Fifty Plus (50+) - Help for New Rider 53 YO

I have run for about 30 years now and am looking to do some cycling to supplement my running. I plan on riding at least once a week for an hour for fitness and possibly doing a longer ride with my son this summer. My budget looks to be about $2000.00 to get started. I plan on about $1500.00 for a road bike and maybe another $500.00 for shoes, pedals, shorts/tights and other accessories.

My past riding experience has been MTBs but not for about 10 years now. Definitely new to road cycling and will go to LBS to try many bikes.

Does this budget sound reasonable?

Of the mentioned accessories/stuff what is the minimum and most important?

I don't know your financial status, but that seems a little high to me. The general rule of thumb is your first bike (or first road bike) is supposed to teach you what you want or need on your second bike (or second road bike).

It was six months exactly between my first road bike and my second. It's only because I didn't overspend on the first that I could afford the second so soon. The second has completely different geometry from the first--something you can't accomplish with upgrades.

Thanks. That is actually good to hear.

I don't know your financial status, but that seems a little high to me. The general rule of thumb is your first bike (or first road bike) is supposed to teach you what you want or need on your second bike (or second road bike).

It was six months exactly between my first road bike and my second. It's only because I didn't overspend on the first that I could afford the second so soon. The second has completely different geometry from the first--something you can't accomplish with upgrades.

Good advice. And that is how I started in road riding. problem is- how low a grade of bike do you go? Main thing to do right now is get round your Local Bike Shops. Finding the LBS that will treat you right can be difficult and it may not be the biggest shop in your area.

It did take me a year before I got my decent bike- I must be a slow learner- but that first bike is important. It will teach you how to ride- it will teach you that you got the wrong bike whatever you get but it will also show you what sort of bike you want. So the second choice will be better- And the 2nd choice will show you what the 3rd one will be.

one I can recommend- and so could quite afew others on the forum- is a Giant OCR3. Not a top rate bike but does work. Follow the link below to it.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/road/1243/29271/

But another in your price value is

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/road/1237/29255/


On the other side of accessories- Helmet, glasses, gloves, shorts, jersey and top coat. If you are not carefull- that will take care of the $500 but don't get the shoes and pedals yet- Give it a few months before you get those. Then on the bike- Pump- spare tube- levers- and patch kit in a small under saddle wedge. Then there are the ride expenses- Don't forget that Pie and coffee is obligatory on this forum so make allowances for that aswell.


Edit- Or you can do what I should have done and sell the kids to buy the bike you really want.

When I was fitted for my first road bike I was treated like I was at the
ophthalmologist (sp?): is A better or is B better?? At the ophthalmologist
I could tell. At the bike shop I didn't always know. That is why I needed
competent help to fit me. I think that proper fit is a big deal.

Life is too short to ride cheap bikes.... as someone on this forum has said before. $1500 can buy you a pretty decent road bike; one that could last a few years, or until you get bitten by the "I've gotta get a new bike" bug. Personally, I'd look at the Jamis line. They often have great bikes with component packages typically found on higher end bikes. I'm sure others would disagree, but I think you should be looking at a bike with nothing less than Shimano 105 componets in this price range. And as others will confrim, fit really is very, very important.

I also wouldn't spend less than $1500 for the bike, go to a good bike shop, have them fit you properly, and get as much bike as $1500 will get you (good sale prices now). Your allowance for accessories is about right, think about Speedplay pedals, they don't put stress on your knees like some others might, they ARE worth the money.

Look at Giant, Cannondale and Specialized bikes, they are well made.

At your price point Jamis would have a few models ,like the Quest steel or the Ventura Elite for example
http://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08venturaelite.html
http://jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08quest.html

I would consider getting a used bike first. Some good deals can be found if you're patient. Then you'll have a better idea what you want before dropping more money.

If you have 2 grand to spend, that means you have 2-4 grand to spend on another bike setup later on. Spend it while you can. Don't wait and end up with regrets. Used bikes take a while to locate and try out. Go new. Its not the most economical way but don't let time pass you by.

You're disciplined because you're a runner for all those years. So road biking is something you will not quit because you can't handle the workouts.

Tglide,

The best (and least expensive) advice I can give you is to find a reputable lbs (local bicycle shop) and get a bike that fits YOU. Trust me when I say that it doesn't matter how much/little you spend on your bike; if it doesn't fit, you'll regret it.

Case in point. I purchased my first road bike (Marin Portofino) at REI on sale with no more fitting that making sure I could stand over the frame. Luckily, with a few adjustments (longer stem, wider bars, seat pushed all the way back, I got close...but it never felt quite right. I kept noticing one hand kept falling asleep while riding long distances, as well as a feeling like I was reaching for the bars. Well, after wrecking my first bike (another story) after almost 4 years of riding, I did it right the second time around and went to the lbs and explained the type of riding I enjoyed. After several trial runs and a custom fitting, I selected a Specialized Roubaix Expert, 3cm larger than my first bike, and couldn't be happier. It's carbon frame/fork and relaxed geometry made my last century ride much easier.

+1 on fit. it is the most important factor.

About cost using a touring bike as an example: Touring bikes are the pack mules of road bikes. made to carry a lot of weight long distances. One could spend $5,000 outfitting a Waterford Adventure Cycle. And they would have one fine machine. Yet, the bike that has crossed this country more than any other is the Trek 520. Cost: about $1,000. Is the Waterford really 5 times better than the Trek? It is custom made, and utilizes higher end componts. Still, the question isn't whether thee Waterford is 5 times better than the Trek, it's is it better at all? Only to those who beleive those extra dollars will buy them something more.

It's no different with any other aspect of biking. More money isn't always better.

Tglide,

The best (and least expensive) advice I can give you is to find a reputable lbs (local bicycle shop) and get a bike that fits YOU. Trust me when I say that it doesn't matter how much/little you spend on your bike; if it doesn't fit, you'll regret it.



+1
A good LBS should be able get you the best fit for the type of riding you will be doing and for your budget.

Thanks. I'm thinking that once I start cycling I will stick with it. I have had good help locating an LBS and will plan to pay more for their expertise hoping that if they take good care of me they realize they will have a repeat customer.

$2000 should be plenty.

But my theory is buy big and enjoy. CF is the way to go.

Naturally it depends on your financial situation, but I would suggest to start with a decent bike to ride for a year or so while learning what you really like/want. Then dig a little deeper in the pocket for the keeper. It is very unlikely that the first bike is going to be the one you stay with. My first road bike as an adult was the equivalent of what sells today for about $700. I kept it a year and spent twice as much for the bike I am still riding today with several changes and upgrades to components along the way. That was 15 years ago.
The reason for the second bike was not that the first one was too cheap, it was that I learned enough about how I liked to ride and how that related to the type of bike I was riding. A year later I knew exactly what I wanted and I knew it was not the bike I was riding. I could not have known that before.

Fit, fit, fit.

The problem with a used bike for someone new to cycling is that you likely have no idea of the frame size and geometry to fit your particular body type. Long legs, short torso requires a different geometry than short legs, long torso. So, what you really want to buy is a good LBS who will assist you with the bike that meets your riding style and body geometry, no matter what you pay for the bike.

I have a Lemond that cost a lot and a Windsor from Ebay, but I bought it only after I knew from the Lemond what my body could live with.

I tend to agree on the issue of fit... however, if you buy a compact frame, you have a lot of leeway to getting that perfect fit, in the fact that tweaking the seatpost and the stem you can get pretty much the 'perfect' fit off of a relatively standard frame.

I would agree that you should get no lower than 105 if you go Shimano--ultegra if you can. The 'bang-for-the-buck' for Dura-Ace is not really worth it--. Check the bike shops and see what is on sale in a compact frame. Find the one that is closest to your fit, and then get it 'fitted' to you, or check the archives for bike-fit formulas that take into consideration your inseam, torso etc lengths.

I also feel you should go for the pedals and shoes RIGHT AWAY. There is no reason to deal with straps and cages to get your foot on the pedal. Go with one of the established pedal systems, and you will be happy. You need to do some research to decide what's right for you-- I use Look for my road bike, but SPD on my commuter, because I do have to walk in the shoes with cleats on them. Other options that are good are Speedplay (I didn't like them because there was too much float) and crank brothers (I probably would have gone with these, but I had too much invested in spd's--and I didn't want 3 pedal systems/shoes on 4 bikes).

The last piece of advice I can give you is get the most bike you can afford.

As an aside, be aware that price in itself is not the first thing you should look at. I have found ultegra-equipped bikes for $1000-- and they have been GREAT bikes, you don't get much more by spending $2500 on a bike. Beware of hype due to 'this bike was ridden by so and so...'... Remember-- YOU are the one who will be riding the bike. Also, it is good to be unique-- and be the only guy on your ride with an XXX brand bike-- as opposed to all the Treks and Specialized, or Cannondales out there.

Also, as DG says, STAY AWAY FROM WHITE BIKES :)

Enjoy your search, and let us know what you end up with :)

train safe-

Once again, I've been seriously misquoted. :(

I did exactly what you're doing, 3 yrs ago at the same age. To me, the dollars are correct. I bought a Trek 2300 aluminum frame, carbon fork, that is now my winter bike. This summer I bought a new carbon frame bike. My Trek fit me well when purchased, and still does. I've been very happy with both bikes.

Bike fit is important but it doesn't need to be that precise. You can read a few books or websites about bike fit, get an idea of what your frame size should be, and find a bike within 2 cm of that size. Since finer adjustments can be made by raising and lowering the seat or changing the stem.

Just as important is having the bike fit the type of riding you do. And this will change over time. A lot of road bicycles sold today come with very narrow tires and have no means or room to attach bags, racks, fenders or pumps. If all of your riding will be done on cloudless days with your significant other following you in a car with food, spares and tools then this would be viable choice.

I recommend finding a versatile bike that will allow you to ride a wide variety of tire widths and allow you to carry stuff. Also look for a bike where the handlebars are somewhere close to the same level as the seat. Bikes like this can be found new in bikeshops if you ask around enough. And there are thousands of bikes designed like this available used from the 70's and 80's that are for sale cheap locally. everywhere. That's what I would start with while you experiment with tire sizes and saddles to figure out what you like and dislike.

Thanks again for the help. Went to LBS and tried a few bikes on for size in my price range. The shop is going to get me a Trek Pilot 2.1. They suggested I try that because of some lack of flexibility in my lower back from all the years of running. I will try that and see if that works. Thanks to all!

Thanks again for the help. Went to LBS and tried a few bikes on for size in my price range. The shop is going to get me a Trek Pilot 2.1. They suggested I try that because of some lack of flexibility in my lower back from all the years of running. I will try that and see if that works. Thanks to all!

I think you'll be very happy with the Pilot; I just got one as well and I love it. Good luck and ride safe (and often!).

Thanks. Seems like a lot of us old guys are going for Trek Pilots or similar bikes by other manufacturers with slightly different (more upright) geometry.

If you like the Pilot, you might also take a look at the Specialized Roubaix. I hear it's a wonderful bike.

Thanks again for the help. Went to LBS and tried a few bikes on for size in my price range. The shop is going to get me a Trek Pilot 2.1. They suggested I try that because of some lack of flexibility in my lower back from all the years of running. I will try that and see if that works. Thanks to all!

You say there is is some back problem and this is a problem that a lot of us have. I have, but one of the things that is always suggested is to get a "Comfort" bike. I am not saying it is wrong- but when I went to road riding- I got one such bike. Classed by Giant as a Sports bike- the description of the OCR is that it offers a more upright position. This it does in that the bars are higher and are closer to the saddle. Cheap bike to start off with but it was not long before I found that the bike was lacking. I put a few upgrades in- but it still was not there. Next bike and it was a full "Race" geometry frame. Bars were lower and it gave a more stretched out riding position. Had to raise the bars a bit but this bike is comfortable. Not only comfortable- it fits perfectly. So much so that the OCR was no longer a good ride. So Replacement bike time for it and Went for another giant with the race Geometry again. This is still too new to give full judgement but the bars are set a fraction too high. rides well and is comfortable- but I can lower the bars to get a better fit easily.

Now although the shop is suggesting going for the Pilot- Do not forget about the other bikes that are around and give them a try. The specialised Roubaix is one that I will recommend you try. Price does range from sensible to Gold plated. and if you are happy with your LBS- then do not forget to try a couple of the different Geometry frames that they have such as the Madones.

There is no way I will say that you are fit enough (Bike fitness is different to fitness) to go out and race- but that race Geometry is comfortable. And as such- could fit several of us that have not tried it.

Attachments below are of the bikes I have- The OCR first and you can see the bar height. The White one- (I hate that colour) is the latest one that still has to be sorted for Comfort- and Boreas is the one I ride most and is sorted for me. Basically 3 bikes set up differently and they all fit. The "Comfortable" one is Boreas.

You go into a bike shop with racks full of road racing bikes with handlebars four inches below the saddle, you try getting on one and notice that it's horribly uncomfortable, you mention it to the clerk who says something like "You have a lower back flexibility issue." Maybe, but I think it's because the handlebars are too f**king low. Period. Hardly anyone would be comfortable on the damn thing. This scenerio goes on in bike shops every day. My brother's girlfriend is an avid biker and when I first saw her bike I noticed it had a steering tube extension to get the stem up higher. She said the bike shop clerk told her she had an oddly proportioned body which was why she wanted the handlebars higher. They still weren't up to saddle level. There was not a single centimeter of odd proportion anywhere on this girl, it was the bike that was all screwed up.

If you look at many decades of bike development the handlebars were in close vicinity of the saddle height and that includes Tour de France racing up through Eddy Merckx. In the 80's racers started using bikes with much lower handlebars to improve aerodynamics that are hugely important in a time trial or breakaway at 35 mph but for no other reason that I can think of besides being a fickle follower of fashion all road bikes for the general public soon followed suit.

If you are comfortable with a bike with low handlebars than I am happy for you. You have a wide selection of new bikes to choose from. I happily spent a couple decades with my stem buried in the head tube myself. But I really get peeved when someone trying to buy a bike is told there is something wrong with him when it is clearly a problem with the bike design.

The Trek Pilot is a good choice.

If you are comfortable with a bike with low handlebars than I am happy for you. You have a wide selection of new bikes to choose from. I happily spent a couple decades with my stem buried in the head tube myself. But I really get peeved when someone trying to buy a bike is told there is something wrong with him when it is clearly a problem with the bike design.

The Trek Pilot is a good choice.

There is more to a race bike than a bar set too low. That can be changed if required. On Boreas I had to set the bars a bit higher by flipping the stem and if you look at the TCR- the bar is set quite high and still room to raise if required. But I have found that the Sports/ Comfort bikes give me a hunched up stance. They are in general shorter in the top tube length and the seat angle and Bottom bracket position do seem to give me an uncomfortable position. And that pain in the lower back.

I am not advocating that everyone should get a race geometry bike because they are better. All I am saying is do not cut out trying the race and performance bikes- just because we are older than the average buyer and have a mobility problem. For some of us- that different geometry works.


Edit---I only knew that the sports geometry bikes were not for me after I had got it and ridden it for several months. I did not try other types of bikes at the time because I was a newbie to road riding and better get something comfortable. Points to the fact that it does not matter what sort of bike you get first of all- It will only point to what your second bike should be and have fitted to it.