Santana Carbon Crank Removal Question

[mburchard]

Have some 6-month old Santana carbon cranks on our tandem, went to take some stuff apart today and have a question on crank removal. First time I noticed, but timing chain side cranks do not have the thrust ring installed, and threads for same are normal (i.e., righty-thighty lefty-loosey), so even if you put a ring in it backs out with the screw holding the crank on. Tried beating the crank off, but gave up at a moderate level of banging (directly against an old extractor I put in, through Octalink spindle).

Am I missing something here?

[djsincla]

Send a close up picture of your crank but I think you are missing a crank puller and there are different versions of crank pullers - one specially for Octalink/ISIS.

I have had Ultegra and FSA Carbon - With Ultegra and 2002 Carbon FSA, I used a Park Tools CCP-4 or CWP-6 to pull the crank after removing the crank bolt. With my 2007 FSA, it has self extracting crank bolts.

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CCP%2D4

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP-6

Be careful to remember to remove the washer before inserting the crank puller.


There is nothing to "beat" on a modern bike.

[mburchard]

You are spot on. What threw me I guess was that cranks on drive side are self-extracting. Have an old square spindle puller, looks like I need to add an Octalink/ISIS version to the toolbox.

Thanks for coming back to me on this!

Marshall

[djsincla]

It makes no sense to be missing self extracting bolts on the timing side. I would follow up with your bike store or Santana to obtain two additional self extracting bolts. It's a simple addition.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13128-100_PYRIB4-3-Parts-48-Bottom-Brackets/Pyramid-Self-Extracting-Crank-Bolts.htm

... if you want to get creative, you can use one of your self extracting bolts from your drive side to extract the crank on the timing side... but then you will need to use a pin spanner to remove the self extracting bolt head from the drive side and install on the timing side:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=4&item=SPA%2D2

Following your post, I checked my bike today and found two of the four self extracting bolt heads were a little loose and I tightened them with my pin spanner. Thanks!


Dwayne.

[mburchard]

Actually I tried this, or some version of this ...

Didn't remove the thrust ring (or whatever it is called) from the drive side, but grabbed another one I had handy, and threaded it in, but it just backs out when I back out the crank bolt (same thread direction).

Aren't the threads for these things normally different? Seems weird to have normal direction threads for both the crank bolt and the thrust ring? Tandem thing? Can't imagine that a washer alone would solve the problem ...

[djsincla]

Actually I tried this, or some version of this ...

Didn't remove the thrust ring (or whatever it is called) from the drive side, but grabbed another one I had handy, and threaded it in, but it just backs out when I back out the crank bolt (same thread direction).

Aren't the threads for these things normally different? Seems weird to have normal direction threads for both the crank bolt and the thrust ring? Tandem thing? Can't imagine that a washer alone would solve the problem ...

I would say its probably just a washer missing or some grease. No special threading is needed given the arms inset onto splines and there is no movement unlike a bottom bracket or pedal - The arm cannot unscrew from the splined crank.

Dwayne

[TandemGeek]

I would say its probably just a washer missing.

+1 What he said.

If the soft brass washer that comes with a self-extractor isn't installed between the hex-headed extractor crank bolt and the cap (aka, thrust ring), the cap will usually back out with the bolt, more so with square tapers than with splined BBs like your Octalinks. Although not usually necessary, you can install your caps with a dab of Loctite 242 (blue) which will keep them snug and may keep them from becoming corroded in place if you tend to soak your bottom bracket with perspiration.

http://www.sandsmachine.com/p_bolt_1.gif