Bicycle Mechanics - Any good online directions for adjusting Deore LX rear derailleur?

The rear derailleur hits the spokes while on the big cog.

Also, is it possible to retrofit an old fashioned downtune friction shifter to work this derailleur. I don't like the new fangled combo brake-grifter-shifter or whatever they call it? I don't have a clue how to adjust it and I'm a prehistoric caveman sort of guy and all I know about are old bike parts. This bike frame has no fittings for downtube shifters, of course.

It's a new REI Novara Randonee touring bike that I got at the REI 20% off sale.

Look here:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

There were clamp-on downtube shifters in the past but, AFAIK, they were only made to fit "standard diameter" (i.e. 1-1/8") downtubes and your Randonee very likely has a larger diameter downtube so that isn't an option.

One way to get friction shifting is to fit bar-end shifters. They all provide friction-only front shifting and even the indexed rear shifters have a friction option.

As to the rear derailleur hitting the spokes, either 1) the low limit screw has to be readjusted or 2)the derailleur hanger is mis-aligned or 3) the wheel dish is incorrect.

The rear derailleur hits the spokes while on the big cog.

May want to check if the rear derailleur hanger is bent. Look at the bike from behind, the RD cage should be perfectly vertical (i.e., parallel to the frame).

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=39

=HillRider;6465487]There were clamp-on downtube shifters in the past but, AFAIK, they were only made to fit "standard diameter" (i.e. 1-1/8") downtubes and your Randonee very likely has a larger diameter downtube so that isn't an option.

--- Yeah, larger diameter, and that's what I was afraid of.

One way to get friction shifting is to fit bar-end shifters. They all provide friction-only front shifting and even the indexed rear shifters have a friction option.


--- I think I like the idea of bar end shifters even worse than these brake-shifter-index things - even longer more convoluted cables. I like the simplicity and short cables on the down tubes, plus I'm used to them.

As to the rear derailleur hitting the spokes, either 1) the low limit screw has to be readjusted or 2)the derailleur hanger is mis-aligned or 3) the wheel dish is incorrect.[/quote]


--- I've messed with all the screws, and I think the derailleur was working good before I started messing with it, and the bike's never even been used, so that should leave the last two out. Thing is I bought the bike sans some parts, like the handlebar - and then I stoopidly removed the rear derailleur and then put it back on. I must have somehow put it back on wrong.

May want to check if the rear derailleur hanger is bent. Look at the bike from behind, the RD cage should be perfectly vertical (i.e., parallel to the frame).

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=39


Screw the A, B, and C screws! I did some good old Cro Magnon technology and grabbed the freakin overly long derailleur and bent it out and now I've got it working on all except the biggest cog. Maybe I'll give it some more of that medicine and see what happens...I'll probably bust it.

When I get this thing fixed, I think I'll either sell it and buy a nice old used bike that even a cave man like me can comprehend, or perhaps I'll convert it into a internal hub gear (vertical dropouts, though), or put on small racing derailleurs on it. I don't really need the low gears, anyway.

Not one of my better buying decisions, I think.

Screw the A, B, and C screws! I did some good old Cro Magnon technology and grabbed the freakin overly long derailleur and bent it out and now I've got it working on all except the biggest cog. Maybe I'll give it some more of that medicine and see what happens...I'll probably bust it.

When I get this thing fixed, I think I'll either sell it and buy a nice old used bike that even a cave man like me can comprehend, or perhaps I'll convert it into a internal hub gear (vertical dropouts, though), or put on small racing derailleurs on it. I don't really need the low gears, anyway.

Not one of my better buying decisions, I think.

If the RD hanger is NOT bent, it's time start over with the adjustment. Undo the cable, loosen both limit screws, and follow the Park instructions.

Start by setting the H-limit screw, then install the cable and set the tension (to set the indexing with the rest of the gears), then set the L-limit screw to keep the RD from overshifting into the spokes.

Thanks, JT. How do they say - as an absolute last resort, read the instructions!

Screw the A, B, and C screws! I did some good old Cro Magnon technology.....

Not one of my better buying decisions, I think.

You will notice the Cro Magnons are no longer here. Apparently their technology had it's limitations. :)

I think we can agree that the Randonee was not a well thought out buying decision for you. It is a relatively modern bike with all of the good and bad that implies. If you want 1970's technology you will have to obtain a 1970's era bike.

BTW, bar-end shifters aren't complicated and their use WAY predates brifters. The cable runs are certainly longer than downtube shifters but their shifting performance is very good none the less.

At least I'm not jumping up and down on it or hitting it with a big rock like a stupid Neanderthal would do!

I'm going to return it to REI and take them up on their famous return policy, and then look around for a good old fashioned bike.

I'm wondering whether the OP re-installed the derailleur on top of the hanger's (derailleur) stop/B-tension stop?

--- I think I like the idea of bar end shifters even worse than these brake-shifter-index things - even longer more convoluted cables. I like the simplicity and short cables on the down tubes, plus I'm used to them.

+1 on the barend shifters. They're easier to reach and shift just as well as downtube models, if installed correctly with good-quality cables and modern-day lined cable housings. On my 1984 Fuji, I ran mine under the tape along the bar (requiring a tandem-length cable to the rear derailleur), and have no shifting issues whatsoever.

I'm wondering whether the OP re-installed the derailleur on top of the hanger's (derailleur) stop/B-tension stop?


I think I probably reinstalled it wrong, somehow. I only install rear derailleurs every 20 years or so...But if I did what you said, would it be working fine in all the cogs except the largest cog, and maybe the 2nd largest, too - because it does?

+1 on the barend shifters. They're easier to reach and shift just as well as downtube models, if installed correctly with good-quality cables and modern-day lined cable housings. On my 1984 Fuji, I ran mine under the tape along the bar (requiring a tandem-length cable to the rear derailleur), and have no shifting issues whatsoever.


Are bar end shifters still being sold? Would they work with this derailleur?

^Yes! can you Google