DDYTDY

I'm thinking of changing a rear non disc XTR hub to 130mm spacing by removing 5mm from the non drive side and redishing the wheel.

Its on a Trek 750 laced with a sun M19A rim and a cyclocross tubular. I just got an aluminum Cross frame with 130mm spacing and I want to use the XTR wheel.

Any thoughts on this?

Retro Grouch 

You might also have to shorten the axle. If it sticks out past the dropout the QR won't be able to grab.

BCRider

You WILL have to shorten the axle. No doubt about it. But other than removing the 5 mm spacer and cutting down the axle length and redishing as you mentioned I don't see any issues. Especially if it's the older small spooly style before the fatter MTB stuff came out.

Keep in mind that the spacers on the drive side stay the same since they need to be there to correctly space the freehub and cassette out from the drive side dropout. Road or MTB, there's a minimum clearance there already. So all the adjustment must be on the non drive side.

DDYTDY

Thanks guys, I had not thought of the axle.

Cheers!
ray

BCRider

Oh, and the axle is hardened so to cut it you'll need to use a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder or use a Dremel and a few cutoff wheels and lots of patience as it worries its way through the metal. But it will do the job wiht a little time.

You could try a hacksaw but I think you'll find that it takes the edge off the teeth pronto.

Or just grind it down on a bench grinder all the way. If you do it this way dip in water often to avoid it getting too hot and loosing the temper. Hold it fairly close to the end being ground and when it gets hot in your fingers dip it. And even then the last couple of mm's should be done with less pressure and more frequent dippings for cooling.

DDYTDY

I was thinking a cut off on my lathe would do the trick. Carbide would probably cut it but if its hardened it may slip in the chuck or collet and mess up the threads.

I've got cutoff wheels for a surface grinder as well. Maybe I 'll go that route to avoid damaging the threads.

Thanks again, I was not aware the axles were hardened.

Retro Grouch 

Or just spend about $5.00 for a shorter axle.

BCRider

SPOILSPORT! ! ! !

DDYTDY, if you have that sort of gear available then knowing that it's heat treated should be enough. You're on your own. I don't know if I'd call them hardened as much as heat treated. From the ones I've cut down I found them to be noticably harder than a grade 8 bolt but certainly not as hard as good tool steel. The one I cut down I did with a carbide tipped tool. I didn't have a parting tool in carbide so I just machined it away in small cuts to avoid it catching and screwing up (literally in this case ) the jaws in the chuck.

But as much as it takes away the fun of the shop time RG does have a point about just buying or swapping your long axle for a short one at the LBS.

-=8=-

oh yeah, just swap that $20 XTR axle for a cheapo, junky $5 axle. that sounds smart.

edogawa

Dura Ace axles for FH-7700 are only 400 yen, and I wouldn't call those junkie. Don't know what $5 will get you in a bike shop over there though.

DDYTDY

It would take longer to walk to the back of the bike shop and wait for help then to walk over to the lathe, chuck up the axle and cut 0.1968" (5mm) off. Or, I could clamp it in a V-block and use a cut off wheel on the surface grinder.

The bike shop would work if I had no way to cut it.


Besides any excuse to use my Monarch 10EE (gloat) is a good thing.