Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Stripping black paint off parts?

Is this easy to do? I've got a Motobecane Messenger and instead of the orange frame and black parts combination, I think I'd like it better if it was orange and silver/chrome.

The parts that are black that I want to change are the cranks, stem, and seatpost. Could I do this with something like airplane stripper? Will I need to coat it with anything else? Will it even be silver under?

1st. Why you gotta pick on black paint?
2nd. You won't be able to fit any airplane strippers on ur messenger... you need to get yourself a cockpit.

Hahaha...

Ok seriously.

Its going to depend on if those parts are painted or anodized etc. Any paint stripper/thinner and some steel wool or metal brush should work if in fact the parts are painted.

The thing that I would be concerned about is what the components themselves are made of. If they're steel and you strip the paint they'll be prone to rusting and such. They won't be chrome unless you dip them in chrome. What I might consider (unless you really want the "bare metal" look) is either...

A. Painting them silver or chrome. Obv prep them properly first and do it in the right temps cuz chrome/silver paint is like the hardest thing to make look good.

or

B. Buy some silver parts off ebay and then sell your black parts. You could also toss them up in the trade thread.

Is this easy to do? I've got a Motobecane Messenger and instead of the orange frame and black parts combination, I think I'd like it better if it was orange and silver/chrome.

The parts that are black that I want to change are the cranks, stem, and seatpost. Could I do this with something like airplane stripper? Will I need to coat it with anything else? Will it even be silver under?

ANODIZING, can be removed with oven cleaner (get the stinky toxic stuff), just pretend the crank arm, stem, seat post, whatever is an oven and follow the directions on the can.

for painted small aluminum parts that you WILL NOT BE PAINTING AGAIN, use the gel type paint strippers (kleen-strip, etc,...), and after applying, wrap the part in plastic wrap, and leave it alone for a couple of hours, then hose off with a high pressure water jet spray RIDICULOUSLY well.

1000 grit steel wool stroked in the same direction on aluminum gives a nice matte brushed look,...going farther up to 1500 grit (wool or paper), followed by a buffing wheel on a bench grinder or even a power drill gives a mirror finish.

after any finish treatment aluminum will start to corrode in minutes, so use one of these to protect the aluminum, and so you wont have to polish it over and over.

ZOOP-SEAL: is a treatment that prevents corrosion for a LONG time
http://www.zoopseal.com/product-listing.asp?ID=15
works for up to about three years, but needs to re-applied every three years.

GLISTEN PC: a special clearcoat for highly polished shiny surfaces, like chrome, or polished aluminum.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=GPC&dept=6
which lasts forever and a couple of days,....supposedly you can actually apply it with a regular ol paint brush, and it'll self level, and you get a sparkly clear finish.

I did my sugino cranks which were all scratched up and they are now brushed matte silver, and look brand new. (steel wool, and glisten pc)

ANODIZING, can be removed with oven cleaner (get the stinky toxic stuff), just pretend the crank arm, stem, seat post, whatever is an oven and follow the directions on the can.

for painted small aluminum parts that you WILL NOT BE PAINTING AGAIN, use the gel type paint strippers (kleen-strip, etc,...), and after applying, wrap the part in plastic wrap, and leave it alone for a couple of hours, then hose off with a high pressure water jet spray RIDICULOUSLY well.

1000 grit steel wool stroked in the same direction on aluminum gives a nice matte brushed look,...going farther up to 1500 grit (wool or paper), followed by a buffing wheel on a bench grinder or even a power drill gives a mirror finish.

after any finish treatment aluminum will start to corrode in minutes, so use one of these to protect the aluminum, and so you wont have to polish it over and over.

ZOOP-SEAL: is a treatment that prevents corrosion for a LONG time
http://www.zoopseal.com/product-listing.asp?ID=15
works for up to about three years, but needs to re-applied every three years.

GLISTEN PC: a special clearcoat for highly polished shiny surfaces, like chrome, or polished aluminum.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=GPC&dept=6
which lasts forever and a couple of days,....supposedly you can actually apply it with a regular ol paint brush, and it'll self level, and you get a sparkly clear finish.

I did my sugino cranks which were all scratched up and they are now brushed matte silver, and look brand new. (steel wool, and glisten pc)

Damn... thats some good info.

I did my sugino cranks which were all scratched up and they are now brushed matte silver, and look brand new. (steel wool, and glisten pc)

Pics?

Stripping ano and polishing it is a PITA, I recommend leaving the stuff black and spending the time riding.

Learn to live with it. I tried the Easy-Off solution and yeah, as Landgolier says, it is a pain in the aarse and it looks bad when done. I didn't polish it afterwards for very long but still, it takes a lot of work and time to get it looking good.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=3677840&postcount=38