Bicycle Mechanics - Navaro Element Discs - Weak?
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12-12-07, 04:44 PM
My wife just had to have a navaro element when we saw it on sunday so there she has it. She test rode a few bikes and the issue is it just doesnt' seem to have alot of stopping power.
It has BB7s but I don't think they are road specific. It has Tiagra brifters.
To get the wheel to stop you either need to put the pads to they are rubbing or pull the levers all the way down. She also tried the navaro safari with discs and the thing stopped with a ton of power.
difference I see
The Safari uses Mountain Bike Levers.
The Element uses STI and interrupter levers (cross levers/cheaters??)
The tech blamed the interrupters. I dont' buy it because on my fuji touring xtracycle I have interrupters and the thing will lock up like nobodies business from the levers or the tiagras.
Is it the intterupters or are they mismatching brakes/levers? I'll check again but I'm almost certain it says nothing about being a road BB7 on the brakes is there any obvious difference? If she does have non road BB7s will one of those travel agent thingies work safely?
12-12-07, 07:12 PM
I had a bike with Avid BBDB Road brakes (like BB7). I had a similar issue - mushy brake feel, too much lever travel. I think it's just the way Road BB7's are. For what it's worth, I had acceptable results when I put on new pads and performed the procedure to "true" the caliper with the rotor. I could still squeeze the brake levers to the bars, but the braking was good enough that I never needed to.
Also, you need to have a true rotor so that you can run the pads very close. I ran my pads so close that they would drag very lightly.
But I would think the calipers should say "road" on them somewhere.
12-12-07, 07:23 PM
I have two bikes with STI levers and Avid Road BB7s. Both of them work as good as any bike with mountain BB7s. It is important that you have the Road caliper with STI levers. The calipers should have a label saying either "ROAD" or "MTN" - if yours say "MTN" they are the wrong type to use with STI levers. Also, you should have inline barrel adjusters on your brake cables. Use these to remove any free play from your brake levers, in other words, the arm on the brake caliper should start to move the instant the brake lever starts to move. The brakes absolutely should not be mushy if correctly adjusted.
12-12-07, 07:39 PM
ok they are actually roads. Don't know how I missed it last night but they dont' say one way or the other online so I guess I assumed the worst. The rotor seems to be running really true so I adjusted the pads closer. I also took up the slack in the lever with the barrel adjuster. I hand spun the wheels and they roll pretty far.
Thanks for the info. We'll probably take it out over the weekend due to the foul cold weather right now.
Hey I work as a mechanic for REI and I've had to solve this on a few elements. The tech at your store should do this for you free of charge. The brake housing between the bar top levers and the STI's is either too short, not properly secured to the bar or both. This can be remedied quickly by re-taping the brake housing to the handlebar. When you squeeze the lever it is actually flexing the housing away from the bar instead of engaging the brake. Other possibility, the brake is not dialed in properly.
12-14-07, 11:36 PM
I hate to state the obvious, but...
Because these are new disc brakes, the rotors and pads have to be actuated 20-40 times under load to seat in. It does however sound more like your complaint is mushiness, which is more likely a cable slack adjustment.
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