Fifty Plus (50+) - First repair attempt...sigh

I decided to try fixing the FD, which would not allow me to shift out of the small ring. After fiddling with the adjustment knob by the shifters, which produced no result, I looked closer at the cage itself.

It turns out it's out of alignment. It will push the chain to the middle ring, but once I let go, it's hitting the chain and that causes the chain to return to the small ring.

So, I tried adjusting it. I found the way to loosen it from the seat tube, and tried moving it up or down, plus side to side. I learned I had to release the cable to do this, so I made several attempts at finding the sweet spot for the cage and then reattaching the cable, but I couldn't make a go of it.

I also learned that the shifter knob that would bring the chain back down from the larger to the smaller ring doesn't do anything. It doesn't seem to produce any tension on the cable whatsoever.

After twenty or so attempts, I packed it in for the day. It's frustrating because I can sense that the LBS could probably fix this in about two minutes.

FWIW, here's a few pictures. I'm not sure how much you can tell from them.

I managed to get the FD back to the same position I started with (which I consider a minor victory -- it's not worse than before). What am I either doing wrong or not understanding?

http://www.pbase.com/digitalgee/image/91501174.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/digitalgee/image/91501165.jpg

http://http://www.pbase.com/digitalgee/image/91501180.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/digitalgee/image/91501186.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/digitalgee/image/91501180.jpg

Go to the Shimano website, they have manuals for all their equipment in pdf format. All the FD work the same way so use a different one if you cannot find your specific model.

As a rule of thumb you want the FD cable to be fully relaxed before touching the FD, it means that the chain should be on the small chainring. Position the FD parallel to the chainring, its height should allow about a 1 to 2 mm clearance when the FD moves over the large chainring. Adjust the inner limit screw on the FD so that the chain doesn't fall between the small ring and the BB. Rotate the knob at the shifter clockwise until stuck against the shifter, release the cable bolt on the FD and pull the cable tight before retightening the bolt. Then play with the adjustment knob and the FD limit screws to fine tune.

The FD cable seems rusty. I would change it.

Here's my take DG: You're really good at what you do. The LBS had people who are really good at what they do, so make more money and enjoy life more by focusing on your strengths. Let the LBS do the job in two minutes and fuggetabout doing any but the most basic repairs yourself. It will save you enormous amounts of time and frustration and you'll support a local business that could use some support.

I know this goes against the grain of the way many people think.

Lube and clean the cable track under the bottom bracket. Clean and lube the dérailleur. Simple Green or similar and most any light oil will be fine

It MAY be the angle of the photo, but the outer cage should only clear the big ring by 1/8-1/4 inch. Higher will make it harder to push it up on the big and middle rings.

It also looks like the inner cage is too far inboard. Shouldn't need more than 1/8 inch.

So, First loosen the cable clamp on the dérailleur - click the downshift lever several times while pulling on cable under the down tube - this is to make sure cable has released tension AND makes sure you really are in low. THEN while pulling on the cable shift up- to make sure the lever really works and pulls cable. If it isn't, then you could try some gentle cleaning of the levers with Simple Green or similar non-petro cleaner. Make sure cable slide smoothly through the housing at this point.

Assuming the levers work - make sure the dérailleur is correctly positioned on seat tube - you can swing it up to check clearance onto big ring. Cage should be either parallel with rings or the rear about 1/16 or 1/8" out.

Back in the cable adjustment on the lever. at most leave a turn out from fully in. Make sure lever is in low.

Adjust inner limit screw. Pull on cable with pliers while tightening cable clamp. Have someone hold the rear wheel up while working the lever checking for operation.

While your hands are dirty and the tools are out, it might be a good time to clean the rear dérailleur also.

My Park Repair Book warns me that FD adjustments can be tricky and frequently require trying one setting, adjusting again, and testing again. It took me a few attempts to get it right on my Trek 820. And it sounds like yours was much worse than mine to being with.

So I would not be terribly discouraged by this attempt. While I'm sure this adjustment becomes much easier over practice, and is relatively simple for many, it is not a Level 1 degree of difficulty first repair.

Here's my take DG: You're really good at what you do. The LBS had people who are really good at what they do, so make more money and enjoy life more by focusing on your strengths. Let the LBS do the job in two minutes and fuggetabout doing any but the most basic repairs yourself. It will save you enormous amounts of time and frustration and you'll support a local business that could use some support.

I know this goes against the grain of the way many people think.

This was exactly my thinking when I started cycling, and made the conscious decision to not become a bicyle mechanic beyond the basic stuff you need out on the road...and I'm very mechanical in nature.

But, as JT says, most people think differently.

Don't feel too bad about it, DG. I'm not to shabby at mechanical fixes, and I'd rather try to get a rear der. adjusted correctly than a front der. any day!! It's easier for me to do it than explain how to do it, but these guys are a good place to start:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75

Here's my take DG: You're really good at what you do. The LBS had people who are really good at what they do, so make more money and enjoy life more by focusing on your strengths. Let the LBS do the job in two minutes and fuggetabout doing any but the most basic repairs yourself. It will save you enormous amounts of time and frustration and you'll support a local business that could use some support.

I know this goes against the grain of the way many people think.

I and my people fix stuff for a living. Complicated non-standard stuff, some of it. When my bike needs work, it goes to the shop. This does not go against the grain of the way I think. It does go against the grain of the way my son thinks. Three months after buying his first adult bike, he built his second one (full suspension MTB) from parts he mostly bought off e-bay with a few he went to the LBS to get. Different strokes for different folks. Focus on your strengths is the gold here. Well said sir.

DeeGee, it's just an adjustment or two. First, downshift all the way in front and undo the cable at the derailleur. That adjuster up by the handlebars? Center it in its range. Then adjust the lower limit screw on the derailleur so that the cage is centered on the small ring. You'll know you have the right screw when you can move the cage by turning the screw. While you're at it, you can check the upper limit screw by moving the cage by hand and adjusting the screw so that the cage moves far enough but not too far, to shift onto the big ring.

At that point, make sure the cable moves freely in the housing by sliding the housing up and down a bit. If it binds, spend a few bucks and get a new cable. Replacing the cable is more involved, but not hard. C'mon back if you have to do that. Assuming the cable works OK, pull all the slack out of it with pliers while you clamp it back to the derailleur. Make sure the cable is in the groove or it may not shift right.

Lube and clean the cable track under the bottom bracket. Clean and lube the dérailleur. Simple Green or similar and most any light oil will be fine

It MAY be the angle of the photo, but the outer cage should only clear the big ring by 1/8-1/4 inch. Higher will make it harder to push it up on the big and middle rings.

It also looks like the inner cage is too far inboard. Shouldn't need more than 1/8 inch.

So, First loosen the cable clamp on the dérailleur - click the downshift lever several times while pulling on cable under the down tube - this is to make sure cable has released tension AND makes sure you really are in low. THEN while pulling on the cable shift up- to make sure the lever really works and pulls cable. If it isn't, then you could try some gentle cleaning of the levers with Simple Green or similar non-petro cleaner. Make sure cable slide smoothly through the housing at this point.

Assuming the levers work - make sure the dérailleur is correctly positioned on seat tube - you can swing it up to check clearance onto big ring. Cage should be either parallel with rings or the rear about 1/16 or 1/8" out.

Back in the cable adjustment on the lever. at most leave a turn out from fully in. Make sure lever is in low.

Adjust inner limit screw. Pull on cable with pliers while tightening cable clamp. Have someone hold the rear wheel up while working the lever checking for operation.

While your hands are dirty and the tools are out, it might be a good time to clean the rear dérailleur also.

+1

Lube and clean the cable track under the bottom bracket. Clean and lube the dérailleur. Simple Green or similar and most any light oil will be fine

It MAY be the angle of the photo, but the outer cage should only clear the big ring by 1/8-1/4 inch. Higher will make it harder to push it up on the big and middle rings.

It also looks like the inner cage is too far inboard. Shouldn't need more than 1/8 inch.

So, First loosen the cable clamp on the dérailleur - click the downshift lever several times while pulling on cable under the down tube - this is to make sure cable has released tension AND makes sure you really are in low. THEN while pulling on the cable shift up- to make sure the lever really works and pulls cable. If it isn't, then you could try some gentle cleaning of the levers with Simple Green or similar non-petro cleaner. Make sure cable slide smoothly through the housing at this point.

Assuming the levers work - make sure the dérailleur is correctly positioned on seat tube - you can swing it up to check clearance onto big ring. Cage should be either parallel with rings or the rear about 1/16 or 1/8" out.

Back in the cable adjustment on the lever. at most leave a turn out from fully in. Make sure lever is in low.

Adjust inner limit screw. Pull on cable with pliers while tightening cable clamp. Have someone hold the rear wheel up while working the lever checking for operation.

While your hands are dirty and the tools are out, it might be a good time to clean the rear dérailleur also.

Plus one...slug in the head!!! :)

I can see two issues. The FD is too high - it should clear the big ring by the height of the chainring teeth - at most. Second, the two rails should be roughly parallel with the chainrings.
When the shifter is set for the small chainring you should adjust the cable to center the FD on that chainring.
In addition, there are two limit screws on the FD. They limit the movement to keep the chain from falling off the small and large chainrings. If the one labeled H isn't set right it can prevent shifting to the large ring.

I feel for you, DG, I've had some miserable times adjusting dérailleurs. Setting up a two/three ring compatible STI shifter for a two ring was a real trial.

I want to thank everyone who's taken the time to give me step by step suggestions. But I'm going to take the other advice -- go with my strengths and turn over to others that which I find confusing and vexing. I want to ride, dammit!

So I'll take the Peugeot over to the LBS and have them fix the FD, replace the cable, and while they're at it, check the brakes (which I think are actually fine). I'll purchase two new tires and some tubes, and install them myself because that's something I know how to do.

Then, I'll hang on to the Fuji for a while, and when a repair stand comes up on Craigslist I'll work on it. Nothing to lose, and maybe a bike to flip or give to someone in need.

This is still all about having a trail bike for 15-20 trail rides a year, after all. In my first three years of riding (almost) the only mechanical issues I've had on the road are flats, and a time or two when a chain came off, and I can handle those.

From experience when I added some 90 degree angles to the cables at the brifters I put in new cables and had to change the cable housing from the stops to the brifters to clear a handle bar bag. Worked great.

Like robtown said. The FD looks way to high. You can also tweak the shifting by not lining up the FD with the chain rings. I would start with it parallel before going that route. An expensive set of repair manuals a friend of mine bought for over $ 100.00 I believe said that the FD should clear the large chain ring by the thickness of a dollar or a tad more. Really close tolerances on that high end stuff, I guess.

I want to thank everyone who's taken the time to give me step by step suggestions. But I'm going to take the other advice -- go with my strengths and turn over to others that which I find confusing and vexing. I want to ride, dammit!


My brother has given me much good advice through the years including this, which, to my mind is absolutely brilliant in its simplicity: "If you're doing what you don't want to do, you'll be doing what you don't want to do."

...So I'll take the Peugeot over to the LBS and have them fix the FD, replace the cable, and while they're at it, check the brakes (which I think are actually fine). I'll purchase two new tires and some tubes, and install them myself because that's something I know how to do.

Very wise, young grasshopper!:rolleyes:

BTW, Gary, fabulous photos, you old f-stop you. I like the do-what-you-do advice.

Lots of good advice here.............now mine.

Zinn............now..............there are pictures...with arrows...see jane run.

DG,

Personally, given my wifely auditor I couldn't afford to frequent my LBS. You may not require more skill besides knowing the location of a good LBS and being able to fix a flat tire. That means a patch kit and/or replacement tube in most cases + an air pump. A cell phone or a body like one of your beach ladies may suffice - if you're not off the main roads on a MUP.

Yeah, Thank goodness you have a nice camera, DG.

BTW, Gary, fabulous photos, you old f-stop you. I like the do-what-you-do advice.

That's what I thought when I saw the photos...geez, this guy can snap a photo.

Agree, go with your strength.

Trying to adjust a FD probably wasn't a good place to start your bike repair career. Its about the fiddliest job on a bike (and most bike adjustments are fiddly). You have to get the height and angle (yaw) EXACTLY right before setting the limit screws. Like someone else mentioned the instructions from Shimano are quite good.

You can take it to a bike shop but chances are good that they will do a half way (mono-buttocked as Sheldon would say) job of it. It can be adjusted it so it works perfectly on the stand but not well 100% of the time on the road. It has to be ridden and tweaked until its right and it appears to me that most shops are not willing to put the time in that is required. Dropping chains is commonplace on the group rides I go on and invariably when I ask the rider they've taken the bike to one or more high end shops who all swear the adjustment is perfect. I say, if the adjustment was perfect why did it just throw the chain at the bottom of the gnarliest hill in the area?

Dee Gee.I just put together a road bike to give my son for Christmas. Like you, this was my first attempt at being a bike "wrench!" Everything went fine except for two things: the brakes and front derailleur. The brakes were simple. I had ordered normal brakes when the frame required "long pull." I just replaced them and they worked fine. The front deraileur was a bear though and I spent about a half a day trying to get it adjusted. I studied Shimano's website, Park's website, Sheldon Brown's website along with Zinn's book and two DVD's to no avail. I finally gave up and took it to the LBS. To my surprise, the first mechanic that checked it couldn't get it to shift properly either. He took the bike to the head mechanic who had problems with it too. He said the chain line was off a little but that was normal for a triple. He finally removed the "required" spacer and replaced it with one about 1mm thinner and everything worked OK. The build took a long time as I was in no hurry and did it at work when I wasn't busy but the learning experience was immense and very rewarding. I signed up for advanced maintenance classes with the LBS and am really looking forward to it....Ned

White bikes don't have those problems! :)

Looking at that crankset- Think you may have a better bike than even I think you have. Check it out but is it a Deore LX crankset? If it is- I think it will be the one I have been hunting for- for about 5 years. This is not a an MTB compact crankset and is able to take larger rings than those used today.

Will agree that the FD looks as though it is set too high- If you don't feel confident- Get to the LBS and get them to sort it.

Awesome photo's

500 x 800 pixels and only 101 kb

Wonderful DG! Those FD's can be a real problem. I really messed the one on my MTB up big time by trying to adjust the barrels as I climbed up a hill. Not good

Here, DG... come over here and I'll tell you a bedtime story that is guaranteed to make you feel better. That's right, bring your blanket.

I bought new carpet. It was bad. Got the replacement carpet. It was bad. All my stuff in my studio and basement has been in my garage on top of the bikes and the tools for 2 months.

I finally undug the bikes tonight, because I'm swapping my nitto noodle bar for some stuff, and I have to take it off VERY carefully, because the guy I'm trading with doesn't want it scratched.

So, first off I slice my finger open with the exacto blade as I'm taking off the rubber tape. Then, I can't find either a wire cutter or a pliers to remove the derailleur cables, because my garage looks like a war zone. Finally hacked the cable apart, and now I'm totally stymied by the bar end shifters. I can't find a diagram of them anywhere. I have no idea how to take them off...they could be glued on for all I know.

Feel better, Sweet Pea? I see you're yawning in contentment. You will have days like this, too, but not tonight. Sweet dreams, little sailor!

DG, are you going to attempt a bottom bracket repair on your 2nd repair attempt?

Or perhaps build a wheel?

You will have days like this, too, but not tonight. Sweet dreams, little sailor!

http://cache.viewimages.com/xc/3167930.jpg?v=1&c=ViewImages&k=2&d=41CAE2DF95708CE2A8FDB9D7710192ECA55A1E4F32AD3138

DG, are you going to attempt a bottom bracket repair on your 2nd repair attempt?

Or perhaps build a wheel?

I think I'll build up a complete bike from scratch, using ordinary materials I can find around the house.

http://www.first-to-fly.com/History%20Images/Wright%20St%20Clair%20bike.jpg

http://cache.viewimages.com/xc/3167930.jpg?v=1&c=ViewImages&k=2&d=41CAE2DF95708CE2A8FDB9D7710192ECA55A1E4F32AD3138

Yer image didn't come through. I'll bet it was funny. I'm shivering in anticipation.

Finally got the bar ends shifters figured out, but I lack the hex wrench needed to take it off.

Keeping your tools organized is very important. I'm always a mess with hex wrenches, because I don't have a organization method, and I always have to try a few before I find the right one.

I think I'll build up a complete bike from scratch, using ordinary materials I can find around the house.



Sometimes building a house from materials you find on your bike turns out better...

I wasn't sure where to put this, and I didn't want to start a whole thread, but I'm trying to take some nitto bars our of a technomic stem. I'm ready to pull it out, but the guy I'm trading with doesn't want it scratched. It's in there really tight. I've taken the screw completely out, and I've tried prying the stem apart, but it's really really solid and either I'm not using the right tool or I don't have the strength.

I have a wonder bar (I actually made the freudian slip of asking the hardware store guy where the Wonder Bras were!) but I don't know if I should use it, or how. Maybe I should put a thick bit of grease on it? Would that help protect it?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to scratch the pretty part.

I wasn't sure where to put this, and I didn't want to start a whole thread, but I'm trying to take some nitto bars our of a technomic stem. I'm ready to pull it out, but the guy I'm trading with doesn't want it scratched. It's in there really tight. I've taken the screw completely out, and I've tried prying the stem apart, but it's really really solid and either I'm not using the right tool or I don't have the strength.

I have a wonder bar (I actually made the freudian slip of asking the hardware store guy where the Wonder Bras were!) but I don't know if I should use it, or how. Maybe I should put a thick bit of grease on it? Would that help protect it?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to scratch the pretty part.

So you chose MY thread about messing up my first repair job? Sigh.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to scratch the pretty part.

Sorry to say, yes it probably will get scratched. Those bars and stem are a super tight fit.

The "tradee" in this deal should know that. You're not a miracle worker. A scratch or scratches are cosmetic. If he wants a perfect bar, suggest that he buy a new one. :)

One thing you could try is wrapping one side of the bar with the thinnest electrician's tape you can find, and try to removed the bar on that side.

Then, I can't find either a wire cutter or a pliers to remove the derailleur cables, because my garage looks like a war zone. Finally hacked the cable apart,

:eek::eek::eek::eek:

If you get the .pdf file from Shimano it will go through the right adjustment procedure, etc. But I agree with some of the prior posts - step one is to get it positioned on the seat tube right (it looks like the FD is mounted a bit too high, so that there is too much vertical gap between the bottom of the FD's curved arms, and the top edge of the large chain ring. Then, pull the cable out of its housing and make sure it is clean, rust-free, lubed, etc.. If the cable isn't moving freely then the subsequent adjustments aren't going to matter.

Don't let having trouble adjusting a front derailleur convince you that you can't learn to do simple bike mechanic work. I still sometimes have trouble with them. That is one of the more finicky parts of a bicycle.

Keep plugging away, fixing what you need to fix as it comes up.

DG,

I spent 4 hours last night trying to put studded tires on my electric assist MTB. It has two chains on the rear, a chain guard, and a Nexus internal hub w/drum brake. Disconnecting the gear control cable was HECK! It turns out one of the wire strands had come undone and it unwound inside the cable housing. That seized up the cable and didn't allow it to provide the slack I needed.

I probably offended the bike maintenance gods by feeling I had progressed past the newbie stage. My advice is to conquer your repair phobia - but always remain humble.

I probably offended the bike maintenance gods by feeling I had progressed past the newbie stage. My advice is to conquer your repair phobia - but always remain humble.

Today I took the wheels off the Fuji and relegated it to a storage unit. I was surprised that the bike has no quick release on the rear wheel. Anyway, as I fiddled with the bike, I was able to see that it "looks" pretty simple to work on -- but it's still going into storage for a while.

When I dig it out and start flailing away, I'm going to take all the components off, one at a time, keeping all the parts for each system in a different plastic box. Then I'm going to clean everything as thoroughly as I can, before attempting to reassemble the bike. I've got absolutely nothing to lose -- even my pride -- and I'll have as much time as it takes. I don't even want the bike anymore, actually, in terms of riding it. It's become a collection of parts and it will be interesting to see if I can make them fly in formation again. If I do get it cleaned up and running again, I will find a someone who really needs a bike and donate it to them. The Fuji will be all about figuring out how things work and starting a tool collection.

But not right now. Later, 'tater! :D

I'm still waiting for your sailor boy image.

Update: The wonderbar worked great to spread the stem. It was a little wonderbar. It still has scratches where it was clamped in, but I don't think I did it during the removal.

I'm still waiting for your sailor boy image.

Update: The wonderbar worked great to spread the stem. It was a little wonderbar. It still has scratches where it was clamped in, but I don't think I did it during the removal.

A full-size Wonderbar by Stanley is a wonderful tool but not the right tool for your job. Glad to hear the little wonderbar worked. Smaller ones do come in handy.

Sometimes building a house from materials you find on your bike turns out better...

(picture of bike tire table)

1) I want that table!

2) Paulie, I've been meaning to ask: where do you find all these crazy-***** pictures you're always posting?

Deeg: I can't add much to the good advice you've already gotten except for the well-worn truism that a DIY project invariably takes at least three times as long than a pro to do it. (EDIT) The "Fuji project" sounds like the way to go.

I'm currently in the midst of a complete teardown/overhaul/rebuild of my Craigslist Trek Antelope 820. Took two hours do figure out that the reason my rear wheel wouldn't turn smoothly no matter how nicely I adjusted the hub was a slightly deformed dust cap rubbing against the bearings when I tightened the cassette lockring. Hey, it beats cabin fever.

Wifes going to be out for a couple of hours so I can take the frame into the shower for washing!

2) Paulie, I've been meaning to ask: where do you find all these crazy-***** pictures you're always posting?


Such language from the second cousin, by marriage, of a great movie director!

Francis Ford Coppola, when asked about his cycling cousin at a recent film awards show, had this to say...

and now I'm totally stymied by the bar end shifters. I can't find a diagram of them anywhere. I have no idea how to take them off...they could be glued on for all I know.



I'm no expert - but the possible tool of choice is a 10 pound lump hammer. My maintenance colleagues call them 'small persuaders'

If it doesn't work, this message will autodestruct shortly after your shifters. Courage et bon chance!

Such language from the second cousin, by marriage, of a great movie director!

Francis Ford Coppola, when asked about his cycling cousin at a recent film awards show, had this to say...

And does he ever call?? Ask my advice about plot points or casting? Or even send a bottle of his vino for Christmas?

NO-O-O-O!

And he wonders why his latest flick is a flop...

Some tips and tricks with older MTB parts.

Your inner cable looks pretty bad. That should be replaced. If the housings are originals, get new ones too. Make sure that the housings are good quality, at least the same as the Originals.

Remove the old parts and set them aside. Work on the derailluer (FD) now. See if the stops for the triple are set properly. See if the "SWING" of the FD works. I've seen many of this vintage that have seized pivot points. Use something slightly heavier than a penetrating oil and lube each and every pivot. Make sure that the return spring also gets a good coat also.

If that works and the stops for the FD look correct the next thing is placement of the FD in the vertical plane in relation to the crank. The Park tool site says it best here, and others have mentioned that also.

Manually actuate the FD while the bike is either upside down or in a Stand. If it shifts fine now, we only have to ensure the shifter is working now.

The Shimano Pod shifters can get grimed up internally. I've seen too many of these thrown out and replaced due to lack of cleaning and lubrication. The only time I have EVER disassembled one was when I had to replace a broken thumb actuator. If you gotta go deeper than that, replace it!

My secret is to spray some WD-40 or heavier Spray lube like Break Free into the hole that the inner cable goes into. I also spray above and below each of the actuators and then allow it to soak in as I work on the FD. When I get the FD set and adjusted, I install the NEW Inner wire. At this point I have NOT installed the cable housings. I start actuating the shifter while holding onto the inner wire. You should have 3 crisp detents with the shifter pulling or releasing the same amount of cable with each click. If not, one of the internal detents is still dirty or a spring is still hanging up. Keep working the cable and shifter and see if it will free up. Spray a little more lube if needed and work it some more.

In most cases after a few sprays and a bit of work, you will get back to 3 crisp detents. I've seen bikes that I've done this too, work for a few more years. It was certainly worth the effort for the customer and it was more value for them also. Some shops would rather replace than diagnose these problems. In my time, I've found that these shifter pods are much more robust than folks give them credit. The only real failure I've seen has been due to abuse or crash damage, and in those cases, replacement becomes the only result.

Chris

Stepfam...

Why not look into a Shimano LX Treking crank set. They have a 48/36/26T triple chainrings. It's the same one that I use on my Clyde Bike.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore-FC-M572-Trekking-Crankset/dp/B000G7LV0U

Chris


Looking at that crankset- Think you may have a better bike than even I think you have. Check it out but is it a Deore LX crankset? If it is- I think it will be the one I have been hunting for- for about 5 years. This is not a an MTB compact crankset and is able to take larger rings than those used today.

Will agree that the FD looks as though it is set too high- If you don't feel confident- Get to the LBS and get them to sort it.

Stepfam...

Why not look into a Shimano LX Treking crank set. They have a 48/36/26T triple chainrings. It's the same one that I use on my Clyde Bike.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore-FC-M572-Trekking-Crankset/dp/B000G7LV0U

Chris

Or for something closer to the look and concept of the original, the Sugino XD (http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30&action=list&Category=181&brand=397&modelid=1099&type=T) is a good choice. Good old square taper BB.