and it is really hard to tell, then it will just worry you to death. I have a trek 959 from 1981 with a line on the bottom bracket shell. It is probably not a crack, it is linear and clean, and hasn't changed in two years. But I check it every time I ride it...

bummer. if it is a crack, it will only get worse with time. If not, and it is really hard to tell, then it will just worry you to death. I have a trek 959 from 1981 with a line on the bottom bracket shell. It is probably not a crack, it is linear and clean, and hasn't changed in two years. But I check it every time I ride it...

The line on my lug is not linear but it does not run to the edge of the lug. Would a crack be more likely to start at the edge of the lug and run inward?

The few cracked lugs I've seen have failed close to the junction with a tube. In other words, if your seat cluster has a crack on top, I'd expect it to very close to the seat tube.

Neal

I just noticed last night what may be a crack in the top tube/seat tube lug on my PSV10. It is about 3mm long. I looked at it extensively with a magnifying glass, unable to tell if it's a small nick/gouge in the paint or if it's indeed a crack. The 'crack' appears to be only on the surface of the lug. When i look along the length of the top tube towards the rear of the bike, the crack is not in the wall thickness of the lug. If this is indeed a crack, will it get worse as to be unrideable?

Many years ago, my LBS owner told me this model is not suitable for heavier riders and I got the message that it is not that strong of a frame. This info, plus your mention of a crack, would lead me, if I owned the bike, to replace it.

I have broken several frames, but only one at a lug -- on my Nishiki, the seat tube lug broke away from the rest of the bottom bracket shell. I am a bit surprised by a crack in the top tube / seat tube lug, since this is a somewhat lower-stress point on the frame.

I have to ask...Is your seatpost above the limit line?

The interesting thing about this thread is you all forget (or do not realize) that on a decently made frame the lugs contribute very little to the strength of the joint.

If the tubes are properly mitered the real bond is where the tubes themselves meet; the lug just acts to support the tubes during assembly and to duct the solder (or brass) during joining.

I wonder if a cracked lug will matter at all..?

No, my seat post is not above the line. I've had the bike less than a week and have ridden it only 20 miles. After looking at it very closely with a magnifying glass, it looks more like a nick in the paint and then a scratch. I'm not so sure it's a crack.

As Emily Litella would say, "Never mind..." :D

Bullcrap. The frame's whippiness does not equal weakness. My 220/230lb body owned the exact same machine that Luis has, and despite some nice hard riding, I didn't encounter any problems.

P.S.: I severely doubt if weight is as much an issue as that of the power that the rider may be capable of.

To the OP: We need pictures.

-Kurt


Many years ago, my LBS owner told me this model is not suitable for heavier riders and I got the message that it is not that strong of a frame.

Would any of you guys know if my Peugeot is a PSV10?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=370510

There are so many models I can't tell.

Would any of you guys know if my Peugeot is a PSV10?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=370510

There are so many models I can't tell.

I think you posted in the wrong thread, young man.

I think you posted in the wrong thread, young man.

Yes he did, but I'll save him the bother of posting somewhere else - he has an '83 PSV-10.

-Kurt

Yes he did, but I'll save him the bother of posting somewhere else - he has an '83 PSV-10.

-Kurt

You're too nice, Kurt. He already has another thread in progress on his Peugeot in which he states the frame is Vitus 980. I can see the sticker on the downtube. I guess I'm short on patience today.

You're too nice, Kurt. He already has another thread in progress on his Peugeot in which he states the frame is Vitus 980. I can see the sticker on the downtube. I guess I'm short on patience today.

Oops, my apology. I reread his post. Was looking for Model no., not tubing type. Now where did I put my meds?

I think you posted in the wrong thread, young man.

Nope. See a bunch of guys talking about PSV10's and figured it would be good to ask and link to my thread in case you could answer.

Young lady. ;)

Thanks for the year and model Kurt. I figured it was a PSV10 since they looked to have the same frame, but the gruppo and tubulars confused me.

[QUOTE=blickblocks;5804752]Nope. See a bunch of guys talking about PSV10's and figured it would be good to ask and link to my thread in case you could answer.

Young lady. ;);

Oops, my bad. At least I was half right.:o

I weigh about 200lbs and the psv is a 56cm. The bike appears to be low mileage and well kept. What i'm worried is a crack is close to the edge of the lug, on the right side of the top tube. It is nowhere near the joint. I would post pics but none of them were useable.

Have you scraped any paint away to confirm it's actually a crack?

No, i haven't scraped away any paint. Should i ?

I don't know any other surefire way to make sure that it is/isn't a crack in the metal.

What should i use to scrape away some of the paint?

I used a knife blade.

An old trick to find cracks is to wipe the area with acetone or alcohol. Both are very thin and seep into cracks easily. They both evaporate very quickly with the crack being the last place of evaporation.

I dont think your issue would work well for the test as the 'indentation' in the paint will hold the liquid.

Are there any metal working or engineering companies in your area who could Magnaflux the part?

like I said...the ding is probably not a crack, but you'll worry yourself to death anyway. I know I do.