Classic & Vintage - Lugged Steel Trek

I just bought a lugged steel Trek road bike to refurbish (paint and a real group - you know, from Campy or Suntour) and would like to identify the model, tubeset, etc.

The bike has the rear derailleur cable fed into the bottom of the chainstay and then out the end of same at the dropout connection point. That, the fully lugged frameset are the identifying features.

Does anyone know about Trek serial numbers for their lugged framesets? Any way to tell if this is a 1020, 770, 720, etc.

Thanks for any help.

Best bet to find the information you seek is at:
http://vintage-trek.com/

Thanks. That is a great help.

Post a pic... I just bought a 1985 Trek 520... very sweet bike. The frame is fantastic... very smooth ride.

Here is a pic of my Trek. I will be refinishing in a bright, cherry red with black Trek decals which are correct for the period (if I can find). It was repainted black by its previous owner and has so much paint on it that I can't read the serial number. Currently with a Shimano 600, 7-speed group with bar-end shifters. That will all go to some worthy retro project for someone else. As a Campy person I will be putting on an 8-speed Athena group. Will be a great project, but it may have to wait until I am finished with my Serotta project, so may not make it until next year.

Can someone tell me how to post the picture directly without posting the link to a file? Thanks.

what do you plan to do with the leftover 600 group? I need parts, especially bar end shifters....

As it is a complete group, and in decent condition (could use a good cleaning and lube - if it were me I would also replace the jockey wheels - and as I haven't gotten either the headset or BB out, I cannot vouch for them yet) I had planned to sell as a complete group, including the wheelset. If that is of interest send me a PM and lets discuss.

I just bought a 1985 Trek 520... very sweet bike. The frame is fantastic... very smooth ride.

I just bought one too! I'm now looking to replace the faded red brake cable. Anyone know where I can get red cable? I hate the standard black. Thanks.

Well here's a picture of my '86 520 Cirrus.

Anyone know where I can get red cable? I hate the standard black. Thanks.

http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cgi?c=Cable/Casing&sc=Brake%20Casing&id=526904911938

I love my Trek460. Picked it up for 35.00 in excellent+ condition. Replaced tires, handlebar tape and frame pump. Weighs in at 21 but feels much lighter. Very good riding bike. This one is an '85 with SunTour Cyclone group......and yeah, just love that cable thru the chainstay!




Olds

Here is a pic of my Trek. I will be refinishing in a bright, cherry red with black Trek decals which are correct for the period (if I can find). It was repainted black by its previous owner and has so much paint on it that I can't read the serial number. Currently with a Shimano 600, 7-speed group with bar-end shifters. That will all go to some worthy retro project for someone else. As a Campy person I will be putting on an 8-speed Athena group. Will be a great project, but it may have to wait until I am finished with my Serotta project, so may not make it until next year.

Can someone tell me how to post the picture directly without posting the link to a file? Thanks.

MAN those are low-profile tires!

I love my Trek460. Picked it up for 35.00 in excellent+ condition. Replaced tires, handlebar tape and frame pump. Weighs in at 21 but feels much lighter. Very good riding bike. This one is an '85 with SunTour Cyclone group......and yeah, just love that cable thru the chainstay!
Olds

Here's another '85 Trek 460 on Craigslist here in the San Jose/Santa Cruz Area. It is a 52cm frame and the serial # is 178387. Here's the link.

http://www.craigslist.org/sby/bik/71376445.html

Hi, ahhh lugged steel.
I bought a lugged steel trek mtn bike, 950, at the Goodwill for $15. It needed a seat and seat post, and the front shock (i don't think it was original) had too short of a steerer tube. and the top tube was a tad bent upward, like someone had left the bike on the car rack and pulled into the garage, bent the fork and replaced it with the shock. So I painted where the tube is bent (because the paint chipped) ground down the non-bearing side of the headset cones with my antique hand crank grinding wheel, untill they fit onto the threads. this took me about 3 hours. Then I bought a cheap used seatpost and seat. Total setback in $ was about $30. I was going to give it to a friend, but he never came to get it, and I like the way it rides so much I'm thinking about not getting rid of it at all. Love the lugged steel, soooo smooooove.

Dang. I thought I was the only Trek lover left in the whole world. I have several from the '70's and early '80's (and an OCLV that is becoming a period piece itself). The oldest is a Trek TX900 from 1977, and the coolest is a Trek 170 from 1984. They are all really good riders and didn't deserve the scorn that was heaped on 'em in the '80s. The 7-11 team rode 'em for a while (painted up) - I worked over the serial numbers for the Trek site and there were references in the build log to the team bikes...both Mike Appel (ARC) and Tim Isaac (Paramount and Match) were early builders for Trek.

Unfortunately the lugs were the same on every model of Trek for this (85-86, probably)year's bike - the chainstays look to be too short for the 20s and 40s so I'd guess at minimum this is a 560. Could be a 660 or a 760, depends on the original parts mix (and they look to be long gone). The wheels are very likely the originals, are they sewup rims? Hubs 600? Is that a super record seatpost? Who made the stem?

Count me in on the Trek lover club.
I have an 83/4 (built 83 decals are 84) 770
and an 85 670.
I'd kill for a 170, there weren't many of them made.
On Classic Rendezvous list one of the builders posts,
he worked on the 170s so he could probably get you more info.
What is the serial number of the 85/86 model? we can probably
figure out what it is from that.

Thanks, lotek, for bringing my attention to the resurrection of this thread. I haven't done anything yet (overwhelmed with middling BS - aren't we all), but hot to get it done this fall. I bought a 2300 for my daughter and will get them both refurb'd in the cherry red.

And there certainly isn't anything wrong with older Treks. Am always surprised how few I see on the road. Lots of Paramounts (like mine), but only see an occasional 2300 and no 770, 660, etc. Think I've seen one lugged Trek in the last five years. But that will all change next year when I get mine back on the road. :lol:

I bought a lugged steel trek mtn bike, 950, at the Goodwill for $15. It needed a seat and seat post, and the front shock (i don't think it was original) had too short of a steerer tube.

i don't think any of the lugged 9xx series bikes had suspension forks when new... i've got a 930 i bought new in 1990, and it came with a fixed fork. by '94, they weren't making lugged frames anymore.

i think you had to buy at least an 8xxx series bike to get a suspension fork back then... i remember when LeMond used a suspension fork at Paris-Roubaix... it was so new then! now everything has suspension, even Wal-Mart bikes (sort of, anyway).

http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cgi?c=Cable/Casing&sc=Brake%20Casing&id=526904911938

Or lickbike.com which is much cheaper for long lengths, or harris cyclery by the foot.

i am working on a 1980 trek 414. I am not staying origional though. I love the bike, it rides great. Here is a few pics of it right after I painted it and put new decals... I wanted to get original decals but since I plan on sand blasting the frame this fall, and doing a nicer paint job, I will wait until then. Also the cheap wal-mart pump (which weighs about 90lbs) has been replaced :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v614/russkrs/P1010020.jpg

I have a line on a 1986 trek 500. Thanks to halfspeed, I checked out vintage-trek.com and looked at the '86 catalog. This bike was labeled as a Tri bike, but they didn't have the dimensions of the frame on the website. Does anyone know if they were messing around w/ triathlon geometries back then? because I want this bike, but I only want it if it's comfortable, and from what i've heard, tri bikes (at least modern ones) are not built to be comfortable.

Hey lotek, how's it goin'?

Nevermind. the geometry was shown under the sport bikes, meaning it's a little more relaxed than the other racing bikes. sweet! i'm checking this baby out tonight!

i am working on a 1980 trek 414. I am not staying origional though. I love the bike, it rides great. Here is a few pics of it right after I painted it and put new decals... I wanted to get original decals but since I plan on sand blasting the frame this fall, and doing a nicer paint job, I will wait until then. Also the cheap wal-mart pump (which weighs about 90lbs) has been replaced :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v614/russkrs/P1010020.jpg

Love everything except the profile design sticker. It's not traditional, but a great look nonetheless. Very unique.

Love everything except the profile design sticker. It's not traditional, but a great look nonetheless. Very unique.


thanks!

Yeah I put the stickers on and realized that it made me look like a noob... since I am a noob, I guess that is ok. I do plan on completely stripping the paint down to the metal and painting it properly this fall, so at that point I plan on getting the vintage decals. I plan on keeping the black / silver paint scheme. I really think it looks cool, and unique.

I have a line on a 1986 trek 500. Thanks to halfspeed, I checked out vintage-trek.com and looked at the '86 catalog. This bike was labeled as a Tri bike, but they didn't have the dimensions of the frame on the website. Does anyone know if they were messing around w/ triathlon geometries back then? because I want this bike, but I only want it if it's comfortable, and from what i've heard, tri bikes (at least modern ones) are not built to be comfortable.


I have the 700. The geometry on these two bikes is NOTHING like a modern tri bike. THey are really like a "sport-touring" bike. Long chainstays, fender braze-ons, lots of tire clearance. They make excellent commuters/club riders. I've "restified" mine with 9-speed Veloce and it's a dream.

I hope I'm right but look at page 19 of the 1986 Trek Brochure. They included them with the sport bikes I think.

I love my Trek460. Picked it up for 35.00 in excellent+ condition. Replaced tires, handlebar tape and frame pump. Weighs in at 21 but feels much lighter. Very good riding bike. This one is an '85 with SunTour Cyclone group......and yeah, just love that cable thru the chainstay!
Olds


I've replaced a few items myself with NOS parts I found on EBAY. Would like to know if I can re-pack the pedals? One seems to be ok, but one definitely needs grease. I found a NOS pair for $20 and was thinking about buying them. Any advice would be great.

$20 for the pedals? sounds just right.
I've seen Superbe pedals used, beat to hell and back
go for that much (I know I bought em for a beater).
I believe that you can repack the pedals that you have
find an good old book (half priced books!) on bike maintenance
and go for it.

Marty

Count me in on the Trek lover club.
I have an 83/4 (built 83 decals are 84) 770
and an 85 670.
I'd kill for a 170, there weren't many of them made.
On Classic Rendezvous list one of the builders posts,
he worked on the 170s so he could probably get you more info.
What is the serial number of the 85/86 model? we can probably
figure out what it is from that.

Here's another Trek I'm considering buying. No details about components but if someone can tell me by the picture, let me know. Thanks.

"Steel is Real"

I'm sorry my failling eyes can't quite make em out.
details might help :D

do you have the serial number? If so I can tell you exactly
what it is (unless it's a mistake on the serial number list, I've found
a few already).
Offhand it looks like an 83 520 or 620 to me. If its reynolds 501 it's
the 520, the 620 was 531c tubing.
The decals as shown were only used 81 thru 83 so that narrows
it down quite a bit.
Both models were excellent tourers, very nice find.

marty
?

marty

I've replaced a few items myself with NOS parts I found on EBAY.

Well had to replace by bottom bracket today. A couple of days ago I felt some grinding while pedaling on Bike to Work day. Took apart the bottom bracket and found a lot of pitting on the spindle and a little pitting on the cone. The bearings didn't have much grease left on them. So I ended up putting on a new cartridge bottom bracket. I really didn't want to get away from original parts for the bottom bracket but didn't have spare cup, spindle, cone. Where can I get NOS on these items? Any suggestions? By the way after I changed to cartridge, it's very quiet.

I have a line on a 1986 trek 500. Thanks to halfspeed, I checked out vintage-trek.com and looked at the '86 catalog. This bike was labeled as a Tri bike, but they didn't have the dimensions of the frame on the website. Does anyone know if they were messing around w/ triathlon geometries back then? because I want this bike, but I only want it if it's comfortable, and from what i've heard, tri bikes (at least modern ones) are not built to be comfortable.

Hey lotek, how's it goin'?

This is the same exact bike I've got - did u wind up buying it? I love the ride of mine - very smooth but a nice bite when you lay into it.

I rode a low end Miyata sports ten speed (1981 110 model, straight gauge Miyata cromo) with a longish wheelbase and chainstays and VERY relaxed angles for several years and it had a lovely buttery smooth ride. I was looking for a replacement when I found the Trek in very good condition.

The Trek is very similar ride quality with a lot better snap. Not a modern 'on the rivet' tri bike at all. The top tube seems to slope VERY slightly. I initially considered throwing a set of aero bars I owned on it being it was a 'Tri' but once I rode it that idea went out the window.

It is just a nice all around riding bike. I just did a half metric century on it and even with a pinched nerve in my neck i felt pretty good afterwards. descends nicely, very stable. Nice for standing climbs but a bit heavy on longer seated climbs - thankfully that ride was pretty flat! :o Mine weighs right around the brochure claimed 23-24 lbs.

I was vacillating about keeping and upgrading and I decided to keep it as sane as possible but it really is a nice riding bike, so even with 1" threaded headset and old style BB I like it.

It looks similar to my 710 (built up with the Trek selected gruppo as a 715), which was either an '82 or '83. How are the derailleur cables routed. Mine has brazed on guides on the top of the bottom bracket shell on either side of where the seat tube is lugged in. Other bikes I've seen have the cables running in guides under the bottom bracket shell.

The 710 was originally offered with the buyer's choice of Ishiwata or Reynolds 531 tubing for the frame and fork. Mine is Reynolds and has decals on the seat tube and both sides of the fork. I agree with all the other Trek fans that these bikes had a great combination of ride and handling - true sport touring bikes.

By the way, I'm restoring my 710, and so far, it has a drop-dead gorgeous paint job by Ronnie Lindsey of Airglow Painting in Georgia. My bike had the same thick, maroon decal as yours (blue was also an option), and Ronnie suggested that instead of using a decal, which would look lumpy under the clear coat, he would paint it, then apply the thin TREK vertical lettering decal over the painted panel. It looks great. I'm not picky about being original, and since I had a lot of rust spots around the top tube cable guides, I had Tamara Ashford of Wild Frame in Atlanta remove them, and braze on modern cable-stop/guides at about the 7 o'clock position of the top tube. This looks nice, and minimize the opportunities for rust to develop. It may also improve braking response, since there is no cable housing to compress between the guides, and the bend to the rear brake will be smoother and more direct. She also added a second bottle cage boss on the seat tube and a chain hanger on the right seat stay. The frame has the original Campagnolo dropouts front and rear with braze ons for fenders. There are barrel shaped braze ons on the seat stays for a rack (I use a black Blackburn of the same vintage as the bike.)I'm installing bar cons on the original 40 cm handlebars, but may try a Nitto "Noodle" from Rivendell. In stripping down the bike before sending it off for the frame work and painting, I discovered that the left arm of the original SR crank had a hairline crack in it when I removed it, and since I was thinking of trying a triple, I bought a very clean Sugino GT on eBay. The original wheels had 36 hole, low flange Campy Record or New Record (can't remember which) hubs and Rigida rims. Despite the cheap rims, I think I only had to have the wheels trued twice in more than 18 years of riding. I had thinking about restoring the bike for a couple of years, until during a ride, a pretty hefty woman rode up next to me and stopped, wavered and fell over onto the front wheel. She had just gotten clip-on shoes/pedals, and couldn't get them to release when she stopped. One crushed wheel was all it took to convince me that time was right for the restoration. A friend sold me a pair of nearly new wheels with SunTour sealed bearing hubs and Mavic rims that her boyfriend had built for her -- $50. The brakes are Dia Compe Gran Compe, but use Shimano pads. I like the way the Dia Compes work and look, but one quick release finger tab was bent the only time I left the bike at a shop for service. So while the bike is not original, it should be a good ride, and with its new paint, I looks great.

Good luck with your project. These fine old bikes deserve to be cared for.
EB

I just picked up a partial Trek 660: No wheels or pedals and the Shimano 600 RD was in pretty bad shape. Some nicks and some superficial rust in spots, so this bike was obviously well-ridden but never crashed. The frame is straight, true, and surprisingly light. Cool lugs and the BB shell is grooved for the derailleur cables (way cool!)

I bought it with the idea that I would go fixed-gear, but after looking at the Vintage Trek website, now I'm torn and wonder if I should restore it to its original glory....

I'll snap a picture tonight.

Count me in on the Trek lover club.
I have an 83/4 (built 83 decals are 84) 770
and an 85 670.
I'd kill for a 170, there weren't many of them made.
On Classic Rendezvous list one of the builders posts,
he worked on the 170s so he could probably get you more info.
What is the serial number of the 85/86 model? we can probably
figure out what it is from that.

The early 80's Treks are great. Fresh out of college in Spring '84, as an undergrad w/ no job offer, I spent the summer working at the local bike shop. They sold Treks and it was a great line of bikes - made in USA, good components and a great value. They were fun to assemble, rode quite well and literally "sold themselves." I sold a black 560(?) road bike to my friend and he still enjoys it. (Which was the short road frame, 520 or 560? I am getting old... the other was a touring frame.) As I recall, the 770 was the top-o-the-line road bike - verrrry nice!

I sold a black 560(?) road bike to my friend and he still enjoys it. (Which was the short road frame, 520 or 560? I am getting old... the other was a touring frame.) As I recall, the 770 was the top-o-the-line road bike - verrrry nice!

In the early 80's the 520 and 500 were the same frame with different components: the 500 was the "sport" model while the 520 was sold with a "touring" setup. I believe the 560 was more of the road or "racing" variety. You can see this distinction in the catalogs on the vintage trek site.

I bought a TX500 frame in 1978, it was built in 77, and have been riding it ever since. I outfitted it with a few parts off my old Gitane, plus new stuff - it evolved until 1983, and has not changed much since. This was the predecessor to the other 500 series frames. It's built with Ishiwata 022 tubes and came standard with a Dura Ace headset (now deceased). The only braze-ons are fender eyelets front and back, and rear derailleur cable stop. I used it as a general purpose bike, and toured quite a bit in WI and MI. One of the seat stays broke off the seat lug in 81. Trek repaired and repainted it, put the "newer" decals on it.

I just bought 1983 vintage 500 series frame, outfitted with mostly campy record equipment. My older frame has 120 mm rear dropouts, but the '83 is spaced for a 6-speed hub setup. The 1983 also used Reynolds 501 tubing. The only bad thing about the new bike: rear hub threaded french!! ARRGGH!

The Trek is a great bike, and rides as well as many "famous maker" frames.

Not the greatest photo, but here's a quick snap of the 660. I put a on set of wheels, saddle, and crankset to give an idea what it would look like on the road. The 19inch frame is a bit short for me, but with the long stem and two fists of seat posts it actually fits me as well as my modern Trek 5200 54cm frame.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y18/CalOso/trek660wheels.jpg

I don't know why, but I find 80's lugged Treks to be some of the best looking bikes from that era. Alright, maybe my '87 330 Elance has something to do with it, but still...

Not the greatest photo, but here's a quick snap of the 660. I put a on set of wheels, saddle, and crankset to give an idea what it would look like on the road. The 19inch frame is a bit short for me, but with the long stem and two fists of seat posts it actually fits me as well as my modern Trek 5200 54cm frame.

Looks like it might give you the "chainless" ride feeling that Lance sometimes refers to. :D

Looks like it might give you the "chainless" ride feeling that Lance sometimes refers to. :D

That's exactly what I was thinking about as I coasted down my driveway!

An update. Here is the Trek 660, fixed at 42/16.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y18/CalOso/Trek660fixed.jpg

I needed to buy a few things to get this classic on the road: a solid new but nothing special rear wheel (Suzue hub, Sun rim, Surly 16 cog, Dura Ace lockring), Tektra replacement hoods for the Shimano 600 aero brake levers, a generic seat post, and a new Shimano Sora front brake. Everything else is from the spare parts box: mismatched Profile bar tape, Shimano RSX crankset (used the 42-tooth middle ring), no-name spd road pedals, old Specialized Body Geometry saddle, RSX/CPX21 front wheel, Michelin Carbon tires. The 19in frame is a bit too short for me, but with a bit of seatpost showing and a longish stem, it fits as well as my modern Trek OCLV frame.

The only thing remaining that's Vintage or Classic is the SR 120mm stem and 40cm handlebars. And the Trek frame of course.

I realize that this really doesn't belong on this forum, as it is devoted to the restoration of classic bikes, but I thought this is a good example of bringing a fine lugged steel frame back on the road.

Another Trek fan weighing in.

Here's the newest addition. It's currently hanging in the barn with the Frame Saver drying in it. Hopefully, the build up can start this weekend. It's a '79 510 with Ishawata 022.
http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/DirtbagPinner/510-frame-front-quarter.jpg

For those interested in the Trek Sport Touring type bikes, I put a bunch of the frame geometries into a spread sheet so I could see them all side by each. It can be downloaded here:
my personal bike page (http://home.comcast.net/~pinnah/DirtbagPinner/bikes.html)

I'm guessing that Frame Saver is a spray that prevent's rust in Steel Bikes?

framesaver sprays into the tubes to prevent rust from infiltration and/or humidity. It works well; linseed oil used to be used before the petrochemical/aerospace/military-industrial age. It works well too. Let it dry before going into the wet.

Hi,

I ride a 78 TX500 22.5 light metallic green Trek w. Suntour components, Barcons, nitto moustache bars hi rise nitto technomic stem and a set of sks 45 silverfenders. This is my nice day commuter bike and it is an incredible ride. I was helped along in the purchase of it by a BF member (ridesoldtrek, I think.) Anyway I now have a problem. I have subsequently acquried two more Treks (1978 TX300 21" & 1982 22" 613) with the hope that my wife would ride one of them, but she is content with her cruiser. The 78" is mettalic coffee and the 82" 613 is red w/ grey pannels. I have put them on craigslist here in philly and have found the experience a bit.... "frustrating". While I am no expert and not looking to get rich I have had a number of people call and try to "work" the price before they see the bike or set a time and not show!!! Before I send them to the large auction site, I thought I would post hear as I would rather someone who has a genuine interest in old Treks has a chance before the rest of the world. Also I have gotten a lot of helpful advice from a number of very nice people on the forums, so if I am not breaking any forum protocols ( I hope not!) anyone has interest maybe we can work a trade or something. Contact me if you have any interest and I will try to send pics later.

Timely thread.

I just ran accross a Trek 720. The bike looks like new, nary a scratch on it.
The frame is my size but its been altered with high stem and comfort bike bars.

I have spare road bars, brakes, etc., so converting it back to a tourer is no worry. Does $120 sound like a fair price(just trying to think what to tell the mrs. Damn, I'm hopeless).

I've replaced a few items myself with NOS parts I found on EBAY. Would like to know if I can re-pack the pedals? One seems to be ok, but one definitely needs grease. I found a NOS pair for $20 and was thinking about buying them. Any advice would be great.


If you've ever worked on a hub you'll have no trouble with pedals.

1.)You need to unscrew the endcap. Some have flats for a wrench, some take an allen wrench.

2.) After the endcap is removed you will need to loosen the locking nut.

3.) Hold the pedal over a shoebox to catch any falling bearings THEN Remove the adjustable cone. Even if you don't have a socket to fit, these cones can usually be spun out with a nudge from a srewdriver or other tool.

4.) The spindle will now be free. Clean off old grease. Pack new grease into bearing races on each end of pedal. count bearings and place half into each end of pedal -- the grease works like a glue to hold them in place.

5.) Gently insert spindle while making sure no bearings drop out. If they do just pop'em back in. Spin the lcone on, and follow with the locking nut. You'll just have to fiddle with the adjustment till you get no play and the pedal still works smoothly.

6.) Put the endcap back on. Spin the pedal onto the crank. Ride off into the sunset.

Timely thread.

I just ran accross a Trek 720. The bike looks like new, nary a scratch on it.
The frame is my size but its been altered with high stem and comfort bike bars.

I have spare road bars, brakes, etc., so converting it back to a tourer is no worry. Does $120 sound like a fair price(just trying to think what to tell the mrs. Damn, I'm hopeless).

Sounds like a very good deal to me, if the bike is as clean as you say.

Offer him $100....... :D

Here is a 1982 950, columbus tubing and a great ride. It will have modern 10sp campy adorning it shortly-

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/802038/

try again

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/802038/
[img]http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/802038/[\img]

Here you go Nick....:)

http://photo.pinkbike.com/photo/802/pbpic802038.jpg