Bicycle Mechanics - Crank Pullers

I had some free-play in my bottom bracket , and I couldn't find a crank-puller, so I went to the LBS to buy a new one.

Instead of the $5.00 kind, the LBS manager only had the professional kind that costs $20.00. The main difference being the pro model has a handle, and the kind I was used to needs a wrench (has hex sides).

The handle on this twenty dollar crank puller has a *short* handle, and I soon realized that it is short for the purpose of clearing the pedal.

As I used this crank puller for the first time, I noticed that the tool needed a lot of torque; just as the handle was parallel to the crank. I couldn't fit my fingers between the crank and the tool handle.

I actually backed the tool out and turned the inner push thingie half a turn, twice, so I could get a better grip.

I inspected the BB bearings and they were fine. The lock-ring was only a turn and a half loose. I regreased the bearings, although there was plenty of grease on them , as fresh from the factory (I've seen BB's with only minimal grease, as delivered.)

Anyone have a comment on which type of crank-puller you prefer?

I didn't need to use a 'cheater bar' this time, have you ever used one to remove a stubborn crank?

I've never had a problem with the type of puller you've described although, like you, there have been times when I needed to re-insert or re-thread the puller so that the handle didn't line up with the crank arm.

Before using a cheater bar I would make sure that there isn't another problem (eg washer still installed). It is possible to destroy the threads of the crank arm with too much torque so if it doesn't come off with a reasonable amount of torque it is usually best to find out why before using something like a cheater bar.

The Stronglight 23.35 pullers always seem to come in the type without a handle but I'd rather have the type with the built-in handle since it's once less part to keep in place. Probably helps to reduce the chances of skinned knuckles, etc...

is free-play when you pedal a little and then it starts turning the tire? (like a few inches where nothing happens)?

is free-play when you pedal a little and then it starts turning the tire? (like a few inches where nothing happens)?

The free play he was talking about was in the bottom bracket bearings. What you are talking about would be in the freewheel or cassette where you have to move the pedals to the point where the pawls in the FW or cassette engage. Yours sounds normal, his did not.

As for the puller, my LBS had one with a handle for $12 and it works fine. Pulled the cranks off a couple of 30 year old Schwinns without a problem even with the short handle.

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Anyone have a comment on which type of crank-puller you prefer?

I didn't need to use a 'cheater bar' this time, have you ever used one to remove a stubborn crank?

I have both types of pullers: with the handle and without the handle, both Park.

I prefer the one with the handle for its convenience: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP%2D6 but for Park Tools, you may need one for ISIS cranks and one for square taper (yes I actually have both ISIS and square taper removers).

I also have this one, which works on both ISIS and square taper cranks: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CWP%2D6 Money-wise, this is probably the best deal for the home mechanic, since it's cheaper and you need not buy two different tools.

I've never had trouble taking off a crank using the remover with built in handle.

This is the one I got:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=26&item=CCP%2D2

It's a fine tool, don't get me wrong. It just that every design change has some compromise. In this case, the handle lined up with the crank the first time I used it. Chances are it won't line up with the crank every time (just as it's getting snug).