Bicycle Mechanics - Nashbar crank puller -- noob question

I'm just starting to learn about taking care of my 1981 Miyata 610. Starting with a complete cleaning & greasing/lubing. I've got everything off of it but the cranks and headset. The headset I'm going to leave alone. The cranks are giving me trouble.

The cranks are branded Miyata on the outside, SR on the inside. I got a Nashbar crank puller in a tool kit. In the middle of the business end is something looking like a stovepipe hat. If that piece wasn't there, I could screw it into the crank. Has anyone used this tool--do I have to modify it in some way?

Feel free to laugh.

Mike

Withoud really knowing the particular Nashbar crank puller, nor the crankset you have, I can, however, tell you that there are TWO "hats" for crank pullers:
- Smaller one for the square-taper cranks/axle
- Wider fella for the Octalink cranks/axle

Some (most?) crank pullers come with both "hats", so they are usable for both cranksets.

This one?

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600099&subcategory=60001228&brand=&sku=20556&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Crank%2FBottom%20Bracket%2FPedal

The description mentions that it's compatible with both octa/isis and square taper so you probably need to reconfigure the tool (square taper needs the smaller head)

Sounds like from the description that the octalink adapter is built into the unit.

This maybe a silly question, but you realize that the tool has two parts right? Also make sure that there isn't a washer in the crank bolt hole.

This one?

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600099&subcategory=60001228&brand=&sku=20556&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Crank%2FBottom%20Bracket%2FPedal

The description mentions that it's compatible with both octa/isis and square taper so you probably need to reconfigure the tool (square taper needs the smaller head)

Yes, that's the one. You can see the thing I'm talking about in the middle. I'm working with square taper. I can turn a nut until the piece comes off, but didn't know if that was the right thing to do.

Nashbar is not big on instructions. If I was them, I wouldn't want all my customers going to Park Tools for info.

Thanks

Mike

Withoud really knowing the particular Nashbar crank puller, nor the crankset you have, I can, however, tell you that there are TWO "hats" for crank pullers:
- Smaller one for the square-taper cranks/axle
- Wider fella for the Octalink cranks/axle

Some (most?) crank pullers come with both "hats", so they are usable for both cranksets.

Thanks. I guess that I will try removing the piece in the way.

Mike

Yes, that's the one. You can see the thing I'm talking about in the middle. I'm working with square taper. I can turn a nut until the piece comes off, but didn't know if that was the right thing to do.

Nashbar is not big on instructions. If I was them, I wouldn't want all my customers going to Park Tools for info.

Thanks

Mike

Now, now, Mike, Nashbar actually provided plenty of info there:


Nashbar’s improved pro quality crank extractor comes with an angled handle for improved leverage and a rubberized grip for easy handling. Crank extractor has a built in stopper for octalink/isis style bottom brackets, works on square taper axles too.

Sounds like from the description that the octalink adapter is built into the unit.

This maybe a silly question, but you realize that the tool has two parts right? Also make sure that there isn't a washer in the crank bolt hole.


Thanks. No, I didn't know that. And I did check for washers. They seemed to be built onto the crank bolt, looked like a porkpie hat.

Mike

Now, now, Mike, Nashbar actually provided plenty of info there:

True, but I'm a total noob at this. Maybe shouldn't be messing with cranks and such. Anyway, thanks to you all for the help.

Mike

You took the nut off first. That's correct. Sounds like your crank spindle uses nuts instead of bolts. Not unusual for 1981.

I have the spin doctor one which has an identical hat. It needs to be removed or it won't screw into the ST crank far enough or at all. Once you do that it works fine.