Fifty Plus (50+) - Got my cyclocross frame!

And most of the parts. I've started assembling her and already I know she'll be light and sweet! Performance installed a BB for free w/purchase but the fork wasn't installed. I expect I'll be riding her by this time next week. Pictures to follow!

Yes, pictures please!

I got the fork installed this afternoon and I'm connecting the v-brakes now. Next comes the taping the handlebars, running the bar end shifters, and installing the chain.

I got the brakes cabled and the bar retaped without too much effort. The barcon adaptors fit nicely and I chose the 6/7 speed Accushift levers. The chain went on without shortening & had a quick connect (though it never is for me).

Thats when things got interesting. The Jagwire gold braid cable is flecked fiber and it frayed when cutting. I had to do several segments due to the routing on the frame. The cable end caps wouldn't fit over half of the cuts - and I needed every inch of the cable provided so I couldn't afford to recut. I spent a lot of time with nail clippers trying to trim down the excess material to fit the end caps. After wrestling for 90 minutes on one cable I had to redo with a new cable because the provided one was too short. The new cable became trash because a strand got bunched up and unwound all the way to the other end. [note - this will seize up the cable in a housing]. I expect it took 4 hours to get two lousy cables installed. I hope the Gold look was worth it.

I'll try of some picture tomorrow. I have to run 700x23c now because the front rim is too narrow. Once I get a new front wheel (probably Sun CR-18 rims) I'll put the 700x35 cyclocross tires installed.

Thats when things got interesting. The Jagwire gold braid cable is flecked fiber and it frayed when cutting. I had to do several segments due to the routing on the frame. The cable end caps wouldn't fit over half of the cuts - and I needed every inch of the cable provided so I couldn't afford to recut. I spent a lot of time with nail clippers trying to trim down the excess material to fit the end caps. After wrestling for 90 minutes on one cable I had to redo with a new cable because the provided one was too short. The new cable became trash because a strand got bunched up and unwound all the way to the other end. [note - this will seize up the cable in a housing]. I expect it took 4 hours to get two lousy cables installed. I hope the Gold look was worth it.


Would a bit of solder on the cable ends work instead of the end caps? When I have time, I typically try to use this approach instead of the end caps. This way I can adjust, lube, etc. without worrying about the end cap coming off and having to replace it.

Would a bit of solder on the cable ends work instead of the end caps? When I have time, I typically try to use this approach instead of the end caps. This way I can adjust, lube, etc. without worrying about the end cap coming off and having to replace it.
No, wrong cable ends - I've got a jar of the little lead (or whatever) crimp ends. I guess I meant ferrules that keep the cable running cleanly in and out of the cable housings. They match up with the cable guides, shifter, and sometimes dérailleur housings.

I spent some non-quality time trying to true the rear wheel slightly so it wont rub on the rather closely fitted brake pads. At noon today I found I had the Accushift set at index 6 instead of 7. The change back to 7 helped it click through gears consistently. There are still only 5 clicks since the last shift is silent.

It' deary and raining today or I'd get the pictures posted. If I get the eggbeater cleats mounted I may ride her (unnamed as yet) to work tomorrow.

On other news I picked up 2 SuperBe Pro rear derailleurs, on SuperBe Pro braze-on front derailleur, one SuperBe clamp on derailleur, and a Shimano 600 clamp on derailleur yesterday. I'm hoping to sell on SuperBe Pro set to recoup the price of all 5.

What do you cut your cable housings with? I cut mine with a 4" Makita grinder with a .035" cut off wheel and never have a fraying problem.

What do you cut your cable housings with? I cut mine with a 4" Makita grinder with a .035" cut off wheel and never have a fraying problem.

I was using a Park cable cutter but it started having issues after a dozen cuts. I have another name brand (forgot which - but it has black handles). Part of the problem is the fiber braid; all of the other housings have been plastic or plastic coated braided metal.

I really like using the cut off wheels as well. In my case a dremel setup. I cut the housing a 1/4 inch lond and then dress it with the cutoff wheel trimming. A scriber is then used to flare open the inner core before it cools which has melted to a squished shape.

I was using a Park cable cutter but it started having issues after a dozen cuts. I have another name brand (forgot which - but it has black handles). Part of the problem is the fiber braid; all of the other housings have been plastic or plastic coated braided metal.

Park Tools have a good reputation and should work properly- but on the cable cutters- there is only one to have and that is Shimano. I have both and the Park tools cutter is the one I loan out to people that want to borrow the correct tool. It always comes back as they can't use it properly.

Ok, here is a peek until I get some good pictures. Any suggestions for a name?

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/3120/1011788xw2.jpg

What drop bar brake levers are you using that have enough pull for the V-brakes?

What drop bar brake levers are you using that have enough pull for the V-brakes?

I checked into that on the cyclocross forum. They are Tektra mini-V, (85 road, not 80) version that I got cheap on Ebay. They work with road levers. My road levers are Cane Creek SCR-5. They are very comfortable and have a little button that loosens the brakes for easier wheel removal. I've always found that V brakes are a nuisance to remove. The levers, and handlebar / adjustable stem combo were surplus when I installed TT bars on my Miyata.

http://aebike.com/images/library/catalogs/soc/p350X350m/BR5046.jpg

I checked into that on the cyclocross forum. They are Tektra mini-V, (85 road, not 80) version that I got cheap on Ebay. They work with road levers. My road levers are Cane Creek SCR-5. They are very comfortable and have a little button that loosens the brakes for easier wheel removal. I've always found that V brakes are a nuisance to remove. The levers, and handlebar / adjustable stem combo were surplus when I installed TT bars on my Miyata.

Cane Creek also has a version of those levers that work with normal v-brakes.

Nice looking bike. How about "Carruthers" (as in Scatman) ?

"Cat Scat Fever" :eek:


As the owner of a Scattante frame I get to say this with a straight face.

"Crosscat"

Ride Report

I commuted on Scat Cat today - about 17 miles. She's fast and nimble. There were many new things to experience at one time

compact crank
egg beater pedals
7 speed index
mini-V brakes
titanium rail skinny saddle
the cross frame


The first thing I noticed was the eggbeater pedals had a lot of float, it took a while to acclimate. I also used some spare Diadora Patrol MTB shoes because it's still cold out. The slightly softer soles make the feel different. The pedals clipped in easily and were very easy to clip out of.
The next thing I noticed is the saddle was further back and the handlebars were a bit higher. I think I'll adjust both forward slightly.
The third thing I noticed was the bike was a bit twitchy. That's a combination of 20 lb weight, thin cheap tires, and the different gearing. She did want to leap forward when I put down the hammer.
I have to buy a wider rim front wheel and get the 700x35 cyclocross tires installed. The wider lower pressure tires should make the ride much smoother. The bike will look better since the thin wheels look a bit odd now.
The shifters have to be adjusted and tightened down. The jumped between gears a couple times and once quite nastily on a steep but short uphill climb.
The brakes were very efficient and could easily lock up the back wheel. On the way home the front developed a very severe bump on one spot of the rim. I couldn't detect a bulging tire but something is awry.
With a favorable wind (or at least neutral) I found my commute home was at a very good clip - the Cat is spry! The saddle wasn't too uncomfortable but a 20+ mile ride will tell if I have to put the heavy but oh so comfortable Brooks B17 on.
I'll have to re-evaluate when I get the cross tires on. I'm considering buying a discount Ultegra front hub and having a LBS build to a Sun CR-18 rim.

You've truly created a customized ride for yourself. The wider tires should change the ride a great deal. Why not just go for the Brooks now? The Sun CR18s are 32 hole single eyelet rims, aren't they? They should be strong enough if you don't do any serious trail mashing over heavy terrain. Hope you get many happy miles out of Scat Cat.