Mountain Biking - Subtitution of front suspension fork prior to road accident

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=395708

Are you looking for a new fork?

I read the other thread and I don't get it.

Looks like you need a new for fer sure. Do you have a pic of the whole bike?

It appears that the crown has removable bolts, so replace everything below the crown, if you are unable to remove the steerer tube from the head tube. Marzocchi has forks with similar construction, i would start there for replacement parts.

If that thing has taken a lick bad anough to bend it the whole thing should be replaced as well as the frame checked for cracks. Damn dude, your stupid advice is gonna get someone hurt.

If that thing has taken a lick bad anough to bend it the whole thing should be replaced as well as the frame checked for cracks. Damn dude, your stupid advice is gonna get someone hurt.

...come back down to reality, if he wants to keep the bike and cannot find replacement parts for the steerer he has to use the old one, common sense dictates an examination for cracks, the steerer tube is braced by the head tube, the point that the fork bent at, is a higher stress point than the steerer tube to crown connection (which is why that broke rather than the stanchions) the answer to a problem is not always to trash everything and start over. Its likely that the rest of the frame is fine (depending on material) (if it is Al i would begin looking for a new frame soon, after about 10 years aluminum frames develop stress fractures from common use)

Stop gunning for me, and act mature.

Steerer tubes aren't supposed to come out of the fork crown, and if yours doews you may want to send it back for warranty ASAP!

Often with older bikes strength was slightly out of proportion, while stanchions may have been made of thinner steel, the steerer may have been excessively reinforced. You wont know until you look for yourself.

...come back down to reality, if he wants to keep the bike and cannot find replacement parts for the steerer he has to use the old one, common sense dictates an examination for cracks, the steerer tube is braced by the head tube, the point that the fork bent at, is a higher stress point than the steerer tube to crown connection (which is why that broke rather than the stanchions) the answer to a problem is not always to trash everything and start over. Its likely that the rest of the frame is fine (depending on material) (if it is Al i would begin looking for a new frame soon, after about 10 years aluminum frames develop stress fractures from common use)

Stop gunning for me, and act mature.

Stop posting stupid crap and get some idea of what you're talking about. There should be a disclaimer about clueless groms giving out advice.

How many older bikes have you owned?

Steerer tubes aren't supposed to come out of the fork crown, and if yours doews you may want to send it back for warranty ASAP!

:rolleyes: I didnt say steerer tube from crown, i said stanchions from crown.

Stop posting stupid crap and get some idea of what you're talking about. There should be a disclaimer about clueless groms giving out advice.

Find an article proving me wrong, on any of my points and I will humbly bow before you.

...come back down to reality, if he wants to keep the bike and cannot find replacement parts for the steerer he has to use the old one, common sense dictates an examination for cracks, the steerer tube is braced by the head tube, the point that the fork bent at, is a higher stress point than the steerer tube to crown connection (which is why that broke rather than the stanchions) the answer to a problem is not always to trash everything and start over. Stop gunning for me, and act mature.

The reality is that pinch-bolted fork crowns are a thing of the past, and a dangerous one at that. Yes, the answer is not to always trash everything and start over, but in this case it IS the answer. I guarantee that the crown is toast.

Stop posting stupid crap and get some idea of what you're talking about. There should be a disclaimer about clueless groms giving out advice.

He's not clueless he is delusional. Much more dangerous.

How many older bikes have you owned?

I was previously very interested in old roadies and other older bikes and looked into them veryyy deeply and talked to many owners and vintage trek riders, after i was looking over a few of my biker buddies older treks.

He's not clueless he is delusional. Much more dangerous.

:o Oh, i humbly submit your right.

Now, no more cracks from the peanut gallery.

The reality is that pinch-bolted fork crowns are a thing of the past, and a dangerous one at that. Yes, the answer is not to always trash everything and start over, but in this case it IS the answer. I guarantee that the crown is toast.

Honestly, there is no way to know until the poster examines the frame and steerer for hairline fractures with a magnifying glass... same thing every shop will tell you about fractures.

I was previously very interested in old roadies and other older bikes and looked into them veryyy deeply, after i was looking over a few of my biker buddies older treks.

'Interested' and 'looking very deeply' do not count as experience. How many pinch-bolt crowned forks have you spent any amount of time riding?

Find an article proving me wrong, on any of my points and I will humbly bow before you.

I tried to hook you up with a compact pump so you wouldn't need to use your shock pump to pump your tires up but you declined.I really owe a big "I'm sorry" to XCracer and Profail. I should not have lumped them in with you. You are in a class by yourself.

I'm wondering, how long have you been riding?

'Interested' and 'looking very deeply' do not count as experience. How many pinch-bolt crowned forks have you spent any amount of time riding?

I do have an older fuji, (really old) and i talked with people who have much experience, more experience than i could ever hope to get alone at my age, i submit that does count.

Well I really appreciate the level of knowledge and information being dished out here, but in fact I must agree with kenhill3. Thing is, if I am to put in a new fork, where can I find one that doesnt have the crown soldered onto the vertical tube?

Here are some new photos of the bike in question:

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/Lhebanelk/DSC01342.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/Lhebanelk/DSC01341.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/Lhebanelk/DSC01340.jpg

Honestly, there is no way to know until the poster examines the frame and steerer for hairline fractures with a magnifying glass... same thing every shop will tell you about fractures.

Incorrect. The poster is certainly not qualified to identify stress fracture or risers- unless he is an experienced and competent mechanic.

I tried to hook you up with a compact pump so you wouldn't need to use your shock pump to pump your tires up but you declined.I really owe a big "I'm sorry" to XCracer and Profail. I should not have lumped them in with you. You are in a class by yourself.

I'm wondering, how long have you been riding?

Apparently not long enough for the old fogeys on this forum. Im really not sure yet what you have a problem with, you just keep saying how absurd my statements are about the applying subject...

I have not seen you give any take on how to solve this problem other than to trash the whole set-up. What in your opinion should this member do about his vintage bike?

Apparently not long enough for the old fogeys on this forum. Im really not sure yet what you have a problem with, you just keep saying how absurd my statements are about the applying subject...

I have not seen you give any take on how to solve this problem other than to trash the whole set-up. What in your opinion should this member do about his vintage bike?

I didn't say trash the whole setup. I would give a very close inspection and at the least find a new fork.

So how long have you been riding?

Incorrect. The poster is certainly not qualified to identify stress fracture or risers- unless he is an experienced and competent mechanic.

I fully agree, take it to your LBS, have them examine the steerer, and see what they recomend. It absolutely could fractured to pieces when it is examined, but it shouldnt be judged by guesses of possible outcome.

My final word on this subject.

Well I really appreciate the level of knowledge and information being dished out here, but in fact I must agree with kenhill3. Thing is, if I am to put in a new fork, where can I find one that doesnt have the crown soldered onto the vertical tube.

The very first thing to do is have the shop examine the frame's head tube junction area to be sure that the frame itself is not toast. If OK, then have them help you select a new fork, Marzocchi, Rockshox, Manitou will be available at a reasonable cost. Maybe a Fox, but I'm gonna guess that you don't want to spend $400 plus.

This is the new fork I bought (mentioned in the original thread, being a BERG blablabla pls check it to get the full name and specs).

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/Lhebanelk/DSC01343.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/Lhebanelk/DSC01344.jpg

As we can see, it has the crown soldered onto the vertical tube, and this tube cannot connect to the tube that is already there on my front, because as can be seen it is soldered onto the hand-place.

I wonder if Elf's "tire slime in the fork" trick would have helped in this situation?

By reading the original post in the road forum, it appears that Johnny Lomax's problem is trying to remove the stem from the steerer tube.

Johnny, pry off the black plastic plug on top of the stem (probably says "zoom" on it). A bolt head will appear. Then follow these (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threaded) instructions.

edit: and I'm pretty sure your new fork won't work

The reality is that pinch-bolted fork crowns are a thing of the past,

False.


and a dangerous one at that.

False.

By reading the original post in the road forum, it appears that Johnny Lomax's problem is trying to remove the stem from the steerer tube.

Johnny, pry off the black plastic plug on top of the stem (probably says "zoom" on it). A bolt head will appear. Then follow these (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threaded) instructions.

edit: and I'm pretty sure your new fork won't work

True.

Take it to a shop to get the right type of fork.

You'll need something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-26-MTB-Suspension-Front-Fork-1-Threaded-Red_W0QQitemZ220137879825QQcmdZViewItem

Or like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/FORK-BIKE-ROCK-SH0X-SUSPENSION-JETT-T2-1-1-8-THREAD_W0QQitemZ160141465655QQcmdZViewItem

It looks as if Jonny has picked up a fork with a 1 1/8 threadless steerer. If his bike has the same headtube size he could get a new stem and make it work.

As we can see, it has the crown soldered onto the vertical tube, and this tube cannot connect to the tube that is already there on my front, because as can be seen it is soldered onto the hand-place.

is he talking a totally different language or something? I think vertical tube=steerer and hand place=handlebars

True.

Take it to a shop to get the right type of fork.

You'll need something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-26-MTB-Suspension-Front-Fork-1-Threaded-Red_W0QQitemZ220137879825QQcmdZViewItem

Or like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/FORK-BIKE-ROCK-SH0X-SUSPENSION-JETT-T2-1-1-8-THREAD_W0QQitemZ160141465655QQcmdZViewItem

Do you have a source for a good quality 1" threaded suspension fork?

Hmm that link you gave gastro has a lot of vocab I am not familiar with. But I have seen that there is in fact a bolt on the steerer tube that according to your link only enables the stem to be moved up and down but can it be REmoved?

And even if I succeed (these being more dangerous waters ;)), then I presume the fork I purchased won't fit on. Beh. Plus these brands (RockShox, Marzochi, Fox, Manitou) are all insanely expensive. I have only €40 to spend, and that is already pushing at my finances to the broke-limit. My friend suggested a Suntour XC60 (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12433), because of its price availability (but it seems to be like the one I bought today at Sport Zone, in other words, not capable of being fitted onto my steerer tube).

Hmm that link you gave gastro has a lot of vocab I am not familiar with. But I have seen that there is in fact a bolt on the steerer tube that according to your link only enables the stem to be moved up and down but can it be REmoved?

And even if I succeed (these being more dangerous waters ;)), then I presume the fork I purchased won't fit on. Beh. Plus these brands (RockShox, Marzochi, Fox, Manitou) are all insanely expensive. I have only €40 to spend, and that is already pushing at my finances to the broke-limit. My friend suggested a Suntour XC60 (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12433), because of its price availability (but it seems to be like the one I bought today at Sport Zone, in other words, not capable of being fitted onto my steerer tube).

Id rather have a ridgid fork than a cheap suspension one. They cheap ones feel like a bobble doll. A ridgid would be well within your budget and easy to find. Use the park tool website for all the info on removing your old quill stem. Good luck

I am confused.. what is the problem? Looks like you just need a threaded fork?

Yeah well since it's safer to take it to a shop (I am having a lot of difficulty unscrewing the steerer from the stem) I'm gonna have to ask my mum to bring the car for that. Not only is there no bike shop close to where I'm at atm (this bike was bought far, far away), there is no way I can carry this one with 1 wheel to the closest shop.

I will however (when I have more energy) finish reading that Hands Up! site and perhaps try some other manipulations on the bike.

BTW Thanks for all the help and support people.

He can not get the fork off because he has an older style 1" threaded fork/headset. The Stem has "fused" inside the steerer tube and he needs to separate them.

If that is the problem then we can help a bit more.

DBD:beer:

If I bent a fork like that, my frame and the fork would be in a dumpster the next day.. I've had the unfortunate experience of having a frame snap well after damage like that. I don't care if it's an expensive bike. $2000 or knowing my life hangs on a compromised piece of chinese welded aluminum, I think the choice is obvious here. unless you strip and repaint that section of frame around the headtube no shop should give you the OK to ride that.

Just remember that after you get the new fork, don't use hydraulic brakes - I doubt you know enough about disc brakes to use hyrdraulics.

Just remember that after you get the new fork, don't use hydraulic brakes - I doubt you know enough about disc brakes to use hyrdraulics.

:roflmao:

Just remember that after you get the new fork, don't use hydraulic brakes - I doubt you know enough about disc brakes to use hyrdraulics.

How about keeping your posts on subject. Hydraulics are more than most riders need, and they're complicated and expensive enough that if you dont need them you shouldnt bother with them.

If I bent a fork like that, my frame and the fork would be in a dumpster the next day.. I've had the unfortunate experience of having a frame snap well after damage like that. I don't care if it's an expensive bike. $2000 or knowing my life hangs on a compromised piece of chinese welded aluminum, I think the choice is obvious here. unless you strip and repaint that section of frame around the headtube no shop should give you the OK to ride that.

Everyone has their comfort zone. If this bike is being used for curb hopping and no fractures are visible to a mechanic, he doesnt have much to worry about.

I wonder if Elf's "tire slime in the fork" trick would have helped in this situation?

Nah, you will have to check the "Do it yourself duct tape guide" for this one.

.....I'm pretty sure your new fork won't work

I dont know the if the steerer tube dimensions were checked versus the head tube width, (threaded were generally 1" while this is likely an 1 1/8") and have never checked about type #1 steerer but id agree, the chances of this working are slim. Id try a threaded fork.

KenHill3: "The reality is that pinch-bolted fork crowns are a thing of the past,"



False.


Are you prepared to show examples?

Sure, dual crown forks still have pinch bolts, but staying within the context of the original post, Kenhill3 is correct.

The crown is not "soldered" to the stanchions; it is metallurically bonded to the stanchions in much the same way that some iron cylinder liners are bonded to the aluminum barrel in two-stroke motorcycle engines. Don't sweat that. It's a far better, more secure attachment.

no fork for home?


I'm still not sure what the OP is actually asking...

^ Ditto.