Bicycle Mechanics - Need Idiot's Guide to Cassette Installation

I have a new wheel with a Shimano 9-10 hub. I have a new SRAM 9 speed cassette and lockring in the box all held in place with a plastic keeper sleeve.

I've read the Parktool guide to cassette installation and it seems dead easy:

Slide new cassette onto cassette body of new wheel, pushing the plastic keeper out as the cassette slides on to make sure everything goes on in the order it was assembled at the factory.

Install lock ring to torque spec.

I know I should grease the threads of the lockring - any reason I shouldn't lightly grease the inside of the cassette body and the splines on the free hub?

Then I imagine I simply put the new wheel on the bike and make sure the high and low stops on the derailleur are properly set - then adjust the shifting as normal.

Am I missing anything? Is there any chance that I will need anything that is not included with the cassette in the box, like spacers or such?

It just seems so simple to me, I know how to set high and low stops and adjust indexing, but I don't want the derailleur to go into the spokes first time I crank it up.

My current wheel has the exact same cassette on it - but it is a Mavic Aksium wheel. The new one is a Reynolds hub.

Thanks!

Greasing the inside and the freehub is a very good way to avoid rust issues. I strongly recomend it.

As long as you have the spline tool for tightening up the lock ring then the rest is just as you say above.

Greasing the inside and the freehub is a very good way to avoid rust issues. I strongly recomend it.

As long as you have the spline tool for tightening up the lock ring then the rest is just as you say above.

My default is always to grease things that are in contact cinched down, but sometimes it's not indicated, so thanks for that.

Yea, I've got the lockring tool. Thanks. Might do it tonight, but am also awaiting new tires and tubes and there's still snow on the ground so I guess there's no rush!

First time I did this, I couldn't get the cogs and spacers to just come off the plastic carrier and go smoothly on the hub like it shows on the video. I ended up doing them one-by-one. But as long as you keep the order and orientation correct of all the cogs and spacers, you can't go wrong.

- Mark

It's very hard to mess up, as the cogs only go on one way. Just check things carefully and make sure there's no play in anything when you're done.

If after you tighten down the lockring there is a little play (left/right) in the cassette, you will need to add this spacer:

http://www.aspirevelotech.com/ebayimages/CKing/Parts/spaceronhub.jpg

Bob

If after you tighten down the lockring there is a little play (left/right) in the cassette, you will need to add this spacer:

http://www.aspirevelotech.com/ebayimages/CKing/Parts/spaceronhub.jpg

Bob

Ah, thanks - this is exactly the sort of stuff I'm looking for, possible issues and solutions. I'm going to assume it's dead easy, but at least I have one potential "normal" problem identified.

I think one of the things you learn as you work on stuff whether it's cars, bikes, home improvements, etc. is what sort of small problems are really normal and easy to solve.... as opposed to the instructions that usually indicate everything should go smoothly and things should fit perfectly.

I think you've got it all figured out. If you need to remove the cassette at some point you'll need a chainwhip to keep the hub from turning when you undo the lockring. Other than that it's pretty simple.

The hub splines are asymetrical so the the cogs will only go on one way, no chance for a SNAFU except lining up the smallest cog.
Use plenty of torque, the cassette needs to be tight, no looseness or movement between cogs.
There is no need for grease on the outside of the freehub or inside of the cassette, it will just collect dust.

Al

Not to long ago, I got a new cassette with the intention of mixing cogs with my current cassette to make a "custom".
On my old spacers, a bit of material had "extruded" into the 3 rivet holes in the cogs, leaving a "raised" section on the spacer by the hole. I didn't notice it initially, and I didn't have enough room for the lockring to seat properly.
Most of your cogs will be attached to each other by rivets/screws etc., so you'll only have a "minimum" of loose cogs anyway. I didn't realize the plastic holder was an installation tool?:)

.. I didn't realize the plastic holder was an installation tool?:)

Well, I can't say based on experience, but the video clip I looked at showed them sliding the cassette on the freehub, pushing the plastic keeper out the other end. We'll see....

I'd start by throwing that plastic thing away, you don't need it.

Al

Since you are replacing with an identical cassette, I would think that if you do need a spacer (unlikely) there will already be one there. Just keep track of what comes off, and make sure the same stuff goes on (only newer). You can reuse any spacers, especially since spacers are not subjected to friction, they don't wear out.

Since you are replacing with an identical cassette, I would think that if you do need a spacer (unlikely) there will already be one there. Just keep track of what comes off, and make sure the same stuff goes on (only newer). You can reuse any spacers, especially since spacers are not subjected to friction, they don't wear out.

Brand new wheel, brand new cassette. Old cassette is staying on old wheel. I do have an old cassette in a box somewhere (taken off just to change cluster). I'll look there first for a spacer if I need one on the new cassette/wheel.

Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.

Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.

Good point! I misread the OP, thought he was installing a 10-speed cassette. Have edited my previous post.

Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.

This is one of the reasons I asked my question - I had this vague memory of reading somewhere that some hubs required a special spacer or such. My new wheel/hub is Reynolds, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Why is Mavic like that? I always thought the various freehub bodies (in this case Shimano 9/10) were generic, regardless of the hub they were fitted on. Why and how is Mavic different?

For what it's worth, my old wheel is Mavic (Aksium, a nice wheel by the way), but since the cassette is staying on there, it isn't an issue for me.

Thanks again to everyone for the comments.

This is one of the reasons I asked my question - I had this vague memory of reading somewhere that some hubs required a special spacer or such. My new wheel/hub is Reynolds, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Why is Mavic like that? I always thought the various freehub bodies (in this case Shimano 9/10) were generic, regardless of the hub they were fitted on. Why and how is Mavic different?

For what it's worth, my old wheel is Mavic (Aksium, a nice wheel by the way), but since the cassette is staying on there, it isn't an issue for me.

Thanks again to everyone for the comments.

Many, not all, MAVIC hubs have been designed to accept their MAVIC cassette which is 2 mm wider than a Shimano 9-speed (which is 1 mm wider than a Shimano 10-speed).

I put the cassette on the free hub this evening, but the outermost sprocket doesn't seem to seat in the splines.

This is a SRAM 970 9 speed. The cassette is all one piece except for the smallest (outermost) sprocket and the lock ring. The main body of the cassette slid on easily, and seemed to go onto the freehub as far as possible. But when I went to put the smallest sprocket on, it will just BARELY seat on the freehub splines, I mean barely - if I pushed down on it, it would seat enough to keep from spinning freely, but let up that pressure at all and it was if it didn't seat at all.

It is properly aligned with the splines.

I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring.

Thanks again!

I put the cassette on the free hub this evening, but the outermost sprocket doesn't seem to seat in the splines.

This is a SRAM 970 9 speed. The cassette is all one piece except for the smallest (outermost) sprocket and the lock ring. The main body of the cassette slid on easily, and seemed to go onto the freehub as far as possible. But when I went to put the smallest sprocket on, it will just BARELY seat on the freehub splines, I mean barely - if I pushed down on it, it would seat enough to keep from spinning freely, but let up that pressure at all and it was if it didn't seat at all.

It is properly aligned with the splines.

I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring.

Thanks again!

Just bumping this up to see if I can get any words of wisdom before I take a whack at it with the torque wrench. Thanks again!

Are you installing an 11T cog?
Possibly the Free Hun is NOT a Compact stle and therefore won't work with 11T.

http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec

Are you installing an 11T cog?
Possibly the Free Hun is NOT a Compact stle and therefore won't work with 11T.

http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec

No, it's a 12. I think it's OK. My plan is to inspect everything carefully, reinstall everything and torque the lock ring to spec - then take the lock ring off again (yes, I have a chain whip), and just take a look to see if it's settled in to engage the splines. I'm pretty confident I'll be able to tell if it's engaged adequately or not. If I'm not sure, I'll just take it to the LBS and double check.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Were you able to fit the last cog and lockring properly? I am having same problem. I have a brand new PG950, 9 speed casseette and the lockring seems way too small for the 12T cog threads.

The outer circumference of the threads on the lockring do not even extend all the way to the threads on inner circumference of the 12T cog. What gives? I think I may have received mis-assembled cassette. It's hard to believe they make mistakes like that.

What gives? I think I may have received mis-assembled cassette. It's hard to believe they make mistakes like that.

Beware of shops that will mix-and-match their cassettes, then jury-rig something out of the remains to sell to you. Had it happen to me more times then I care, at two different local shops.

-Kurt

Cuda, I bought this cassette on eBay. It was brand new in a sealed original package. It doesn't seem like they've mixed parts up. If it helps any, the SRAM lock ring is black in color. Is that how its supposed to be?

I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring.

Thanks again!

This sounds like it may be normal. How did it turn out?

Al

Cuda, I bought this cassette on eBay. It was brand new in a sealed original package. It doesn't seem like they've mixed parts up. If it helps any, the SRAM lock ring is black in color. Is that how its supposed to be?

Unfortunately (perhaps more so then I think?), I've only fiddled with Shimano cassettes, so I wouldn't know which SRAM lockring would apply to your 12t cog. Best thing would be to post photos.

Take care,

-Kurt

http://160.129.141.112/crypticlineage/bikeforums/pg951-incorrect-lockring.png

If it helps any, the SRAM lock ring is black in color. Is that how its supposed to be?

My SRAM 11-28 bought and installed a few months ago came with a silver lock ring but it's a road cassette OG-something. But yours is a mountain cassette and I think they do come with black lockrings.

I'm not familiar with the differences between road and mountain casettes - is it possible you're trying to install a mountain cassette on a road hub not designed for it?

- Mark

There are no differences between a mountain and road cassette. It is a marketing term, usually meaning that the mountain cassette has a larger range of gears. A mountain cassette will fit on a road hub and vice versa.

To answer a couple of today's questions:

I have two SRAM 12-26 9 speed cassettes, one a PG950 (about a year old on my old wheels),the other a PG970 (new wheels).

The 950 has a dark colored lock ring, the 970 chrome colored. Therefore either color lock ring is normal depending on the model number. By the way, I just double checked on the website and don't see a PG951 as labeled on your photo.

Also, as far as I can see from the SRAM website, the 9 speed part numbers for cassettes are the same whether on the MTB section or the Road section. Both have PG950 and PG970. Therefore I don't think the issue is one of MTB vs. road cassette. Without looking at it, I can't advise. My cassette was just dead simple to install, one of the simplest bike DIY's - except for the minor issue I described...

Installation status: as I mentioned earlier, my problem was not with the threads on the lock ring engaging with the threads on the outermost sprocket. My problem was with the way the outermost sprocket (12t) fit onto the splines of the free hub. They just barely engaged and wouldn't actually engage unless I pushed on the sprocket. I had no difficulty threading the lockring onto the threads of the 12t sprocket though. And, when I hand tightened the lock ring, it pushed the 12t sprocket inward enough to firmly engage the splines.

I torqued it up to spec and the sprocket seemed fully seated on the splines. I then later removed it just to take a look-see (and also to use my new chain whip!). The torquing appears to have somehow compressed the cassette OR forced it a little further onto the freehub because the 12t sprocket seems to be a little more firmly engaged onto the splines than before. This is just a tiny change, not drastic.

Anyway, my issue is not related to threading the lock nut. I hope you figure this out - if so, please post your findings!

I am taking the cassette to the LBS today to get their opinion.

Update: The wrench at LBS told me without even looking at the cassette that the lock ring will screw onto the hub body and it should be fine. I am going to try to install it now and I will post an update in a little bit.

There are no differences between a mountain and road cassette. It is a marketing term, usually meaning that the mountain cassette has a larger range of gears. A mountain cassette will fit on a road hub and vice versa.

Interesting. So is the 5mm difference between the axle nuts (130mm road vs. 135mm mtn) all due to the mtn hub being wider inboard of the cassette?

- Mark

I'm a little confused on your question. Do you mean that the distance between the flanges are wider on a mountain hub? If that's the case, then the answer is no. At least for the Shimano XT and Ultegra hubs. The Ultegra hub actually has a wider distance between the flanges. The Ultegra's flange distance is 59.2mm for the FH-6600 and the XT FH-M770-S is 57.4mm. Though the distance is greater for the Ultegra, the center to right flange distance is greater and the center to left flange is smaller for the XT. This allows for a less dished wheel, making it stronger. The extra 5mm is needed to move the hub to the right. This is accomplished with a longer axle and spacers.

Beware of shops that will mix-and-match their cassettes, then jury-rig something out of the remains to sell to you. Had it happen to me more times then I care, at two different local shops.

-Kurt

+1

Just had this happen to me on CL. Didn't catch it in time, too dark during the transaction.
Seller slipped both a 12 and 11 tooth last cog onto the body and used a 12 tooth lockring. The shifting was all FUBAR. Now I need to find a 7-spd 14 or 13 tooth 6th HG cog. I hope the LBS will have one in their junk pile.

Seller slipped both a 12 and 11 tooth last cog onto the body and used a 12 tooth lockring. The shifting was all FUBAR.

Easy enough to spot - but just wait until they put a 7-speed spacer in an 8-speed cassette, or a 7-speed second cog in an 8-speed cassette, with a 9-speed spacer to compromise for the visual difference. Or how about a few mixed and matched cogs with different rampings?

Gotta train yourself to spot those 1mm differences between spacing, and check the cog series letters. Know the cassette you want beforehand - check Sheldon's chart to find out which Shimano letter codes apply to the cassette that you intend to purchase. Don't know if such a thing exists for the Shimano-compatible cassettes out there. Tricky business.

-Kurt