Road Cycling - newbie looking for advice

I've recently begun the search to getting a good starter road bike that i won't grow out of in 6 months. I'm looking to spend $700 to $1000. I've already seen some great models and read plenty of ratings and reviews. My concern is my lower back and the type of fit you get from a compact frame vs. a standard frame. I was told that the compact is geared more to a hunched over ride which in turn creates more stress on the lower back. The standard frame allows for a better upright positioning(something a person with back concerns wants). But, i've also heard that this is not true. I thought this forum would be a great place to hear others advice on this topic. Thanks
Bikes i'm considering are...Specialized Allez Sport
Fuji Robaix
Cannondale RC400 or 600
K2 Mach???

I believe your information is incorrect about body position from a compact frame to a standard frame. I currently have a compact frame on my new bike but all other have been standard frames. Your still positioned the same way providing the bike is fit correctly for the rider. Either one would work fine. Ride the ones you want if possible and see which you like the best.

I've recently begun the search to getting a good starter road bike that i won't grow out of in 6 months. I'm looking to spend $700 to $1000. I've already seen some great models and read plenty of ratings and reviews. My concern is my lower back and the type of fit you get from a compact frame vs. a standard frame. I was told that the compact is geared more to a hunched over ride which in turn creates more stress on the lower back. The standard frame allows for a better upright positioning(something a person with back concerns wants). But, i've also heard that this is not true. I thought this forum would be a great place to hear others advice on this topic. Thanks
Bikes i'm considering are...Specialized Allez Sport
Fuji Robaix
Cannondale RC400 or 600
K2 Mach???Get the robaix pro.Stay on the hoods and your back will be fine.

Strangely (I guess) the road bike stretches out my back. My back never feels better than after riding. ANyone else?

I have a bad back and i was worried about it but it adjusted to it.You hardly ride in the drops anyway.Tops of bars or on the hoods.

My concern is my lower back and the type of fit you get from a compact frame vs. a standard frame. I was told that the compact is geared more to a hunched over ride which in turn creates more stress on the lower back. The standard frame allows for a better upright positioning(something a person with back concerns wants). But, i've also heard that this is not true. I thought this forum would be a great place to hear others advice on this topic. Thanks
Bikes i'm considering are...Specialized Allez Sport
Fuji Robaix
Cannondale RC400 or 600
K2 Mach???

You contact the bike with hands, butt, and feet. The angle of the top tube is irrelevant; "compact geometry" bikes yield the same range of rider positions as traditional frames, because they allow for the same variations in the parameters that actually do affect riding position (head-and seat-tube angles, and effective top-tube length).

Sometimes a designer will use the sloping TT as an opportunity to create a relatively taller head tube which can indeed yield a more upright riding position, particularly when combined with a shorter effective TT length. But there are just as many (if not more) compact type frames that are designed for all-out performance, with aggressive angles and long top tubes.

Do not assume that sitting up will help your back. It depends on what ails you. For many people, upright seating, which puts more of your weight through your spine and onto your sit-bones, can be more uncomfortable for the back than the stretched-out road position, which distributes your weight better. But you have to bend at the hips rather than arching your back, which means you need a bike that fits.

Often, the worst discomfort for people new to road bikes comes from the neck being bent up so you can see ahead. This happens when bikes are set up the way the pro's do, with the handlebars much lower than the saddle. A more sensible setup, with the bars at or near saddle height, when combined with the correct distance between the saddle and the bars, can yield a ride that's actually therapeutic for some kinds of back problems (like my arthritis, for example) and comfortable for hours of riding at a time.

What have you been riding up til now? What sorts of distances? With what effect on your back?

RichC

first of all, thanks for all the replies! You are much more helpful than the people i've met in the stores. As for bikes ridden before....none really, except for a cheap mountain bike that was used for 45 minute stretches at the longest. I'm primarily a runner and have decided to go the bike route due to the strain on the knees and back.
I hear what your saying about tying the bike to see for myself. Thats my next step. Any advice on actual models. Right now the store i'm thinknig of buying from carries specialized, K2, and lemond. Like I said before, i'm looking for under 1000. thanks again!

It's great that you are finding good information here on the forums -- but it's bad that you haven't been able to do so at any of the local bike dealers where you've been bike shopping. This tells you that you need to find another shop --one where you can get accurate, reliable information from someone experienced who is more interested in seeing that your biking experience is a good one (and enjoyable) than they are about selling you a bike that they happen to have in stock.

A good LBS or "local bike shop" (It took me a little while to figure that out when I first joined the forums!) with a knowlegable staff will be able to recommend a bike or two that fits you well and is in your price range. It may be a compact geometry or it may not... that really isn't that big of an issue if the frame is well designed and you are fitted well. If you get a frame that is the right size for you, I think the critical issues to getting a good fit will be seat position, bar position and stem length, and maybe top tube length. (It seels to me that some frames, like the LeMonds have longer top tubes that may not be suitable for riders with short torsos (or short arms!) A good bike shop can help you with all of this, and explain what they are doing. You can learn a lot this way.

Good luck with your purchase, and enjoy your rides!

Strangely (I guess) the road bike stretches out my back. My back never feels better than after riding. ANyone else?

I agree DnvrFox, my back pains seem to reduce the more I ride. After a strenuous day of other sports that I enjoy, like tennis or skiing, I almost always have some back pain. But I never have it after a strenuous day of cycling, even in a road race type riding position. Brightond- I think your potential for back pain really depends on what normally causes it. If it's from compression and jarring like it is for me, I doubt you'll get it from cycling as long as you get your riding position dialed in correctly. An ideal riding position will spread your weight between saddle, pedals, and bars as mentioned above.

As for bikes, I agree with shokhead, rather than the Fuji Roubaix, the Roubaix Pro would probably be a better bet. IMHO (in my humble opinion) the Reynolds 853 steel frame should give you a smoother ride than the alum. frame on the regular Roubaix. Happy shopping and riding :) !

You contact the bike with hands, butt, and feet. The angle of the top tube is irrelevant; "compact geometry" bikes yield the same range of rider positions as traditional frames, because they allow for the same variations in the parameters that actually do affect riding position (head-and seat-tube angles, and effective top-tube length).

Sometimes a designer will use the sloping TT as an opportunity to create a relatively taller head tube which can indeed yield a more upright riding position, particularly when combined with a shorter effective TT length. But there are just as many (if not more) compact type frames that are designed for all-out performance, with aggressive angles and long top tubes.

Do not assume that sitting up will help your back. It depends on what ails you. For many people, upright seating, which puts more of your weight through your spine and onto your sit-bones, can be more uncomfortable for the back than the stretched-out road position, which distributes your weight better. But you have to bend at the hips rather than arching your back, which means you need a bike that fits.

Often, the worst discomfort for people new to road bikes comes from the neck being bent up so you can see ahead. This happens when bikes are set up the way the pro's do, with the handlebars much lower than the saddle. A more sensible setup, with the bars at or near saddle height, when combined with the correct distance between the saddle and the bars, can yield a ride that's actually therapeutic for some kinds of back problems (like my arthritis, for example) and comfortable for hours of riding at a time.

What have you been riding up til now? What sorts of distances? With what effect on your back?

RichCHow do you like your pro?I almost got one.

Rich is correct about differences in frame designs. When buying a new bike its a good Idea to measure your old bike then transfer those measurements to your new bike. If you sit on your new new bike and close your eyes you shouldnt be able to tell the difference.

Bikes for $700-$1000?? I always recommend buying left over models and this is the time of year to do it.
You should be able to pick up an '02 or '03 model for 25-30% off.

thanks again for the replies.... i plan on checking out an LBS that seems more geared toward finding a great fitting bike than a good fitting bike that they happen to have ready for me to buy immeadiately. What about the K2 bikes??? I still haven't heard any opinions on this brand. I believe the store has some 03' mach 3's for a great price. Let me know Thanks

How do you like your pro?I almost got one.

It's sweet. I rode the alu Roubaix and then the steel Pro, and the difference was obvious and profound. Definitely an argument that "frame material really does matter."

Bought it off ebay ("new in box") for $700 about a year ago, stripped it down and reassembled it, hand-tensioned the wheels, and swapped the 105 double for a triple (being a hill weenie). Great bike.

RichC