Commuting - One bike to rule them all...

and I can`t decide which one :(

So I`ve been searching for a wicked bike that I can use for my daily commute as well as something I can use for entry level road racing.

Here`s what I`m thinking about getting:

2007 Giant TCR
Eggbeaters and mountain bike shoes

however... I`ve also been looking at the Giant OCR3 (Cheaper but also way heavier and from what my LBS salesguy tells me, not worth spending lots of $$ on upgrades)

and now I`ve been reading a lot about the Surly Cross Check, and while I realize it isn`t really considered a pure bred race bike per say, it looks like one could set a fairly aggressive seating position on it and with the addition of some killer road tires and some lighter parts could be good for both.
However it`s steel so I imagine it`s pretty heavy.

Does anyone have a commuter/racer and make a suggestion as to what direction I should be looking?
Or does anyone use a TCR for both racing and commuting? or the other bikes I`ve mentioned?

Please help me...I can`t make up my mind.:o

IMO, race bikes make poor commuters. They typically don't accommodate fenders, rear racks, or tires wider than 25cm, and they usually aren't built sturdy enough to withstand the daily rigors of commuting. I think your best bet is to go with a Surly Crosscheck or a Salsa Casseroll and keep your eye on Craigslist for a used race bike. It's good to have both. Just my 2-cents...

IMO, race bikes make poor commuters. They typically don't accommodate fenders, rear racks, or tires wider than 25cm, and they usually aren't built sturdy enough to withstand the daily rigors of commuting. I think your best bet is to go with a Surly Crosscheck or a Salsa Casseroll and keep your eye on Craigslist for a used race bike. It's good to have both. Just my 2-cents...

I hear you, but the problem is that I can`t afford both, and I won`t really be doing any winter riding with the new bike. I have a beater frankenbike for that. Are road bikes really flimsy? I can see them being a little more prone to breakage due to their design (speed and light weigh over durability) but I would imagine that they are still pretty tough.
The racks and bags aren`t too much of an issue either. If I have a heavy load I`ll just bring frankenbike instead of the fancy roadie.

As long as you can accept that your one bike is going to be a compromise. It will never be a great commuter nor a great racer. If you can live with that, then you're all set.

I'm not sure how much you are willing to spend but check out the Jamis Supernova. 18.5 pound cyclocross bike with sram rival gear. It would make a decent racer with some narrow street tires. It also has eyelets so adding a rack for commuting wouldn't be a problem.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08supernova.html

There is also the Nova Pro that is a little less money.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08novapro.html

abbynemmy,
thanks for the links, I`m going to have to check those out more closely.
First to find a Jamis dealer in the city so I can go for a ride.

I've been really happy with my 2006 Marin Lucas Valley compact. Light, speedy and has eyelets for fenders and panniers.
http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_2006/html/bikes/bike_specs/specs_lucas_valley_compact.html

Are road bikes really flimsy?

No, that's just a myth perpetuated by MTBers and fans of 50 pound Dutch bikes or gaspipe cruisers.

You may want to watch the potholes and curb jumping with one of those 14 lb ultra lights, but who in real life would commute on one of those anyway? In the typical 17 or 18 lb range, as long as you're not using low-spoke-count wheels, you'll be fine.

No, that's just a myth perpetuated by MTBers and fans of 50 pound Dutch bikes or gaspipe cruisers.

You may want to watch the potholes and curb jumping with one of those 14 lb ultra lights, but who in real life would commute on one of those anyway? In the typical 17 or 18 lb range, as long as you're not using low-spoke-count wheels, you'll be fine.

That`s kind of what I figured. I think the TCR comes in at around that weight, plus it doesn`t have a super low spoke count.

IMO, race bikes make poor commuters. They typically don't accommodate fenders, rear racks, or tires wider than 25cm, and they usually aren't built sturdy enough to withstand the daily rigors of commuting. I think your best bet is to go with a Surly Crosscheck or a Salsa Casseroll and keep your eye on Craigslist for a used race bike. It's good to have both. Just my 2-cents...

I just got done with a race today. I also commute. I agree... and I'll add that commuter bikes make poor racing bikes too.

If you are intent on one bike (I was forced into it too for financial reasons when I was a student, though I only did group rides, I didn't race), get a basic aluminum or steel framed road bike with decent components (anything over sora really) and ride with a backpack for your commutes. Find a bike that can accept fenders (most can with "a little" finagling) and take the fenders off when you race. Use 23mm tires (you'll need this for the fenders to fit) and get a set of 32 spoke wheels; they'll stand up to rigors of commuting better.

But, if you are just going with one bike for aesthetic reasons, I'd recommend you not and get two separate bikes for the different purposes. Racing/training and commuting are really two different worlds and the bikes really do come out differently. You can get one to do both, but it will be optimized for neither and you might, in the end, actually end up spending more money trying to keep a race grade bike maintained in the face of constant commuting miles.

Moreover, you are a bit late to the game for racing this season. Go with a road bike which is commuting oriented right now and start riding with a club. You can see where your fitness level is and what it's like to ride in groups, and you'll still get your commuting done. My commuting road bike is a bit of a mongral, but if I had to do it from scratch, I'd get the Surly Pacer. It is built like an "old-school" road racing bike, which means it has room for a bit bigger tire and fenders, but it will work for racing as well and it would probably make a good entry bike into both worlds.

No, that's just a myth perpetuated by MTBers and fans of 50 pound Dutch bikes or gaspipe cruisers.

You may want to watch the potholes and curb jumping with one of those 14 lb ultra lights, but who in real life would commute on one of those anyway? In the typical 17 or 18 lb range, as long as you're not using low-spoke-count wheels, you'll be fine.

1+ Yup. My racing bike is pretty sturdy.

I just got done with a race today. I also commute. I agree... and I'll add that commuter bikes make poor racing bikes too.

If you are intent on one bike (I was forced into it too for financial reasons when I was a student, though I only did group rides, I didn't race), get a basic aluminum or steel framed road bike with decent components (anything over sora really) and ride with a backpack for your commutes. Find a bike that can accept fenders (most can with "a little" finagling) and take the fenders off when you race. Use 23mm tires (you'll need this for the fenders to fit) and get a set of 32 spoke wheels; they'll stand up to rigors of commuting better.

But, if you are just going with one bike for aesthetic reasons, I'd recommend you not and get two separate bikes for the different purposes. Racing/training and commuting are really two different worlds and the bikes really do come out differently. You can get one to do both, but it will be optimized for neither and you might, in the end, actually end up spending more money trying to keep a race grade bike maintained in the face of constant commuting miles.

Moreover, you are a bit late to the game for racing this season. Go with a road bike which is commuting oriented right now and start riding with a club. You can see where your fitness level is and what it's like to ride in groups, and you'll still get your commuting done. My commuting road bike is a bit of a mongral, but if I had to do it from scratch, I'd get the Surly Pacer. It is built like an "old-school" road racing bike, which means it has room for a bit bigger tire and fenders, but it will work for racing as well and it would probably make a good entry bike into both worlds.

Believe me, it`s just a financial issue. If I could afford both I would buy a nice roadie and a nice commuter...however, one has to do at least for this year and I`d rather go with a nice road bike and wear a backpack.

Yeah, I`m talking more of doing club rides than actual races, however there are a couple of ``newbie`` events that come up in late August early September that I would like to take part in.

Many 700c bikes can accomodate fenders. I use SKS Raceblade fenders, which clip on to the bike thus negating the need for eyelets, on my Jamis Sputnik, and they work quite well for my short commute. I also use a nice, waterproof backpack (Ortlieb Flight) or messenger bag to carry stuff in.

Are road bikes really flimsy? I can see them being a little more prone to breakage due to their design (speed and light weigh over durability) but I would imagine that they are still pretty tough.


Road bikes flimsy? Not necessarily. But racing bikes tend to emphasize weight savings over durability. In general, you will find steel, non-racing road bikes to be more durable than carbon fiber and aluminum racing bikes. And a modern steel frame really isn't much heavier than an aluminum one.

Maybe you should consider purchasing an inexpensive single-speed or fixed gear bike for commuting, and a racing bike too?

I like the idea of a cyclocross bike as a "do it all" type of bike. I have a Specialized Tricross Comp double and it works very well for commuting and could be used for road racing fairly easily. It's just under 20lbs, but I think it's a little pricey. I'd look at some of the other aluminum cross bikes out there that can be picked up cheaper. Most non-race specific cross bikes have rack & fender mounts. Pretty good components, fairly light and very, very tough.

The Cross Check is a great commuter, but there's no way I'd use it for a road racing bike. The geometry is too slack, and it's too heavy compared to the field of 853 steel, aluminum, and full carbon bikes out there.
I've got a Cross Check and I use it for my all-rounder, except for me that means commuting, errands, and long distance. Racks, 45mm fenders, and I've run up to 35mm studded tires on it... But at a shade under 30 pounds, a race machine it ain't.

Now, a full carbon cross bike might be a better choice for you for commuting and racing, although it's not going to give you the best of either world.
The TCR is a good racer, but unless you're willing to go with raceblade partial fenders, you're not fitting anything on there (except maybe those carbon fiber Berthoud fenders which are about $250!) Race bikes aren't great for commuting, IMO, because of the steep angles and aggressive position plus you can't really put racks and fenders on them. But, if your commute is short enough and you're willing to do without racks or fenders, then I say go for it. The worst risk you're running is flatting out if you ride cruddy roads.

This type of bicycle was fairly common prior to the late 1980s (when racing frame angles were trending towards steeper angles and shorter chainstays).

My first racing bike was a mid-1980s vintage Trek 640 with a Reynolds 531 lugged frame and Campagnolo Nuevo Record components. Trek called it a "Sport-Touring" bike because it was designed for anything from entry-level racing to light touring. It had enough clearance for fenders, and braze-ons for a rear rack. It had a shorter wheelbase than a loaded touring bicycle. I raced on it for several years until I decided to sell it so I could buy a used Sannino from another racer I knew. At first I thought the Sannino was a lot of fun with its 75-degree angles and super-short chainstays. It was great for criteriums, but compared to the Trek I felt like it absolutely hammered me on the longer road races. Later I switched to a Pinarello that was more comfortable, but I never have forgotten how great that Trek was for long distances. It had responsive steering and acceleration... definitely more flex in the bottom bracket; but I could still sprint and climb on it effectively (well...I never was that good a climber, actually).

I stopped racing in my early 20s, but still enjoyed riding a racing bike for fun and exercise. I still ride the Pinarello today, but I would love to get another sport-touring bike. I've also seen them described as "Club Racers."

Independent Fabrications makes such a bike:
http://www.ifbikes.com/frames2/steelclubracer.shtml

And Rivendell does too:
http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/bicycle_models#product=none
(click on the link to the Rambouillet)

As does A.N.T.:
http://www.antbikemike.com/clubracing.html

I'm sure there are less expensive alternatives out there (and hey...if it's going to be your only bike why not go big?), but these are all bicycles I covet... especially the Rambouillet because of the lugs. I have a Rivendell Atlantis that is their loaded/touring all-rounder frame; and even it is pretty fast and fun when I take all the bags off. Definitely not a racer though.

I think cross frames have replaced the sport-touring/club racing frames for many manufacturers, and you could probably do well with one of them. My sister-in-law just bought a Jamis Nova cross bike that she is going to commute on. If you replaced the knobbies with skinnier road tires it would probably fit the bill.

Whatever you buy make sure you can raise the handlebars to a reasonably comfortable level for commuting. You can always lower them for racing. By the way, you get extra style points for winning sprints and climbs if you leave the rear-rack attached while you're racing (just remove the commuter bags so they don't slow you down).

Sean

Please help me...I can`t make up my mind.:o

How about whatever you can find used, for a good price, in your size...

With a 10 minute commute, it really doesn't matter what you buy from that standpoint. My only concern is that a race bike would likely spend quite a few months hanging on the wall where you're at.

I'll disagree with that. I ride a 2002 Trek 5200 with rack and full fenders. How could a bike that does the TDF not be sturdy enough for my humble commute? The carbon works...and it does rain.


IMO, race bikes make poor commuters. They typically don't accommodate fenders, rear racks, or tires wider than 25cm, and they usually aren't built sturdy enough to withstand the daily rigors of commuting.

+1 Ever tried to haul a 65 lb fully loaded bike up a couple of flights of steps? OOOF

No, that's just a myth perpetuated by MTBers and fans of 50 pound Dutch bikes or gaspipe cruisers.

You may want to watch the potholes and curb jumping with one of those 14 lb ultra lights, but who in real life would commute on one of those anyway? In the typical 17 or 18 lb range, as long as you're not using low-spoke-count wheels, you'll be fine.

I'll disagree with that. I ride a 2002 Trek 5200 with rack and full fenders. How could a bike that does the TDF not be sturdy enough for my humble commute? The carbon works...and it does rain.

Heh... I also have a Trek 5200. And I have a couple of fixed gear bikes, a Salsa Casseroll, and a Surly LHT. The 5200 is my last choice for commuting.

I don't know how you got full fenders on the 5200... there is very little clearance for that and it doesn't have eyelets. And how did you get a rack on there? It doesn't have eyelets. Are you using a seatpost rack?

I, like many other posters, don't have the money to commute on full carbon. The replacement cost of the 5200 is quite high, and the frame seems fragile to me. The bike is a theft magnet. The race geometry is ill-suited for commuting. But I guess you can commute on most any bike. Plenty of folks make do with MTBs with knobbies because they don't know any better.

Well, if you're okay with the idea of cantilver brakes, a light, aluminum, "Euro-style" cross bike might be a decent compromise. I'll be doing some road racing on my cross bike this spring and summer since I can't afford both a cross bike and a road bike for now. By "Euro-style" I mean it should take 130 mm (road) hubs in the rear, and shouldn't have a BB that is raised much beyond that of a road race bike. Cross bikes are pretty flexible machines, and there should be no problems keeping up with your local fast club rides/beginner races with one, provided the right gearing and tires. Then you could even give 'cross a try in the fall, and go off road for some real fun ;).

However this may not be the best option for you. If I had to compromise it would be in the commuting direction. A commuting bike is simply one that you comute on, harder to make compromises with a race bike. And it sound sliek you already have a frankenbike for the really nasty days. The only concern then is locking up a really nice bike. Depends on your situation.

Cyclo crossers make lousy road racers, fine commuters. The bottom bracket is placed higher to keep the pedals further from obstacles in a cyclo-x race. This creates a top heavy bike that always feels like you are in a rain rut. Like others have said a "sport-touring" bike would be fine for club rides and commuting.

I'm pretty sure the One Bike to Rule Them All would be the Pugsley with the 4" tires.

Sounds like you should get a Surly Pacer. Road geometry, but steel frame. That or an older steel race bike. They aren't hard to find used and steel will take more abuse than other materials.

Believe me, it`s just a financial issue. If I could afford both I would buy a nice roadie and a nice commuter...however, one has to do at least for this year and I`d rather go with a nice road bike and wear a backpack.


That's what I would do too. In my opinion a race bike is great for commuting as long as the weather is nice. Once the weather turns sour, I definitely appreciate using a bike outfitted specifically for that purpose. But if I had to go with one I'd take the race bike and resign myself to more frequent and intense maintenance to keep it running smooth.

You might consider looking for a really nice slightly used steel or ti racing bike. Buying used has risks but could allow you to step up to a much better quality machine than you could afford new.

Robert

What is your budget for this purchase anyways?

I purchased a Cannondale Synapse because I like to go fast on the weekends and it has all the braze-ons for racks and fenders. I also like the second set of brakes up top when I'm riding in traffic or around lots of people...I put campus pedals on it and ride most of the time in mtb shoes with spd's.
price~$1000
2c

I had a simliar range of uses when I was putting together the current build. Commuting, light touring, triathalons, and an alleycat race here and there. I decided on a 700c Cyclocross bike with disc brakes, as commuting is priority #1. Should be fun showing up to a tri with disc brakes and not disc wheels, but whatever! It's going to be a compromise, but I just decided what was most important (commuting), and then made the component choices with the other things in mind if possible (Rival Group, Spinergy wheels, etc). Frameset is in customs AFAIK, so we'll see how it comes together in a week or so!

Cyclo crossers make lousy road racers, fine commuters. The bottom bracket is placed higher to keep the pedals further from obstacles in a cyclo-x race. This creates a top heavy bike that always feels like you are in a rain rut. Like others have said a "sport-touring" bike would be fine for club rides and commuting.

Most of the raised BB on modern cross bikes is due to the larger tires. Slap 700 x 23s on there and the difference disappears. There aren't really any obstacles on a modern, Euro-style cross course that would be more easily navigated with a high BB.

Most of the raised BB on modern cross bikes is due to the larger tires. Slap 700 x 23s on there and the difference disappears. There aren't really any obstacles on a modern, Euro-style cross course that would be more easily navigated with a high BB.

The difference in BB height from a CX to road bike isn't from the tires. The measurement of BB drop is from axle center to BB center, not ground to BB. A CX bike has less BB drop, usually by 2-3cm from a traditional sport-touring bike.

That's what I would do too. In my opinion a race bike is great for commuting as long as the weather is nice. Once the weather turns sour, I definitely appreciate using a bike outfitted specifically for that purpose. But if I had to go with one I'd take the race bike and resign myself to more frequent and intense maintenance to keep it running smooth.

You might consider looking for a really nice slightly used steel or ti racing bike. Buying used has risks but could allow you to step up to a much better quality machine than you could afford new.

Robert

Going O/T a moment here...

Robert, I waited almost a year on the hold list at my library to read Art of Urban Cycling. I liked it so much, I bought three copies of the second edition, Art of Cycling--one to keep, and two I donated to the library to reduce the hold times. Thanks for writing this book!

The difference in BB height from a CX to road bike isn't from the tires. The measurement of BB drop is from axle center to BB center, not ground to BB. A CX bike has less BB drop, usually by 2-3cm from a traditional sport-touring bike.

Fair enough, but I a lot of modern cross bikes do not have a 2-3cm raised bottom bracket over road race bikes. Take a look at the S-works Tarmac SL-2 versus the S-Works Tricross: In any given size the Tricross has nothing more than a .5mm higher BB. In sizes 56 and 54 the BB drop is exactly the same. Is the Tarmac's BB too high for road racing?

Anyways, I've dragged this way off-topic, and a 'cross bike may well not be the best for the OP's needs.

Cyclo crossers make lousy road racers, fine commuters. The bottom bracket is placed higher to keep the pedals further from obstacles in a cyclo-x race. This creates a top heavy bike that always feels like you are in a rain rut.

What is a "rain rut?"

I swear by flat bar road bikes. Cheap. Easy. Convenient. Most importantly, NO BRIFTERS! :D

Don't try to cover both bases with one bike. Get a racing bike for your racing and a commuting bike for your commuting. A commuting bike will cost less than one of your racing bike's wheels.

What is your budget for this purchase anyways?

My budget is around $1000.

The Cannondale Synapse looks pretty nice. It reminds me of the Giant OCR3 in the sense that it has some entry level components on it and is pretty reasonably priced. I think I may go with an option like that, but I have to do more looking.

These are all very good suggestions everyone. Thanks for helping me out, and keep the ideas rolling!

In this situation, I think you really have to ask yourself which is more important, racing or commuting? Where will most of you riding hours come from? In my opinion, there is nothing worse than trying to race on a bike that hinders your performance. You don't (usually) have to worry about getting dropped on your commute, but you will get dropped--even on some local rides--when racing if you're not careful. I would get a race bike and make it work as a commuter. So many people talk about commuting as if you can hardly do it without a specific commuting rig, but whether you have a NEXT or a decked out Sparta or a Madone, you can make it work. With a little ingenuity and some tips from people around here you can turn any race bike into a "commuter". But, I would argue that it's more difficult to turn a commuting oriented bike--even a cyclocross-- into a good racer.
As for toughness, a lot of it is in the wheelset. Look at Paris-Roubaix (not the clip of Hincapie breaking his fork and bones). Try to find a Ti frame and you'll be alright in the local crits and you'll make it to work without too much suffering. Besides as mentioned, the lighter the bike, the easier to move it around, carry it upstairs, etc.

Believe me, it`s just a financial issue. If I could afford both I would buy a nice roadie and a nice commuter...however, one has to do at least for this year and I`d rather go with a nice road bike and wear a backpack.

Yeah, I`m talking more of doing club rides than actual races, however there are a couple of ``newbie`` events that come up in late August early September that I would like to take part in.

Just my opinion, but any road/racing bike can be used to commute. The opposite is not necessarily true. Go with what you can afford to get your racing off the ground. Then ride it wherever you need to. I ride road bikes day in/day out.

Just keep in mind that you will be wearing it out faster and plan your upgrade accordingly. One year is not a long time and you can certainly do both.

Going O/T a moment here...

Robert, I waited almost a year on the hold list at my library to read Art of Urban Cycling. I liked it so much, I bought three copies of the second edition, Art of Cycling--one to keep, and two I donated to the library to reduce the hold times. Thanks for writing this book!

Hey thanks! That's one of the coolest things I've heard in a long time. In fact it is perhaps the coolest thing I have ever heard.

Robert

My budget is around $1000. ...


Should be enough to get ya a slightly used high-end bike that would be in the $4000 range new. Just throwin that out there.

What is a "rain rut?"

I swear by flat bar road bikes. Cheap. Easy. Convenient. Most importantly, NO BRIFTERS! :D

Don't try to cover both bases with one bike. Get a racing bike for your racing and a commuting bike for your commuting. A commuting bike will cost less than one of your racing bike's wheels.

I think that the value of all my bikes is less than a set of top of the line racing wheels.

A high percentage of my riding is commuting and utilitarian so most of my bikes tend to be set up to serve that need... I have a dedicated mtb for xc and singletrack riding, a few touring bikes , and am building up a vintage race bike.

No single bike could cover all my riding needs although my cross conversion comes pretty close as it is a capable road bike, is great for commuting and longer rides, and handles the xc and smoother singletrack nearly as well as my hard tail. I actually built the bike up so it could do these things.

But it does not go nearly as fast as my road bike, is not built for jumps and drops, and has multiple gears... and I need my fixed gear bicycles.

No, that's just a myth perpetuated by MTBers and fans of 50 pound Dutch bikes or gaspipe cruisers.

You may want to watch the potholes and curb jumping with one of those 14 lb ultra lights, but who in real life would commute on one of those anyway? In the typical 17 or 18 lb range, as long as you're not using low-spoke-count wheels, you'll be fine. I agree. With all due respect to the OP, if Robbie McEwen can't snap such bikes, neither can you.

I pass a guy on a Pugsley nearly every day on my commute... I seem to be able handle the winter conditions just as well as he does on a bike that weighs about the same, is a fixed gear, and runs 2 inch semi slick tyres.

Okay guys,
Thanks to all of you for responding. I think I am going to have to go with a road/race bike and just ride my beater when the weather turns ugly.
I was down at the LBS today drooling over a 2007 TCR yet again, and was all set to put down a deposit to hold it for me until next Wed. when I get my paycheck and can afford the rest...however they didn`t have my size...they sold it last week :(
However, I did some looking around and found a nice Devinci, that while it`s not quite in the same class as the TCR it`s still a pretty nice bike. I`m going to go back on Monday and take it for another test ride. (it`s cold and snowy here but it`s supposed to be nice by Monday, and hopefully I`ll be able to find some dry pavement to try it out on).
I also found a used TCR Comp 1 second hand (about 500 miles total on it) on ebay that I`m bidding on. I doubt I`ll win the auction though `cause the price is set really low and there are still two days left before it closes.
I`ll let everyone know what happens.
In the meantime has anyone had any experience with Devinci Bikes? All I know is that they`re a small Canadian company. The parts seem to be pretty decent but it`s quite heavy compared to the TCR.

I purchased a Cannondale Synapse because I like to go fast on the weekends and it has all the braze-ons for racks and fenders. I also like the second set of brakes up top when I'm riding in traffic or around lots of people...I put campus pedals on it and ride most of the time in mtb shoes with spd's.
price~$1000
2c

This is the very bike I'm looking at as a rack & fender-compatible road bike.

Can you tell me the widest tire you can fit on this bike when you have fenders installed? And what size is your bike?

I commute on my road (race) bike every day unless it's snowing...in which case it's the xc mountain bike.

For the road bike, just get a seatpost rack and/or wear a backpack or messenger bag. I've been doing this for years and it works just fine for me. Great thing is, if I want to head out for a group ride after work, all I have to do is leave my pack and seatpost rack in the office or in a buddy's car until the ride is over.

On a limited budget, you've got to make some compromises, and for me that meant no fenders//racks/etc that would be common on a dedicated commuter. Just my personal preference.

Id buy a used 80s sport touring bike for around 100-250 bucks for commuting, and then use the remaining 800 hundred for a really nice used racing bike. You can get a REAAAAL nice bike for 800 used if you take your time to look around, I got a fully DA 7700 equiped cross bike for less than 6. The sport tourer is the perfect commuter as its pretty fast but still has room for fenders / light racks, and is comfortable too. Thats my setup anyways *shrug*

My budget is around $1000.

The Cannondale Synapse looks pretty nice. It reminds me of the Giant OCR3 in the sense that it has some entry level components on it and is pretty reasonably priced. I think I may go with an option like that, but I have to do more looking.

These are all very good suggestions everyone. Thanks for helping me out, and keep the ideas rolling!

With about the same budget I faced about the same problem last spring; my solution was to buy a Giant Boulder SE, fitted with slicks and fenders, for $350. Now its my commuter, grocery getter, etc, and I've put 3000 miles on it since July, and less than 1000 on the car.

But I also love the open road and centuries and consider racing again...I didn't really have enough left for a decent road bike so I decided to piece one together. Starting with a good Scattante frame and carbon fork, and a decent set of wheels, I put together the rest from some deals, some spare parts, and some lightly used Ebay stuff for $650. It weighs out at just under 20 lbs and is a very nice ride.

The real difference that I see, and the need for two bikes over one, is that a bike set up for racing in a full kit will never be comfortable to ride in street clothes, and a bike you can ride in street clothes just won't work for fast long distances. I've taken the Giant on rides up to 95 miles in the hills, for instance, but its ridiculous doing hills and headwinds without drop bars, as ridiculous as it would be running errands around town (my town, at least) in full lycra. Two bikes is the best solution, and I think it can be done ok with $1000.

imo, race bikes make poor commuters. They typically don't accommodate fenders, rear racks, or tires wider than 25cm, and they usually aren't built sturdy enough to withstand the daily rigors of commuting. I think your best bet is to go with a surly crosscheck or a salsa casseroll and keep your eye on craigslist for a used race bike. It's good to have both. Just my 2-cents...

+1

no one has taken it up, so i will second SURLY PACER. that wil be a much better racer that a cross check and can be a perfect commuter too. soma smoothie is omthing to think about too.

I commuted on an OCR for years. It's totally fine. It's a pretty decent road bike, and a fine commuter. If you care, it has eyelets for a rack. Fenders are a bit tougher (unless you do RaceBlades). Since you said you have no interest in winter riding, it's probably a non-issue.

Granted, I'm a lightweight. But, I even have low spoke count wheels and they've never needed truing. Road bikes are not NEARLY as fragile as some may lead you to believe.

Get the bike that you REALLY want. If you do, you'll ride more. If that bike is a commuter, fine. If that bike is a road bike, get the road bike and make it work for commuting--it's certainly not impossible.

Bottom line: You can commute on any bike. You can't race on a commuter.