I'd like to start a thread about this topic - none of my research when buying a bike involved hits about this very important subject.
IF YOU HAVE BROKEN A FRAME - UNDER NORMAL RIDING CONDITIONS - LET US KNOW HERE!
I recently had my MOTOBECANE FLY 9357 split into two peices underneath me while riding a calm trail around a lake. The frame broke at the weld on the top tube where it meets the head tube, causing it to fold the downtube, ripping it in two and catapulting me over the handle bars.
I hurt my back and shoulder, fortunately I left my camera gear at home that day, or I would have broken that as well.
The bike shop owner of Bikes Direct at the St. John's Town Center in Jacksonville, FL decided to tell his boss "tall-tales" of how I ride, and they made their decision not to consider it under warranty.
I ride the occasional wheelie, and bunnyhop up a curb smoothly once in a while, but other than that, I rode the bike to and from work. It's supposed to be a XC Racing Frame, and to anyone that has ever seen or participated in an XC race, you know there's much more torture than the ride to work or the controlled wheelie.
I wrote to the manufacture after contacting a lawyer once I found out the only warranty I had there was worthless. I'll post an update once I hear back from the manufacture.
Dig the photos:
Facebook Photo Album (http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=29327&l=57b61&id=577246513)
MOTOBECANE FLY 9357 XC RACING FRAME BROKEN / CRACKED AT THE WELD AND SPLIT IN TWO : JAN 28 2008 REFUSED TO COVER UNDER "LIFETIME WARRANTY"
The BikeForums Team
-adv-
This is an archived thread, you can find the full version of this thread, with images, links and more content here.
1971 American Eagle [Nishiki] Semi Pro [Competition], S/N KS78091 -- seat tube lug broke away from the BB shell after 20 years and about 40k mi / 65k km
ca. 1975 Peugeot UO-8 -- right chainstay cracked between the chainwheel and tire clearance dimples after 20 years and an unknown amount of use
Neither failure was life- or injury-threatening in any way.
In contrast, your failure is downright scary. It looks as though the TIG weld between the head tube and the top tube failed first.
wethepeople
IF YOU HAVE BROKEN A FRAME - UNDER NORMAL RIDING CONDITIONS - LET US KNOW HERE!
I snap about a frame a season when I ride BMX, they are meant to be abused but I don't know whats considered 'normal' for them. None of them have been bad other than usually just a bit of rash.
Wordbiker
While I am sorry you were injured, I can't say I'm that surprised a Motobecane failed. It is after all one of the cheapest bikes in its category available on the market, and that particular model made many, many sacrifices to save weight. Something had to give to attain that 21 lb weight at under $1K...apparently it was the frame strength.
zonatandem
[moderator edited for offensiveness]
Have broken a custom tandem frame after 50,000 miles and again at 56,000 miles. Built in the USA and 'YES' . . . covered by a real lifetime warranty.
Also broke and exprerimental steel fork after 15,000 miles and builder supplied me with a brand new fork . . . free.
Quality costs/lasts . . . junk is cheaper!
-=Łem in Pa=-
[quote moderator edited for offensiveness]http://www.therevolvingdoor.net/forums/images/smilies/th_redneck.gif
Every company has frames that break. A Motobecane is a Fuji, is a Kenesium, is a trek, etc...
How did Cannondale(American) earn the nickname 'Crack n Fail' BTW ??
:rolleyes:
photoassign
thanks, =Łem=, it really does get xenophobic once in a while..
Feldman
Buy a Trek. I worked for one of their dealers for 15+ years--their warranty IS worth the paper it's written on and then some. Trek takes care of their customers.
StrangeWill
I have frackin' nightmares about having this happen while on my bike.
Alas I weigh all of 105, so I'd have to have one messed up frame.
mstrpete
'80's vintage Trek 830 MTB, cracked head tube. Trek agreed to replace the whole bike with a new 820, thanks to a pep talk from LBS.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/boysrus/186_8608.jpg
Pat
I had a Cannondale frame fail at the rear chain stay. The bike had something like 50,000 miles on it. I think it was a fatigue failure. The rear triangle did not go to where the rear drop out was. It had a 3" projection past the rear drop out for the rear drop out, where the axle attaches. The whole thing was made even weaker because for some inexplicable reason Cannondale had a hole drilled in the center of the projection. The failure was not any safety problem. This happened a number of years ago. As I recall, Cannondale just replaced the frame. The bike was a number of years old at the time.
ZaqHydN
1971 American Eagle [Nishiki] Semi Pro [Competition], S/N KS78091 -- seat tube lug broke away from the BB shell after 20 years and about 40k mi / 65k km
ca. 1975 Peugeot UO-8 -- right chainstay cracked between the chainwheel and tire clearance dimples after 20 years and an unknown amount of use
Neither failure was life- or injury-threatening in any way.
In contrast, your failure is downright scary. It looks as though the TIG weld between the head tube and the top tube failed first.
I'm inclined to agree. It was my initial observation after picking up the peices and examining them carefully. I'll have more detailed photos soon as I get my frame back from Craig at Bikes Direct.
San Rensho
How do you know it broke at the top tube first? It could also be that the downtube failed first, then when it let go, the top tube snapped off, which is consistent with the forces involved in jumping the bike. As you land, the top tube is compressed, the downtube is being pulled with lots of force and it failed.
This failure shouldn't happen in a well designed MTB, so in any event, they should warranty the frame. If the top tube had popped out and the downtube had been kinked, that would be consistent with hitting something head on very hard, which would arguably be abuse, but failure because of jumping should be covered.
AndrewP
When "just riding along" the top tube is in compression and the downtube is in tension. This looks like the top tube weld failed in tension and the downtube buckled in compression - like it was run into a curb. I am not surprised that they didnt stand by the warranty.
C8H10N4O2
I've had some bad experiences with my Specialized Langster. Snapped two frames. One right in front of the DS fork end and one just above the top tube (see link for grisly pix)
They replaced the first frame.
I'm still waiting to hear if the warranty replacement frame is also warrantied. Specialized is grumbling, but my LBS is trying to work something out.
'98 Fuji Finest broke drive side chainstay at dropout after 4 years & 20K miles. Fuji shipped me a new '01 Finest frame after they inspected the broken frame. Nice work, Fuji.
mandovoodoo
I would think an objective expert analysis of the frame independent of any anecdotal information on the incident would reveal whether warranty replacement is fair. Certainly a mountain bike should handle fairly rough treatment for a substantial period without complaint.
My concern with threads like this is that some are used to simply wrangle for unwarranted concessions. And some are legitimate warnings about problem products. They're so difficult to tell apart.
Ultimately each case requires independent evaluation. An experts evaluation in writing presented to the manufacturer with a demand letter could be anticipated to do the job.
Flying Merkel
My '97 Specialized Rockhopper has two cracks in the head tube. One starts from the bottom, the other from the top. There're about an 1 1/2 from meeting.
I haven't started the warranty battle yet. I have abused this bike by riding up & down stairs, off loading docks, up curbs and other. If Spec doesn't cover it, I can't complain.
What constitutes abuse when it comes to mountain bikes, anyway?
randya
Up until now, I've broken exactly one steel and one aluminum frame in 40 years of riding. Just broke my second seat post today, too.
RobertHurst
Up until now, I've broken exactly one steel and one aluminum frame in 40 years of riding. Just broke my second seat post today, too.
Nice, what kind was it may I ask?
C8H10N4O2
... An experts evaluation in writing presented to the manufacturer with a demand letter could be anticipated to do the job.
Do you have any suggestions as to where/how/how much for this evaluation?
I really would like to know if the frame is defective or if I'm just too powerful.
My money's on "defective frame."
steel frame - late 70's Japanese Fuji S10S, both seat stays broke at the seat tube
Aluminum frame - 21st century Chinese Raleigh Chopper reissue, seat tube broke in the seat bolt area
seat posts - 21st century alloy Trek 'Post Moderne' suspension; 21st century alloy Raleigh suspension, solid inner rods cracked on both
I'm done with suspension seatposts, btw
mihlbach
I've cracked tons of older steel frames, but thats not really surpising or relevant. However, my 2002 Specialized Sirrus frame broke last year after about 4,000 miles. The DS chainstay snapped in half when climbing a hill. It might have been under warrantee, but I hated that frame and gladly tossed it in the trash.
mandovoodoo
Do you have any suggestions as to where/how/how much for this evaluation?
I really would like to know if the frame is defective or if I'm just too powerful.
My money's on "defective frame."
No idea. Were I looking at such a thing I would call my lawyers' office and ask who they had in product liability. Get an idea of what level of expert would be useful. If that level was too expensive, then I'd call a university and find a grad student or prof willing to take on the analysis of the metal. This type of evaluation may be relatively expensive for a simple broken frame, but very little relative to the case value where serious injuries occur.
I would think that a company faced with a formal demand letter indicating analysis by expert so and so demonstrated that the face was defective would work. Watch out for too much discoverable written material. Sometimes more effective to keep things as unwritten as feasible and close to the chest. Where there's real money at stake.
bbattle
When "just riding along" the top tube is in compression and the downtube is in tension. This looks like the top tube weld failed in tension and the downtube buckled in compression - like it was run into a curb. I am not surprised that they didnt stand by the warranty.
+1
I'd be interested in seeing the steerer tube up close and also the handlebars to check for deflection around the stem.
C8H10N4O2
... I'd call a university and find a grad student or prof willing to take on the analysis of the metal.
Interesting idea. The LBS has the frame now, but if it's not covered, I'll try to get it back and go this route.
...Where there's real money at stake.
Fortunately, there were no injuries in my case. But it's still good advice.