Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - So I got my new IRO hubs today (pics)

I got them and I like them. I think...

The finish:
It is nice, one small spot where the anodize did not touch. Looks like a tiny silver spot, no big deal. The hubs are gun metal gray and the color looks great.

The graphics:
They are very ugly (knew this when I bought them), but easily ignored. Might try to remove them, any suggestions that would not ruin the finish?

Build quality:
Pretty dang good. Not as nice as my Pauls, but nice. The bearings are smooth and the hardware seems tough. The machining on the hub itself is really nice, no noticeable flaws.


Here is my concern:
I ordered these for the Rob Roy GB with 130mm spacing thinking that the hub shell would be wider like 130mm hubs I have had in the past, but all they did was put spacers on the axle to make it wider. Does that seem weird to anyone else? I guess it could be nice if I ever wanted to use these in a 120mm spaced frame. I wonder if could cause any stress etc. on the hub with hard riding? I plan on using this for some off road duty like light single track and CX riding.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2016/2280945424_e0770b4b60_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3155/2280153495_f86c2ef70b_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3097/2280151951_50d7bfa353_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/2280150679_3231287b09_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3097/2280150133_899b019f35_b.jpg

word

do the bearing seals have NTN printed on them? bearing size?

thanx

ps

wider flanges would equal different chainline.

they say:

TPI
348
Taiwan
6000LU

they look great. Iro always came with long axles for making it good with 130mm rears. I don't think they'd do it that way if they felt it weren't safe. Also Soil has a great point

they say:

TPI
348
Taiwan
6000LU

hmmm...

Threads Per Inch=tpi

34.8=sprocket threading diameter

yea i don't think they'd do it if it wasn't safe. Tony is a pretty smart guy. The rear spacing on my jamie roy is 130mm and the hubs have spacers to fit. It's been working perfectly fine for me.

Yeah, that's always been my number one critique about iro. Their logo design team (probably himself) is slackin' like suuuuper hard. I think the appeal would rise much more if they had a sick logo. I've actually been drawing some up to stencil on my bike... lol

Yeah, that's always been my number one critique about iro. Their logo design team (probably himself) is slackin' like suuuuper hard. I think the appeal would rise much more if they had a sick logo. I've actually been drawing some up to stencil on my bike... lol


I kind of like the IRO logos. The simple script sort of does it for me. Simple, efficient, no frills just like the bikes he builds.

The design just looks like a bad microsoft word font. Not much substance to it. It's very choppy, too.

Choppy/cheesy.

Here is my concern:
I ordered these for the Rob Roy GB with 130mm spacing thinking that the hub shell would be wider like 130mm hubs I have had in the past, but all they did was put spacers on the axle to make it wider. Does that seem weird to anyone else? I guess it could be nice if I ever wanted to use these in a 120mm spaced frame. I wonder if could cause any stress etc. on the hub with hard riding? I plan on using this for some off road duty like light single track and CX riding.

Respacing the hub 10mm is a perfectly normal, rational, and safe thing to do. It will stress the a little axle more, but still well within range of what the axle can handle. Don't worry about it.

axles are not hollow... whats up with that ?

wider flanges would equal different chainline.

No it doesn't.


axles are not hollow... whats up with that ?

Why would it be? Most track hubs don't have hollow axles.

No it doesn't.



Why would it be? Most track hubs don't have hollow axles.


pffffft... if you are going to buy custom hubs and then have wheels built up, why not get the hollow ones ?

Sheesh.

pffffft... if you are going to buy custom hubs and then have wheels built up, why not get the hollow ones ?

They're not custom hubs. He ordered them out of an online catalog. Choosing a particular color doesn't make them "custom."

Anyway, doesn't the Rob Roy have 128 spacing, or something similar? I seem to remember that they went the Surly route and didn't commit to 130 nor 120. Of course, the Rob Roy is off the IRO website, so I can't confirm this, but I believe it to be true.

They're not custom hubs. He ordered them out of an online catalog. Choosing a particular color doesn't make them "custom."

Anyway, doesn't the Rob Roy have 128 spacing, or something similar? I seem to remember that they went the Surly route and didn't commit to 130 nor 120. Of course, the Rob Roy is off the IRO website, so I can't confirm this, but I believe it to be true.

It has 132.5mm spacing so it can be used with either 130mm or 135mm hubs.

It has 132.5mm spacing so it can be used with either 130mm or 135mm hubs.

Oh, I had the right idea, but was way off. Thanks.

No it doesn't


show me a 120mm,42.5 chainline flipflop hub with a 36mm center to flange measurement mr. engineer.
you can't! there is a reason why they are between 29-31mm center2flange, physical limitations.

they look like rebadged gran compes

my rob roy has a respaced iro hub just like that one, only it's their old hub.

i've taken it loaded offroad touring, mountain bike trails and raced it. no problems whatsoever.

these hubs will give you a standard track chainline, which is why they do it that way. as was stated, wider hubs would have given you a wider chainline.

thanks guys! I am quite happy with these. I will post some photos of the build once it gets off the ground.

P.S. I know that chainline would be different, I had a set of old Surly 130mm spaced fixed/free hubs that had a wider chainline.

they look like rebadged gran compes

this again?

this again?

did i say it was a bad thing?

already discussed (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=385439)

I kind of like the IRO logos. The simple script sort of does it for me. Simple, efficient, no frills just like the bikes he builds.

Me too. Those are very nice looking hubs.

I'd rather have no logos. Is that even possible?

Hmm, I'm a little bit confused about this. I have a pair of Formula hubs on a conversion. They are 120 mm on the rear hub, but you can space it out. I didn't have to do anything to the hubs in terms of washers/spacers and I think my frame spacing was around 125 mm in the rear. Chainline and everything are fine.

I ordered these IRO hubs for another conversion build. The frame spacing in the rear is 123 or 124 mm...must have moved a bit over the years, I guess? It is steel, so I can move the dropouts a bit.

But, my question is what is going on with all those spacers in the above pic? I don't have those on my Formula hub. I really would rather get a proper hub that fits instead of having to use a bunch of spacers. I'm just wondering why my Formula hub worked without any spacers but this IRO hub has them. Maybe it is because my frame spacing isn't quite 130mm?

I don't know, but I do know I don't want all those spacers. Anyway, the hubs are set to show up tomorrow so I guess I will see what the deal is when they arrive.

I too am making plans to get rid of the labels. Are they on both sides, Sean? I was thinking something simply like permanent marker applied every so often? I don't know...I feel like anything else might upset the anodization. Yep, Operator, I agree. I almost got another set of Formulas just to be logo-less.

Nice color

Oh wait, I just might have solved my problem and saved myself some nasty and/or confused responses...

I can probably just take the spacers off that I don't want/need and move my frame a mm or two in, I bet? The IRO hubs are made for 120 mm spacing, right...but able to go up to 130mm. If my frame is only 122 or 123 mm spacing in the rear, I can probably squeeze in to 120 mm, I think.

The hubs are the same, right? All are 120mm...but the 126's or 130's come with spacers?

Hmm, I'm a little bit confused about this. I have a pair of Formula hubs on a conversion. They are 120 mm on the rear hub, but you can space it out. I didn't have to do anything to the hubs in terms of washers/spacers and I think my frame spacing was around 125 mm in the rear. Chainline and everything are fine.


Squeezing your frame down to 120 is not ideal if it's already 126. This is why god invented spacers.



I ordered these IRO hubs for another conversion build. The frame spacing in the rear is 123 or 124 mm...must have moved a bit over the years, I guess? It is steel, so I can move the dropouts a bit.


Yes you can cold set it.




But, my question is what is going on with all those spacers in the above pic? I don't have those on my Formula hub. I really would rather get a proper hub that fits instead of having to use a bunch of spacers. I'm just wondering why my Formula hub worked without any spacers but this IRO hub has them. Maybe it is because my frame spacing isn't quite 130mm?


You said it was 125, then you said it was 123 or 124 now it's 130? Which is it



I don't know, but I do know I don't want all those spacers.

Then don't use them and ride knowing that you were too lazy to repsace the hub correctly.

They're not custom hubs. He ordered them out of an online catalog. Choosing a particular color doesn't make them "custom."


Exactly



Anyway, doesn't the Rob Roy have 128 spacing, or something similar? I seem to remember that they went the Surly route and didn't commit to 130 nor 120. Of course, the Rob Roy is off the IRO website, so I can't confirm this, but I believe it to be true.

Some of the rob roys were 132.5mm so you can either go 130 or 135.. I don't know if they were all like that though

show me a 120mm,42.5 chainline flipflop hub with a 36mm center to flange measurement mr. engineer.
you can't! there is a reason why they are between 29-31mm center2flange, physical limitations.

Who said anything about 120mm? I'm talking flange size, I have no idea what you're talking about.

Yeah, that's always been my number one critique about iro. Their logo design team (probably himself) is slackin' like suuuuper hard. I think the appeal would rise much more if they had a sick logo. I've actually been drawing some up to stencil on my bike... lol

My only beef with my Mark V is the fact I don't really like the logo and the decals are under the clearcoat, bu i'm not one to care too much about how a bike looks if I like the way it rides.

I don't think I am all that concerned about the logos. They are faint enough to be ignored. I am running the same crank types on both my bike so I guess the 42mm chainline will be easy to get right.

I have no idea what you're talking about.

Exactly!

You were talking about diameter, I was replying to the OP's comment about flange spacing and chainline when you waundered in with your reply.

Know the context first before replying. Reading comprehension.

Exactly!

You were talking about diameter, I was replying to the OP's comment about flange spacing and chainline when you waundered in with your reply.

Know the context first before replying. Reading comprehension.

That was a sarcastic reply. Learn to comprehend. Your entire post is one big hippocratic mess. Quote my post by taking out the first part of the sentence.

Leaving out context 4tW!

hippocratic mess.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5b/Star_of_life2.svg/120px-Star_of_life2.svg.png???

??

sarcasm, yeah right...

Question about these hubs...what type of cog are they compatible with? I have a 3/32" cog that came off a track hub and it doesn't seem to want to thread onto the IRO hub. Hmm, I'm wondering if I need a different type of cog? Should a newer 3/32" Surly cog be compatible?

Question about these hubs...what type of cog are they compatible with? I have a 3/32" cog that came off a track hub and it doesn't seem to want to thread onto the IRO hub. Hmm, I'm wondering if I need a different type of cog? Should a newer 3/32" Surly cog be compatible?

Yes, it should be compatible.

The design just looks like a bad microsoft word font. Not much substance to it. It's very choppy, too.

IRO

You said it was 125, then you said it was 123 or 124 now it's 130? Which is it

You can't fool the operator :D

OP: can you take those hubs apart and show the bits where the sun don't shine? That's where you can see if they really paid attention when they built the thing. Also, is it supposed to have only two bearings per hub?

I got a surly track hub to build for my RRGB, specifically 'cause I wanted 36hole+"Surly" (and the fixed-fixed or fixed-free flexibility is nice, too). Then the whole spacing thing came up. I've been debating between cold-setting the frame from 132.5-->120 (or thereabouts) vs spacing the axle, but if IRO's confident enough to add an extra 5mm on each side, sounds like that's not so bad. Should probably be good enough for (the new and improved!) NYC streets. And the point about chainline is a reasonable one.

I got a surly track hub to build for my RRGB, specifically 'cause I wanted 36hole+"Surly" (and the fixed-fixed or fixed-free flexibility is nice, too). Then the whole spacing thing came up. I've been debating between cold-setting the frame from 132.5-->120 (or thereabouts) vs spacing the axle, but if IRO's confident enough to add an extra 5mm on each side, sounds like that's not so bad. Should probably be good enough for (the new and improved!) NYC streets. And the point about chainline is a reasonable one.

That's exactly what I did to my 120mm surly hub: added spacers. It is obvious that that's not a problem. Just add equal number of identical spacers to both sides and you're peachy.

Does anyone have some pictures of the red IRO hubs?
I'd like to get a better idea of what the color really looks like.

(Didn't want to start a new thread)

I've been debating between cold-setting the frame from 132.5-->120 (or thereabouts) vs spacing the axle,

i would be extremely/extremely hesitant about cold setting an aluminum frame from 132.5 down to 120.

it's steel

I like the term 'cold-setting'.
It makes what is otherwise 'bending' sound so much better. :)

I once cold-set the **** out of a Standard Bykes frame on a giant set of doubles. :(

Liar

Hey, I had Standard Shorty like this one:
http://bmxmuseum.com/image/5bf9_3_lg.jpg