Bicycle Mechanics - how to remove stack bolts sugino xd crankset?

I'm trying to replace the chainring on a sugino xd crankset. I bought the CNW-2 park tool. I removed 4 out of the 5 bolts no problem. However, the 5th bolt is located directly behind the crankarm and the recess is not big enought to fit the tool in there. Anyone ever encounter this before? why in the hell did sugino design this so the arm of the spider is directly parallel with the crank? Any ideas how to get this one off?

I built my own tool for that very purpose from a piece of steel sheet. You could modify a piece of some old cutlery, for example.

Good question. I'm almost certain my wife's bike has an XD that I put on there and I vaguely remember that this problem was not too hard to fix. Perhaps you can loosen the bolt from behind, using the park tool?

This is what I usually do with my Sugino crankset:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o197/old_fool/bikeparts/DSCN3313.jpg
The bolt under the crank is always upside-down.


EDIT: I just noticed your thread in SSFG. I was confused like hell for a few seconds hahah. "I thought I posted in this thread - was it deleted?"

Yep, that's what made it easier on my wife's bike. Now I remember.

This is what I usually do with my Sugino crankset:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o197/old_fool/bikeparts/DSCN3313.jpg
The bolt under the crank is always upside-down.


EDIT: I just noticed your thread in SSFG. I was confused like hell for a few seconds hahah. "I thought I posted in this thread - was it deleted?"

Thats exaclty what the one I have looked like. The problem i had was getting the park tool under the bolt you have flipped to hold the slots on the washer

Thats exaclty what the one I have looked like. The problem i had was getting the park tool under the bolt you have flipped to hold the slots on the washer

I know. And for that I built my own tool from a piece of steel sheet.

Anyway, yesterday I discovered an alternative method: take an L-shaped hex wrench size 4. Put the shorter side of the tool under the bolt (it will fit only in a certain angle of the tool). Move the longer side away from the crankarm - this will make a tight contact between the bolt and the tool. As you turn the bolt from the other side, the slot will end up under one of the edges of the hex wrench. At this point add a bit more torque and you should be able to block the slotted part of the bolt, while unscrewing the other. I am struggling with the language here, but do you understand what I'm trying to say? If you do, please correct my wording. This is info I'd put in the "Hints" thread.

I was successful in loosening the bolt through sheer brute force, although I now have 3 fingers with serious gashes in them after my hand scraped along the chainwheel when I applied enough force to the allen wrench.


Shortly therafter, I discovered there is a way to reach the backside of that bolt with the park tool. If you go in on an angle from the side and rotate the washer, you can get the tool to catch. You kinda have to pivot the tool against the spider.


I just hope I didn't ruin the back of the bolt---but the front end seemed to thread on so I hope i'm ok.

I have assembled and disassembled many Sugino cranks, and never needed the special tool... What causes the problem to need to hold the back of the chainring bolts?

I have always been able to loosen, then just apply pressure with my finger to allow me to remove the bolt, and I have always had success tightening as well.

The reason I ask is, if this is a common issue, I should get a tool to keep on hand.

I have assembled and disassembled many Sugino cranks, and never needed the special tool... What causes the problem to need to hold the back of the chainring bolts?

I have always been able to loosen, then just apply pressure with my finger to allow me to remove the bolt, and I have always had success tightening as well.

The reason I ask is, if this is a common issue, I should get a tool to keep on hand.

Unless you hold the groove in back in place, when you turn your allen key in front, all you are doing is spinning the bolt---it doesn't tighten past finger tightness unless the back peice is held (or so I've been told).

Edit: I may however, be horribly misinformed

For tightening, I always just hold my finger on it until it stops spinning. By then the friction has held it as I tighten down with an Allen wrench. I have never had one not tighten for me, but I could imagine it would spin if the nut and chainring were both smooth enough (or lubed).

I guess it wouldn't hurt to have a tool ready for if I need it... since that is a good point, and I know it is too narrow a slot to use a screw driver.