Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - well my lockring just came out.

it wasn't me slipping on pebbles. my lockring pretty much shat itself and popped off this morning. it took some threading with it, too.

this means i need a new hub doesn't it. god damnit.

i'm at school now and i still haven't gotten a chance to order myself a brake. so i'm brakeless and i can only pedal forward. too much backpedaling will kill me again. i've been jamming my foot in the tires to slow down, and it's harder than on a bmx.


fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck

**** dude, that sucks. ive actually heard of somebody getting their stripped hub re-threaded, so before throwing down for a whole new hub, i'd investigate that avenue, you might be able to save some bucks

there's an LBS around here but i have homework i need to get done! i dont have time!

how much does re-threading cost? any estimate?
like.. when my lockring came out you could see the threading that came off. it looked like a real thin black ring. i knew it **** the bed.

and if i can't get it rethreaded, what are some good hubs? i know about phil wood but are there any cheap hubs that are still relatively good?

formula, you can probably find a back for like, 50 or less. What hub was it that you stripped?

i believe it's a joytech, the ones that come on masi speciale fixeds.

so formula is good? i ride brakeless and my life is depending on this.

how about surly hubs? are they any good?

the phil wood hub i'm looking at is $154. that's like my limit.

mich are about 60...u can probably find a dimension for around 40 if u know where to look

If you get it re threaded, you're going to have to get a lock ring made that fits those threads. Also you're going to have to disassemble the wheel, then have it lathed, and then rebuilt. If you get a new hub you'll have to get new spokes probably unless it's exact same. I just did this to my PW hub, so I feel your pain.

okay which out of this list make good track hubs?


Campagnolo (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=60&type=T)
Chris King (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=73&type=T)
Dimension (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=108&type=T)
DMR (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=563&type=T)
DT Swiss (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=113&type=T)
Formula Hubs (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=697&type=T)
Hope (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=180&type=T)
Paul Components (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=292&type=T)
Phil Wood (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=300&type=T)
PowerTap (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=533&type=T)
Primopro (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=list&Category=474&Brand=555&type=T)
Profile Racing (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=314&type=T)
Shimano (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=367&type=T)
SRAM (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=list&Category=474&Brand=388&type=T)
Sun Ringle (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=list&Category=474&Brand=398&type=T)
Surly (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=405&type=T)
WTB (http://sunandskibikes.com/page.cfm?PageID=458&action=model&Category=474&Brand=474&type=T)i already looked at formula and they dont carry the track ones.

i say this because i could get a good price on these since i work for them.

A lot of people like the campy's and the phils. though for cheap surly hubs (I believe) are rebranded formulas.

I have been riding with out a lockring, but I do have a font brake. Just take it easy, I haven't loosened the cog yet, and I even initiated some skids.

I'm on the hunt for a new hub too, been for a long while now.

CHUB HUB :eek:

i managed to hand-screw it back on (which means it's not totally shot). the lockring i mean. i tightened the cog by just applying torque to it through the pedals. of course hand-screwing it on doesn't mean anything and i'll still take it easy but is this hub still useable if i tighten it up all the way properly? with loctite? or is that not recommended?

The dimension track hubs are fine and inexpensive. I've got some that I've laced up, but not used yet, but I hear only good things about them. I've not heard many reports of them stripping easily so I'd just go with those and save yourself some cash.

if you're riding brakeless, i wouldnt trust anything less than a brand new hub and lockring.

i think if i get a new hub i'm going to give in and get some velocity deep v's....

is it easy to assemble a wheel? like lacing it and all that? if i can do that i'll just get the bike guys to true it for me

though for cheap surly hubs (I believe) are rebranded formulas.

No No No No NO NOO

Surly hub.

http://www.businesscycles.com/graphics/thub-surly_silver2.jpg

Formula hub

http://www.businesscycles.com/graphics/thub-formula4.jpg

Not the same.

Surlys are also more expensive than Formulas.

are they better? i found out my hub WAS a formula and, though good, i'd like an upgrade if i can

i think if i get a new hub i'm going to give in and get some velocity deep v's....

is it easy to assemble a wheel? like lacing it and all that? if i can do that i'll just get the bike guys to true it for me

Find an online instruction guide. Should be easy if you're not tensioning yourself. Mention it's your first when you take it in to be brought up to tension. They'll look it over free as they true/round it to make sure you didn't make any mistakes.


With deep v's you'll have trouble getting the nipple through the rim. Use a tooth pick or screw the top of the nipple onto a spare spoke.

I like them and would consider them a slight upgrade. Others may come along and say that they're pretty much the same quality, and they may be right too.

If I were you, I'd just get whichever, and make sure I properly put on a good cog and ring.

It's not ideal..... but try the Rotafix. The Hub is already shot, and it cant be any less safe than shoving your foot in the wheel. I had a similar lockring problem, and the bike I ride the rotafix'ed ring on has brakes, but it has never slipped on pretty aggressive skids.

as long as you are still riding the bike you might as well get the ring as tight as possible, it might buy you a little time so you can figure out what you want to upgrade to.

wow... rotafix makes the lockring unnecessary?!?
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

really? hmm but if i still put the lockring on, and some loctite, it wont go nowhere will it?
the hub isnt totally stripped, just partially.

I tried rotafixing, maybe it wasn't tight enough, but I was able to loosen the cog at will (while riding).

yikes

Is your fork drilled or does it have braze-ons for canti type brakes? Installing a brake isn't impossible.

I found a 4eu POS canti brake set (front and rear) at the hardware store, and with salmon pads they provide tons of stopping power, in good weather. Ha, I just thought, for the price of the kool stop pads I could have got 3 sets (6 brakes and 12 pads, everything sept the lever and cable).

my bike came with brakes lol i just haven't found a cross lever i could use yet. i put flip chops on it and dont like the drop brakes.

My experience is that you can get the ring VERY TIGHT with the Rotafix. Generally I think people are too conservative, because of the fear of damaging the hub.... But when your Hub is **** what do you have to loose. I did it as a last ditch effort to salvage a wheel for a bike I built up on old parts I had around, and it is VERY EFFECTIVE!


EDIT: try these....
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=600069&subcategory=60001014&brand=&sku=8047&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%20Road%20Brakes

not a huge fan of the bar-end levers. didnt want em there for when i fall and my bars swing and punch the ground, those tips are the first to hit concrete. i've already got scrapes and chips on my pretty plastic chrome looking masi barends. thanks though. i really want to get a cross lever.

I would Tighten! that Cog down with the Rota-fix, Then throw some loctite the the lockring on. And nashbar has cross top levers on the cheap.

And nashbar has cross top levers on the cheap.

Aebike.com has them for a lot less.

I had the same problem and made a post about it earlier this week. I rotafixed my cog on without loctite and it was working fine today until I was my way home from school. My cog came all the off, but luckily I was on a flat part between two hills. The hub isn't stripped so I'm debating whether to use some extra strong loctite and rotafix it again or to take it in to the LBS and have them make sure everything is solid including the lockring. I'm riding brakeless so I really don't feel like completely f**king myself up if it happens again.

wait- so it came all the way off? so you were riding without the lockring?

Yep, riding without the lockring. I was told that it would be ok because the rotafix should have been strong enough to hold the cog on. Obviously not though. Probably not too smart on my part.

jb weld will hold that lockring on there for you. i stripped out my threading on an old tandem track wheel i was using about a year ago and jb welded it back on. it held until the rim exploded.

same thing happened to me on a 2 mo. old phil hub. lockring popped and removed 2 threads in the process :(
good news is, 'twas fixed/fixed :)

So what are you guys doing to make the lockrings pop out like that?

So what are you guys doing to make the lockrings pop out like that?

re-enacting my favorite clips from the MASH SF dvd with that "advantage out" song stuck in my head

So what are you guys doing to make the lockrings pop out like that?


im pretty sure in my case, the initial cog slippage was a direct result of my weight (220ish no flab, mostly height) and a modest lockring mount to begin with. took it to the closest LBS the day it started slipping bad and the baboons there did a piss poor job of so-called tightening the cog/lock. as soon as i hopped back on to test the back pressure *pop!*. flipped my wheel, tossed my bike in my car and took it to my original LBS who gave it the locktite, gorilla torque tightening treatment, and ive been solid ever since.

im pretty sure in my case, the initial cog slippage was a direct result of my weight (220ish no flab, mostly height) and a modest lockring mount to begin with. took it to the closest LBS the day it started slipping bad and the baboons there did a piss poor job of so-called tightening the cog/lock. as soon as i hopped back on to test the back pressure *pop!*. flipped my wheel, tossed my bike in my car and took it to my original LBS who gave it the locktite, gorilla torque tightening treatment, and ive been solid ever since.

I'm about 210. I ride brakeless in an area with some consistent, decent sized hills so I'm always putting lots of pressure on the cog.

im pretty sure in my case, the initial cog slippage was a direct result of my weight (220ish no flab, mostly height) and a modest lockring mount to begin with. took it to the closest LBS the day it started slipping bad and the baboons there did a piss poor job of so-called tightening the cog/lock. as soon as i hopped back on to test the back pressure *pop!*. flipped my wheel, tossed my bike in my car and took it to my original LBS who gave it the locktite, gorilla torque tightening treatment, and ive been solid ever since.

Not Likely... I have ridden brakeless well over 200lbs and if your gear is correct, it wont slip. The opposite threading insures that, and if the ring is even moderately tight, it will work.

It was my experience (when I blew out my hub) that incorrect cog size is the main culprit. If the cog is just a hair thin, the lock ring doesn't sit tight and allows the cog to spin slightly, and the lock ring to loosen. I experienced this on a built up bianchi pista that I bought off the floor of a lbs. after weeks of complaining about a little slippage upon starting after a skid stop a different lbs pointed out that the cog was a cheap non-stock job the other shop had put on to save a few nickels (or they are oblivious). It was slightly to thin for the hub. He recommended a 0.5mm shim. It would have worked, but I stripped the lock ring upon removal.

Since then it has been Rotafixed. I have been waiting for it to fail but it hasn't.

Yep, riding without the lockring. I was told that it would be ok because the rota-fix should have been strong enough to hold the cog on. Obviously not though. Probably not too smart on my part.

rota fix makes sure the cog is slammed against the hub, you then use a lockring tool to tighten the lockring to the hub, thus preventing it from slipping loose/away from the hub. repeat once or twice more and its done.

you cant JUST rota-fix cause there's still that space for the cog to loosen until it hits the lockring.

i have zero locktite, so i usually check my cog/lockring every month just incase.

for those people that have not had rotafixing work I can only assume that you didnt tighten it down enough. When you rotafix the cog on you are essentially ruining the hub and mashing the thread contacts together so that it can no longer spin in reverse.

for those people that have not had rotafixing work I can only assume that you didnt tighten it down enough. When you rotafix the cog on you are essentially ruining the hub and mashing the thread contacts together so that it can no longer spin in reverse.

um.. no?


its like using a chain whip, without the chain whip. if you're gonna go hulk on it, yeah you're gonna ruin your hub, but thats not what rotafixing is for. deliberate damage to your hubs? i think not.

um.. no?


its like using a chain whip, without the chain whip. if you're gonna go hulk on it, yeah you're gonna ruin your hub, but thats not what rotafixing is for. deliberate damage to your hubs? i think not.

Exactly. The danger with rotafixing is that it's possible to damage your wheel since you're essentially using your wheel's radius as a lever as opposed to a chainwhip arm. In my experience, you can pretty definitely hear the point at which you shouldn't torque it any further.

Also, I forget which post above mine this pertains to, but if you're worried about stripping your hub, rotafix/whip/whatever your cog on, then after mashing up a massive hill (without applying back pressure), tighten your lockring again.