"The 33"-Road Bike Racing - Way to run Shimano Wh wheels with Campy?

Hey, I was wondering if people knew if it was possible to convert Shimano wheels to be able to be ridden with a campy drivetrain aside from using a conversion cassette.

shiftmate http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.htm

http://jtekengineering.com/Images/ShiftMate/shiftmate.jpg

shiftmate http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.htm

http://jtekengineering.com/Images/ShiftMate/shiftmate.jpg
Ya know, I still don't get how those work logically. It looks just like the Rollamajig on my bike, but it doesn't seem to change the indexing or cable pull. It just makes shifting more smooth and easier to adjust on my all Shimano drivetrain.

I believe the pulley is not drilled in the center, so it results in a changed cable pull output for a given cable pull input. It could be that it's not round too.

I read somewhere on Sheldon's site that you can clamp the der cable in a different orientation to correct this too. I can't recall if it was to adapt different Shimano, or Campy to Shimano though...

Ya know, I still don't get how those work logically. It looks just like the Rollamajig on my bike, but it doesn't seem to change the indexing or cable pull. It just makes shifting more smooth and easier to adjust on my all Shimano drivetrain.

It's magic. Or it could be what watterrockets said. But I like magic better.

Ya know, I still don't get how those work logically. It looks just like the Rollamajig on my bike, but it doesn't seem to change the indexing or cable pull. It just makes shifting more smooth and easier to adjust on my all Shimano drivetrain.

There are two drums of two different diameters machined into the pulley. The cable does one full loop around the pulley and crosses from one diameter drum to the other (you can see this if you pull up their installation instructions from their website). I think that the Campy cogs are spaced a bit further apart than Shimano. So to change the pull of the shifter, the cable starts the loop on the large diameter drum and ends the loop on the small diameter drum. One increment shift will cause the drum to rotate an increment, but because the cable exits on a smaller diameter than it enters, the amount of cable pulled is lessened and the derailleur moves a smaller increment than normal.

...

I read somewhere on Sheldon's site that you can clamp the der cable in a different orientation to correct this too. I can't recall if it was to adapt different Shimano, or Campy to Shimano though...

I think this is from 10 speed Campy to 9 speed Shimano.

There are two drums of two different diameters machined into the pulley.

http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/b/b5/L_c295eaa31c251b9c3e10f11068d2eccf.jpg

If you need a vote of confidence, the Shiftmate works really well, in my experience...I had one on my cross bike this past season and it survived plenty of dust, gravel, mud, twigs, and crashing without a glitch. I ran Campy 10 shifters, Campy FD, but a Shimano rear derailleur (cheaper than Campy) and cassette.

And changing the clamping orientation doesn't really work (or at least I've never gotten it to work well). You give up one gear (it'll get you from C10 to S9), and the shifting isn't all that great, whereas with the Shiftmate you'll never notice a thing.

I looked at the instructions, and that makes much more sense. Thank you.

Try to run the cassette with the drivetrain first. It works quite well most of the time. I've been running an Ultegra cassette on my TT bike with no loss in performance for 2 years.