Letour

[Jtgyk]

Just bought this for $100...so far all I've done is replaced the tape and a cursory cleaning.
Its a 1986 Schwinn Letour road bike; 57cm top tube; triple chain ring, 7 speed cassette (total of 21 speeds). Computer (needs battery) and SPD pedals (replaced with platforms to test) included.

Didn't know that Letour came in 21 speed flavor and has index shifting on the down tube.

I'm riding it rather gingerly now learning how much to trust 700c wheels.

So was I insane to get this or not? I'm a big Big boy.

http://photos-ak.sparkpeople.com/5/4/l545328246.jpg

[Tom Stormcrowe]

At some point, you'll want to have the wheels rebuilt with a DeepV rim like the Velocity. You done good though on the price. ;)

You won't be able to go to a modern wheel hub though unless you either have the frame cold set for 130MM or have a Peter White 126 MM hub built to a wheel. ;) I'm presuming that has Maillard Hubs, and that's what my '86 Schwinn has. I just replaced the 5 speed Freewheel with a 6 speed Schimano freewheel with narrow spacing. It does great :D

Incidentally, those Box rims will do surprisingly well. Are you sure they are 700C though? Schwinn was still using the 27" (630-32), in those days. ;)

[v1k1ng1001]

gotta start somewhere

it looks a lot like a frame i have laying around

how do the tires look?

[Jtgyk]

The rims say "ARAYA 700c" and has 700X25c tires. Tires look good and still have the "hairs" on them.

Suntour hub and rim on front. (ARAYA only on back)

[MNBiker]

My LeTour also has 27" tires on it, along with six gears in back and two on the front. I wonder if someone didn't do some upgrading on the original parts. I believe sometime the brake calipers have enough adjustment room so that 700's can fit on a frame designed for 27".

There are definite gaps in my knowledge however so take it all with a grain of salt.

[Jtgyk]

My LeTour also has 27" tires on it, along with six gears in back and two on the front. I wonder if someone didn't do some upgrading on the original parts. I believe sometime the brake calipers have enough adjustment room so that 700's can fit on a frame designed for 27".

There are definite gaps in my knowledge however so take it all with a grain of salt.

Don't know for sure. The guy I bought it from was the Original owner and bought it straight from one of the LBS's. He knows the owner though, and may have been offered an upgrade. Isn't ARAYA the original rim for the letour? I'd personally feel more confident with the 27's.

[Tom Stormcrowe]

Well Araya makes a good wheel. ;)


Edit: 700C are stronger than 27", by the way. ;)The rims say "ARAYA 700c" and has 700X25c tires. Tires look good and still have the "hairs" on them.

Suntour hub and rim on front. (ARAYA only on back)

[East Hill]

Your cranks are definitely not original to the bike:
"Introduced in 1989, Blaze was SunTour's lowest (6th) raod group. It was typically used on models that were on the border of entry and mid-range. I'm not fsamilar with a Miyata X14. Two Miyata models that used Blaze were the entry level 112 and the low mid-range model 414. In the latter case, the first "4" in the decal used a different font and color from the "14", so this may be the model you are talking about. If you've got pics, I should be able to identify it.

Blaze has a couple of problems, based on the bicycles I've worked on. First, the Accushift index system works OK, but if the levers, derailleurs or freewheel wear out, they are not compatible with any other system and it is hard to find replacements, so you may have to replace all three components to retain indexed shifting. Secondly, the pivots on the rear derailleurs seem to wear at a much higher rate than normal. I've seen a couple of samples with this problem. They still shift OK, but look like they are about to self-destruct."

East Hill

[Jtgyk]

Just did a Google search and found a bunch of circa 80's letour's with 21 speed index shifting and 700c wheelsets. Must have been an option for purchase.

[Jtgyk]

Well Araya makes a good wheel. ;)


Edit: 700C are stronger than 27", by the way. ;)

Thanks I feel better about riding them.

[mparker326]

I've got the same wheelset on my '89 Traveler. I kept breaking spokes because the original spoke tension was very low. If it hasn't been ridden very much, check the spoke tension and make sure it is adequate.

In fact, your bike looks like an 89 and not an 86. 86 didn't have aero brake levers.

http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1980_1990/1989_Ltwt_10.html

[Jtgyk]

Your cranks are definitely not original to the bike:
"Introduced in 1989, Blaze was SunTour's lowest (6th) raod group. It was typically used on models that were on the border of entry and mid-range. I'm not fsamilar with a Miyata X14. Two Miyata models that used Blaze were the entry level 112 and the low mid-range model 414. In the latter case, the first "4" in the decal used a different font and color from the "14", so this may be the model you are talking about. If you've got pics, I should be able to identify it.

Blaze has a couple of problems, based on the bicycles I've worked on. First, the Accushift index system works OK, but if the levers, derailleurs or freewheel wear out, they are not compatible with any other system and it is hard to find replacements, so you may have to replace all three components to retain indexed shifting. Secondly, the pivots on the rear derailleurs seem to wear at a much higher rate than normal. I've seen a couple of samples with this problem. They still shift OK, but look like they are about to self-destruct."
East Hill

Is this the reason that the chain will come off the top "guide wheel" (sorry don't know the real name) of the rear deralleur if backpedaled too much... or is that fixable with adjustment?
It works fine as long as its pedaled forward.

[East Hill]

Is this the reason that the chain will come off the top "guide wheel" (sorry don't know the real name) of the rear deralleur if backpedaled too much... or is that fixable with adjustment?
It works fine as long as its pedaled forward.

I would say that the top pivot (the 'guide wheel') is worn, so that could be why the chain is coming off, yes. It sounds as if you would want to replace the pivot. Check in with the C & V crowd to see if anyone happens to have either a pivot, or a spare appropriate derailleur.

East Hill

[late]

1) Nice bike, buy it. I wish I could. Btw, how tall are you?

2) Take it to a bike shop and ask for a complete tune up, and have them work on the wheels. If you can, ask a cyclist for a reference to a good shop.

3) Now you can take it for a real ride. The fit may not be perfect as is, so you may need a shorter or longer stem. I'm a big fan of the Nitto Technomics Deluxe stem. If the fit is close, you can worry about that later when it's time to spiff the bike up a bit.

4) You will want new tires. If you are just getting back into cycling I suggest the
Rivendell Roly Poly or Ruffy Tuffy tires. They are 27c and have a nice ride.

5) There are a number of optional things you can do. I'd add bar end shifters so you don't have to reach so far. I'd also get a Brooks saddle.

[Jtgyk]

1) Nice bike, buy it. I wish I could. Btw, how tall are you?

2) Take it to a bike shop and ask for a complete tune up, and have them work on the wheels. If you can, ask a cyclist for a reference to a good shop.

3) Now you can take it for a real ride. The fit may not be perfect as is, so you may need a shorter or longer stem. I'm a big fan of the Nitto Technomics Deluxe stem. If the fit is close, you can worry about that later when it's time to spiff the bike up a bit.

4) You will want new tires. If you are just getting back into cycling I suggest the
Rivendell Roly Poly or Ruffy Tuffy tires. They are 27c and have a nice ride.

5) There are a number of optional things you can do. I'd add bar end shifters so you don't have to reach so far. I'd also get a Brooks saddle.

*I'm 6' tall and the standover is close but still ok.

*Got a good bikeshop and will be getting said tune up as a matter of course. Cleaning the bike before taking it in is a habit of mine. (same as taking a shower before going to the doctor)

*Fits pretty well right now...but will probably have a fit done eventually at the LBS.

*Tires are still pretty new, but will eventually opt for a cushier ride.

*I'm not a fan of the downtube shifter myself....will be exploring options (have no problems with friction stem shifters).

[late]

*I'm 6' tall and the standover is close but still ok.

*Got a good bikeshop and will be getting said tune up as a matter of course. Cleaning the bike before taking it in is a habit of mine. (same as taking a shower before going to the doctor)

*Fits pretty well right now...but will probably have a fit done eventually at the LBS.

*Tires are still pretty new, but will eventually opt for a cushier ride.

*I'm not a fan of the downtube shifter myself....will be exploring options (have no problems with friction stem shifters).

Good,
just for giggles, this is what I'd do in roughly the order I'd do it. I usually have a spare Brooks kicking around, so on it would go. If the wheels weren't rock solid, I'd get new ones. There are lots of choices, which ones depends on your weight, budget, and preferences. I have Ambrosio Excellence rims on Ultegra hubs. Makes for a very attractive wheel that doesn't cost a ton. But there are literally a hundred other choices, if you get to that point do a post asking about it; and you will get 50 different options to pick from. Oh, I'd do the bar end shifters right off the bat. You can get NOS 8 speed stuff off Ebay cheap. I have a bunch of it in the cellar waiting for a frame like that.

[v1k1ng1001]

I would just be worried that even if the tires haven't been ridden, the rubber would have aged which would alter performance and durability. If you think they're as old as that bike, it would probably be wise to replace them.

[Jtgyk]

Tires are at most just over a year old, but will probably get new ones when I take it in for a tune-up/check. I know it hasn't been ridden for just over a year. (When the PO went to carbon fiber)

[the engine]

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff100/gabworx/1990SchwinnLeTour.jpg

Here is my LeTour ... I am 240 lbs., and have put thousands of miles on this bike (as well as an aluminum Cannondale RW700) ... not problems.

[Jtgyk]

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff100/gabworx/1990SchwinnLeTour.jpg

Here is my LeTour ... I am 240 lbs., and have put thousands of miles on this bike (as well as an aluminum Cannondale RW700) ... not problems.

engine

Sweet ride! How did you get it so clean?...Mine still has some grime that seems to have worked its way into the paint. Also did you replace the crank. rear dérailleur, and brakes?

Took mine for a 2 mile ride. Feels good...but I'm still riding carefully...nothing over 20mph...on nice smooth roads. I'm working with it little by little until I get to know and trust what it can handle.
I've got 130lbs on you and don't want to leave several pounds of hamburger behind if I have a wheel failure.
Did that skidding on my chest, belly, and arms through the handlebars of a stingray (they had just come out) thing once when I was 10. Wasn't fond of the experience.

[b_young]

No! No! No! That bike is totally wrong for you in every way. It will only do you harm, so you should just donate it to me.:D

I have a '72 schwinn varsity. Its actually my uncles but we have been swapping it back and forth since the early '80's. I think I get it everytime it needs work. I love it though. The frame is heavier than anything else today but I never really noticed that much. The only complaint I have with it was the shifters. It is a 10 speed and I only use 1,5 and 10th while riding it. I love the new click shifts. The wheels may need replaced eventually as mentioned but as long as you avoid potholes and slow down for RR tracks they should last a long time.

Nice find and happy trails.

[Halthane]

you wont have a problem with 130mm hubs in that frame, you'll have to flex it a little to get it in but it'll fit just fine.

[v1k1ng1001]

Was this perchance on Houston Craigslist? I think I remember seeing it.

[Jtgyk]

Was this perchance on Houston Craigslist? I think I remember seeing it.

Nope...it was in the DFW Craigs list.

[ludeboy_77]

I dont think that is an 86, looks more like an 88 or so. Take a close look at the head badge and post the date code that is engraved on it, that will tell you the year of the frame. I have a 12 Speed letour that I bought new with the same wheels and suntour gear set. Bike has lasted for almost 20 years with a 200+ lb rider so I would say they are good bikes. My letour will be getting a paint job, new wheels, group and brakes for its 20th birthday next year. I think it deserves it.

[bautieri]

Nice bike!

If you don't mind me asking an off topic question, how do you like the tube shifters? I've never rode a bike with them but they seem awkward to me.

Bau

[Jtgyk]

Nice bike!

If you don't mind me asking an off topic question, how do you like the tube shifters? I've never rode a bike with them but they seem awkward to me.

Bau

They pretty much suck until you get used to them......then they're just awkward. I may go to bar end shifters when I recover from the tuneup and new tire expense....or forget about indexed and do friction shifters on the stem.

Not a horrible ride as is though.

[Jtgyk]

I would say that the top pivot (the 'guide wheel') is worn, so that could be why the chain is coming off, yes. It sounds as if you would want to replace the pivot. Check in with the C & V crowd to see if anyone happens to have either a pivot, or a spare appropriate derailleur.

East Hill

Found the problem when I took it in for the tune up. It was a bent hanger. I get it back on the 15th (busy time of year here in Texas) and can't wait to play.

[Jtgyk]

OK...Here's the scoop

I heard back from the LBS shop today and found that along with the RD hanger being bent...that the RD is toast. refitting with new front and rear dérailleurs and replacing the rear cassette they said would cost an extra $200 (rounded up).
So allong with the $175 I was planning on putting into the thing and my initial investment of $100, its beginning to look like I should cut my losses pay the $30 worth of work they've put into it so far, and bail out. Maybe think of just buying a new entry level bike. I hate the idea of going to a hybrid though.

Thoughts and suggestions are welcomed.

[jyossarian]

Turn it into a SS and ditch the derailleurs.

edit: If you don't want to spend more money, and the dropouts are horizontal, remove the RD and FD, pick a chainring/cog combo that's straight, shorten the chain and you've got a cheap SS. If the dropouts are vertical, you'll need to keep tension on the chain so leave the RD on.

edit edit: Looks horizontal to me. Ditch the RD.

[flip18436572]

You can get an entry level road bike for the same amount of money you would have totally invested in that older bike. That would be the way I would go, but each person has their own ideas of what will work for them.

Good luck in whatever way you go.

[ludeboy_77]

Post the question over in C&V. A shop should be able to replace the RD without swapping the whole drivetrain. But it is up to you. You should be able to recover the price you paid for the bike, so if you want to go with a new bike the option is open. The real question should be, how well does this old Schwinn fit you?

When you get bitten by the cycling bug, dropping 200 bucks happens all the time.

[Black Shuck]

I'd buy that thing a semi-cheap ss wheelset and cranks, with moderate gearing and 28mm tires it would be a good all day bike unless it's very hilly where you live :-) Or get a small bunch of tools, learn how the stuff works and maybe buy used replacement parts on eBay or somesuch and save a bunch, there's life in that bike still.

[Jtgyk]

Post the question over in C&V. A shop should be able to replace the RD without swapping the whole drivetrain. But it is up to you. You should be able to recover the price you paid for the bike, so if you want to go with a new bike the option is open. The real question should be, how well does this old Schwinn fit you?

When you get bitten by the cycling bug, dropping 200 bucks happens all the time.

the drive train is Blaze / SunTour.. noted for not working with anything else and is now hard to find.
I may just look on Ebay and see if I can find anything.

The size is fine.

[Torque1st]

My LeTour is a 73 model and it is still all original except for the tires, brake pads, tape, and seat. It is in pristine condition. I am not sure where the original seat is. I replaced it immediately on purchase with a leather seat. I still have the original owner's manual and brochure.

[Little Darwin]

At some point, you'll want to have the wheels rebuilt with a DeepV rim like the Velocity. You done good though on the price. ;)


I decided to look at a Velocity rim in response to this, and look what I found:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RI308B05-Velocity+Dyad+Rim.aspx

The Velocity Dyad with drillings for 32, 40 and 42 spokes.

Would someone explain what spoke pattern works with 42 spokes. :D



PS - I know it is just a typo

;)

[Jtgyk]

Just picked the bike up from the shop. They had been good enough to call before doing too much work...and after deciding the options offered by them weren't the way I wanted to go...they didn't charge me.

Found a RD on Ebay that says it will work with my setup...so I'll be taking this as an opportunity to learn some mechanic-ing.

[Torque1st]

Just picked the bike up from the shop. They had been good enough to call before doing too much work...and after deciding the options offered by them weren't the way I wanted to go...they didn't charge me.
You mean you didn't want to slide a new bike in under the seat???:D

[Jtgyk]

You mean you didn't want to slide a new bike in under the seat???:D

Welllll....they DID have a nice used Raleigh Super Sport (current year I think) for $550...but I just did my taxes and have a kid going to college out of state. If I'd gone for it the DW would have Killed me.
:eek:

I'll have to do the letour piecemeal...just found a used RD on ebay that should work with my existing system.
:)

Spokes on the back need tightening and should be ready to go. Did my 4 mile commute this morning on it and it seems ok.

Now if I can move those down tube shifters.....
:p

Oh...with the # stamped on the BB H905595...I guess that means it's a 1990 model?

[Torque1st]

The down tube shifters work OK, not as convenient as others but they work. You will get used to them.

Now get those spokes tightened, that wheel aligned, and that RD replaced. There are people to help in the mechanic forum.

[Jtgyk]

The verdict is in! The LeTour stays in the stable!

Spokes tightened, new Continental Sport tires, replaced rear Der (not Blaze but still Accushift. Works great!) and put on an Avatar Gel saddle and the clips from my Hardrock.

Between the Collin Classic and commuting, I did 35 miles of rolling hills on June 14. (I'm very relieved that I didn't choose to ride the Hardrock!) The LeTour did great. By the end I was even happy with the down tube shifting.

The seat was an ordeal! I took it back to the LBS and exchanged it for a Brooks B17....It it sooo much better! Now I'll have to get a Brooks for the Hardrock.

[freeagent1970]

Very nice bike...as tom said arayas are nice..i restore old bmx bikes and arayas are the "best" in that world..i love the bike

[Torque1st]

I am glad you like it! :D

[Wogsterca]

Just bought this for $100...so far all I've done is replaced the tape and a cursory cleaning.
Its a 1986 Schwinn Letour road bike; 57cm top tube; triple chain ring, 7 speed cassette (total of 21 speeds). Computer (needs battery) and SPD pedals (replaced with platforms to test) included.

Didn't know that Letour came in 21 speed flavor and has index shifting on the down tube.

I'm riding it rather gingerly now learning how much to trust 700c wheels.

So was I insane to get this or not? I'm a big Big boy.


http://photos-ak.sparkpeople.com/7/7/l773043537.jpg

I didn't know that ANYONE did index on the down tube shifters. 700c wheels come in a variety of flavours, and they can all be good. The real issue is, spoke tension, the heavier the rider and/or lower the spoke count, the more important spoke tension becomes. If there is a wheel builder close by, who is fairly competent, then take the wheels to them, and get the wheels checked over, paying special attention to spoke tension. This is especially important for the rear wheel, which holds most of the weight. With a bike that old, you might want to get them to repack the hubs as well, hubs use grease as a lubricant, as it gets older, some of the solvents will evaporate off, and the grease becomes gummy. This is not a good thing, maybe getting the wheels maintained will cost you another $100 or so, but your still doing well.....

[Jtgyk]

(interesting photo's have been popping up in this thread. don't know where the pix of the lady's with the drinks come from.)
:wtf:
Another 20 miler with the Brooks and, after adjusting the nose upward (go figure) it's turning into one sweet ride.
:)
http://photos-ak.sparkpeople.com/5/8/l589071077.jpg