Fifty Plus (50+) - Clipless pedals that stay level?

I've been riding clipless pedals since September, and like them. Mine are a Look style, by Nashbar. The only problem is that when I'm disengaged, say at a stoplight, and I start rolling again, I have a heckuva time trying to re-engage the cleat. The heavier rear half of the pedal points down, and It's hard to kick it into a level position to click in. Sometimes it flips over, bottom side up, and sometimes my cleat misses. Often, I'll just put the foot down on the pedal without clicking in, so I can get through the intersection quickly. Then I'll play footsie with the pedal to get it lined up with my cleat. Does anyone have recommendations on clipless pedals that stay level when you're not using them?

My Bebops stay in whatever position they are in when I unclip and they're two sided so there is no upside down.

Practice. :)

My Look Keos hang with the thicker heavier side down so that when my foot kicks across the pedal it catches the front of the pedal and the cleat engages. I usually don't even have to look to clip in.

As BluesDawg says, "Practice".

Once I stop at a light I make sure the foot still clipped in is a few degrees past TDC (top dead center). That gives me maximum speed after push-off and gives me a little more time to clip in the other foot. I will admit, however, that clipping in with a Keo (or other Shimano-style) pedal is trickier than my old Crank Brother's Candy Cs that had no up or down.

The heavier rear end of the pedal drops down and turns the pedal into a big loop. You slide your foot over the loop and the nose of your cleat catches in the loop as you push down on the pedal you hear the cleat click into the pedal.

Having the pedal sit horizontally would be like recessing the cable of an aircraft carrier; the tail hook wouldn't be able to grab it as the plane landed.

You are lucky that the pedal always hangs tail down. Once you have mastered the move of pushing the nose of the pedal down while clipping in it will always be the same and you will be able to do it without looking.

For those who are unlucky enough to have the pedal stop in random places it is necessary to look or touch the pedal with the foot to determine where it is and then do whatever is appropriate to right it and clip in.

Rainycamp,
My earlier answer may have seemed flippant :), but it is really what is needed. As several others have suggested, your pedals are doing exactly what they need to do to make it easy to click in. What remains is for you to understand how to take advantage of the ready position of the pedal and place the front of the cleat into the upward pointing front of the pedal at the upper part of the crank rotation (near the 12 o'clock position). After you've done it correctly a few thousand times, you won't even be conscious of it anymore.

You could switch to Eggbeaters.
Hockey

Egg beaters here too.... just stomp and go. Speedplays awful easy to get into as well....

You could switch to Eggbeaters.
Hockey

Yeah. That's what I do when I'm not on my road bike. The right tool for the job. ;)

As mentioned by another, Speedplays are pretty much stomp and go. SInce I started using them I don't even think about clipping in. Keep in mind that not everyone likes Speedplays. The model I use has unlimited float. While I (and my knees) like this, there are those that describe it as pedaling on an ice cube.

My Bebops stay in whatever position they are in when I unclip and they're two sided so there is no upside down.

Bebops rule.

Crankbrothers Quattro. These have solved it for me.

Shimano M520's were never a problem and I got the A520's on the Boreas. Not a problem one sided and I just engage the top of the pedal- Push forward and I'm in. And If I'm not- I get through the junction- take my foot off and try again.

Just don't kick it too hard when you're clipping in. Easy does it.

Get in the saddle, stay seated, then clip in. Staying seated seems to make me more steady for clip in. Then go!

As mentioned by another, Speedplays are pretty much stomp and go. SInce I started using them I don't even think about clipping in. Keep in mind that not everyone likes Speedplays. The model I use has unlimited float. While I (and my knees) like this, there are those that describe it as pedaling on an ice cube.

Agree, agree and agree. Once you get over the float, you and your knees will love 'em.:D

Thanks for all the welcome advice. I solemnly promise to practice, practice, practice.

Thanks for all the welcome advice. I solemnly promise to practice, practice, practice.

Or you could learn to trackstand.

You could switch to Eggbeaters.
+1
Or try Quattros (http://www.crankbrothers.com/quattro.php), the road version of Eggbeaters (http://www.crankbrothers.com/eggbeater.php).

As mentioned by another, Speedplays are pretty much stomp and go. SInce I started using them I don't even think about clipping in. Keep in mind that not everyone likes Speedplays. The model I use has unlimited float. While I (and my knees) like this, there are those that describe it as pedaling on an ice cube.
I have found that it only takes a while to get used to the "ice cube" effect.

Yeah. That's what I do when I'm not on my road bike. The right tool for the job.

Yes, But...

Quattros or Candies...

Yes, But...

Quattros or Candies...

I've been trying to decide if the different little faux platforms they put on various Crank Bros. pedals make any difference at all. I can't feel any difference between riding eggbeaters and Smartys. I don't see how the Quattros would be any different. In the end you are still attached to that little pedal with that little cleat. Fine for offroad and short rides, but nothing like the large contact area of a Look cleat or similar where the cleat itself provides the supporting platform.

I've been trying to decide if the different little faux platforms they put on various Crank Bros. pedals make any difference at all. I can't feel any difference between riding eggbeaters and Smartys. I don't see how the Quattros would be any different. In the end you are still attached to that little pedal with that little cleat. Fine for offroad and short rides, but nothing like the large contact area of a Look cleat or similar where the cleat itself provides the supporting platform.

Well, my Quattros are fairly well scuffed, as are the bottoms of my shoes. Perhaps it's a function of what shoes you have.

I had the same problem with my Look Keo Carbon. Since I switched to Time RSX Carbon, 18 months ago, I have yet to miss a re-entry.

Well, my Quattros are fairly well scuffed, as are the bottoms of my shoes. Perhaps it's a function of what shoes you have.

Is that the point/ To have scuff marks? ;)

Is that the point/ To have scuff marks?

It's not a point. It is a statement.

I've been riding clipless pedals since September, and like them. Mine are a Look style, by Nashbar. The only problem is that when I'm disengaged, say at a stoplight, and I start rolling again, I have a heckuva time trying to re-engage the cleat. The heavier rear half of the pedal points down, and It's hard to kick it into a level position to click in. Sometimes it flips over, bottom side up, and sometimes my cleat misses. Often, I'll just put the foot down on the pedal without clicking in, so I can get through the intersection quickly. Then I'll play footsie with the pedal to get it lined up with my cleat. Does anyone have recommendations on clipless pedals that stay level when you're not using them?

I have had this happen when I'm in a hurry--like trying to get through an intersection. But, regardless, a level Look style pedal is not the answer.

Here's a technique that I use with my Keo Sprint pedal--I use a small rotation of the crank (by the other foot to get started) so that the pedal that I need to clip into stays in it's normal resting position (heavy end down). Then, I place the instep of my foot against the pedal, slide the pedal down and around the toes, and voilà, the pedal and cleat are in the correct position to engage.