Foo - Crap. Can I fix this?

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EthanYQX
03-16-08, 06:13 PM
I just finished my roll of film in my Minolta, took it out-and I've been shooting at the wrong friggen ASA. It's 100 asa film, I set the camera on 200 for about half the roll. ****. Now what? Will it absolutely ruin everything? Or can I save it?
mdcrisp2000
03-16-08, 06:21 PM
Everything will be underexposed, unfortunately. I don't have a clue what goes on in dark rooms, but you could probably ask the guys developing it (if you're not doing it yourself) to try and overexpose whichever negatives were done wrong. I have no idea if this is even possible, but it's gotta be worth a shot.
If not, scan them in and photoshop will be able to help a bit, but it'll never be as good as if they were exposed correctly in the camera.
EthanYQX
03-16-08, 06:24 PM
I'll mention it, but I'm not even sure when I changed the ASA setting. I have a habit of overexposing for effect, maybe that will compensate a bit?
same time
03-16-08, 08:33 PM
It's not ruined!
Just take it to a good photo store, and explain what you did. They'll just push it one stop in development, and you'll be fine. You'll lose a little bit of detail in the dark areas of the photos, and the contrast will be higher, and colors will look a little more saturated.
Who knows, you may even like the look, and start shooting your stuff that way all the time. That's what photography used to be about, before all this digital stuff.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Push_processing
dudewtfhillary
03-16-08, 09:21 PM
Or you could develop it yourself, and do your own printing. It'd be a lot easier to fix things if you could use different filters, etc.
Or you could develop it yourself, and do your own printing. It'd be a lot easier to fix things if you could use different filters, etc.Not everyone's lucky enough to have a fully-stocked darkroom in their house, you know. :p
Tom Stormcrowe
03-16-08, 09:40 PM
Welcome to the world of pushing and pulling ASA settings ;) You'll be amazed how far under or over ASA you can play with film and simply adjust for the pull or push in the developing.
Too bad you never got to play with Kodak Technical Pan BW film (No longer made and diminishing stock available.....I only have one roll left in the fridge! :(). It has no set ASA rating, and I've shot it at everything from ASA25 to ASA 1000 and gotten great results.
A guy I work with still shoots on film a lot, and uses push processing often, though I don't remember what his reasoning is. He does nature photography, so it's likely the contrast and saturation that same time mentioned. It sounds pretty neat, in any case.
What type of film is it? Most modern print films can have several steps of latitude. That is how many stops it can be over or under exposed and still give reasonable results. You would have been better off exposing the entire roll at the same ASA. Then the lab could have pushed/pulled (I cant remember which) on development. Now you have half a roll properly exposed and half not. If it was print and not slide film you will probably have not issues. This explains it better. http://www.tpub.com/content/photography/14130/css/14130_209.htm
In my film days everyone shot Velvia.. but set the ASA for around 75 instead of 50, the proper ASA, to push the saturation even farther.
donheff
03-17-08, 03:58 PM
Tell the photo shop to push it one stop when you take it in for developing. If you convert the prints or negatives to high resolution digital you can tweak the results to your heart's content.
You shot half the roll at ISO 200 and the other half at 100?
This is not something for a one hour place.
If you develop it regularly the second half of the roll will come out right.
If you push the film the half you shot at ISO 200 will come out right.
Pick the half of the roll you think has the best images, then decide if you want to push the film.
Also you are only off by one stop. A good printer may be able to salvage a lot of the roll.
Good old film photography is becoming a lost art these days. I sort of miss the days when getting prints, they were done in a darkroom and manually developed, then done from a machine, as opposed to most places that just do a scan of the negative and do a digital color print.
You can't beat film for tried and true archival life in a number of circumstances.
Good old film photography is becoming a lost art these days. I sort of miss the days when getting prints, they were done in a darkroom and manually developed, then done from a machine, as opposed to most places that just do a scan of the negative and do a digital color print.
You can't beat film for tried and true archival life in a number of circumstances.
Amen. Spitting ink at a page is not moving atoms with photons.
I've watched inkjet prints fade in two years, and none of my wet prints have moved at all.
I've been able to carve out a small niche because I'm one of the few around who still knows how to wet print.
EthanYQX
03-17-08, 06:09 PM
This is my first roll of film, ever. I'm not old enough to ever have had a film camera as a kid. So if I get my images digitized and put on a CD, I can print it on my photo printer and salvage it somewhat?
donheff
03-17-08, 06:18 PM
This is my first roll of film, ever. I'm not old enough to ever have had a film camera as a kid. So if I get my images digitized and put on a CD, I can print it on my photo printer and salvage it somewhat?
If you get it on a CD you need to find someone with some experience with Photoshop or GIMP to help you work with the images BEFORE you print them.
Yes. Decide what's more important to you, first or last half of the roll, and have it developed (pushed or not). Half of the roll will be correct, the other half will be between you and photoshop.
EthanYQX
03-17-08, 06:20 PM
This'll teach me to check the damn film...
Ah well, live and learn, right? I'll get my photography teacher from school to help me out...
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