Road Bike Racing - VW Position Thread #1

PCad has 27, so I figured one from me would work. Still experimenting with this position and will look to validate what it currently is (based on ability to sustain power) on Tuesday's 2x20's.

http://www.cycleanywhere.com/blog/files/tom_thumb_PICT0025.JPG (http://www.cycleanywhere.com/blog/files/tom_PICT0025.JPG)

http://www.cycleanywhere.com/blog/files/tom_thumb_PICT0028.JPG (http://www.cycleanywhere.com/blog/files/tom_PICT0028.JPG)


First "real" TT coming in a week and a half, so will look to do "decent" there, but nothing earth shatteringly WJO style.

rasmussen!

You're too fat for this sport Nomad.

You could get a bit more aero by lowering the bars slightly, but not on that bike, which appears to be a regular road bike with clip ons. Regardless, I'm discovering it's far more crucial to find a position that allows you to stay aero while you're hammering. I think that's about as good as you're going to get without a TT specific bicycle. If you're going to do a lot of TTs, you might consider one, there's a lot of them on eBay for a song. I bought my $4K+ Cannondale on eBay for $2200, it was < 1 year old.

The TT bike would let you get lower, somewhat more aero. But you have 90% of the aero thing covered with that position. Get a TT helmet (everybody keeps telling me how crucial that is) and you're all set.

I'd get rid of that cone spacer under your stem, lower it all the way, move the saddle a bit more forward and up, and get out on the rivet.

Your extensions look about right, once you move your rump forward a bit on the saddle.

Best I'll be able to do lowering the front end is a lower stem angle. I have a 120mm Spec stem that will let me get -16° (vs the ritchey -6°) - that change will put me another 2cm lower on the front. I might toss that on and switch back to the ritchey stem if it's simply too low. Flexibility I'm sure may be an issue.

Re: Rasmussen - uh... not quite. I'm a good 5-7 lbs heavier than I should have been by this point. *mumble*

Oh yeah, +1 on moving the saddle forward. That takes a while to figure out. When you move the saddle forward it actually helps you stay aero, you can actually raise the seat higher, and combined with removing that stem spacer that should get you lower in front. Worked for me in that lastest TT bike position change. The real key is finding something you're comfortable with, that was tough for me, it may be easier for you.

But for God's sake Nomad, lay off the friggin Twinkies.

I'd get rid of that cone spacer under your stem, lower it all the way, move the saddle a bit more forward and up, and get out on the rivet.

Your extensions look about right, once you move your rump forward a bit on the saddle.

Hmm.. I didn't think about changing out the headset cone. How easy/hard is that going to be? Never messed with that before. have to break out the Zinn's tonight.

Half the BF experts will have you moving fore on the saddle, and the other half will tell you aft. No one who can credibly fit someone to a bicycle would do so via still photos over the internet. Do yourself a favor and get someone who knows what they're doing to fit you, in person, while you're pedaling and can communicate when your nethers have too much pressure or when you're lower back hurts, etc. Local options are Matt or Travis at All American in Damascus, MD (www.aabikes.com) or Susan at http://hpcoaching.com/ who works out of Spokes in Vienna, VA.

Hmm.. I didn't think about changing out the headset cone. How easy/hard is that going to be? Never messed with that before. have to break out the Zinn's tonight.

Well, I don't have one of those "modern" 1-1/8" headsets that all the kids have these days, but I you can get a nearly flat ring spacer that will handle the radius decrease from the headset to your steerer tube. You'll have to add some spacers on top to accommodate the rest of the steerer.

It's a really easy job though. 10 minutes your first time, <5 minutes after that. Just make sure you get that washer and any additional spacers you'll need.

This page covers it well (skip all the installation stuff, and go waaaaaaay down to "Adjustment"): http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65


Half the BF experts will have you moving fore on the saddle, and the other half will tell you aft.

My recommendation is based on lowering the stem. If you lower the stem, assuming he's moderately comfortable in the current position, he'll want to maintain the same hip angle, so the saddle will have to come forward.

Regarding moving forward on the saddle, that's more of just being "honest" with your position. Chances are that you'll end up out there after a couple minutes of drilling it. If you don't assess your position from there, then you're not assessing your real TT position.

MDCatV is right, but I think we all know the limitations of over-the-web fit. There can still be some good insight.

Get an adjustable stem. I have a Ritchey like this:

https://images3.bikebuster.dk/imageuploads/220103/product_A8E2F755-FB97-F008-95859BF5D0DA5A90.jpg

Should run you about 40 bucks, and get you several inches lower than you are right now. If your core is strong and you don't have neck/back issues there is no reason I'm aware of that you shouldn't strive for a flat(er) back.

buy a shirt

WR - Ahh.. what you're looking at isn't a spacer. It's the top end of the headset itself, right? (Stock FSA Aheadset) All of the spacers are on top of the stem already.

Like PCad this will be an adventure in maintaining available power in the aero position. Hopefully Tuesday's ride at Haines Point will be relatively traffic free and get me a good idea of where I'm at.

WR - Ahh.. what you're looking at isn't a spacer. It's the top end of the headset itself, right? (Stock FSA Aheadset) All of the spacers are on top of the stem already.

You may be right... it's an integrated headset, and I haven't messed with the top of one of those yet. That's a really tall stack height though.

Even their current tallest one looks shorter than that:
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/images/prod_thu_6099.jpg

FSA lists "8mm or 15mm" top cap heights, so it might be replaceable.

Lower saddle.
Hit the beach.

I'd second the pro fit. A couple of things that I learned on my fit that may be obvious, but getting lower is generally better. However, you still want to make sure you have a good hip angle. If your guads are hitting your rib cage then you are probably too low in the front. Also if your knees are hitting your elbows that is not too good. One thing that did surprise me on my fit was that my fitter was shooting for a more compact profile. In other words I had always assumed that you wanted to be stretched out as far as possible to make you lower. But my fitter shortened the stem on my bike from a 130 all the way down to an 80 and the mid part of my forearms are on the pad rather the lower part toward the elbows. My knees come up really close to my elbows but do not hit them. I'm sure different fitters have different ways of doing this and outside of a wind tunnel it is all pretty much speculation.

Exactly. there is a difference between fitting for comfort and fitting for aero. In most cases it is going to result in a faster TT to lose some watts but gain a more aggressive position and lower cda.

From the side, your face & body look like Rasmussen. From the front, however, your face looks like Armstrong. Anyway....

personally I would lower you saddle and bars.

i would lower bars, push saddle forward and thats about it. except maybe to tilt the aerobars down a bit, but thats just personal preference, and kinda a triathlete thing to have the extensions flat

Do you pedal without rocking your hips?

I'd echo one suggestion above to twist the aerobars a bit so they point down a bit more, and if it's possible, can you move them in any more?