Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - post pics of interesting ways to lace a wheel.

i just want to see some intersting wheels.

http://us3.pixagogo.com/S5yfZ0qxqd1GS8JvUkzT73qMajRMJ0KQhHvdAIN%21rNGvvSaUYXD7JpblPaccSa5FMCN3Hkgk9RiJN4ch8Ub2Q4HFlJKHP8l3Jk L1a3VkAMXK8_/IMG_0140.JPG
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=259490&highlight=snowflake

http://i29.tinypic.com/vz8yv8.jpg
Three leading, three trailing. I'm thinking of building one for my front wheel.

Here's the guys' site if you're interested: http://www.baldurdash.org/OtherStuff/3leading3trailing.html

anyone have any pics of bikes with the 3 leading 3 trailing? i cnt decide if i want both wheels, just the front, or just the back to be like that.

anyone have any pics of bikes with the 3 leading 3 trailing? i cnt decide if i want both wheels, just the front, or just the back to be like that.

Lol. Post #3. K thx.

Lol. Post #3. K thx.

i was asking for a picture with the wheel ON the bike. kthxbye

its just a wheel, imagine it on the bike

i was asking for a picture with the wheel ON the bike. kthxbye

You don't really need someone to tell you that it looks funky do you?

Wouldn't these methods of lacing make it hard(er) to true a wheel?

Pfft...trued wheels are for freds.

how does the strength of a 3L3T wheel compare to a standard cross 3?

You don't really need someone to tell you that it looks funky do you?

nope. i need someone to show me.

My 32 hole crows foot. Posted in a couple threads already, but I'm shameless.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/peedtm/020208_23381.jpghttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o170/peedtm/020208_23421.jpg

http://www.efn.org/~bicycle/images/wheel.gif

not as strong i would say. the main problem i had with it is interlacing the spokes caused too much tension and caused them to snap, so if you do go with that pattern dont weave them within each other and it should be alright. probably not the most efficient when truing either.

not as strong i would say. the main problem i had with it is interlacing the spokes caused too much tension and caused them to snap, so if you do go with that pattern dont weave them within each other and it should be alright. probably not the most efficient when truing either.

I relaced a 32h front wheel from 3 cross to 3l3t. You dont have to change spoke lengths or anything, which is a big plus. Other fancy lacing variations can require multiple spoke lengths. While a 3l3t isn't quite as strong as a 3 cross wheel, it is stronger than a radial wheel. I recommend that you do weave the spokes together. Crossing spokes does little to lower their stiffness and greatly increases the strength of the wheel due to the flexing that can occur between crossed spokes. Rather than increasing the likelihood of spoke snappage, you will gain a stronger, more robust and compliant wheel with slightly reduced stiffness over non-woven spokes. Spoke tension is mainly a function of nipple adjustment, not interlacing. You can get away with not interlacing spokes for the front wheel but don't do it for the rear wheel. Trueing is less intuitive with a 3l3t than a 3cross but is no less efficient.

I would recommend trying out 3lt3t with a high spoke count wheel with a high flange hub for best visual results. Also, if you are worried about wheel strength, stay away from twisted spoke patterns. Those things are very tough to do well.

is there any way to do a Radial pattern front wheel and have it be strong enough for daily city riding?

http://tandem-fahren.de/Technik/Speichen/Aerospoke.gif

is there any way to do a Radial pattern front wheel and have it be strong enough for daily city riding?

How many spokes for your upper limit?

36 spoke radial on deep V's would be a strong wheel.

http://tandem-fahren.de/Technik/Speichen/Aerospoke.gif

WTF! no nipples! nipple nipple nipple nipple nipple nipplllleeeeeeeessss NIPLE! yay nipple!

is there any way to do a Radial pattern front wheel and have it be strong enough for daily city riding?

A radial is strong enough for city riding. This has far more to do with the builder than the pattern.

radials are usually only weak to rotational torque, not stiffness or anything like that. i know tons of people riding radial fronts in the city.

Hmm...id love to have a radial front (for no other reason that the look). I'm currently running 32h weinman dp18s. Are there any other benifits (aside from personal preference and a SLIGHT weight loss) from radial lacing? Any major drawbacks?

Hmm...id love to have a radial front (for no other reason that the look). I'm currently running 32h weinman dp18s. Are there any other benifits (aside from personal preference and a SLIGHT weight loss) from radial lacing? Any major drawbacks?

Hub flanges more likely to separate from hub. Failure is a major drawback.

http://bp1.blogger.com/_2-iSUafvkhk/R6vLVDsgbGI/AAAAAAAAAEM/7G9UBgx7pHY/s320/P2070041.JPG

http://bp3.blogger.com/_2-iSUafvkhk/RxLhnMj7AeI/AAAAAAAAAD0/1LLqQ-R3C-A/s320/PA140033.JPG

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-031.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-032.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-033.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-048.html

booooo.....guess ill stick with 3x

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-031.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-032.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-033.html

http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-048.html


Thanx, I just decided no to do that on my new wheels

Most hub manufacturers state that you break the warranty if you lace radially. Obviously some hubs are designed for it since they sell prebuilts like that. It calls for additional material outside the spoke holes, though that hugi looked like it had plenty.

Wasn't Sheldon a big fan of radially spoked front wheels? I though I remembered him saying that.

I relaced a 32h front wheel from 3 cross to 3l3t.

You must mean 36h?

Wasn't Sheldon a big fan of radially spoked front wheels? I though I remembered him saying that.

If I may,

Yes, because front wheels don't require any torsional stiffness unless running a hub/disc brake. Boutique hubs (which he wasn't a fan of) tend to be a little under-built for weight savings.

Hub flanges more likely to separate from hub. Failure is a major drawback.

http://bp1.blogger.com/_2-iSUafvkhk/R6vLVDsgbGI/AAAAAAAAAEM/7G9UBgx7pHY/s320/P2070041.JPG

http://bp3.blogger.com/_2-iSUafvkhk/RxLhnMj7AeI/AAAAAAAAAD0/1LLqQ-R3C-A/s320/PA140033.JPG

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a59/penguinking3/fail.jpg

My wheelsmith convinced me that radial was good up front by pointing to his cross, track, road, tri, and mtn bikes which all have radial laced fronts. He claims to have been running radial fronts on all his bikes for the last 20 years with no problems. Hopefully my wheels won't be the exception to the rule.

32H hub to 20H rim, using 1/4 long nipples, and 1/4 washered nipples:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/184/367634493_3491f4ab3c.jpg
36H hub to 48H rim 3 lead 3trail:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/186/452853791_7e79b8fe6b.jpg
32H hub to 48H rim, 1/4 spokes are 3mm shorter:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/176/483470357_12588f0069.jpg

Would a high flange hub, radial laced, be more or less likely to fail?

Maybe a tiny bit less? Depends more on how much material there is.