Road Cycling - OK, did I get the wrong size?

Researched, measured, double checked, decided that on most mfg frames, a 55 would fit, on some a 56 would be OK, most 54 I tried seemed too "tight".

So purchased a 56 Gunnar few weeks ago, have been commuting 12 miles every day, and had been adjusted the bars almost every other day, I've settled into a position that feels best, the top part of the curve of the bar is level, and the hoods are in the position so that the web between my thumb & index finger settles in there nice, but I cannot get into the drops in a comfortable position, the ends are angled down, and not horizontal with the ground, so I rarely get into the drops (although it seems that I really don't need to) Almost seems like a shorter top tube would of corrected this, but for my saddle position and leg extension I have over 5 inches of post showing.
So did I screw up?

It might help to know that this is my first road bike, and coming from years of Mountain Bike riding... :beer:

You might just need to change stems.Go back where you got it and see what they say.

Originally posted by shokhead
You might just need to change stems.Go back where you got it and see what they say.

One of the first things I did;
1) Purchased over the Internet (at $600 less that everywhere else)
2) Came with a 120/5deg, changed to a 90/10deg.

5 inches of post seems pretty normal. Unless your torso is a bit on the shorter side, your stem seems to be reasonable as well. Did you try raising your handlebar to almost saddle level it that's possible at all just to see if that'll help?

If the tops and hoods are set right, but the drops feel wrong, maybe your bars have too deep/large radius drops.
I can't get down into most racing drops, so I use a shallower set of touring drops.

Could just be that that your muscles need time to get used to the position. Or maybe your bars are a little wide for you which would be felt more while in the drops. 5 inches of seat post showing is very normal.

You may need to adjust the brake hood placement on the bars. When you rotate your bars to the point that the drops start pointing down, the reach is increased compared to when the drops are parallel to the ground. If you move the hoods higher up on the bars, your hood position should be similar to what it is now with your bars rotated, but you'll feel less stretched out in the drops.

Good Luck

I will second the suggestion from The Fixer. For starter,s nothing lower (for the tops of the bar) than either level with your seat top or 1 inch below. The other thought is related to the position of the bar drops (the bottom 4-6 inches) relative to the "horizontal". Generally speaking, the ends of the drop bars are set to a position that is level (horizontal) to the ground. That's not to say that there aren't other workable positions, but that position (horizontal) is the position at which the drops are designed for their greatest effectiveness. Many people that I ride with, will ride with the ends of the bars angled slightly down (pointing at the ground). This angles the hoods back and up. This usually creates a more comfortable and relaxed riding position. But that position also forces you to stretch further to maintain a grip on the drops. My suggestion is to set the drops at the horizontal and sacrifice the more relaxed position, You can't have both.

Stem/handlebar position is pretty tricky, there are so many varibles. If you had a previous road bike, you could measure it and transfer it to your new ride. Even if you did not buy the bike from your LBS, they should be able to do a fit for you on it. As a rule of thumb, when you are it a comfortable riding position, look down at handlebar top, it should be in line with your front hub (the hub should be directly behind the handlebar) If the hub is in front of the bar, the stem is too short, if the hub is behind the bar, the stem is too long. But this still does not address the height. This is depends on what is comfortable for you...is was easier back in the days of a quill stem. Try raising it as much as possible and go for a ride....a fit at your LBS might be a good investment.

Originally posted by fogrider
...LBS... do a fit for you...
... handlebar top... in line with your front hub ...

Ya, I asked my LBS; "Seventy-five bucks since you didn't buy through us, free fitting if you did" (Think I pissed them off a little).

When my hands are on top of the bars, the axel/hub is just behind/below the flat part of the bars, (and I'm in a more upright position than my MTB), when at the hoods, the axel/hub is just barley in front of the bars... In the drops - I donno everything seems so squirrelly and I'm too busy concentrating on what's coming up... Maybe it's just my newbie-ness on a road bike, maybe it's the new position(s), maybe I'll take a picture or two and ask again... :confused:

Thanks all for answering.

Originally posted by Don Cook
... nothing lower (for the tops of the bar) than either level with your seat top or 1 inch below...
... bar drops (the bottom 4-6 inches) relative to the "horizontal".

OK, measured, the top of the bars are 1" below the highest part of the saddle (Back end since I've got a slight drop in the saddle angle).

Last night I changed the angle so drops are level w/ top tube/ground, and riding in this morning - forget hands on the hoods way too far forward, plus the angle of the bars sloping toward the hoods causes a lot of pressure on my hands.
In the drops are OK, but I'm really hunched over, I measured this and in the drops my hands are 7" below the saddle.
So in this position it's either on top of the bars or at the end of the drops. Not sure I like this, might go back to the more comfortable position: (Picture Below)

If you adjust your shifters up higher on the bars, you can have both flat drops and a closer shifter placement.

I cannot ride with my bars the way you have yours pictured. Just not comfortable at all in the drop position.

Don't be so cheap! You say you saved $600 buying your Gunnar over the internet...$75 at the LBS will be GREAT money spent. Plus, you might make a friend in the process.

I recently bought a brand new 2001 bike with the stipulation that I would take it as is. Well I immediately went to another LBS and ponied up the $$ for a fitting....it was awesome, and they weren't the least bit bummed about not getting the sale, they couldn't believe what a deal I got.

I agree with Big R...These forums are only going to be so helpful...We don't know your exact body structure and can't see you on the bike....Pay the store and get the job done right.

Teski

Originally posted by BikeInMN
If you adjust your shifters up higher on the bars, you can have both flat drops and a closer shifter placement. On this particular drop bar if you raise the levers higher on the bars, the brake lever to drop spread will significantly increase. I think they're already mounted as high as they can go.
The only other thing I can suggest is to try an even shorter stem like a 60 or 70mm.......but, as others have suggested, get yourself professionally fitted.

you can might also want to work on your flexibility...

Maybe if your hoods and handlebars are level... and the drops "don't fit," maybe you should try a different set of handlebars. They make the drops a little different for each manufacturer. For instance....

http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photos/medium/TR-PRBAR.gif

This is the Ritchey Pro Road handlebar (from Nashbar (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=92&subcategory=1050&brand=&sku=8763&storetype=&estoreid=)

It has an "elevated" drop. A place where you can grab on to. I have a set of these, and I like em. The angle of the handrest of the drops is perfect. Check this out and see how it goes...

-Dan the Man-

You may want to try a different handlebar. There are big variations between models. The two dimensions other than width are drop and reach. "Reach" is the distance from the center of the clamp forward to the drops and "drop" is the vertical distance. Most handlebar manufacturers have several models with varying amounts of reach and drop. It sounds like the bars you have might have more drop than you would prefer. I personally like a bar with minimal values of both, so I use the 3T Forma (not Forma XL or Forma 2), which also has an ergo flat section on the drops. There are even some womens models with smaller dimensions. Check out the web sites of several bar companies to compare dimensions between models and you might solve your problem for not very much $$.

The $75 charge is a pretty standard thing for bike fitting. It can be a time consuming process. They weren't pissed that you bought somewhere else, they were just spouting policy. Spend the bucks so you can enjoy the cool tubes you bought.

What sort of gut do you have? With any sort of gut it is pretty uncomfortable to be in the drops (unless you have a really strange setup). So it may be you.

But, I would concentrate on the handlebars. From the pic you posted showing the front of your bike you seem to have a pretty reasonable location on your bars and levers. Top of bar is about level. But, the drops are not. I agree with the above posts which state that you should get a different bar. Bars, seats and seatposts are the most often thrown away items on a new bike. So they are generally sold with inexpensive items that are quickly replaced by most bike owners to suit their taste.