Bicycle Mechanics - Interchangable Wheelsets

I've got a Shimmano 12-25 10 speed cassette on my rear wheel. I just purchased a new set of wheels for racing and want to know if I can put a Campy 11-23 9 or 10 speed on them and have both sets of wheels be "plug and play" so to speak, without re-tuning the derailer.

Anyone have any insite?

Why do you want to use a Campagnolo cassette with your Shimano setup?

If possible, yes. If not, I'll have to swap the campy freewheel (that came with the wheels) with a Shimmano freewheel.

The 10sp campy cassette might work, but it's not going to work very well. The spacing for Shimano and Campy are different (3.95 vs. 4.15). You might get lucky, but I wouldn't count it to work flawlessly.

Thanks! I wasn't aware of the difference in spacing. If I got a new shimmano cassette would my exsisting setup be able to run anything other than a 10 speed 12-25?

Are you thinking that you can put a Shimano cassette on your Campy wheels? It ain't that easy.

No, I plan to change the campy freewheel for a shimmano freewheel, I just want to know if im stuck with putting on a 10 speed 12-25 cassette or if I can put something else.

Yeah, knock yourself out, get a 12-23 .....

You are mixing some terms here. Freewheel and cassette are not the same thing. Do you mean the freehub that the cassette slides on to?

If you have a ten speed setup you should use a 10 speed cassette, but they do come in different sizes (11-23, 12-17, etch.).

OP: The part or the rear hub that the cassette slips onto is called the freehub. Campy freehubs and Shimano freehubs are different and are not compatible. In other words, you can't put a Campy cassette on a Shimano freehub and vice versa.

Based on what you've written, your current bike's drivetrain (shifters, derailleurs, chain and cassette/freehub) is Shimano. You recently purchased a new set of wheels with a Campy cassette (and therefore a campy free hub). As others have pointed out, this is not compatable with your bike's drivetrain.

American Classic makes a "conversion" cassette that has campy cogs/spacing, but fits on a shimano freehub. If you're REALLY lucky, this is what is on your new wheel, but I doubt it.

Unfortunately, what you would be looking for is the opposite - a conversion cassette that adapts a Shimano type cassette to a campy freehub. I don't know if such a thing is available.

You can however change your new wheels' freehub from campy to shimano, but others with more expertise will have to chime in on that. I don't believe it's a huge deal cost or effort.

If you have a ten speed setup you should use a 10 speed cassette, but they do come in different sizes (11-23, 12-17, etch.).

How do you make a 10-speed 12x17 cassette? Cogs with 1/2 tooth intervals? :p I assume you meant to type 12x27 :)

As long as both cassettes match the rear shifter, you can get away with using different cassettes a few teeth off. One wheelset of mine has a 11-23, another 11-28, and a third 13-19 freewheel. All are 7-speed and all interchange without changing anything on the derailer. My Open Pros are just enough wider then my CXP 22s and Rovals that I need to adjust the brake. I set the brake cables with the Open Pros and use the barrell adjuster for the other two narrower rims.

How do you make a 10-speed 12x17 cassette? Cogs with 1/2 tooth intervals? :p I assume you meant to type 12x27 :)

Sure enough I did. I also meant "etc." instead of "etch.".

Avoid mixing Campy and Shimano. If your shifters are Shimano keep the wheels and cassettes all Shimano. If the freehub on the new wheels can be exchanged for a Shimano compatible freehub that would be the best bet. With a Shimano freehub any 10-speed Shimano cassette will work with your 10-speed Shimano shifters. Shimano makes a wide variety of cassettes.

Al

Once you finally get all the hardware compatible as per the advice above there's one final adjustment to make. You'll need to set up the distance from the small cog's outer face to the inside of the frame dropout so that they are the same to within the thickness of a piece or two of writing paper.

You can adjust this spacing using shim washers that you put between the cone locking nut and the cone on the freehub side or if you can find cassette spacer shims you can shim the cassette on the freehub splines.

Doing this means the cogs will line up exactly the same when you swap wheels and there won't be any derraileur adjustments needed.

One other little detail. Have both wheelsets checked for dish and correct either that is not perfect and then match the other to that one. This particular one isn't as critical as the cogset matching because the brakes are not THAT critical. But it's nice when you don't even need to tweak the centering adjuster and both pads contact spot on. It helps ensure the brake shoes wear the same on both wheels as well.

And just to check.... you DID measure to ensure that the rims have the same width from braking face to braking face, right? If one is wider than the other then the pads will contact on one edge more than the other. If it's only a mm or so then the pads will bed in with 5 or 10 stops and you're good. If it's a lot then your braking will be reduced until the pads seat in and contact fully. If there is a big difference and you expect full braking right away then there's no way to avoid setting the pads over again.

Been down this road with a mountain bike with a set for commuting and one for dirt trails. I have not done all the steps but I thought about them often enough when swapping wheels and adjusting stuff AGAIN!.....