Classic & Vintage - Shim a Cinelli?

Say that fast three times! :)

Has anyone shimmed a 26.4mm quill stem to accept a 26.0 road bar with good and safe results? Does anyone make such a shim, or will I have to fabricate one myself?

I want a 26.0 Cinelli quill stem in black for a build, but all I see on ebay is lots of the older 26.4's.

Yeah, just did it on my Carlton, no big deal. Got the shim from Velo-Orange.

Hey - I've got a black Cinelli stem in the parts bin. Want I should measure it for you?

Hey - I've got a black Cinelli stem in the parts bin. Want I should measure it for you?

Cool, yeah that would be great! :)

I'm looking for standard road dimensions, but not over 100mm reach.

Yeah, just did it on my Carlton, no big deal. Got the shim from Velo-Orange.

The 26.0 to 25.4 shim worked ok for 26.4 to 26.0? I checked Velo Orange and they only showed the standard sized shim.

Cool, yeah that would be great! :)

I'm looking for standard road dimensions, but not over 100mm reach.

Well - the good news is that it is black, a Cinelli, and 80mm. AND, I got to use my brand new handy-dandy Harbor Freight calipers for the first time. Which brings us to the bad news - it's 26.4mm. :(

If you can still use it, let me know via PM and I'll send it your way.

PM to BBM

The 26.0 to 25.4 shim worked ok for 26.4 to 26.0? I checked Velo Orange and they only showed the standard sized shim.
I just did the same thing and it works fine.

The shim is 2 pieces, and doesn't fill the entire inside section of the stem hole. It's the thickness that's doing the shimming, 26 to 25.4 or 26.4 to 26 shouldn't matter.

I just had the same issue because I wanted to you some older logo Cinelli bars on a Cinelli bike - kept getting beat out on ebay ultimately went with a Nitto Tech. stem in 26.0/90mm which are readily available - not as classy as a black 1r 26 Cinelli, but in works pretty well and I like the extra heighth.

sorry to revive this thread but I ran into a serious problem today, trying to make fit together a 25.4 bar and a 26.4 cinelli 1R..

i used pabst a blue ribbon can and it hold... the problem is that it will move during lateral pushes for instance uphills I will use my side extensions but it is not stiff at all, it's soft where the bars are held by the stem (shim's not perfect it seems) and so i'm losing much energy.


i was wondering, given the peculiar design of the 1R... do you know if sandwiching a small coin, like a penny, between the push-mechanism that basically goes like this // (one has to be familiar with the weird way the 1R functions....)
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/m/mDTLaid0sccRbWwCg9j0CHA/140.jpg
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/blackdice23/P1000543.jpg
i am asking because the regular beercan shims are proving almost useless in situations where performance is needed.

25.4 to 26.4 is a long way. Beer can works great for 26.0 to 26.4 but I assume you need something thicker.

On a 1R, I" would buy the appropriate shim stock in brass or aluminum from a machine shop supply house or a hobby store.

Maybe even slightly oversize in brass would be ideal. .008" is the correct size for 26.4 to 26.0... .010 is quite common and should work well.

sorry to revive this thread but I ran into a serious problem today, trying to make fit together a 25.4 bar and a 26.4 cinelli 1R..

i used pabst a blue ribbon can and it hold... the problem is that it will move during lateral pushes for instance uphills I will use my side extensions but it is not stiff at all, it's soft where the bars are held by the stem (shim's not perfect it seems) and so i'm losing much energy.


i was wondering, given the peculiar design of the 1R... do you know if sandwiching a small coin, like a penny, between the push-mechanism that basically goes like this // (one has to be familiar with the weird way the 1R functions....)

The 1R wasn't that reliable a design to start with. They have a penchant for slipping to start with; shimming a 1R an entire 1mm is simply inciting trouble.

Get a 26.4 bar and do it the right way. You'll wind up spending less time, the expense will be marginal, and you'll only have to deal with the 1R's inherent weaknesses without any additional hindrances.

-Kurt

damn and I had to almost foobar a 473er mililiters of PABST only to find out it's a softee

Don't over think it. Two or three layers of beer can if necessary. Tape into place. This is not rocket science.

damn and I had to almost foobar a 473er mililiters of PABST only to find out it's a softee

Mind you, it is always good to measure your flexinordial hatotudinal indicative directional pointing meter beforehand.

-Kurt

Mind you, it is always good to measure your flexinordial hatotudinal indicative directional pointing meter beforehand.

-Kurt

Well done. You do have a sense of humor.

i will def. try the not-rocket-science thing... my main difficulty was the bits of pabst moving while I was setting the clamp in place, and thus decreasing the shim's effective diameter........ i will better calculate and tape the shim beforehand, next wednesday, and report back.

if it doesnt work, i'll try sandwiching a penny... and invent a new shim technique on the 1R

if it doesnt work, i'll try sandwiching a penny... and invent a new shim technique on the 1R

Without question, too thick - unless you have access to one of those tourist-penny-flattening things. Remember, you just need 1mm; 0.5mm if around the entire stem.

Even if you could flatten a penny for the job, the resulting oval will not be large enough to spread the wedge pressure accordingly, and you might as well have started with a 0.5mm aluminum shim to start with.

It isn't going to work, trust me. At any rate, grease up the wedge contact areas in your 1R; make it easier to tighten.

-Kurt

I had to do this for a while, and the beer can is too small - try roof flashing.