Bicycle Mechanics - Tight tire install... tips?

Stupid search function... i tried going back like 15 pages but couldn't find the recent thread..

new tubes,tires and wheels.. both front and back same amount of tire left to be folded in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/Bike/IMG_0555.jpg

1) Tire levers
2) Check that your rimtape isn't too wide

Remove a little air from tube so you can push the tire bead into the center of the rim (area in red) were the deepest part is you only need to do this to the side your trying to get on not both sides this will give you the needed room to get it in. Pushing in any part will do give it a try.

'TIRE BEAD JACK'..............Check out the bottom of the page.


http://www.koolstop.com/Accessories/index.php


Never met a tire too tough to tame with a 'Tire Bead Jack'.

I just installed some tight as buggery tyres on my bike so I feel your pain. Here's what worked for me:

Use some talcom powder all over so it doesn't stick to the rim and get too tight
Warm up the tyre somehow as suggested
Get the bead right in (towards the hub) as this gives you more room
Use levers
When it's nearly on (like your picture), sit it up with the bit to be done at the top and facing away from you, grab the top and try to roll it back towards you.

If all else fails, do what I did and make some little string clamps to hold the bead in so you have enough to work with (yes I actually did this).

That's my newbie contribution. I hope it helps. I also hope the tyres stretch once they're on because I don't want all that pain out on the road!

These are the answer to not only your problem but anyone having this difficulty. One of the levers is placed on the top of the rim and then hooked over the tyre in order to pull it up and over into position.


http://shrunk.net/8ae3a5db

Warm the tires up in the clothes dryer.

In spite of 'standards', there are variations in tire & rim dimensions. If you use a tire that is on the small end of the standard & a rim on the large end, you wind up with a very tight fit. On the other end of the spectrum, you could wind up with combo that could slip right off the rim.

Ask a well seasoned bike mechanic about different combos.

I would use tire levers, but make sure the tube is fully inside the rim and that you do not catch it with the levers and pinch it. Some tires and rims are simply just that way and are tough to mount. My 27 x 1 1/4 tires are impossible to mount without tire levers.

I have had the best luck by keeping the bead of the tire at the rim center of the wheel. That provides the most length when pulling the bead over the rim. Keeping the sidewall beads compressed and in the center of the wheel rim can sometimes eliminate the need for tire levers. You need hair on your fingers for that to work.

since you got a lot of good suggestions for dealing with the tight tire, I will give you one for dealing with the search function.

Use Google. Like this. In the Google search window type "tight tire site:www.bikeforums.net" with out the quotes and it with search this sight for those key words (change key word(s) as needed). I have found this to be very helpful for me.

One more insight on tire levers. Last month I installed a new set of tubes and tires on my Neuvation wheels and within 10 mins on the trainer I got a flat. I patched the tube and the next day on the road, another flat (same tire and same tube, but in a different location). I replaced the entire tube this time. Next day another flat with the new tube. Now I was getting pissed. I replaced the rim tape, and installed yet another tube and yet another flat within 20 miles. What the heck? I was starting to think I was crazy. I then realized these were tough tires to install I had switched to some new tire levers with steel cores (I had broked the 2 plastic ones I had lying around). During the instal the steel cored tire levers were damaging the inside of the rim where the last bit of tire was getting put on- putting little sharp edges on the inside of the rims. I ended up gently sanding down the inside of the rim and switching back to plastic tire levers and no more flats.

Thanks for all the great info.. I left them 90% on the wheel last night in a warm room and this morning they went on with only a bit of elbow grease and the pull the bead inward trick.. didn't even need the tire irons today.

success
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/Bike/IMG_0562.jpg

Use Google. Like this. In the Google search window type "tight tire site:www.bikeforums.net" with out the quotes and it with search this sight for those key words (change key word(s) as needed). I have found this to be very helpful for me.
Thanks much for the tip. It works better than the regular BF search function and works well on other sites, too.

Yes, thanks Bolo Grubb for the tip. I always search that way, since it seems to beat all the forum search functions I've ever come across.

Google is our friend. :D

FYI -- DON'T use tire levers to install tire - you'll probably pinch and puncture the tube. There is a way of gripping and twisting the tire to get it mounted when they fit so tightly -- I can't describe it on the 'net, but any decent mechanic can show you the move in 5 seconds. Just ask at your LBS.

Hah! It's because they're Michelins. I use Continentals on two of my bikes and they're a breeze to install. The Celeste Michelin Axials on my Bianchi on the other hand...

FYI -- DON'T use tire levers to install tire - you'll probably pinch and puncture the tube. There is a way of gripping and twisting the tire to get it mounted when they fit so tightly -- I can't describe it on the 'net, but any decent mechanic can show you the move in 5 seconds. Just ask at your LBS.

In winter I always have to use the tire levers to get my Conti Force/Attacks on to the rims, GP 4000s are OK, but the F/A are just to tight once it gets down below 8C.

Never pinched a tube yet, but I agree that it is a big risk though.

Hah! It's because they're Michelins. I use Continentals on two of my bikes and they're a breeze to install. The Celeste Michelin Axials on my Bianchi on the other hand...

Yeh I had great trouble trying to get Michelins on and off a previous bike, I now use Continental GP4000 and they are super easy. I was told by a bike mechanic to use talcum powder too.

Start at the valve, don't end at the valve.

Start at the valve, don't end at the valve.

Ya, and wipe some spit on the tight part of the bead - before the tight moment!

Start at the valve, don't end at the valve.

Sounds like bad advice…

…I always start opposite the valve, and work around from both sides to finish at the valve.

Just think about it for a moment; if you start at the valve, the bead of the tyre won't sit as low in the rim because the valve will be in the way; starting from opposite the valve, will make it easier to get the bead as low in the rim as possible, thus making it easier to get the bead over the rest of the rim.

- Wil

No, you should start at the stem. You can get the bead down far enough to get the tire on. But ending at the stem complicates things. The stem will only be partially through the hole, making it harder to get the tire on and the possibility of damaging the stem. Unless you have the stem all the way down, then the tube won't be fully in the tire giving a better chance of catching the tube underneath the tire, again, a bad thing.

Start at the stem and end at the opposite side.

With the greatest of respect, SweetLou, what you're saying makes very little sense…

- Wil

I always start at the valve. I have never failed to complete any tire install.

I always start at the valve. I have never failed to complete any tire install.

Me 2

I always start at the valve. I have never failed to complete any tire install.

Do you mean right at the valve, or next to the valve, and work away from it?

- Wil

AT the valve, then work evenly around the rim. The key is to work the bead into the center of the rim and don't have too much air in the tube.

AT the valve, then work evenly around the rim. The key is to work the bead into the center of the rim and don't have too much air in the tube.

Exactly! …but the problem starting at the valve, is that the valve takes up space, and prevents the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim!

If you start opposite the valve, then there's nothing to obstruct the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim; you can then work the bead onto the rim, working towards the valve from either direction, so that when you get to the difficult bit (near the valve) the tight part is getting the bead over the edge of the rim and at that point has nothing to do with the valve…

- Wil

As a Mechanic, I have always started at the valve and in 99% of my tire repairs at the shop have never needed any assist to get the tire bead onto the rim. There are combinations of tires and wheels where you need a little assist, and in those cases I've used a Park Pro Tire lever to get things to match up.

We also INSTRUCT our customers using this same method in our Flat Tire Clinics that we have monthly. Our success rate with our customers being able to mount their own tires, tubes, on their own rims is way better that 80%. Many feel that they could never do this by themselves.

Still, on any given day there is a few flat repairs to be done, and that's easy money.

Exactly! …but the problem starting at the valve, is that the valve takes up space, and prevents the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim!

If you start opposite the valve, then there's nothing to obstruct the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim; you can then work the bead onto the rim, working towards the valve from either direction, so that when you get to the difficult bit (near the valve) the tight part is getting the bead over the edge of the rim and at that point has nothing to do with the valve…

- Wil

Please refer to post #25:


I always start at the valve. I have never failed to complete any tire install.

Exactly! …but the problem starting at the valve, is that the valve takes up space, and prevents the bead from getting right down into the center of the rim!

Not if you push the valve stem in a little so that the bead can get underneath it.

Not if you push the valve stem in a little so that the bead can get underneath it.

Yup! Seat the bead with the fat part of the tube, where the valve is, first, then work around t' the opposite side, and dismount conversely.

Pushing the valve stem up a bit is critical! At the last bit, as per OP's picture, I hold the rim with my toes, and run finger around to be sure the bead is off the riser at the edge of the rim, then ease 'er over.

The wipe of spit on that last bit usually does it, such that tire iron is not necessary. However, I've found my front tire works around unless I use the thicker cloth type rimstrips (I use the lightweight ones on the back, which gets braking and "awesome" power...), which makes it harder to mount/dismount the tire; there is less room!

Don't forget to wet the last bit!

Around here, when the puncture vine has had a "good" year (like 2006, yikes!! '07 wasn't so bad), one simply must be proficient in tire & tube maintenance at roadside and trailside! ...ask cccorlew

We Don't Need No Stinking Levers! (http://www.teamestrogen.com/articles/asa_levers.asp)

Solved my problems.

We Don't Need No Stinking Levers! (http://www.teamestrogen.com/articles/asa_levers.asp)

Solved my problems.

Great link, makes me want to practice changing tires!

Hah! It's because they're Michelins. I use Continentals on two of my bikes and they're a breeze to install. The Celeste Michelin Axials on my Bianchi on the other hand...

Hmmm, I've had a terrible time installing Conti Attack/Force onto Campy Eurus wheels. I've since heard that Campy wheels are typically very close to tolerance on the diameter so it's harder to generate any slack.

1. Make sure that the tire is seated all the way around.
2. Take a break. Let the tire (and your fingers) relax a little.

"…I always start opposite the valve, and work around from both sides to finish at the valve.

Just think about it for a moment; if you start at the valve, the bead of the tyre won't sit as low in the rim because the valve will be in the way; starting from opposite the valve, will make it easier to get the bead as low in the rim as possible, thus making it easier to get the bead over the rest of the rim. "

I dont usually post to these things but this tip helped me so much. theories aside.

I would rather have tires that are too tight than too loose.

To get the last few inches of a truly nasty tire/rim combination, a VAR tire-jack works great. And they are very lightweight - so tossing one in your kit is easy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VAR-Super-Tyre-Tire-Tool-New_W0QQitemZ260452233603QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca429b183&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

'TIRE BEAD JACK'..............Check out the bottom of the page.


http://www.koolstop.com/Accessories/index.php


Never met a tire too tough to tame with a 'Tire Bead Jack'.


I like the tool next to it- the Fork Spreader. "Spreads rear fork stays". For those, I suppose with the rare rear fork... :p

I know this thread is long dead but for those searching the forums... if you have a tight fitting tire, like I did with an old Continental wire bead tire, try getting a cup of really soapy water and covering the rim and tire where it's tight, and the ends of the levers with.
I was trying to fit a tire for over an hour and it was impossibly tight in the last 2 or 3 inches. Read on the forum that someone suggested soap, and it worked, so try it!