Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Your light that lights all nights

Agreed, it is a big part and I know how stupid that is although if it were all image I wouldn't be toting a Carradice. I also feel slicing and dicing my good set of wheels would be tragic (sorry for the choice of words). I might do it with my older set at some point but I want to see if it can be done without doing that first. I also know how the littlest thing like knowing there is a slight added drag can make my mind feel like quitting (if that makes any sense).

Lighting seems to be a hot topic right now, there is a heated discussion (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=384641) going on in the electronics forums right now.
I don't really think it's stupid. I mean, we're riding because we like it, and if junking up your racing bike with lights, racks, bags, etc. detracts from your enjoyment, then it's a bad idea. I just mean to say that "three thousand mile tour" and "sleek racing bike" are a tough combo, and you'll probably have to get used to the idea of compromise.

As for chopping up a good set of wheels, "I feel your pain". I cut a really nice hub out of a specialty rim in order to switch to the SON, and it hurt. But in my case, there was no better way to get there from here, and I don't regret it all.

Oh, and as to drag -- yeah, I know. But you might want to ask yourself how much all the spare batteries are going to weigh... :p

A 240 lumen lighting alternative I use instead of a dynohub is:

3.6 Watt 240 lumen CREE led MR-16 bulb ($22.50 on ebay)

with a rechargeable 12V NiMH battery pack - Options are: www.batteryspace.com
AA batterypack (10oz/283 grams)- $20.95 - 2.2Ah = 7.3 hours
C batterypack (2lb/903 grams)- $54.95 - 5Ah = 16.6 hours
There are larger NiMH packs as well... these 2 are the ones I carry.

Lithium batterypacks can be used for much longer running time, if desired. Such as a 20Ah 12V 2.5kg rechargeable lithium battery pack that would give a cyclist 66.6 hours of run time on the 240 lumen CREE led bulb, enough for many many days of partial night riding.:D

That is pretty much the latest in technology that is available in the market today (i.e. not requiring you to solder something). By the way, the 60+ hour lithium battery costs around $400, and comes in a fire-retardant waterproof case.

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SharpT

Hi,
I had the same problem mounting the HiFlux and am using an Issimo Nob now and have it mounted on the fork. Actually I believe that mounting the light on the fork gives better light anyhow.
If you do not have a carbon fork you could also use a similar mount made of a steel band and plastic nob ( forgot the brand name).


http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=40596

A 240 lumen lighting alternative I use instead of a dynohub is:

3.6 Watt 240 lumen CREE led MR-16 bulb ($22.50 on ebay)

with a rechargeable 12V NiMH battery pack - Options are: www.batteryspace.com
AA batterypack (10oz/283 grams)- $20.95 - 2.2Ah = 7.3 hours
C batterypack (2lb/903 grams)- $54.95 - 5Ah = 16.6 hours
There are larger NiMH packs as well... these 2 are the ones I carry.

Lithium batterypacks can be used for much longer running time, if desired. Such as a 20Ah 12V 2.5kg rechargeable lithium battery pack that would give a cyclist 66.6 hours of run time on the 240 lumen CREE led bulb, enough for many many days of partial night riding.:D

That is pretty much the latest in technology that is available in the market today (i.e. not requiring you to solder something). By the way, the 60+ hour lithium battery costs around $400, and comes in a fire-retardant waterproof case.

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SharpT

That's what I'm talking about although I have no idea how to put the two of those things together and I'd want a battery pack that you can put batteries in individually so rechargeables, alkalines, or lithiums could be used. Unless I'm missing something, it looks like soldering is involved which I would happily do if I know what to do. After my hi-flux is upgraded I might look into this as well.

I didn't use solder on my set-up, but you will have to browse through the geek lighting thread on the commuting forum to get all the details on a DIY system. Off-the shelf systems tend to run 1-2 or more years behind current technology, so if you want long hours of decent LED light today, you will have to DIY a bit. I don't think CREE has hit any off-the-shelf bike lighting systems yet.

A picture of my light can be seen in the recent cue sheet thread on this forum.

On a 600k or more I plan to carry a blank battery pack like one of these linked below as backup. But one could just use a battery pack holder and lithium batteries off the shelf, no rechargeable, and this would work as well.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2124

Or for long non-rechargeable, I'd go with an 8X C cell battery pack, and fill with lithium-ion batteries, which should give around 15Ah or up to 50 hours with the 240 lumen CREE bulb (~$100 and non-rechargeable). When you need more batteries on the road it will be hard to find C-cell lithium off the shelf, so you would resort to alkaline, which would still give you up to 25 hours, at double? the weight. Or look into lithium AA batteries, which are available off the shelf at WalMart and such, at $9/4 AA batteries, and one would need many AA batteries for a 3000 mile ride.

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SharpT

My FSA control panel came today but unfortunately the new LED hasn't come yet, but it was a sweltering 3C so it was a good reason to get out and do a 20km ride into the unlit country (Peggy's Cove area). The light from my cygolite was decent on the way in (20-30km/h), it certainly downed out my BLT but had the same problem of not being able to distinguish very well between shadow, pothole, or dark patch. When I turned around I lowered the light and pointed it more towards the ground as to have a brighter spot but not see as far ahead. On the way out (40-50km/h) I had no problems aside from not having as much reaction time but being able to know if I have to react or not. I should add that I have very good eyesight.

I'll update again when I get the LED and I'll see if I can figure out how to take pictures of the lights in action. Right now I'm thinking I'll probably add another light pointed further out, it'll be either another of the same or a DIY light like what SharpT sugested (for most of my local shorter rides I'll be using the fenix which should run for 4+ hours with backup NiMHs).

Finally got my new emitter (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394) today and replacing it was easy, simple desolder then solder. There is a very noticeable difference, the light is whiter as opposed to the original bluish/greenish and there is a lot more spread. It is now on par with my Fenix L2D (http://www.fenixlight.com/flashlight/fenixl2d.htm). The spread is a little different though, with the fenix the center spot is brighter and there is a larger spread in total but the modded cygolite has a much brighter spread apart from the very center (and it should last 25 hours as opposed to 4). I'm buying another hi-flux so at some point I'll see if I can get some comparison pictures.

have the Dinotte 200L. It's convenient. You can carry extra batteries with you - but on high beam, each set of 4 will last you about 90 minutes. However, even though this light puts out 200 lumens, I wouldn't recommend riding more than 15 mph on routes that you are not familiar with and are completely dark.

I'd recommend the Dinotte 600L with 2 4cell batteries that each have a 3.5 hour runtime - cost is $399 for that setup:

http://store.dinottelighting.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=dinotte&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=517894923&Count2=435035347&ProductID=19&Target=products.asp

If you really want bright lights and long runtime, then you have to pay for it. The lupine betty 12 is 1400 lumens:

http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=45&zenid=b70b119a26c49e56ee0a577fffc67ca9

I'm unclear on what your purpose is:

lights that will last indefinitely. Since sometimes we can be gone a long time and not have access to electricity and often ride much of the night."


"just so I can ride a few hours in the night every once and a while."

My recommendation would be the Dinotte 600L with the 200L as a backup.

Thank you for the mention!

The LUPINEs are great lights and they are expensive. This is a case of "you get what you pay for", IMHO. We have lots of experience with both brands (LUPINE and Dinotte) and have ridden with them both extensively. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Dinottes, they do exactly what they are supposed to do. It's a matter of price and preference. For instance, the LUPINE package is "turn-key". You get the car charger and other accessories included and a great compartmentalized carrying case to boot. Everything is organized neatly and works perfectly. You just know that you have true quality in your hand when you hold a LUPINE. So what's the true cost? I think they are very competitive when you consider it all.

Good luck!

so no-one uses the ixon?

ixon? Do they sell lights?

They are made by Busch & Müller. I picked up an Ixon IQ from PW for around town on my FG. On off the bike in a snap. Great light output. 4 recahrgeable AA's that I can swap to other gear as needed. 2 settings - I use the high in the rain and when on the MUP, and the low setting at dawn or dusk or when in town amongst the streetlights. Like most of the German lights it uses a lens that focuses the light on the road just where you need it. Might consider the ride and charge option as well.

I run a Schmidt and E6s on my rando machine. Waiting for an eDeluxe - but the batt light is great for when I don't need all night light.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Lights/ixon192.jpg

You can lead a horse to water ....