Mountain Biking - so what exactly do i need for a front disc brake?

i'm going to use Avid Mechanicals...




i'll need a new hub, i know this. could someone point me to a hub that i could use? will i need a whole new front wheel, or can they just put the new hub into this wheel? would labour costs on that be very extreme?


my fork does have the disc mounts, so i'm good as far as that goes... i'm keeping my levers...



anything else i'm missing?

you got pretty much all of it. you can use the hub on your exisiting wheel but they'll have to unlace it and relace it or just buy a new rim and u can have 2 wheel sets

any idea what the labour costs should range in for the lacing?

it really depends on the store but your wheel has to be unlaced, relaced and trued... find out the price and if its a lot u should go out and buy a truing stand/ spokewrenchs so you can do it yourself. and plus ull have a truing stand!

To replace the hub they are going to have to totally break the wheel down, than reassemble it. You might need new spokes depending on the wheels age/use. It is not a good idea to untension than retension used spokes. Your looking at 25-30 labor and about the same for spokes depending on the kind you get.

Do not attempt to build your own wheel if you don't know what you are doing. You need alot more than just a truing stand to build the wheel.

Mindbogger- That is some really bad advice to give someone who does know about wheel building. Its a real good way to get someone hurt.

Well feltup everyone starts somewhere. Since wheels are not that hard, the most thing he will do is surrender about 5-6 hours of his time initially. I doubt that there is the chance of getting "hurt" unless he stabs himself in the eye with a spoke or someting.

I don't think that building a wheel without anyone that knows how is very smart. Have you ever built a wheel? Do you know how to get the hop out? Do you know how to stress the spokes? I know that a front is easier than a rear but there is alot more to it than getting it true.

When I said "hurt" I meant that a badly built wheel can be dangerous on the trail not the truing stand.

ps- If it takes 5-6 hours you need help.

Check out Mean Todd's deals at www.webcyclery.com
I had an Alex rim laced with a King disc hub for under 200 bucks, and he's got really good prices for more midrange builds as well. I've been really happy with this wheelbuild. All the spokes are equally tensioned, and the wheel has taken a real beating and is still true, so I believe that he stress relieves his builds.

Originally posted by Buzzbomb
I had an Alex rim laced with a King disc hub Not to be a prick but why?

i wouldnt try making my own wheel anyway, i wouldnt risk it.



so... should i buy any disc complatable hub from pricepoint, and bring that thing in with the disc brake and say "put these on"?

and how is the modulation on Avid Mecs? i see some reviews claim it to have boarderline none

Originally posted by Feltup
[B]I don't think that building a wheel without anyone that knows how is very smart. Have you ever built a wheel?

Yes I have built many many pairs, some for triathletes some for BMX, some for MTB, etc. have you?

[QUOTE][i] Do you know how to get the hop out?[QUOTE][i]

Yes I usually do this first thing before dishing and truing, it is a pretty basic step in wheel building. How abut you?

[QUOTE][i]Do you know how to stress the spokes?[QUOTE][i]

Yep can do this step as well. Do it the old fashoined way though that is the way I was taught, by the former British cyclocross team mech.

[QUOTE][i]I know that a front is easier than a rear but there is alot more to it than getting it true.[QUOTE][i]

Never said anything to the contrary.

[QUOTE][i] ps- If it takes 5-6 hours you need help. [QUOTE][i]

Go back and re-read why I said this. For some beginners this is not unreasonable, not ALL will take this long. How long did it take you on your first one?

Hunter I replied to your PM and will reply here as well. Don't take it so personal, I was just asking some questions not talking about your mom.:rolleyes:

Well then maybe you should word your responses differently.

err.. can someone answer my question about Avid modulation?

Originally posted by JasBike
err.. can someone answer my question about Avid modulation?

Did you check out MTBreview.com? That is going to be one of the best sources of info about components.

Hunter- Grow up and quit PMing me. Try answering JasBike's question since you are so full of knowledge on bikes.

JasBike- Here is a nice set of disc wheels at a nice price.

http://www.supergo.com/itemdisplay.asp?parentid=19250&secid=7559&subid=7567

hmm wouldn't it be cheaper just to get my current wheels rebuilt around new hubs?

Originally posted by JasBike
hmm wouldn't it be cheaper just to get my current wheels rebuilt around new hubs?
maybe, maybe not. You can probably find a really good deal on a wheel set from one of the online retailers. The wheel set might be more than rebuilding yours, but if its not a whole lot more than the money might be worth it beacuse you will have an upgraded wheel, that is if your wheels aren't top of the line right now.

Plus if you get a full wheel set, the rear wheel will be disk compatible you can add a disk back there later on.

On the other hand, learning to build a wheel is a pretty good skill to have and this is a good oportunity to learn.

my bike frame doesnt have a mount for a disc in the rear anyway.


i'll do some more investigation and see which is cheaper

Originally posted by JasBike
hmm wouldn't it be cheaper just to get my current wheels rebuilt around new hubs? Not by me it wouldn't

okay then..

if you have a lot of miles on yours now just go new.i am real happy with mine .was happy with v brakes then went disc and WAY COOL IN MUD AT SPEED.dont know what modulation is but these dudes stop when i need to stop!!!!!

modulation is just what you'd expect it to be... the range of available brake pressure from open to locking up the wheel.


so that way you can have more precise control over your speed

that is one thing i like they seem to have MUCH better control when wet or muddy .my v brakes were all or not much when wet.and it was trial and error to find out.these seem to act like they are dry.and these are el cheapos to try disc brakes before getting good ones.thanks for the info

Gotta admit up front that I don't know much about Disc brakes (gasp). :eek:

That said, however, with mechanical systems, modulation seems to be generally as much a function of the levers and cables as it is the brakes themselves.

My Avid SD-7 Levers modulate very nicely and the modulation is adjustable. I like the way that they look, too. :) And I really notice the difference between these with my old TekPro POS levers (who wouldn't). Of course, this is with V-Brakes, but since the systems are still mechanical, the analogy probably works (said the guy who knows nothing about disc brakes).

On the wheel front- I would get new ones. The price is not the different from having it rebuilt well and then you will have two sets. It will also give you one less thing you have to do before you get to ride again. Then if you really want to use your existing rims, make swapping the wheels a future project. At that point, you can decide if you want to build them yourself or not.

Good luck.

- Jeff

can i buy JUST a front wheel?

Yes. For nice custom wheels, check out that site I gave you earlier in this thread, otherwise, you can just buy a machine made wheel from an etailer or mailorder place. If the guy who builds it knows what he's doing, the handbuilt wheel will be a much better wheel.

Originally posted by JasBike
can i buy JUST a front wheel?

Yes - you might even get an odd one cheap.

Originally posted by Raiyn
Not to be a prick but why?

Too late! No, seriously, because it's what I wanted, and I've got the cash, so I got it. Thanks for your concern and apparent willingness to set me straight on my equipment choices, though.:p

JasBike,
I have noticed with the Avid mech's the CPS system is really nice being able to independently adjust the pads is a advantage over hydro systems. Installation is real quick, and if you use the Full Metal Jacket cables the feel is impressive in comparison to linear pull brakes. The modulation of this brake system is real sweet. They have far greater power at speed then linear rim brakes, and are superb in the muck. Although the modulation is no comparison to hydro systems, for the money, they are unbeatable. If you have a choice between Avid's or hydro systems go with Avid's if nothing else for the ease of adjustment, and less money. There are ways aound the no disc tab on your frame without welding one on.

could you share some of the ways around not having a disc tab on the rear?



also, could someone show me where i can buy a single wheel?

Originally posted by JasBike

also, could someone show me where i can buy a single wheel?



http://www.performancebike.com/shop/subcategory.cfm?Cat_ID=25&Sub_ID=5322

Originally posted by JasBike
could you share some of the ways around not having a disc tab on the rear?



also, could someone show me where i can buy a single wheel?

http://www.woodmancomponents.com/products/items/2k2/disc/disco_sy.html

Also most any LBS can either build or procure you a single wheel easily.

I put an Avid mechanical on my hardtail recently for about $200 total. I bought a Sun Rhyno Lite front wheel with an XT disk\compatible hub for $109 from my lbs. The brake cost about $69 at Pricepoint and I used my existing XT lever/cable. Installation was easy, remember: don't touch rotor with your bare hands, and make sure the wheel (hence rotor/pads) is centered anytime you remove and replace the wheel. Also, use only the pad adjustment knobs on the calipers to compensate for wear and cable stretch-not the barrel adjuster on the lever. I can tell you that modulation is improved over V brakes but probably not quite as good as hydraulics-power is impressive and fade is non-existent.

i'd love to do it for that cheap.. but i've never done any real bike work short of some quick adusments, and dont trust myself with putting on a disc brake for fear of messing something up.

Not to get too off topic, but you should consider getting the tools and installing the brakes yourself.

As far as I know, the only things that you need are a decent hex set for the brake installation, which you should probably already have even if you are just doing minor adjustments, and a Torx wrench for the rotor (anyone-- please correct me if I am wrong here since I have never installed these brakes). The only special tool is a cable cutter which you should already have, too.

A decent book can get you started (I like Lennard Zinn's book) and you will realize that your bike is not as much of a mystery as you thought it was. The best part is that since you do the work yourself, you will know how to fix it if something goes south while you are out on the trails.

Just my two cents. I started working on my bike because my LBS was charging more than what I wanted to pay for seemingly simple tasks, but I have always been pretty comfortable about taking stuff apart...

- Jeff

Why NOT buy a wheelset? For the price of a single front, you can get a pair of wheels. I saw a set of Deore Disc wheels at pricepoint for $95; http://pricepoint.com/product1054.html

Or, upgrade to the XT hubs for $120; http://pricepoint.com/product64.html

Even if you are still using the rim brake. That way, you have a spare rear wheel. I don't know about you guys, but I've destroyed about 5 rear wheels and have YET to taco a front!

L8R

I got the XT set from them -very nice wheels and dead straight

Woah... thats a good deal...

while we're on the topic of wheels, i might as well ask this:



what makes one wheelset better than another? or one hub better than another?

Hubs.....quality of the bearings! quality of the freehub. Engagement points on the freehub, quality and durability of the hub body, especially at the flanges where the spoke holes are drilled.

Rims.....roundness from the factory (easier and better builds). The rim profile. IOW if you cut a section of the rim out, would it be a single U-Shape, or a Box section or a double or triple box section. The quality and strength of the joint where the two ends are joined. The quality of the aluminum used. Do the spoke holes have stainless eyelets? Some rim brakes have a ceramic coating to help them stop better. Lots of things.

It's the difference between a Timex and a Rolex. Both tell time, but the precision and tolerances are night and day!

L8R

Forgot to discuss the most important factor. The building of said wheels. A well built wheel regardless of quality parts will stay straighter and hold up better than a bad build with top notch components.

L8R

okay, i'm ordering from pricepoint soon.. tonight or tommorow...

http://pricepoint.com/product428.html


should i get that hub?

You'll have no problems with the XT hub but why not get the wheelset? http://pricepoint.com/product64.html You'll have new rims front and rear and the high flange of the disc hub is going to make for a less flexy wheel simply due to the shorter spokes

hmm mabey i WILL just get that wheel set... heres a stupid question:


they don't come pre-built right?

Yes they do, all you have to do is add rim-tape and mount your tire and tube. Oh yeah, you'll need to remove your cassette from your old wheel and put it on the new one. Unless, you also buy a new cassette, you could ask the mail order shop to install it for you!

L8R

well i think i'll just leave my rear wheel on for now, and set the other up as a spare to keep with me.


is it difficult to get a tube/tire mounted?

and whats rim tape?

Nope, not difficult at all, and you should definately learn as you'll probably get a flat while riding sooner or later.

You should probably invest in a patch kit, a spare tube, and a mini-pump.

Rim tape is either a rubber, plastic or cloth strip that is on the rim to cover where the spoke nipples come through the rim. If you don't have anything there you'll eventually rub a hole in your tube.

To install a tire, do this:

Put on one side at a time, the first side usually goes on pretty easy. Make sure the bead (wire that is on a tire that connects to the rim). is on all the way around. Then, inflate you tube JUST enough to where it becomes round, then insert the valve stem through the rim and then tuck the tube into the tire. Next, you have to push the other side of the tire onto the rim. Start at the valve stem and push the wire bear onto the rim in both directions from the valve stem. Once you get to the top, to where about 6-8 of the tire is left, it gets HARD to do. Deflate a little bit of the air left in the tube and also squeese the tire to make sure the bead is in the center part of the rim. Then grab the tire with both hands (thumbs touching each other) and roll the rest of the tire onto the rim. Wheel in lap, not finished part of tire up top and you ROLL the tire away from you.

DON'T USE A SCREWDRIVER or a Tire tool as you'll pinch the tube.

Easier to show someone than to explain it!

L8R

O_O



mabey i'll have my LBS show me the first time..