Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - KHS Green for an Uberclyde

I am a bit of a lurker in these forums partly because that is how I am and also because this is a really fun place to lurk (I Have Learned So MUCH!!). But, now I really could use some advice on a major purchase(a new bike) and some planned upgrades. I have been looking for/researching a bike for a while now and I am very interested in the KHS Green http://www.khsbicycles.com/09_green_07.htm (although I have heard that there are some problems with availability). I am around 375lbs and plan the following upgrades from the start:

1. drop handlebars with appropriate brakes in 44cm to 46cm
2. rebuild of wheelset with existing 36H hubs and new Deep V rims and triple butted spokes (maybe in a cross 4 pattern)
3. Brooks B-67 or B-73 saddle or Sportourer saddle if I decide to cheap out :D

I plan to commute about 2-3 miles each way on the bike (all paved, all relatively flat) and do some fun/exercise MUP (also paved) rides with the bike and I would like to know if anyone thinks that the bikes and/or the upgrades are a good idea for what I would need in a bike. I am especially nervous about the 36H wheelset, even though I have heard very good things about the strength and durability of Deep V's for clydes. Thanks in advance for any and all advice. Take care out there and Happy New Year everyone!

Given your riding plans, don't sweat the deep V's, they'll hold you just fine :D Just watch the spoke tension and keep the tires inflated properly. Learn how to "ride light", as in absorb shocks with your legs and pick your path. Use quality spokes and all will be well. :D

Lurkers are good, posters are great! Good to know that the folks here are getting good information out to you :) .

Don't be shy, though. We're here to cheer you on and sympathise as needed!

East Hill

I am a bit of a lurker in these forums partly because that is how I am and also because this is a really fun place to lurk (I Have Learned So MUCH!!). But, now I really could use some advice on a major purchase(a new bike) and some planned upgrades. I have been looking for/researching a bike for a while now and I am very interested in the KHS Green http://www.khsbicycles.com/09_green_07.htm (although I have heard that there are some problems with availability). I am around 375lbs and plan the following upgrades from the start:

1. drop handlebars with appropriate brakes in 44cm to 46cm
2. rebuild of wheelset with existing 36H hubs and new Deep V rims and triple butted spokes (maybe in a cross 4 pattern)
3. Brooks B-67 or B-73 saddle or Sportourer saddle if I decide to cheap out :D

I plan to commute about 2-3 miles each way on the bike (all paved, all relatively flat) and do some fun/exercise MUP (also paved) rides with the bike and I would like to know if anyone thinks that the bikes and/or the upgrades are a good idea for what I would need in a bike. I am especially nervous about the 36H wheelset, even though I have heard very good things about the strength and durability of Deep V's for clydes. Thanks in advance for any and all advice. Take care out there and Happy New Year everyone!

While at 375, the most efficient place to drop bike weight is "the Engine", Hi-Ten steel is HEAVY. The best steel frames are Chromaloy. A good Chromaloy frame, can still be good, after 40 years, and they are a lot lighter then Hi-ten, and not that much heavier then AL, Ti or CF, typically if a CF frame is 2lbs, an AL one is 3lbs and Chromaloy is 4lbs, Hi ten is closer to 20lbs, and is no stronger. While it's double the weight of CF, it realistically means that a 16lb steel bike is a 14lb CF one, and a 30lb one of Hi-ten steel.....

Now the real issue, is where do you want to see yourself in 3-5 years, if it's getting your Emeritis certificate, after a 2000 miles plus year and using a couple of centuries to get there, then you will be replacing that bike fairly quickly. So investing a lot of money on upgrades, may not be the best way to go.... It's not that uncommon, to really improve your riding ability. In 2005 I rode about 20km (one for every year since I had stopped riding in 1985). In 2006 I rode maybe 500km, in 2007 I rode over 2000km, this year I want to see the far side of 3000km. In 2011 when I turn 50, I want to ride 5000km.

I can't believe I just wrote that:eek:, holy cow, don't know whether I'm more shocked at the 5000 or the 50, 50 year old guys aren't supposed to do stuff like that are they? It means I will be in better shape at 50 then I was at 30.... In spite of the fact I have a couple of Ti plates in my left arm....

+1 on the frame material. High Tensile steel fork and frame are going to make for a stiff, rough riding bike that will be on the heavy side. It will also rust faster if any scratch or nick breaks through the paint. All this might not be a problem, but I am surprised that KHS is bringing in such a bike.

I would set your sights just slightly higher and look into a bike that will exceed what you think you can do. There are many bikes that will fit you and give you good service.

Chris

Thanks everyone for the good, sound advice. I have been more than impressed by the postings and accomplishments of Wogster and Tom (Whoa!) for a while now. I agree that Hi Ten is going to be turly heavy but I just visited my local KHS dealer (which just happens to be my fav local bike shop) and the Green retails for $269 and with the mods, I will be able to get out under eight bills (including a pair of Schwalbe Marathons). Not to mention that all of the mods could be transferred to another frame if I so desire. I also love the color, frame, and minimal styling of the bike but, I don't want to get stuck with a dog that's too heavy to enjoy. But to be perfectly hones if the bike seems heavy, that definitely ain't on account of the frame and components ;)

I also have a cro mo mountain bike that I dislike because the things that I need to feel solid, don't (fork is suspension, wheels creak, seat is a serial rapist, cranks are definitely not made for me to stand on, and the pedals are plastic). It was given to me by a dear friend that would like to see me get into cycling and it has wetted my appetite but, I really think that the Green might be a good firt for me at a price that wouldn't take me forever to save up for and could be an awesome commuter at the place I'm at now with an eye towards transferring the stuff I like to another frame some pounds down the road.

On the other hand, $800 is a substantial sum of money to me and I have gotten so much good info from B-Fer's in the past few months, so I welcome and truly appreciate any and all opinion/feedback. Thanks guys, the clydes and athenas in this forums are my heros. I will be reading and considering carefully what you all have to say.

I'm just glad you got the Cycling Bug! It changed my life for the better, that's for sure :D

The KHS won't be a bad starter bike, it's a lot better than my starter bike was. ;) I must warn you though that you will quickly outgrow it, stylewise. Your capabilities on a bike will grow a lot faster than you realize.

OTOH, when you are ready to move up in the world, you'll also have a far better idea of what your riding needs will be, so you're probably as well off to start this way, and when you get another, just get another whole bike and you'll have the KHS as a back up, or a loaner bike if you have a friend that thinks about getting in to cycling. :D

This bike seems to be a relatively cheap bike made for someone to toodle around town on occasionally. You seem to be interested in more than that. If you have $800 total to spend, consider a used touring bike, like a Trek 520, or Fuji, or Cannondale T800. You can find them on Ebay all the time. Also look at a Windsor touring bike from BikesDirect.

The reason I suggest a touring bike is that they're usually built strong, which is good for us Clydesdales, and are good bikes for commuting and weekend rides, as well as for touring. They usually have cantilever or V-brakes, 36 spoke wheels, and room for wider tires, which is good for Clydesdales, as well as for occasional off-road riding. They will have wide-range gears, although you might need to swap for a lower-range crankset if you ever go touring. You might be able to get a good touring bike and have enough money left for a Brooks saddle and one or two other mods.

There are other touring bikes. One would be a Surly LHT, but it seems to be more difficult to find one that's much less than new (They're only $900 new, which, to me, is a TERRIFIC deal.)

Just a thought.