Foo - Need a good rust remover.

I was negligent. My ASP baton which I carry with me most places seems to have rusted on the inside. I hadn't looked inside of it in a few weeks, and today when I did an inspection to make sure it was in good working order I noticed it didn't want to open properly. So I took it apart, and :eek:, it's rusted to hell inside. Doesn't look like pitting, just moderate to heavy internal surface rust.

I've got it soaking in Top Engine Cleaner right now, but I don't think that will totally do it. That's more of a carbon remover. I need a really aggressive liquid rust remover that will take absolutely all of the rust without ever having to brush it off. I just want to soak it, then maybe even powerwash it off if necessary.

Any suggestions for a really aggressive liquid rust remover that won't damage the metal?

Oxalic acid, aka wood bleach. C & Vers use it all the time. Do a search...

East Hill

Oxalic acid. It's the bomb on rust.

I didn't know you could take an ASP apart! The only troubles I had with mine was I would extend it too forcefully and it would be hard to get compacted again.

I don't know, but I'm guessing it might not work right again even if you get the rust off.

Too bad you didn't get the electroless baton. Rust is a ....., as you well know, living in Michigan.

I've had it 2 years, and never any rust problems. Never saw a need for electroless. It's like shooting corrosive ammo, you just keep it clean.

Mariner, luckily the locking parts of the shaft seem to be pretty much rust free. Plus, if they weren't, I'd probably just take my flaring tool to it, or in some other way readjust it. And by the way, the trick to closing them is to hit them on cement. Either that or get a ball bearing operated Monadnock.

About that Oxalic acid, I'm guessing that would be available at the hardware store. I'll have to get some tomorrow.

The stuff I got was at lowes and it was wood deck cleaner. It's a liquid and I diluted it to soak my last bike. Just look at the label for ingredients.

Yea, I know about whacking the ASP on Cement. I would have to really give it a good hit to get it to compact. I got to take ASP training where we thumped some guys in the big red padded suits. Man that was fun.

Thanks everybody. I'll head to Ace in the morning.

And I hate the guys in the big red padded suits. You hit em with all you got and they keep right on coming.

sandpaper?
or
http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Remover-Comparison-Chart-W22C2.aspx

Laundry soda and a auto battery charger. Just takes the rust off without damaging the metal. Be careful to do something to prevented rusting when it gets out of the bath as it will start to rerust right away without some protection.

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL for your anode. I'm not sure if the link I posted says that. Stainless cause some sort of reaction that makes bad.:(

we use laquar thinner to clean off rust before we paint parts

Just get a new asp.


Or two. :D

Naval jelly. Best stuff I ever used. Also requires the least amount of elbow grease as well. :)

AWww crap. See Mich?

I know that whenever Danno speaks it's like gold to you...



AND WHO SAID NAVAL JELLY BEFORE YOU EVEN STARTED THIS THREAD????

See? I knew what I was talking about. And Danno sealed it with his post.




You never listen to me. :(

(thanks, Danno! ;))

But, the one thing I was and still am concerned with is that Naval Jelly sounds like a jelly, which could have a hard time getting into unreachable spots.

Use a straw and blow.

Does one have to use their own navel jelly? I don't have any jelly in there, so I'd have to borrow some...

*grabs X's finger and guides it into Jon's belly button*

*uses his ninjitsukarate skills to escape the situation and vanish into the night*

You're welcome Siu! You see... rust is an oxidation reaction and to counter it, you need a basic reduction. The problem with oxalic acid compounds is that after they eat up the rust, they'll continue to eat away the good metal as well. With naval jelly, it'll only eat the rust and stop, leaving you a nice protective iron-phosphate finish. You can even put it on fresh metal or paint without worry. I've found it even works on super-tough rust, such as rusty stainless steels (yes, even stainless will rust if you have your boat out on the ocean).

Anyway, here's a source for it if your local hardware or auto-parts place doesn't have it: Permatex Naval Jelly rust dissolver (http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-14378-72-permatex-naval-jelly-rust-dissolver-12-oz-spray-82138.aspx). Comes in a spray bottle to get into tough-to-reach places. :) Similar product is DuPont Quick-Prep or Sherwin-Williams Metal-Prep.

Thanks again peeps.

I didn't know it would work that well. 1 10 minute application of the Naval Jelly, and its shiny as new. I'm gonna try it on my friends rusted out Mosin Nagant next.

Pssht.

What. EVAH. *puts up palm of hand* :rolleyes:

Talk to the hand Mich.

When you're done, slosh some POR15 (http://www.por15.com) or other rust bonder in there to seal it up so it doesn't re-rust. If you use something like that, it doesn't have to be spotlessly clean of rust unless you're caring alot about the surface finish.

If I put something in to seal it, it wouldn't lock open properly. The trick is to keep putting petrolium based degreaser in it. Rem Clean keeps it rust free and working properly, but recently I was too negligent to put it in.

I put it back in Top Engine Cleaner, and that got all the rest of the Naval Jelly off.