Fifty Plus (50+) - OK, back to this Speedplay thing again

I just can't decide between the Zero and Light Action pedals

I do like the idea of adjustable float... I don't know if I need a full 15 degrees. Maybe I don't need any.
So the adjustibility almost sways me to the Zero

Except I heard that the Zero is harder to click in and click out of (hence the Light Action pedal)
What is "harder", exactly. I mean, how hard is hard.

I'm used to SPDs, which aren't tightened down very much -just enough- and they still take a pretty good "kick out" with the heel to get out of.

So is this a concern? What would I be more used to?

The key for Speedplays is to follow the writtn directions when mounting the cleats. If you tighten the screws that hold the cleats too tight, they can be stiff on the release. As with many cleats, the specific motion that best releases the cleat will vary slightly. However, I've never had any problem releasing my feet from the pedals with Speedplays.

I will give you the race weenie answer...Light Action is for wussy.:D

I ride SPD SL but many of my buddies ride Speedplays. Do not over analyze this. I think the light action is marketing designed to get reluctant recreational cyclists to try clipless. I would ask your LBS, who buys Light Action pedals or who is the target market?:)

I will give you the race weenie answer...Light Action is for wussy.:D

I ride SPD SL but many of my buddies ride Speedplays. Do not over analyze this. I think the light action is marketing designed to get reluctant recreational cyclists to try clipless. I would ask your LBS, who buys Light Action pedals or who is the target market?:)

+1

When I first went to clipless, Look style, many years ago, I wanted the release on the pedals set as light as possible. However, I quickly wished for the security of a tighter tension. Now I pretty much ride them as tight as they can go (Look Keos). I'm more wary of pulling out of a pedal on a sprint than not clipping out and falling over. Clipping out is second nature.

I've used zeroes for a year and a half. I think they are perfect. Hermes is completely correct.

I switched to X2 from eggbeaters. I went to the LBS to look at the Light Action and they talked me out of it. They are definitely intended for newbies curious about clipless. My LBS guy said that they steer newbies toward adjustable tension SPD type, so they really don't sell many Light Actions - unless they come in specifically looking for them.

Since I had been riding clipless for 3 years, the LBS guy talked me out of it. He said that my best choices would be the X series or the Zero's. I don't race but I put in 5000 to 7000 miles a year and I sometimes push hard.

I haven't found the X2 to be hard to enter and exit. In fact, I find them easier than the eggbeaters. As someone else said follow the installation instructions: get the 4 screws snug, then turn a quarter of a turn. Dip in blue locktite, to make sure they don't come loose. (They come pre-dipped for first time installation.)

I absolutely love the float! The non centering, free float sensation is liberating. The zero's are basically the same except that you can control the float. I didn't go with that because I didn't want to go anal about the adjustment - something I would definitely have done.

Hi all:
I am going thru the exact same things that you are all speaking about ... I originally have used the SPD clips for 5+ years and last year went to the Keo's. I really dont like the Keo and was looking to go to the Speedplay Zero or X/1. I do like the play and float of the Keo but have a hard time in getting clipped back into the cleat ... the angle at rest faces back at me and requires thought and careful movement to get in on the correct side of the pedal and I often end up trying to clip into the wrong side. That part makes me crazy when trying to take off from a stop light and I have "almost" fallen over multiple times. I am looking to go to the Speedplay as there is no Top or Bottom and can be clipped into either side. I think that I will go for the zero due to the adjustability and limiting of the float if I want it. Please note that I am also a Clydesdale ... 6'4" and 270 lb. My local bike shop owner just attended a conference where she learned to do the speedplay adjusments and says that it takes about an hour plus to get them set up properly. Looking forward to doing it very soon.
Michael

Hi all:
My local bike shop owner just attended a conference where she learned to do the speedplay adjusments and says that it takes about an hour plus to get them set up properly. Michael

An hour for the bikeshop to set up a pedal / cleat system? If this is true, I'd avoid Speedplays.

I understand what you are saying ... but I dream about a more efficient stroke and transfer of maximum power to the pedals and also to accomodate my bad knees for the most efficient riding positions ... maybe I am dreaming ... but hopeful that this will add to my efficiency, ride comfort, and power transfer?!

It takes an hour to set them up if they're charging you by the hour. It took me five minutes.

I do like the play and float of the Keo but have a hard time in getting clipped back into the cleat ... the angle at rest faces back at me and requires thought and careful movement to get in on the correct side of the pedal and I often end up trying to clip into the wrong side. That part makes me crazy when trying to take off from a stop light and I have "almost" fallen over multiple times. I am looking to go to the Speedplay as there is no Top or Bottom and can be clipped into either side.
Michael

This may be a case of overthinking. The click in motion on Look pedals is very simple and quickly becomes something you can do with no thought at all. The only way it can be difficult is if you are trying to do it the wrong way. Done the right way it is quick, simple and error free. The lack of a second side is not an issue.

Gravity holds the unladen pedal in the correct position for clipping in easily. The front loop will always point up. Simply slide your foot forward so the front of the cleat catches that loop and rotates the pedal to horizontal. Then add weight to the pedal and the rear will click right in.

I'm not arguing the Look vs. Speedplay point. Both are good pedals. But if you already have Looks, I would suggest just learning the right way to step into the pedal.

Thanks for the reply ... but I know how to do it properly and it works 7 to 8 times out of 10 but sometimes it just dosent as the angle of the resting position is not vertical by back by about 20 degrees off of vertical towards the rear ... if they would stay vertical then it would be easier for me. I guess that I am just a bit of a "****"?!? I have been using them for 8 months now and have gotten better of course but still not perfect.

I switched from SPD to X speedplays. Much easier on the legs. It doesn't take long to set up. Just takes time to read the directions. All you need to do is make sure the cleat platform doesn't flex, and they include a ton of shims to solve the problem for you. Then just screw in 7 screws/shoe. The only catch is to make sure you put a good glob of blue locktight on the 4 bottom screws, so they don't come off when riding. Speedplay support is great. If you do lose screws, they will
send you new ones.

As far as unclipping, there's just a tad more twist needed, because of that flow. But if you adjusted to SPD's from non clipless, you can easily make this adjustment. It may take about 3 times, and you've got it.

I don't know what the advantage would be to dial in float. With the speedplays, it just feels natural instead of being locked into a track position.

Thanks for the reply ... but I know how to do it properly and it works 7 to 8 times out of 10 but sometimes it just dosent as the angle of the resting position is not vertical by back by about 20 degrees off of vertical towards the rear ... if they would stay vertical then it would be easier for me. I guess that I am just a bit of a "****"?!? I have been using them for 8 months now and have gotten better of course but still not perfect.

Understood. I still think it will improve to 99 out of 100 over time , but do what you think you need to do. :)

Bebop's : lighter and cheaper than Speedplay's similar cleat system. Lot's of knee freindly float.

Whichever pedal and cleat system you get, get a Kool Cover for walking around. This is especially true for Speedplay where the mechanism is in the cleat.:) http://www.koolkovers.us/

+1 on Speedplays. Have used Zeros for 5yrs. , Frogs on my mountain bike as long. Efficient, EASY to learn (just practice), "no-look" clip in, pedal always in the right position to clip in. Agree with Hermes on the cleat cover, eliminate the chance you damage the cleat and / or slip.

I don't know about kool cover, I just went to LBS and got some X cleat covers. About the same price, so I'd rather support LBS

I have had the speed play Xs for about six weeks and really like them. they have helped my knees a lot. I really like the float. I bought from bike shop and they placed on the shoe in no time flat. I did have to make a slight lateral adjustment on one shoe to a different position because of some knee discomfort.

Getting out takes a bit of getting used to but it is more mental than physical, but in no time I feel comfortable with this.

The covers for the speedplays here are called "coffee cans", and they are great for walking on dirt roads and slide on and off nicely. No problem walking with the coffee cans on.

Billy

Ive been on speedplay pedals for more than 12 years, first pair was second hand, chrome plated spindles, solid alum. pedal pad, cleats were huge , they were great ! in compairson to everything else, made my knees very happy, and the newer ones just keep getting better !

Bebop's : lighter and cheaper than Speedplay's similar cleat system. Lot's of knee freindly float.

Similar but better cleat. MUCH more durable.

Update: OK, it was a real bear but I pulled off the M520s I had on the Giant and put my trusty ol' A520s on. I have ordered a pair of Speedplay Zeros. We'll see where this all ends up

A little more than "slight" but go for it

i took the intrusion out:eek: please continue on.

peace b.

i took the intrusion out:eek: please continue on.

peace b.

You didn't have to do that...

i took the intrusion out:eek: please continue on.

peace b.

This thread is not going right- It has stayed on topic righ the way through and we are not used to that. And this thread is about pedals- Shoes are closely related to that- and I was going to ask SKT

Will the speedplays work with the MTB 2 bolt shoes- or are they the road type 3 bolt cleat fixing?

Not that it worries me as I will be staying with my MTB shoe and A520 cleats.- but I am up for new shoes shortly- and that may mean pedals aswell. And if it is both- Might even go Look pedals and a "Road" type shoe.

Speedplays are 3 hole and 4 hole compatible but not SPD compatible.
My PI Vagabonds have both SPD and Look holes.
I am thinking about a new pair of Sidis though :)

Will the speedplays work with the MTB 2 bolt shoes- or are they the road type 3 bolt cleat fixing?




3bolt. get speedplay frogs and you can do mtn and road.

I just can't decide between the Zero and Light Action pedals

I do like the idea of adjustable float... I don't know if I need a full 15 degrees. Maybe I don't need any.
So the adjustibility almost sways me to the Zero

Except I heard that the Zero is harder to click in and click out of (hence the Light Action pedal)
What is "harder", exactly. I mean, how hard is hard.

I'm used to SPDs, which aren't tightened down very much -just enough- and they still take a pretty good "kick out" with the heel to get out of.

So is this a concern? What would I be more used to?

I've never tried the LA, but I've owned Zeros for two seasons and X2 and X5 for the previous few years. I've got a problem whereby I occasionally glance my heel off the chainstay and my ankle bone off a crank arm. For me, the Zeros are great because I can limit toe out to zero, correcting that problem, and leave about 6-10 degrees of toe-in (or ankle-out, ankle-in; whichever makes more sense). I have not found them harder to use than the X2s or X5s. All Speedplays are the bomb. Easiest to clip-in (they're hard to miss) and your feet instinctively come out should you crash.

I swear by 'em.

Steve

I just installed and rode the Z Speedplays yesterday. Please share cleat positioning tips & tricks.
The cleats move forward & aft (shoe attach point) as well as right to left (actual cleat).
Please help me understand what the fore to aft will do for me and what the left to right adjustment does.
I noticed that when moving aft, I started to experience a bit of foot cramping and some heat buildup. Is it a hit or miss setup or are there some experiences you Speedplay folks can share with me?
Thanks in advance.

I just installed and rode the Z Speedplays yesterday. Please share cleat positioning tips & tricks.
The cleats move forward & aft (shoe attach point) as well as right to left (actual cleat).
Please help me understand what the fore to aft will do for me and what the left to right adjustment does.
I noticed that when moving aft, I started to experience a bit of foot cramping and some heat buildup. Is it a hit or miss setup or are there some experiences you Speedplay folks can share with me?
Thanks in advance.

Hey, your learning. The for and aft for me also did cause some foot pain. the left and right must be set so that it does NOT result in knee pain. I had a lot of knee pain until I got it correct.

Read Dr. Raforth's material on lower extremity difficulties if you encounter them. http://www.cptips.com/toc.htm#table

He has advice there as to which way to go in setting the position on any cleat not just Speedplays.

Billy

Thanks BillyBob!