Bicycle Mechanics - A few questions

Hello, I'm really new at this and have a few questions.
First, what is the best way to adjust the height, tilt and fore/aft position of my seat?

Second, how I adjust adjust my cleats on my road shoes? Should my heels turn in a little or out?

Last, I've noticed on my 105 drivetrain I have two barrel adjustors next to my levers. What are these for? What's the optimal adjustment?

Oh, one last thing. how should my bars tilt? I assume the hoods should be about level?
Thanks,
Chris

First, what is the best way to adjust the height, tilt and fore/aft position of my seat?
To do this, you will likely need a couple allen wrenches.

Second, how I adjust adjust my cleats on my road shoes?
Whith a big screwdriver.

Should my heels turn in a little or out?
Out. If they turn in, they will hit the crank.

Oh, one last thing. how should my bars tilt? I assume the hoods should be about level?
The hoods should be set so that you can cofortably ride with them between your thunb and index fingers. The bars should be set so that your wrist is in it's natural position when you are riding in the drops.

1) Optimal seat and handlebar position vary from one individual to another. Experienced cycling friends can give you some decent advice, as can sheldonbrown.com and other websites. To get you started, I have listed a few time-honored general starting points in the adjustment process. To finalize the adjustment, try perturbing each setting incrementally to see what gives you the best combination of comfort and power.
a) SEAT HEIGHT: Spin the pedals backward with your heels centered over them. Your seat is too high if your pelvis rocks back and forth, and too low if your knees more than slightly bent at the bottom of their respective downstrokes.
b) SEAT FORE-AFT: With your elbow against the nose of your saddle, your fingertips should just touch center portion of the handlebar.
c) SEAT TILT: If you feel pressure in the urogenital tissues, lower the nose. If you have to brace with your arms to avoid sliding forward, raise the nose.

2) Foot position, including toe-in/out, is also highly individualistic. My own knees work best when my ankles and heels barely clear my cranks, i.e., I toe outward. Other cyclists prefer a neutral or even a toes-inward stance. If you are sensitive to this, always insist on a retention system which allows several degrees of "float" in the direction your feet point.

For more guidance go to the Library and look for books by Greg Lemond, Bernard Hinault, John Howard or someone who has good
racing credentials. Also there are some past threads on this site that can be helpful. If that fails or confuses, e-mail me. Remember everyone has different views, you'll have to experiment to see what works for you, my advice may or may not work for you. In any case, when you make an adjustment on your saddle position do it a very small amount at a time, or you could "pull' some muscles or irritate a joint etc.. A two or three millimeter change in height can make a big difference, a larger change can risk injury, particularly if you have been riding the same position for some time.
Ride comfortable
Pat

I really appreciate the great feedback (except the first reply),
I'm new to the sport and have no other cyclists here on the island I live on in Alaska (I will be moving in June, hopefully).
I'll try the tips mentioned.
Thanks,
Chris

The 'elbow-to-the-nose' method doesn't always work. I have a very nice Brooks Team Professional saddle (note to John E: you shoulda bid higher!!), and the nose is just a bit longer than the average saddle.

Rub it in there, Alex! Enjoy your Team Pro. I later picked up a homely (no big copper rivets), but extremely comfortable old Brooks Competition for the Peugeot PKN-10 Competition (seemed appropriate), and I still have my trusty 28-year-old Brooks Pro on the Capo.