okay, so 10 years ago i weighed under 200 lbs, jogged 15-20 miles per week and occasionally rode my crappy unsuspended MTB off road. Cycling was interesting to me but i never did any real mileage but instead spent more time jogging or at the gym. Sadly, those good habits got away from me due to work commitments and fatherhood (4 kids now) and frankly my pitiful will power.

Today: im 40 yrs old, just a little under 300 lbs, do no jogging and, to boot, destroyed multiple ligaments in my left knee skiing a month go and recently had ACL reconstructive surgery. I'm about 2 weeks post surgery.

Cycling is going to be the tool that 1) gets me back down to a reasonable weight so i dont kick the bucket due to obesity and 2) gets my knee rehabbed and stable again.

That being said, i dont know squat about cycling, correct bike fit, gear to wear etc. Ive been lurking this forum and have been inspired by the many great weight loss/fitness stories.
I have a Trek mountain bike, low end model. I plan to get some slicks on it and start putting miles on the SOB as soon as i can turn the pedals and the snow/ice melts. Stationary recumbent bike in the meantime.

as a fat guy what do i need to be aware of ? im afraid my MTB is going to snap like a chicken bone due to my weight!!

Are there gear makers who make xxl or xxxl bike clothing? the thought of my ample gut covered in lycra like a sausage skin isnt a pretty one...

How many miles/week is considered a good fitness/weightloss regimine?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'd have the 'ol Trek inspected (tuned up) by your LBS and at the least have them rebuild the wheels with some quality rims and DT spokes. Make sure the bike still properly fits you as well, or else you could be tearing that knee up again. I would also consider a Thomson seatpost and upgrading your seat. The other components should get you going for now. I had a 2004 stock Trek 7200 (Comfort bike) and I rode it for 2 years and 7,500 miles @350 lbs. I maintained it every 6 months at the LBS and the only issue I had was a couple of popped spokes, broken plastic under the seat and a broken (cheap!) seat post.

Good luck and welcome (back) to cycling!

okay, so 10 years ago i weighed under 200 lbs, jogged 15-20 miles per week and occassionally rode my crappy unsuspended MTB off road. Cycling was interesting to me but i never did any real mileage but instead spent more time jogging or at the gym. Sadly, those good habits got away from me due to work commitments and fatherhood (4 kids now) and frankly my pitiful will power.

Today: im 40 yrs old, just a little under 300 lbs, do no jogging and, to boot, destroyed multiple ligaments in my left knee skiing a month go and recently had ACL reconstructive surgery. I'm about 2 weeks post surgery.

Cycling is going to be the tool that 1) gets me back down to a reasonable weight so i dont kick the bucket due to obesity and 2) gets my knee rehabbed and stable again.

That being said, i dont know squat about cycling, correct bike fit, gear to wear etc. Ive been lurking this forum and have been inspired by the many great weight loss/fitness stories.
I have a Trek mountain bike, low end model. I plan to get some slicks on it and start putting miles on the SOB as soon as i can turn the pedals and the snow/ice melts. Stationary recumbent bike in the meantime.

as a fat guy what do i need to be aware of ? im afraid my MTB is going to snap like a chicken bone due to my weight!!

Are there gear makers who make xxl or xxxl bike clothing? the thought of my amble gut covered in lycra like a sausage skin isnt a pretty one...

How many miles/week is considered a good fitness/weightloss regimine?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yes, they make xxl and xxxl jerseys and shorts. And Lycra stretches to cover most anything. The big problem isn't that fat people look unattractive in cycling gear, it's that we think we don't deserve to be athletic. Once you get over that mentality, you won't be bothered by wearing Lycra in public. Like me:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2375/2272681226_cdc394f0d5_b.jpg

Your MTB should be fine under your weight if it's in good repair. As for the number of miles you should ride in a week, that's up to you. Be careful, however; cycling is addicting.

I bought a Trek 7000 for commuting a few miles during my work day. I hit my road bike (Trek 1000) on a trainer every morning for about 30 minutes and take it out on weekends. I'm 275 and just getting over some knee problems on both knees (no surgery, but major discomfort). After 3 weeks, I'm don't know how much weight I've lost, but I can already tell a difference in the way my clothes fit. Have your LBS fit you to a bike and have some fun. I don't look great in bike shorts, but I'm getting there. My wife thinks I'll have Earl Campbell thighs before too long.

You would be surprised at how much weight your bike can take if you watch where you go. If you are nailing bumps and holes left and right, the wheels are going to have to be constantly worked on. Just be careful on where and how you ride and your bike should be fine.

Have the mountain bike checked over by a good mechanic at your LBS. So long as there are no cracks in the frame it should be ok frame wise. Have the wheels trued and ride them till they finally give out. If your easy on them, they might hold up for quite some time. Get a good fitting then get riding. You might want to look into padded shorts, if your modest you can buy mountain bike style shorts which have an outer shell resembling normal cargo shorts. Oh, and remember to stay hydrated, its very important.

When I started biking it was all I could do to complete a 4 mile loop around the neighborhood. In a few months I went from that to 74 mile ride with The Historian. Start small, work your way up, take pictures and share your adventures with us.

Bau

Have the mountain bike checked over by a good mechanic at your LBS. So long as there are no cracks in the frame it should be ok frame wise. Have the wheels trued and ride them till they finally give out. If your easy on them, they might hold up for quite some time. Get a good fitting then get riding. You might want to look into padded shorts, if your modest you can buy mountain bike style shorts which have an outer shell resembling normal cargo shorts. Oh, and remember to stay hydrated, its very important.

When I started biking it was all I could do to complete a 4 mile loop around the neighborhood. In a few months I went from that to 74 mile ride with The Historian. Start small, work your way up, take pictures and share your adventures with us.

Bau

Yes, and feel free to come to PA to ride with The Historian. :eek:

Since you've had trouble with your knee, I's suggest looking for shorter cranks. Definitely stay away from 175MM. Finding anything shorter than 170MM for a MB is tough though. Crank length should be stamped on the inner part of the arm.
You might look at this link. Even 5MM shorter made a HUGE difference for me!
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=361045

thanks everyone for the good advice. I'll try to keep the board posted on my progress.

Neil: i may take you up on the offer in that I'm from PA myself, however, the western part of the state.

I would say first off, take your bike with you to your LBS and tell them exactly what you want to do and have them see if the bike is even the right size for you and what you plan to do. If it is, then let them check out everything and be ready to spend some money to repair worn out or rusty components. If it is not the right size for you, ask about trading it in on something that is the right size, or sell it and use that money to buy something new that fits.

Are you planning on riding streets and paved trails, or are you planning on riding on dirt/single track trails for the mountain bike purpose. I ended up buying a road bike, and I am really glad that is the way I went. I thought I wanted more of a hybrid, but they asked me my plans and future goals and needs, and that removed the hybrid style of bars immediately for me.

You can also purchase used bikes on your local craigslist every day, but then again will it be a bike that fits you and your needs.

Good luck and start slow and build up. I started with a 7.5 mile ride, and a few weekends ago did 115 miles on a set of rollers in my basement. Once you get started, be careful, as the addiction gets costly and takes more of your time then you think it will.

Since you've had trouble with your knee, I's suggest looking for shorter cranks. Definitely stay away from 175MM. Finding anything shorter than 170MM for a MB is tough though. Crank length should be stamped on the inner part of the arm.
You might look at this link. Even 5MM shorter made a HUGE difference for me!
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=361045

Good link/thread. Will definitely look into this. I did rehab pre surgery and it took a while before I could make a full turn on the stationary bike. My first couple of times on it post accident I could only rock back and forth. Three weeks later I was turning it okay but getting started was painful. Anything I can do to make it easier on my knee I will consider. I havent gotten on a bike yet post surgey but I think they will put me on one today in rehab.

Wish me luck.

No more advice to give here. Just good luck and get cracking!

Welcome Uncle d, I am from the Wester PA. area myself. I live in Washington County. This morning I weighed my self and for the 1st time in at least a year I'm under 200, 199.5 to be exact. Not much below, but I'm still working on it. I'm still a Clyde though, I love this forum too much to quit reading it, and like they say, once a Clyde always a Clyde. Take care, good luck, and maybe we can ride sometime.

thanks everyone for the good advice. I'll try to keep the board posted on my progress.

Neil: i may take you up on the offer in that I'm from PA myself, however, the western part of the state.

There will be not one, but TWO Neils cycling McKeesport on June 1. Look for them. :eek:

Well, went to therapy today and got on the bike. Although I could get it around backwards a couple of times, no dice getting it around going forward. Just couldnt bend the knee enough.

It was quite painful and demoralizing....although i had the same experience pre-surgery/post accident. I'm confident I'll get it around next session.

fingers crossed.

leg power discrepancy/difference threads

http://www.cyclingforums.com/t-450841-15-1.html

http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&safe=off&q=acl+rehabilitation+cycling+forum



there's also this option

[shill warning]
http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&safe=off&q=acl+rehabilitation+cycling+forum+powercranks
[/shill warning]

Something else to check is the seat height. Every little bit too low will cause you to bend the knee that much more.
Basically, you should be able to extend your leg fully with your HEELS on the pedal, without rocking your hips.

You've come to the right place! Good to have you aboard. :beer:

Your mtb should be fine for getting started, especially in the winter. Those older bikes are pretty tough. Just buy a good pump and max out the tires before each ride; it'll protect the rims. Bring a cell phone in case you need to call your support vehicle. ;)

Start working with your LBSs on getting a new bike. Shop all of them, ask questions, get a feel for what's out there. When the whether clears, ride different kinds of bikes and get back to us with your thoughts.

Folks around here seem to think very highly of Aerotech designs clothing. They offer larger sizes and good quality at a decent price. (Where's Tom when you need an Aerotech endorsement?)

Good luck. A lot of people have lost a lot of weight riding and we are a pretty supportive bunch here.

well, two days ago i was finally able to turn the crank over on a stationary cycle. it took a good deal of rocking back and forth, my face turned about 4 shades of red/purple from the effort but i did it....sky is the limit now assuming the new ACL holds up.

one small step for man...one giant leap...yada yada yada...

Something else to check is the seat height. Every little bit too low will cause you to bend the knee that much more.
Basically, you should be able to extend your leg fully with your HEELS on the pedal, without rocking your hips.

not there yet on heels being flat...its just too hard.

I had to point the toe down in the strap to make it happen and rock a bit in the saddle.

not there yet on heels being flat...its just too hard.

I had to point the toe down in the strap to make it happen and rock a bit in the saddle.

Rocking in the saddle is an indication your saddle is too high. If you keep doing it you might damage nerves in an area guys don't like to have damaged nerves in. Ask me how I now this. :mad:

Rocking in the saddle is an indication your saddle is too high. If you keep doing it you might damage nerves in an area guys don't like to have damaged nerves in. Ask me how I now this. :mad:

It is an indication for people with somewhat "normal" knees. For THIS poster, he's just trying to be ale to turn a complete revolution of the crank! It's probably a good "temporary" solution.

IF you have platform pedals, use the arch of your foot on the bad side, instead of the ball.

I think once you are able to start turning a few rev;s, things will improve rapidly. Just don't overdo it!
EDIT:


Maybe something like this would help as a temporary solution- Just use lower gears to compensate for the loss of leverage. I'd discuss these with your LBS to make sure there aren't any issues in using them. You might have to give up the triple chain rings or??? Maybe a "crank guy" can chime in.
http://www.blueskycycling.com/view_product.php?pid=4187&ref=GPS&utm_source=GoogleProductSearch&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleProductSearch

I'd think about a shorter set of crank arms as well. That would reduce the amount of bend necessary in the knee and be more conducive to higher RPM and less knee stress, as well.

It is an indication for people with somewhat "normal" knees...

Please explain? In my experience rocking hips is almost always the result of a saddle that is much too high and was the reason I almost destroyed mine.

...For THIS poster, he's just trying to be ale to turn a complete revolution of the crank! It's probably a good "temporary" solution.

IF you have platform pedals, use the arch of your foot on the bad side, instead of the ball...

Why would you do this? Everything I've read about cycling is to keep the ball of the foot over, and as close as possible to, the pedal axle.

...I think once you are able to start turning a few rev;s, things will improve rapidly. Just don't overdo it!
EDIT:


Maybe something like this would help as a temporary solution-
http://www.blueskycycling.com/view_product.php?pid=4187&ref=GPS&utm_source=GoogleProductSearch&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleProductSearch

BECAUSE the WHOLE POINT IS that currently the poster only has a limited range of motion in his KNEE!
Certainly, rocking the hips indicates the seat is too high, but it might help allow him to get his knee "over the top"! Same with using the arch of the foot, which basically shortens the leg. If the leg is too short on the down stroke, so what. He has the other leg to keep the crank turning.

As I said- TEMPORARY! Once he gets to the point that he can complete some revs, he should show vast improvement within a week! He can then go to a "more normal" adjustments.

It is an indication for people with somewhat "normal" knees. For THIS poster, he's just trying to be ale to turn a complete revolution of the crank! It's probably a good "temporary" solution.


Grinding your pelvis into the saddle is a "good" solution? As for having 'normal' knees, I probably have more in common with the OP that you suspect.

BECAUSE the WHOLE POINT IS that currently the poster only has a limited range of motion in his KNEE!
Certainly, rocking the hips indicates the seat is too high, but it might help allow him to get his knee "over the top"! Same with using the arch of the foot, which basically shortens the leg. If the leg is too short on the down stroke, so what. He has the other leg to keep the crank turning.

As I said- TEMPORARY! Once he gets to the point that he can complete some revs, he should show vast improvement within a week! He can then go to a "more normal" adjustments.

It took a week of rocking on my saddle to produce numbness that took more than 2 months to go away. The cure might be worse than the disease.