Touring - Tubus Logo Install Problem

Hey all, I have come upon a problem installing my Tubus Logo rear rack. As you can see from the pictures, the left rack attachment rail is right up against the brake noodle and link. I am using a Trek 520 and the stock Avid Single Digit 5 brakes. After some extreme brake shoe spacing, the rear brakes are functional...so my primary concern is long term integrity of the rack rail from the constant rubbing. I have wrapped the rail with one of the included protectors, but it will most likely rub through fairly quickly. Has anyone else come across a similar issue and or have ideas for a solution that does not involve a new set of brakes?
-Cheers

http://bike360.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/brake1.jpg
http://bike360.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/brake2.jpg

Turn the rail blocks around and connect the rails to the inside. That should take care of your problem.

Turn the rail blocks around and connect the rails to the inside. That should take care of your problem.

Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Go from this

http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/Flip-Mounting-Stays-1-250.jpg

To this

http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/Flip-Mounting-Stays-2-250.jpg

If that doesn't work, you can get curved stays

http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/Adpt-No-11.jpg

from Wayne at the Touring Store (http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/FIT%20SOLUTIONS%20PAGE.htm)...where I stole the pictures from;)

that's what i did - tubus cargo on 17" trek 520

Or you can just bend the stays you already have, rather that fork out unneccesary cash...

I had the exact same problem (520 and logo) and it works fine.

I had to do with my Vega rack exactly what Cyccommute demonstated. My only problem was that my allen wrenches wouldn't fit between the seatstays, so I had to use the rounded ends of my Bondous (sp?) allen set and tighten them as best as I could. You may also have to cut the stays if they extend out the top of the rack as in the photograph. I used my chop saw to make a nice clean job of it.

Or you could just replace the 520 w/ an LHT, works fine.

:D

I'M SO SICK OF THE $#!%£ LHT, LHT, LHT!!!

(inhale/exhale)

Or you could just replace the 520 w/ an LHT, works fine.

:D

Or you could replace the V-brakes with regular cantilever brakes. That way you aren't stuck with using 287V levers. It will save you some trouble over a full upgrade to a LHT.

Speedo

Tried flipping around the rail blocks and it is still grinding against the link, just farther inward...any other solutions?
Duke, what size 520 frame do you have?

Or you can just bend the stays you already have, rather that fork out unneccesary cash...

I had the same problem and took the advice of DukeArcher above, just take the one giving problems wrap it in a rag put in a vice and bend it (just a bit) you wont need much. If you don't like the way it looks do the same on the other.

Cant remember offhand the exact size, I'll go find out. In the meantime here's pic of how I bent the logo stays. Don#t have a closer photo atm..

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/208/490613838_40f5e8f311_o.jpg

I'm putting the same on my 520 in stainless, so glad to have the tip! did you put them on the inside of the eyelets also?
By the way, Awesome bike! Here's mine a couple of weeks oldhttp://nexo-s.com/userstatic/risingpheonix/pictures/fed7603e6ebe47d68c978751c2dd3772/Photo%2036.jpg I just got it, I'll have to post an update when I'm done playing.

I'm putting the same on my 520 in stainless, so glad to have the tip! did you put them on the inside of the eyelets also?

Just a thought, I wouldn't try to bend the stainless one's yourself, small stainless tubing takes a lot of force and has a tendency to buckle in awkward places rather than bending the way you want it to.

Just a thought, I wouldn't try to bend the stainless one's yourself, small stainless tubing takes a lot of force and has a tendency to buckle in awkward places rather than bending the way you want it to.

I'm not 100% sure as I don't have my bike with me ATM, but I think that the Tubus' stay is a solid piece of metal, not hollow tubing. Easy to detect a flick if the finger.

I'm not 100% sure as I don't have my bike with me ATM, but I think that the Tubus' stay is a solid piece of metal, not hollow tubing. Easy to detect a flick if the finger.

Good call, just took the little rubber cap off the stays on my cargo and they are definitely solid, while the rest of the rack is tubular.