Mountain Biking - New chain suggestions?

I need to replace my chain and would like some opinions. I have Shimano drivetrain and chain now, but I think I would like to get a Sram because of the masterlink. The reason for the masterlink it would be nice for cleaning. I know Sram/Shimano is supposed to be compatable, but real world is this true? What are the pros/cons of doing this and dose anyone have any other suggestions? Also, do i need any special tools?

Check out the Wipperman chains @ http://www.connexchain.com/. I switched from a Shimano chain and this shifts smoother than my Shimano chain did. It has a Connex link (tool free master link) that takes only a few seconds to connect or disconnect.

I have a sram chain, and its VERY easy to clean. In my opinion I would pick the sram hands down.

I need to replace my chain and would like some opinions. I have Shimano drivetrain and chain now, but I think I would like to get a Sram because of the masterlink. The reason for the masterlink it would be nice for cleaning. I know Sram/Shimano is supposed to be compatable, but real world is this true? What are the pros/cons of doing this and dose anyone have any other suggestions? Also, do i need any special tools?


SRAM, Shimano, KMC, Whipperman ... they're all compatible so long as you get the right cog count (speed). The SRAM chains come with a reusable masterlink that allows one to quickly get the chain on and off the bike without pressing a new pin.

As far as cleaning ... I prefer a chain cleaning machine right on the bike. But I still like the Powerlink as it's very easy to deal with when I have to take the drivetrain apart or clean the bike (it's easier to just take it apart).

I replace my chains with SRAM because I like the masterlink and they're readily available at my LBS. Never had a problem with them, and they make cleaning a breeze.

SRAM, Shimano, KMC, Whipperman ... they're all compatible so long as you get the right cog count (speed). The SRAM chains come with a reusable masterlink that allows one to quickly get the chain on and off the bike without pressing a new pin.

As far as cleaning ... I prefer a chain cleaning machine right on the bike. But I still like the Powerlink as it's very easy to deal with when I have to take the drivetrain apart or clean the bike (it's easier to just take it apart).

Most chain manufacturers actually suggest AGAINST using the chain "machines". I was suprised to find this out... and I also can't actually think of a good reason why?

Most chain manufacturers actually suggest AGAINST using the chain "machines". I was suprised to find this out... and I also can't actually think of a good reason why?

I think that it's BS. The machine gives you a fast, easy way to clean the damn thing. Too many people obsess over a clean chain. They are just plain prone to wear, regardless of how picky you are about them. For heaven's sake just replace the chain once a year or when they reach .75% wear ('stretch'). Get a chain wear indicator for about ten bucks. You will get a lot more service life from your drivetrain - cogs and chainrings are gonna cost you $150 on the average if you have to replace them prematurely.

Sram Hollowpin 990

carbon belt, the only way 2 go.

http://carbondrivesystems.com/

SRAM or anything with a master link.

KMC chains are good, not the lightest chains but their only like 20$.

SRAM FTW. I gave up on Shimano many moons ago after breaking chains on mtn and road bikes. I've never been able to break a SRAM chain, not for lack of trying...

I'm sure Shimano makes some fine chains but I like Sram.I got the top of the line hollow pin on my mt. bike.It has been on my bike all last spring/summer,all fall /winter,days of rain,rain and more rain.Took it off for cleaning.I toss it in a wide mouth plastic jar with some Simple Green, shake it up let sit a while shake some more.Rinse with hot water.Wipe dry.Nothing could be easier.Oh,I measured it for stretch,nothing.Unreal!I'm sure a lesser chain would be at the end of it's life by now.So sometimes you get what you pay for.

Confirmed. I am getting a Sram. Do I need a special tool to change it?

Confirmed. I am getting a Sram. Do I need a special tool to change it?

Not if your current chain and new chain have a masterlink, you should just need a pair of pliers, but otherwise you need a spin doctor (cheapest one that works well) chain pin remover. (yes, i know thats not the technical name, but the shop will know what you are refering to)

Quick nooble question, sorry to derail the thread.
If i, say, buy an el cheapo budget $5 chain from nashbar for my rusty beater bike......can i whack a masterlink on it?
Link to el cheapo budget chain aforementioned. (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600076&subcategory=60001099&brand=&sku=7175&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Chains)

NB: Yes I'm aware its a "6 speed" chain. Probably because it's a 1x5 bike, and i cant find a 5 speed chain. Plus, im a stinge when it comes to the bike in question.

not sure BFG. thanks elf 232 I knew that blonde moment on my part.

Quick nooble question, sorry to derail the thread.
If i, say, buy an el cheapo budget $5 chain from nashbar for my rusty beater bike......can i whack a masterlink on it?
Link to el cheapo budget chain aforementioned. (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600076&subcategory=60001099&brand=&sku=7175&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Chains)

NB: Yes I'm aware its a "6 speed" chain. Probably because it's a 1x5 bike, and i cant find a 5 speed chain. Plus, im a stinge when it comes to the bike in question.

I don't know why not, it says it comes with a reuseable connector. I thought 7-8 speed chains were the same width, that says it's a 6-7? Maybe after 5 they're all the same until 9.

Couple things

BFG (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=80064) - You might not be able to "slap" any old master link onto it. 5 speed or 6 speed chains are different in width than a 7/8/9 speed chain.

xcracer13 (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=88370) - KMC actually makes one of the lightest chains available in addition to their old standby's.

kenhill3 (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=50120) - I completely agree about the chain machines being "bad" for the chain. Its a pointless argument. The tool companies need something to sell and the chain companies need something to sell. Obviously they're going to contradict each other. I always hand clean my chains tho.

I don't know why not, it says it comes with a reuseable connector. I thought 7-8 speed chains were the same width, that says it's a 6-7? Maybe after 5 they're all the same until 9.

yes, i used a 9 speed on a 7 and it worked fine, at worst case u might have to remove a few links.

Not if your current chain and new chain have a masterlink, you should just need a pair of pliers, but otherwise you need a spin doctor (cheapest one that works well) chain pin remover. (yes, i know thats not the technical name, but the shop will know what you are refering to)

All the SRAMs I've purchased have come with a master link. The master link is removed and assembled without tools. I've never needed a tool to get mine on and off. The only tool needed is to remove the old chain, and if you have a hack saw or dremel or some other cutting implement that will do just fine for that job.

A chain tool is handy to carry in the saddle bag though (along with an extra master link). If you frag a chain on the trail you can simply remove the broken section, replace with the master link, and keep on riding (only down a few gears).

yes, i used a 9 speed on a 7 and it worked fine, at worst case u might have to remove a few links.

But if he was using a 6 speed chain with a 9 speed masterlink... the width of the masterlink in relation to the chain might be an issue.

Thats what I was implying.

All the SRAMs I've purchased have come with a master link. The master link is removed and assembled without tools. I've never needed a tool to get mine on and off. The only tool needed is to remove the old chain, and if you have a hack saw or dremel or some other cutting implement that will do just fine for that job.

A chain tool is handy to carry in the saddle bag though (along with an extra master link). If you frag a chain on the trail you can simply remove the broken section, replace with the master link, and keep on riding (only down a few gears).

A hacksaw/ dremel tool is not ideal since chains are made from hardened steel, but do it whatever way you like, a chain pin remover will be better since you dont have to destroy the old chain to remove it, and instead of replacing the whole chain on the trail you can just pop a link out if needed.

A hacksaw/ dremel tool is not ideal since chains are made from hardened steel, but do it whatever way you like, a chain pin remover will be better since you dont have to destroy the old chain to remove it, and instead of replacing the whole chain on the trail you can just pop a link out if needed.

Chain tool is the easy way, I was giving another option for those who may not have a chain tool. (The combo of going to the bike store, buying a chain tool, bringing it home, and using it is longer than just hacking the old one off with a saw. :) )

you have to get the new chain anyway, spend 7 bucks for it at the shop while your there, or go into wal-mart as u pass by and pick one up for 2.50, i used one of those and it lasted me about 8 link replacements, so not bad for 2.50

Sram or Wipperman are good...stay out of Shimano and KMC

Mountain Bike has an article on the Shimano HG93
it looks ok, but IDK, anyone use it before?

@BMC

Yes, you can put a masterlink on a chain. I have one on mine.

IN ORDER TO SETTLE DEBATES ABOUT PROPER CLEANING OF THE CHAIN:

The most effective method (and you'll find that many will agree):

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System (http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html)

IN ORDER TO SETTLE DEBATES ABOUT PROPER CLEANING OF THE CHAIN:

The most effective method (and you'll find that many will agree):

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System (http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html)

I'd rather buy a new damn chain.

IN ORDER TO SETTLE DEBATES ABOUT PROPER CLEANING OF THE CHAIN:

The most effective method (and you'll find that many will agree):

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System (http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html)

The anal retentive- surgical approach.

Mountain Bike has an article on the Shimano HG93
it looks ok, but IDK, anyone use it before?

Used lots of 'em. No problemo.

A lot of people like sram chains. i use a shimano xtr with quicklink.

I've had good luck w/ SRAM 991 and 971, as well as XT w/ PowerLink.

I don't have a favorite though.

Mountain Bike has an article on the Shimano HG93
it looks ok, but IDK, anyone use it before?

i use an HG93
ITS LOUD ITS LOUD ITS LOUD
anyone else?

SRAM chains...
as for cleaning, i use some diluted simple green and go over if with a tooth brush for 10 minutes max. rinse, let dry and liberally apply Pro Link. Fantastic lube, that Pro Link is. seems to work best for the dry, dusty trails of summer in the rockies. i usually clean the chain about every 30 hours or riding or so (after 7 or 8 rides maybe). apply the Pro Link every 2nd ride or so.
again, one more vote for SRAM chains and a vote for Pro-Link lube.

oh, and to the OP. check Park Tools page for help with the chain (or any other maintenance/repair work really) great resource.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/

IN ORDER TO SETTLE DEBATES ABOUT PROPER CLEANING OF THE CHAIN:

The most effective method (and you'll find that many will agree):

The ShelBroCo Bicycle Chain Cleaning System (http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html)

If it doesn't kill you before you put the chain back together...

Theres a guy in the ss/fg forum that showers with his chain. He says it works pretty good.

I use a KMC on my fixed. Its brakeless and I trust its reliability. Granted... its all 1/8th components instead of 3/32"

kenhill3 (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=50120) - I completely agree about the chain machines being "bad" for the chain. Its a pointless argument. The tool companies need something to sell and the chain companies need something to sell. Obviously they're going to contradict each other. I always hand clean my chains tho.

Argument is pointless once all perspectives have been presented. We're still waiting for an argument as to why chain cleaning machines are bad.

We had a very long argument here claiming that the Park/Rohloff Chain Checkers actually called good chains bad and that Shimano's tool which is 6x more expensive did it correctly when it allowed the chain to wear 2x more before replacement.

Hmmm... Shimano makes more money when you buy a cassette and ringset AND chain rather than just the chain. Who would you trust when Park just sells tools? If the Park tool makes it easier and more convenient to clean your chain, wouldn't it stand to reason that people would clean their chain more and as a result have less overall wear resulting in less sales of chains, cassettes and chainrings?

I'll trust Park Tool on this one as they will make less money on one chain machine for all your bikes rather than years worth of worn drivetrain components. BTW, I think if you search the Park Tool site, you'll also find the 2L bottle method.